Thanks, I don't know why I didn't think of something that simple.

I ordered a set of Hypercoils from Ridetech last week and they came in on Tuesday. As usual, I couldn't wait to get dirty so I went out and got them installed. Hypercoil reccomended a 10" spring instead of the 12" that Alston spec'd originally. He said it would decrease the preload on the spring to achieve ride height along with being close to coil bind at max shock compression. Hopefully I'll have enough adjustment on the ground. Pretty simple job swapping springs on the coil overs. I set the front springs even and about 1/8 extra preload in the LR vs the RR as that's how it was after my corner weighting. I'll set the ride height close and make sure these are the right springs before I corner weight again.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...1969/011-3.jpg
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I gave the newly designed shock plates the krylon touch and decided to redesign the tow hooks out back. The last set was a last minute deal for my first road race with redline time attack. I never cared for it so another do over. :lol: I ended up buying a set for a BMW with hopes of adapting them. I was hoping for M12 threads and I lucked out since nobody had a clue where I bought them. They have allens on both ends so I could tighten them in place and then a small set screw for backup. The main reason I like two is for tie downs in the trailer. They clear the wheel and shock by enough. I made sure the tow hook will clear the wheel if it decides to swing down. Turned out pretty nice. I've now got my much needed 1/2 of shock travel. Up next is testing.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...1969/013-1.jpg
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Before I drop the car on all fours, I am making two other tweaks. Mounting everything solid on these cars sounds great until you drive one. Solid body mounts, solid shock mounts, solid engine mounts, solid steering knuckles, heim joints,etc. Both of my engines have suffered a harmonic vibration between 2700-2900. I can mainly feel it through the steering wheel rowing through the gears putting around town and through the car and steering wheel at say 85-90mph when I hit the rpm range in 5th. So, I'm putting a new steering knuckle in that will cut down on harmonics in the steering wheel. I'm also going to swap the passenger engine mount for a stock interlocking rubber mount. I run 302 Z28 mounts to center the drivetrain. Supposedly it cuts down on vibrations considerably. You know I won't sugar coat it. If I can just get AJ to bring back my picker I'm set. :unibrow:
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...ck1969/032.jpg

Even after a gazillion thread pages and 150,000 views, I'm still working towards perfection. While I don't think perfection is possible, every tweak I make improves the car. The list is getting really short and the light is pretty bright. No, I'm not ready to start over. :D

No worries Todd. After RTTC and an Elvis experience, you'll be back in the garage with more ideas.

The trans is the next major change. I'm trying to be patient. I heard noise of a TKO 600 Magnum. Who knows when and if.... I almost pulled the trigger on a Liberty modded Tko 600 but he wouldn't give me free shipping.:D

Good stuff Todd, curious to see how you like those Hypercoils.

As you know I've already started the next project and the I have been going back and 4th on body mounts. I already know that i am going poly on the engine and Ride Tech's suspension. My concern has been the solid mounts for a daily driver.

My question is would you still do the solid mounts on the body ?

Awesome stuff Todd. I hope those Hypercoils work out for you.
Good luck.:thumbsup:

Lookin' very nice. I dig the tow hook......looks custom and clean.

Once you weld the subframe connectors to the body, you really have no choice. (DSE) That being said, I'd take a completely different approach to a daily driver than I have with a cross breed.

Todd, what are the primary things that you'd change? I just picked up a project I want to be able to drive almost daily so I'm all ears for advice too. I know your engine shakes the earth and could probably open up fault lines, which depending on your likes might not make it ideal, but what else would you not put on a driver, solid mounts, a 4pt cage, etc?

Other than the engine combo our cars are fairly similar and I think the only thing that would keep me from driving it everyday (aside from worrying about leaving it in parking lots) would be the noise. I feel like I've stepped off an eight our flight after driving it for a couple hours.

Matt

Todd whats your rear tire size?

yeah yeah yeah just keep it on the stands a few more day... i'll be there sunday evening.haha

marty i really dont think solid body mounts affect ride quality at all they just prevent flex between the frame and body.
just think of all the unibody cars they have no sort of bushing as thier are "one with the car" lol just make the sure the suspension is doing its job correctly
i think for a DD poly trans and motor mounts would still give enough to not transmit the vibrations to much but still give you the strength need for a high TQ car.

