I can summarize the highlights of the project.

Acquiring the car.

Installing stiff and lower springs.

Installing good seats and steering wheel.

Installing a modern wheel and tire package vs the late 70's coolio package.

Installing the close ratio T56 Mag

Installing good front brakes and manual master cylinder.

Upgrading the heads, intake, and carb.

Installing 3:73 rear end ratio.

Without a doubt the best part of the entire project is the constant memory of my now deceased best friend and the vast number of relationships and friendships created along the way........without a doubt! This is reflected in the majority of BS, trash talking, undercutting, and insulting posts that compromise 80+% of the 1839 posts. :)

Selling this car would be like selling a major portion of my soul. How do you calculate a price? :thumbsup:

Why? I drive it like an 80 year old. :sieg:

If I was going to track it more than once or twice a year at best.....I'd toss a Ford 9" in it........better yet I'd just buy a sorted track car and beat the crap out it! :lol:

And I almost beeeeeelieve you

:snapout:

Intentionally slow paced day today cleaning axle tube ends, mocking up backing plates and hub to axle fitment, and a little head scratching regarding the best brake line routing.

Also had to flip a caliper bracket on the backing plate because they were set up for non-staggered shock car. Thankfully all that required was pressing out the splined threaded inserts in the bracket, reversing, reinstalling, and cutting a new spacer for the e-brake cable bracket.

I also picked up some 5/32" copper ground wire to use mocking up line routing and lengths thanks to a tip I read here. :thumbsup:

The rotors index on the 1/2" wheel studs, if you're running smaller studs Wilwood has indexing rings available to locate the rotors on the axles.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-W...WVkPRDQ-XL.jpg

A few mock up shots of the new micro drums. :)
Right side
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-T...-TkNCL5G-L.jpg

Left side
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-R...-RXpcwSm-L.jpg

Looking Good Seig! I like your 1 project at a time approach. Other than when building a car from Scratch, this has to be the best way to go. You get to continue driving and having fun while making it better and better! This is a great blueprint! Keep up the good work.

You forgot to mention the car nearly burning to the ground in the highlights reel.

Glad you're still making progress with the car, Sieg.

Brake line clamp
 

If you don't want to weld you can use this band clamp. I got mine from CCP.

The Siegmiester is a masterba.... I mean master welder!!

That's a lowlight ya wingnut!

Along with the time I exceeded the limits of the stock brakes coming up to a T intersection off a freeway ramp shortly after I installed the T56, two awesome corners that I've been through hundreds of times leading up to the T........then I realized how much more speed I carried of the last apex..........120 yds to the T........cars lined everywhere in the intersection except in the right turn lane and the light had just change green........I had an angel on my shoulder during this event......the fronts weren't locking nor stopping thanks to the new 200TW tires and I was modulating the rears in and out of lock up and scrubbed just enough speed to pitch it into the 90* turn and throttle out without hitting any of the row of cars to my left.......it was literally inches from clipping someone with the rear quarter. :wacko:

My other option was going square into a K wall at 30+ mph.

I went straight home and called Tobin at Kore3 discussed the situation and ordered front brakes.

Dang......
Where's the GoPro when you need it:lol:

I thought about a clamp but it's too easy to fab a bracket and plug weld it on the tube.

Knuckle Dragger! :warning:


I'm also toying with the idea of eliminating the lines on the rear axle altogether and running hard line out to the inner frame rails and dropping flex lines down to the calipers.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-K...-KKd9fv4-M.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-z...-zfMfkQn-M.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-d...-dmKvxtm-M.jpg

The tube mounted brackets would be too easy though..........:headscratch:

Sieg, I ran my rear line back to my crossmember, T'd it on the crossmember, and ran individual hard lines out to each side of my frame, before going to braided flex lines to each caliper. I have too much going on bracket wise, on my axle tubes to worry about running lines, plus to me, it looks much cleaner keeping the lines off the axle. It's also easier to pull the rear end out of your car, with no brake lines strapped to it. Just my 2 pesos...

If it was mine -- I'd just run hard lines from the T all the way on the axle tube to the caliper --- with a SINGLE braided line from the body to the T on the axle....


If I was YOU ---- I'd haul it down to Mark at Bent... :D :popcorn2: :whenitsdone: :poke: :G-Dub:

I'd hate to obligate Mark to put lipstick on a pig. :sieg:

One option is to tweak the existing lines on the tubes towards the offset calipers and tack the brackets on and call it good. Wilwood recommends a 14" line kit for it but that length appears to be excessively generous, 8"-10" is what I'm guessing. The keys are to stay away from exhaust pipes, tires, and bump stops or other pinch points with the floating lines.

I like the idea of running hard lines all the way, with the fixed calipers it's not an issue, and it's 2 less connections. I may have enough line left in stock but with my luck I'll be 3" short and have to buy another 25' roll. :D

Do you know a source for the coiled line sheathing? The OEM will probably be a couple inches short of ideal.

