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Now to get back on topic, and maybe I'm getting ahead of myself here because we haven't sorted the rear axle thing out yet, but my next issue to address will be front springs. I never noticed too much until I put the bigger tires on, but the front has settled some more after driving during the past couple of months. It is really low now, maybe a third of an inch lower than when we "finished" it in December. It's getting so low it's going to look like Doug's car if things keep up. I think it rubs on the inner fenders a bit on hard cornering. Since we rolled the front wheel well lips I might try an 1/8" spacer. I might also consider getting slightly longer springs because the ones we've got now are pretty compressed. Ok, with that said, commence the conversation about Truetracs vs. Detroit Lockers. Oh, and I still want to hear from people running tapered bearings! Matt |
I was serious, I've been fighting this since day one. You would think a buddy ol pal would give a guy a call with inside info. I'm not sold on it being the true trac but I'm interested to know what DSE, Finch, Rupp, etc run since I've never heard any of them complain about knockback issues. If they have lockers or anyting else, I'm on board.
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REAL LOCKERS -- SUCK FOR THE STREET. But so does leaking seals and pad knockers... |
Just called DSE, they run True Trac's in both test cars. Hmmmmm
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I know.. I talked to them yesterday..
I have a Truetrac unit I will be diassembling to day.. |
I personally
do not like a locker for what I am doing. If I had a drag car that I ran on the street...then yes. I find a locker to be very loud when it is unlocked around an corner and almost sounds like it is breaking on low speed parking. Also when you get on the power coming out of a corner and it locks the car will waggle...which I find a little unsettling at speed. This is all personal preference as I know others it does not bother.
The true tracs have very smooth operation and do not have the clutch problems of the conventional posi units. I love the one that I am running. I think it was mentioned in another thread about the load being generated on the axles, especially with a high offset wheel (the ones with the big lips that look so cool) On a side note, I am running the big sealed bearings from Moser and mine have not leaked. Yes I do have knockback. As I stated earlier, I am going to a floater. |
DSE runs boosters on both cars I believe. Meaning they probably have no problem covering it up with power brakes. 1 1/8 master
Let's get back to Matt's problem. He doesn't neccesarily have a knockback problem. He has a leak. I still feel the fluid gets through the bearing itself or a portion. Sealed bearings aren't meant to be submerged in oil. They should in theory be able to withstand it but I'm not so sure. I'm interested to see what Cris has cooking. |
if your running sealed bearings then just buy some inner seals, that you install when the 3rd member is pulled.
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You can get
an oil seal they use on circle track cars that installs near the center section to keep the oil from roping down the axle or running down the tube. Use that coupled with the seal that is suppose to be behind the bearing and you should be good.
Have you checked the housing for straightness in a jig? |
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Ok, about the sealed bearing, according to Kyle, it will leak oil if you autocross it just because so much load is put on that area. With that amount of stress, something is going to deform a bit and let oil through. I do find it interesting though that it continues to leak afterwards under normal driving. Maybe the housing wasn't straightened after it was welded, but I doubt it. Matt |
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