Good, I'll put your ass to work.:lol: Keep in mind that modern cars are designed for no body mounts. They have rubber mounted everything and engineering to cut down on frequency and vibrations.

Mario, they are 335's.

For a daily driver:

As many GM parts as possible.
Less rowdy engine 400-500hp/fuel injection
Fairly quiet exhaust
Well engineered fuel tank with reliable fuel sender down to empty
Rubber mounted everywhere possible
NO roll bar so the back seat is usable
Power brakes
Automatic(GM 6 speed)
Softer spring rates(just like I HAD)
Dynamat everywhere/Heat wave pro(Doors,Roof, Firewall, Floor, Trunk)
Electric Windows/Locks
PCV system
Xenon lights
Collapsable steering column
Modern 3 point belts
Navigation
Light paint color(Decent driver paint)
Easy to maintain finishes(Chrome wheels or powdercoated)
Floating rear caliper
LED tail lights
Side marker lights
Keep everything servicable(No hiding wiper motors in fenders, ecms under the front seat, etc...)


With all that being said, you will never achieve the level a modern car can achieve in function, noise, and reliability. There is a reason modern cars don't have metal dashes, fenders, flat windshields, wall for a front end.... I would NEVER attemp to please myself on a daily driver basis. It's hard enough to do on a weekend warrior. I've been spoiled with my daily drivers over the last decade. It all comes down to what your ideal daily driver is... Mine is dropping it off at the dealership for anthing but a car wash.

They are never done, i.e. the future LS, JK, kinda like Janet Reno in a makeup shop.

Is there a better way to spend a day off than to hail mary the car on some lonely desert roads? :D It's cold(40ish) and very windy. Heater works great so it made for a nice ride.

I got the new engine mount and steering shaft knuckle installed along with shimming the rear axle bearings to tighten them up. I have the ride height roughly dialed in and will wait until the springs settle to finalize. That will likely also include corner weighting the car.

The car feels great The spring changes made it feel more like a sports car should. Firmer but still with a nice ride. I put almost 100 miles on the car today on some lonely desert roads. That afforded me the chance to do some high speed slalom, 0-100, 0-60, slow speed sharp corners. Car is a rocket! To my surprise I met a state trooper way off the beaten path. At nearly twice the posted speed limit he just sounded his siren and kept going. :D Good thing, I was just at the court house last week! The engine mount and steering knuckle definitely took some of the harmonics out of the car. I can't wait to get it back on the track. :thumbsup:

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...30-10_1320.jpg

Sounds like you got it all tuned out. Good deal. Watch out for those State Troopers.:_paranoid
One of my favorite cars on this forum for sure.:yes:

Ride height looks perfect Todd. I always questioned if those 'vibration reducing' knuckles really worked? Thanks for confirming....

Dang I'm envious, wish I was on the road to do the drive you did. Height looks great :thumbsup:

Sounds like a fun & rewarding day of flogging Todd. That trooper must be a "car guy." :unibrow:

Awesome Todd. Love the car.

Todd, car is looking great and sound's like you are getting it dailed in to be the perfect PT-camaro.:thumbsup:

69
 

Hey Todd, that black fuel hose that you are running, is it teflon lined?
Man I appreciate you posting all of the improvments that work on your car, (and all of the stuff that didn't work) it helps some of us in the building stage cut through the chase and save some money on our builds. You always take the time and throw in the detail that people need.

Appreciate it guys...:cheers: Getting out and getting her dirty is still by far the best aspect of building these things for me. I even ran into a hint of snow. My ass would've been puckered driving it down these roads 2 years ago. Now I just have a great time. :thumbsup:

I'm not one for secrets. I'm a firm believer in what comes around, goes around. I've made plenty of mistakes plowing the road to where I am today. Many by misguided information out there and upgrading vendors products to work in my world. The harder you push your car, the more miticulous things need to be. A weekend cruise vs. balls to the wall on the track are night and day. Building from scratch has been a larger challenge than I anticipated.

Most of the hose and fittings are Jegs brand. I did use hard 1/2 aluminum line from wheel well to wheel well. I would use teflon lined to be safe. I don't get the fuel smell in the garage and the hoses ae still pliable last time I checked. (Fuel is your main concern) Once again, that info wasn't out there when I started down this road. I'll be keeping a close eye. If I do encounter problems, it will go teflon.