Regarding using a braided drop line, I'm wondering if the expansion in OEM rubber line might actually be desirable with respect to feel/modulation in my manual system. (I think Tobin and I discussed it at one point) My initial thought was to leave the OEM line and see how it felt and performed when I test and set the bias adjustment. Then replace it if needed.

Thanks for the input Scott. Worthy points of consideration. :thumbsup:

It would have been a great sales tool for anyone selling brake upgrades!

As is no video except to this day I can still close my eyes and replay the event in HD. :D

Depends on how old that stock rubber line is --- and remember that the disc brakes need more pressure to operate properly.

I'd just run that axle line in 3/16" brake line that you can buy right down at the auto parts store... they sell it in various lengths. It's not SS - but WTF -- you're not building a Ridler car like Mario. It's easier to bend --- and should come with 45* and ends that might go straight into the T and the other end into the caliper. That or whack the caliper end and put a 37* single on it to a -3.... don't forget to put the tube nut on etc BEFORE you flair... Been there and done that DOH!!

Thats what your master if for and not your hose. If you are feeling it due to the hose Im gonna put a pea between your matress and keep you from sleeping at night. You can run hard all the way to the caliper. But put in a slack bend in it.

The rubber line has been replaced.

I still have enough nickel/copper line left from doing the front system.......Awesome material to work with and it has a nice patina to it. Even had straight ends for the calipers and 37* flares in stock!

Just need to find new protective sheathing.

Will running hard lines all the way to the calipers prevent them from being removed for maintenance (pads/rotors change)? Or there's enough flex in the lines to move the calipers away?

And here I thought I was the only one to do that... :underchair:

My hard lines on my axle tube are beat to hell after 5 years of exhaust hitting them, tie down straps, and just general abuse...plus I've never replaced the soft line from the chassis to the axle.

I like the solid line to the frame rails and soft lines down to the caliper option, I'm going to look to see if that is possible for me when I redo my back lines. IF it's possible routing wise, sure seems like a better option than running them along the axle tubes.

Sieg, Right Stuff Detailing has the brake line armor or spring wrap you're looking for.

Tu, it does make it more of a pain for servicing to have hard line going to the individual calipers, but if you design it with a bend in the line and maybe an easily removable hold down near the caliper, it's not so bad. C2/3 Corvettes were this way stock.

You definitely want soft line from the end of the axle to the caliper. That is, unless you like to bleed brakes every time you pull a caliper.

Caliper and drop flex lines, rock guard sheath on order.........

and.........

GW Del-a-lum upper and lower control arm bushing and offset control arm shafts.

Quick Fuel 5.5 and 6.0 power valves and set of Buna rubber float/metering block gaskets.

Damn, even Pro Tinkering is getting expensive! :D

"Project creep"... or also known as "WhileImatititis"

Next thing you know you'll be pulling the engine to detail the front suspension in a project that started as a simple electric fan install... ;)

It's not a f'n pseudo Black race car.... how often do you think he's going to drop the caliper to change pads? He lives in the PacificNorthWET -- SOB car doesn't get 1500 miles a year....

I learned to like things serviceable with my wannabe race car. I also learned to do it right the first time. :mock:

Whoah big boy...........I put over 3K on it last year and that doesn't count the 800 in your trailer. :mock:

Oh it gets worse Lance........I have a spare subframe sitting in the garage. :unibrow:

Thanks for making my point --- that's 10 years worth of driving before needing to replace the pads. And you're not tracking it (yet).... so it's just street driving. I just don't see the need to make it that serviceable any more than a stock application. BTW - you should bleed the brakes on a car like this about once a year since the fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture - even more so where you live....

There! I got the last word! LOL

I looked at it today and with the factory tab clamps on the tubes you can open them up a free-up the lines enough to lift the calipers.........it's just not as convenient or forgiving as pulling the caliper and hanging it wherever with a wire hook or bungee.

Maybe I should just get a Prius.........but only when they come out with a minivan model.

Regarding brake fluid........you're talking to an old dirt bike rider Pappy......3 times a year on those, maybe more on the rear if you're a brake dragger. :action-smiley-027:

I post for the greater good of the community --- some folks know and do these things -- many don't...

You and Vince been talking??

That nutjob wants a Volt! :D

git ya some of that!!!

had to build one to match my style.....

http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/a...lats-bvolt.jpg

Now were talking! What's the MPG, Vince?

Lance, it might even keep a little bit of unwanted radiant heat from the rear end, out of the brake fluid.

I have some of those rivets they used on that front salt sweeper left over from when I installed the gunnel guard on my river boat............let me know if you need them. :)

Could be a toss up. Heat rises so with the line mounted high in the axle well out of airflow vs on the axle inside the rock guard in the airflow the heat from the exhaust may affect the upper line more than the heat off the rear end housing. Just guessing.......and no, I'm not going to to perform the experiment. :D