When I did something like this, it was a guarantee that the axle seal or bearing would go out. :D Brake bleed every year, bologna. Admit you are wrong for the first time in your life. ha

WORD!

:popcorn2:

When you have a lift --- and a compressor --- and an air driven bleeder.... this is a one man process that takes all of about 20 minutes. It takes that long because I have to set up the ladder to go up and fill the master when the car is on the lift... Did I mention that I've been retired for 23 years which means I have nothing to do all day.... and my **** is all super sanitary underneath?? That means you clean and wipe and prep constantly... service is just a small part of that. I also never use an open can of fluid.... buy fluid in small containers and toss it after it's been opened.


You GIRLS need to raise your game.

those are custom titanium ARP quarter turn fasteners.
:action-smiley-027:

I scrolled through all 188 pages today. Build is very interesting, but one loose end is bothering me - besides you not painting your power steering pump, lol.
I had the same problem with stock power steering pump brackets, so I installed a power steering pump with a remote reservoir setup on a 73 Camaro I had. It helped with the stability of the pump, and appearance.
These are the only pics I can find, but I'm sure you've seen the same setup in better cars.
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/DSCN0920.jpg
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/DSCN0957.jpg

You are right, I was wrong.

Just to introduce you to the concept. :D

One day I hope you're lucky enough to grasp the concept of owning multiple cars over multiple years - now stretching into decades -- a large well equipped workspace... and too much time on your hands. That last part being the most important aspect. :D

I'll take the luck and team it with discipline, flexibility, and faith. Only three cars huh?

On a Volt.........What a total waste of coin. :mock:

You mean you waded through 178 pages of BS! :D

It's a nostalgic patina pump that hasn't let me down............yet. :knokwood:
When it does it will definitely be upgraded!

:thumbsup:

Yes, I did.:popcorn2:

Custom Works has the brackets to mount a Type 2 pump on the motor in a similar manner. Scroll to the bottom http://customworksperformance.net/suspension.html

Just throwing it out there in case anyone is interested.

That's just the bracket I used. HINT: I found mine at a circle track swap meet cheep.:poke:

This really is a great thread Sieg! There is a lot of good info in here. You keep referring to your car as a budget car which is fine but it really is a killer build. It looks like you are having some fun with it minus the frustrating moments, those just make it worth it in the end
(I think maybe:EmoteClueless: ).
In some of the photos I couldn't help but stop and stare at the picture and think "MAN THAT LOOKS NICE!"

Question: where does a guy get himself some braided wire loom like this?

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-v...-vRWDxxg-L.jpg





Oh! and good thing I didn't un subscribe before page 60 something because then I wouldn't have been able to make this re surface!:mock:

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-S.../i-S33jM8F.jpg

Thank you :thumbsup:

Summit has the braided cover in smaller quantities, here's a link to one of a few diameters:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890340/overview/

Here's a source for bulk: http://www.wiringproducts.com/expandable-wire-sleeving


Aren't girls great! :D

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-W...-WsrfVmW-L.jpg

I've been looking around at wire loom myself lately. I found this source to have anything I would want to make my looming look professional. They have braided and NOMEX.
http://www.electriduct.com/
http://www.electriduct.com/Nomex-Braided-Sleeving.html

:thumbsup: Thanks!

Wow they have a ton of different products.
Thnaks

Back to business......

Decided to stay with hard lines inside stainless 'gravel guard' on the rear end housing with a stainless flex lines to the housing and calipers.

Prepped the calipers for paint
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-C...CGdnWFJ-XL.jpg

Applied Krylon BBQ paint and about 20 minutes after painting used a razor blade to remove paint from the raised lettering.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-V...V2tpv3f-XL.jpg

Made these brackets out of 2x2 tubing then decided the base was overkill and cut it in half before plug welding to the tube.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-P...Pqn8zwC-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-D...Dq9Hkfv-XL.jpg

Mockups

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-G...GPq78gS-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Q...Qs4LNkg-XL.jpg

Hopefully today I'll slip the axles back in and index the backing plates and get them secured, fab the hardlines, mock fit it all again and align the calipers then disassemble and paint, and tomorrow reassemble and bleed the system.

Hopefully......assuming the rotor and caliper alignment doesn't create challenges. :)

good job, Scott!

It will pose a challenge, but you will get through it. LOL

And you will be back on the road again...

What pads are you running?

The offsets were off .394" or so which means I need to fab new spacers for the caliper brackets but that's no biggy.