Lookin good!! Thde tie down hooks look like a great idea.:thumbsup:

Todd the tiedowns look great. Thats good info on the solid mounts. I'm thinking of using solid body and engine mounts. I want the car to handle but I want it to be decent to drive around town.

Very nice work as usual Todd. I like the new hooks, and the info on the solid mounts is also appreciated.

I'm thinking 2011 is going to be a good year for you and Payback!:cheers:

After the Optima Challenge and reviewing the video I realized how bad I needed a harness. My seats fit me well but I needed to reposition myself mide corner. There is enough to think about with 650 hp under the hood. I called up Ridetech and Rodney and I came up with a plan to get a harness bar in my car. We decided to have him send me the clamps and I could position them and take an eye to eye measurement. Rodney will then weld me up a harness bar and I'll likely paint the center section and leave the ends stainless. I haven't decided if I'll remove the 3 point belts at this point. Or simply use the same anchors and use the race belts only at events. Anyway, after doing some reading I've seen many different maximum belt angles and came across this article and it really makes sense.
http://www.circletrack.com/safety/ct...uidelines.html
The angle of the shoulder harness should be 90 degrees in comparison to your spine angle. I found what I feel is a comfortable driving position. I just need to verify it's approx. 90 degrees. Anybody disagree??
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around there, but generally from where it goes thru the seat to the cross bar should be no more then 20 degree angle, but you want at least 10 degrees down angle on the harness's.

I was expecting a told you so from you Jake. :unibrow: It should be right in the sweet spot where it's mounted now. What belts do you reccomend? Should I bolt them on or wrap?

I would bolt them in. I've also got pretty much the exact same setup that you have. Strangely enough, I ended up with a DSE cage with Tiger Cage cross bar mounts. It looks like you've got it all figured out, but if you need pictures, let me know.

Oh, and it's just my personal preference, but I would run a 3pt belt on the street. I always end up driving with only the lap belts for the 4pts connected because you can't move around if enough if you're just out cruising.

Matt

That is exactly why I put 3 points in the car originally. I'm definitely leaning towards bolting in the shoulder belts(For quick removal between events) and using the same anchor points for the lap belts and just laying them in the rear floor board. I would like to see a picture of your set up. Thanks Matt..:thumbsup:

yep very true... i had a harness bar in my 4th gen for a year and a half and the majority of the time i would just wear the lap belt...(not to safe) you gotta strain your self just to reach the radio controls lol.

yeah todd I've always planed to do just that (run 3 points on a regular basis and just leave the laps on the ground when not in use) if i ever get the camaro running again! you better measure that right!!! haha

I'm with Matt. I hate harnesses on the street. Having an inertia reel three-point shoulder belt is a lot more practical.

I leave the floor-pan bolted harnesses in the car when it's not on the track. The side belts tuck in well between the seat and the side of the floorpan, and the sub goes under the seat.

Really smart idea Todd. Well done.

check out this link

http://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/2...structions.pdf

my plan is to run a removable harness bar without a cage for a set of the schroth harnesses and run 3 points off the harness bar attachment points when the bar isnt there. i really dont like how the bolt in 3 points hang so much "stuff" from the roof that just dangles there so i want them much lower and a little more hidden.

read over schroths site and check out the crash test videos. there is a lot of info on 2" vs 3", belt angles, anchor loads and requirements etc.......

here is a site that has given me a couple ideas for the 3 pts. some of their installs seem to put the shoulder straps a little low, but mock up on my chevelle shows i will be right at the 20*.

http://www.quickfitsbs.com/gallery.asp

I've already got 3 points. I decided to go the route I did originally due to the fact I didn't like the belts hanging from the ceiling as well. I'm going to order a set of simpson belts and call it a day.

schroth profi series. its the best. not cheap, but no harness's are. do at least a 5 point. might as well keep the 3 pt if you are not going to do a 5 or 6 with the sub belt.

Except the Sparco seats cant be adapted to fit the 5th or 6th ball hugger belt/s?

This "might" be interesting?
http://www.schrothracing.com/store/T...on/black-magic

a track car deserves a track seat, i have seen many a sparco with a sub belt hole.

This ain't no track car, it's an occassional track car that's driven at less than 100%. Big difference IMO. I'd love to have RACE CAR but I can't fathom another penny in cars at this point. :unibrow:

I raced it with 3 points so I'm not overly concerned with my well being I guess. My main focus was to keep from moving around so much. I'll see if I can make a 5 point work.