Sieg, leave this one to me as well, mine worked pretty well. :lol:

My cables from Control Cables Inc arrived today. Nice looking pieces and fast turnaround time for a custom spec'd item. (Ordered Thursday night) They won't be installed until I return from Thunderhill though.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-b...b732LNM-XL.jpg

Side note the new rear disc's, once properly biased they feel great. The rear disc's appear to not lock as easy as the drums and the chassis actually feels like it's pulling down a bit under hard braking vs transferring forward and locking. Maybe just my initial perception, but it feels like a 10%+ improvement with better pedal feel under hard braking.

Nice looking pieces.

Nice pieces Sieg. :thumbsup:

Update after a little usage.......mine are working fine too. :headscratch:

Well.........I was bored today.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Q...QQc9TC3-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-H...HcJMBv2-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-m...msBRZzp-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-M...M8FMbgM-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-J...J7gdXpv-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-X...XF8WR86-XL.jpg

Good company under the car.......
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-7...7bLnfJp-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-x...xQRjgRC-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-X...XShgGzW-XL.jpg

That was entertaining......I'm guessing the control arms had never been off since assembled. Rusted bushing bolts and pressed in upper cross shaft bolts can be a PITA with header interference.

The OTC tools are well built and worked great, at under $90 delivered via Amazon prime they were well worth it.

Global West bushings and offset cross-shafts are going in the control arms after refinishing, Pro Forged ball joints and tie rod ends (.5" taller outer ends and upper ball joints), and some used Hotchkis springs and hollow anti-roll bar will round out the upgrades.

Looking good Sieg.

Did you order the Proforged tall tie rod ends yet? I removed mine after installing the AFX spindles with about 500 miles on them. They're yours if you want them. PM me if you're interested.

Tu

Nice work Sieg, looks like your supervisor kept you in line all day.

BTW, do you suffer from the OCD affliction as well? :D

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-x...xQRjgRC-XL.jpg

It's a curse, but it's a blessing as well sometimes. ;)

Tu,

Very much appreciate the offer but I've had all the Pro Forged pieces sitting on the shelf maturing for a year and a half now. :underchair:

OCD as in organized composition disorder? ...........Yes.

I wish someone would have video'd the supervisor as he was under the car and quite affectionate and vocal as if he was saying 'you've been under here most of the day, it's time to go inside!' :D

Is it done yet?



You know what goes a long ways on rusted stuff?? Some liquid wrench the night before....

Almost............:smiley_smack:

What brand are your jackstands?

:lol:

Don

They're old, probably older than you.............but most certainly not as experienced as your stands.

Man I wish my garage was that clean.

Maybe I need to develope some of that OCD Scott!!

Spring dilemma........

Right is a Hotchkis -"2 SBC spring
Wire dia: 0.719" OAL: 12-1/2"

Left is my current spring circa 1992
Wire dia: 0.667" OAL 13-3/8"

The Hotchkis rate is spec'd at 600 lbs and heavier wire diameter than my current springs which I'm guessing are 550 lbs. The Hotchkis has both ends finished and the other has only one finished end and not as 'tight' the Hotchkis.

I don't want the car any lower in front, .5" higher would be ideal.

How much compression sag could be contributed to the unfinished end?

Any guesses as to where it might end up when it's sitting on the ground?

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-B...BfTNsLd-X2.jpg

I had these springs on mine before the change and the car was really low. I scraped my headers on almost every driveway. I ended up bying some spring spacers from Global West. If I remember right they come in several heights. Hope this helps.

psst... coilovers...

:unibrow:

Were you using stock or aftermarket control arms?

Currently my top of wheel opening to ground measurement is 24.25", with no header clearance issues.

I'm thinking spacers will may be needed.........or a money tree and a hybrid coilover setup.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-v...vzVfF47-X2.jpg

RIPPING IT ALL APART.......Are You Bored??

Not bored by any means..........scared would be a more accurate description.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-W...-WhCz62W-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-p...-p6jsc8C-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-w...-wVTPPJD-L.jpg

:D

Norwood
 

Yes I would say it is time for some bushings and rubber pieces
They are older than most on this forum.. kinda like some very
low mileage Panteras that have much of the car just waiting
to fall apart but some investor type spends big bucks because
of the Odometer readings...

Bob

Scott that is a damn fine car you have there!!!

I had stock control arms first and I was about an inch lower about 23 inches. Then I switched to SPC upper and lower and it went down another inch because the lower had a dropped pocket.

I think Global West has a 1" drop spring.

Here's mine with stock UCA/LCA and 2" drop Hotchkis. http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...0881559486.jpg

Norwood
 

My buddy Harry who worked with Herb Adams
Told me they would slope the spacers on the subframe
Medium at the back, smaller in the middle and none
Up front. Frame stayed the same so no header issues
but everything else is lowered

Bob

Thankfully I enjoy shop time, but I wouldn't exactly call the last couple of days fun.......