I'm pretty sure the rears are Wilwood BP-20's and Tobin said those would be near ideal for balance with the Hawk HP+ pads up front. The Dynalite calipers have more clamping force than ideal for the C5 caliper up front so the pad should tame them.

Progress was slower than I'd hoped but still decent progress. Hard lines were built, drop line installed, axles in, offsets checked and need to be altered -0.394". Funeral out of town tomorrow so I'll get back on it Sunday.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-w...wGCdsXd-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-7...7m7mzws-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Q...QdVcZcn-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-g...gBXFz48-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-5...5B5smqS-XL.jpg

Please stop!!



LOL



Get it??

:confused59:

:sieg:

:twak:

It will have a firm pedal before it rolls. :thumbsup:

There's light at the end of the tunnel! 2 lb. residual valve installed, backing plates located and torqued, caliper brackets shimmed, line brackets painted, lines mounted, wheel clearances verified, Moser C-clip axles are in and the differential refilled. Basically all that's left is to measure e-brake cable lengths and order and bleed the system.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-W...-WfwVcwg-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-G...-Gm9DDmP-L.jpg

I opted to shim with grade 8 washers and one stainless vs the cutting down the aluminum Wilwood spacers.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-p...-pDspCG7-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-f...-fJ4d5mG-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-F...-F5pB22Z-L.jpg

While positioning the calipers I noticed one pad didn't want to compress back into the caliper with reasonable force...........so off the calipers came again and I pulled all the pistons and seals figuring if one's questionable the other probably are too.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Z...-Z54NfBB-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-C...-C4jnwj4-L.jpg http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Q...-QgPTk4b-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-t...-tvHmXW9-L.jpg http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-w...-w4S5Z9z-L.jpg

A little buffing with a red Scotchbrite pad and good as new.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-v...-v4Vq4WB-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-7...-76pjMKg-L.jpg

Seals were easy to pop out with a dental pick, wiped the bores and seals clean, used a Q-tip on the seal grooves, and wiped the seal and piston with a very lite coat of WD-40 before reinstalling. Pistons now move properly in their bores.

100% class!:thumbsup:

Great work Scotty!! Looking clean. :thumbsup:

I've stated before about guys should bleed their brakes on these cars completely once a year because brake fluid is "hygroscopic" meaning - it absorb moisture.... Obviously the moisture in the fluid did a nice job on the stainless pistons!! Thus proof of what I've said in the past.


Really nice job you're doing mister! I hope it's a noticeable improvement when you're all done!

Good as new!

Thanks Gents! :thumbsup:

Looking good Scotty

We are waiting...

Thanks Mate.........I'll be back to Hooning before too long! :thumbsup:

Me too! Waiting on Control Cables to contact me and confirm my e-brake cable order............and if GW would ease off on the power-texting with his maxi-iPad I might be able to get the brakes bled. :lol:

True!

Brake system is fully bled and pressure checked for leaks by holding hard pressure on the pedal for 15 seconds. I had a leak at the residual valve and one hard line to flex line junction quick re-torque was all it took.

I'm waiting on the e-brake cables from Control Cables and we'll be back in business. They contacted me this morning after receiving my info and said they should have the cables shipping by Tuesday at the latest. I have to thank Brent (Ricochet) for recommending them.

I found that there really wasn't what I felt was a clean and simple cable setup for the Wilwood e-brake setup that worked with the existing foot pedal and tensioning cable. Control Cable basically supply new cables from the e-brake to chassis mount very similar to the OEM cables made to your specs at what I felt was a very fair price.

Here's the drawing and picture of my cable routing mock up I submitted to them:

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-f...fWGCXgz-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-2...-2xqSgJf-L.jpg

:popcorn2: I haven't hooked up my parking brakes so this is going to be put on my to do list.

Doesn't matter if you hook them up or not - they don't work worth a damn. It might make you feel good to have them hooked up... but I've never gotten them to function well even as a parking brake let alone an E brake.

My "parking brake" will hold my car on a pretty good slope. I used the Lokar cable setup and had to build a bracket coming off of my trans cross member to put the forward half of the cables in the sweet spot. It has to be pretty stout as there is a lot of pressure on those cables when tight. The first one I built folded up like a cheap tent...

Nice work Sieg...

We shall see.......I knew they didn't have the best of reputations and bat-turns were not in my future. :(

Hopefully using the factory mounting points and Control Cables which replicate the factory cables the system will be relatively flex/stretch free and the only limitation will be the minescule Wilwood baby drums.

Thanks Lance.

......and another picture just because I thought it was pretty cool for a phone camera.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-m...m8XZNkN-X2.jpg