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-C...CS8nd9s-XL.jpg

No stiction here......
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-8...8Khs3FF-XL.jpg

Smoothed all the edges on the upper and lower control arms.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-h...hJnD3dq-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-P...PdMQL4R-XL.jpg

Anti-roll bar link holes were elongated on both arms, so a quick fix ensued.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-p...pXmnd7G-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-6...6rhL2Fc-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-j...jF2MLJ9-XL.jpg

There was also this small gouge in the area of what I consider the weak link of the OEM lower arm, this could be a 'stress riser' which could magnify the chances of stressed failure.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-K...KXb5Mxh-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-x...x4rqPD2-XL.jpg

2 hours of media blasting later I still don't have a paintable surface.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-V...V56rRwz-XL.jpg

:bang:

I see you have the much needed Greg Weld bushing spacer adapter.

Did you make one for the upper arm yet?

LOL.......you don't miss much Hawkeye! :lol:

Greg Weld......Global West......similar, only much much different.

I'll concoct something for the uppers. :thumbsup:

1 5/8 tubing with a 1" slot cut into it (for cross shaft to fit into) and fits between the arm opening.

Out of curiosity, what was your method for fixing your stress riser?:popcorn2:

:idea: .........finally, justification to buy a mill! :lol:

It's gonna feel like a new car when done!!

Or at least look like one when when you crawl under the front of it. :D

This and the brakes are going to be really nice "improvements". While we know it's only a street driver - these old grey mares ain't what they used to be.... and they need all the help they can get. I did this same kind of upgrades to one of my '69 Camaros (a real Z/28 RS SS) - along with a simple transplant of the 302 with a HO 350 crate motor - a 5 speed - and bolt on Disc brakes in the rear... and THEN I liked driving it!!

BTW -- A good powder coater would have bead blasted those before coating them - and they'd come back so beautiful you'd want to hang them on the wall as art. If you do decide to just paint them -- do yourself a favor and use POR15 -- you will have to clean out the arms where the bushings go because the stuff builds up a pretty good millage. I've found just painting them - they're beat up by the time they get re-installed. I know a good pinstripper in Oregon -- he could lay some nice Hugger Orange do dads on them for ya. LOL

Come over and get mine! I'll then 'have' to buy a new one.....


It ain't the mill that's expensive -- it's the tooling you'll need to be able to actually use it. Oh and a good mill vise - can cost half of what the mill did... you'll need 2 flute cutters for aluminum - and 4 flute for steel - in all the sizes... end mills and ball mills.... and collets for all of 'em... and an indexer... and a coolant pump and tank/recovery system... and all manor of dial indicators and set up tools... and a cabinet to keep all that stuff in.... and 220V 30 amp power... and really good lighting... and it's the size of a refrigerator... so you'll have to add on to the back of the garage... :thumbsup: :poke: :superhack: :G-Dub:

I smoothed it with a Dremel and ran a bead over it with the MIG.

I'm very interested in what the front suspension will feel under hard braking and turn-in with Delrin bushings vs old OEM rubber. As bad as the OEM rubber looked from the exterior, I pulled a couple apart and the concealed 'bearing' surfaces were actually in good shape.

They may still go to the powder coater as I have a gate frame to build that needs to be powdered coated this week.

Is a pinstripper similar to a polestripper? Or were you talking about Mitch "WingBo' Kim the pinstriper?

I'll see you on Wednesday, but only if you throw in the hedge trimmer with the deal............:action-smiley-027:

Like Motel 6 - I'll leave the light on for ya.


Doesn't mean that I'll be home now that I've gotten fair warning of your arrival date.


I like pinstripper better than pinstriper. Mitch Kim is EXACTLY who I was thinking of. He did Rudy's.

Ain't happening Lancelot..............

At some point in Norwood's past, probably in his teenage years, I'm guessing he had a cross country off road trip........so here's the other hot-rodding fix I spent at least two hours on yesterday just so I could run a rod through the lower control arm pick up points to make sure they're in the ballpark.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-j...jWRNVJQ-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Z...ZgtTS82-XL.jpg

After multiple pulls on the folded lip with a big Crescent wrench and cheater bar, then an incision in the stretch point I ended up with this.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-B...BTZvZgB-XL.jpg

Then this.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-D...DbTm43g-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-t...tZMJzkB-XL.jpg

O'l Norwood ain't going to win any beauty contests unless Stevie Wonder is judging.

lol... You know, Ol Foose would have bondo'd up those hammer marks on that after straightening it back out. Jus' sayin'

And what's with all of the oil deposits? I know you don't need any corrosion protection out there. ;)

And that rod through the control arm pickup points trick, where'd you learn that from. http://www.speedinfinity.net/forums/...lt/popcorn.gif

Nice work Sieg, keep it up.

Those come from NOT running an LS motor.....

Naw, after see your patience with the bead blaster a normal 2 hours with a die grinder and sanding disk should be good.

Mill, just like Greg says a whole lot of money is the sum of its parts.