Today I found a deal on craigslist that was too good to pass up, a TKO transmission with the 0.64 5th gear:

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/IMG_3469.jpg

This is not actually the TKO500 or TKO600, but their predecessor, simply the TKO. I got a bit swindled by the guy I bought it from since he advertised it as a TKO600 and I didn't know any better. The only differences between the TKO and the TKO500/600 are the material of the gears, which was upgraded with the TKO500/600, and the bolt pattern of the shifter, which is rectangular for the TKO500/600. My transmission supports 425ft.lbs.

Here's some reading in case you are in the market for a used TKO

3550/TKO: http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/3550_tko.html
TKO500/600: http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/tr-3550.html

Also look at the service manuals on Tremecs website to decode what transmission it is. This is how I got burned.
The serial tag on my tranny is:
TR3550 #2600708

Input Shaft Length: 7.2"
Bearing Retainer Diameter: 4.85"

To make the transmission compatible, I'm gunna ditch the shown bellhousing and go with a Lakewood bellhousing (#15030) or Quicktime (#RM-6064) that adapts the TKO to the chevy small block.

I found another thread on camaros.net where a guy did the exact swap with the Ford 7.2" input shaft:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showth...light=ford+tko

I emailed him since and he said all went well when he used a Ford throwout bearing.

Maybe in by winter!!

Wheel Shot Teaser!
 

Awww yeah.... my wheels came in from Newstalgia. Vintage wheel works V48. Mock up only, I know it's the wrong side... I'll have plenty of pictures once they are fully mounted in a couple weeks time

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/IMG_3498.jpg

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/IMG_3502.jpg

Now I just need a couple free weekends to finish up my car. I will have a proper update in a couple of weeks.

Looks great man, glad to see it moving along!

William

Love the rims, keep up the updates!

Progress
 

Sharp wheels the whole project looks great . Keep the updates coming.

3 steps back!
 

This weekend was chaos! Here is a summary of the new problems that developed:

In ascending order of PITA:
1. The stock wheel studs that came with the ATS spindle are too short. I mocked up my front wheel with the 1/4" spacer, and I can only get 3 turns on the nut...not good. Simple to solve though... I have 2.5" ARP studs on the way, Summit #ARP-100-7708 Of course I'll have a writeup on the replacement. In the mean time:

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/IMG_0596.jpg

2. The relatively cheap 1 5/8" Dynomax headers have no chance of clearing the ATS steering box. The #3 primary is basically groping the box. The pictures shows how there's no chance these headers will work:

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/IMG_0586.jpg

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...IMG_0587-1.jpg

From my research on www.camaros.net , to clear the power steering box you need the right set of headers, and possibly the correct motor mounts. My engine is a 327, likely with the original mounts, which are different from the 350 engine stands which are better for PS box clearance.

David Pozzi breaks it down (thanks!):
http://www.pozziracing.com/Media/camaro_eng_mounts.jpg

So, I ordered a set of Doug's D368 1 3/4" headers...yeah that size is probably too big for a 327, but if these headers work, then they'll be perfectly sized for a future engine build. And if I still need more room, I will acquire the 350 motor mounts and that should cure the problem. Photos of the Doug's soon!

3. Draining the oil, the first 12 ounces or so of fluid from my pan was WATER/COOLANT! Well, this one I guess I could see coming, because back when I built the top end of this engine in college, I was going for max compression and thought I could get away with a 0.015" SCE full copper gasket without the "steel rings". Nope, and an even worse idea with an undecked block and aluminum heads.

But I'm turning this into a positive. Since the topend will be apart, I am pulling out the unknown flat tappet that is lame above 4800rpm, and going with a mild solid roller cam, likely the Comp XR274R. This sets my timeline back significantly, but at least I'll be able to give you my 1st timer solid roller install.

Step 1 of cam swap, radiator out:
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/IMG_0604.jpg

9/14/08 Update

Well, this weekend was a complete turnaround from last weekend...things actually went smoothly for a change! 1st, I installed my new front wheel studs into the ATS C5 hub. ARP 7708 2.5" studs from Summit, they are the correct knurl and thread, and really look like an upgrade over the stock studs:

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/IMG_0618.jpg

To remove the studs, I went to Autozone and picked up a single wheel nut, threaded it down 95% of the way, and tapped lightly with a hammer...that's all it took!

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/IMG_0620.jpg

To install the new studs, I drove to my grandfather's place and used his 20t press.

Next up, my new Doug's D368 headers! And they clear the power steering box! Man, these are quality pieces compared with my Dynomax headers. Doug's top, Dynomax bottom.

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/IMG_0649.jpg

For my mockup install, I had the car on jackstands front and rear, and the steering box was not in. I put the header in from the top. Then I covered the primaries with a rag, and could actually put the steering box in from the top and completely bolt it in. The clearance isn't enormous, but it could be enough since the motor torques to the other side and I am running solid body bushings. Here are some pictures of the clearance:

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/IMG_0660.jpg

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/IMG_0663.jpg

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/IMG_0662.jpg

The clearance is actually a bit more everywhere than these photos show, it's just hard to get a photo that shows the true gap between them. Finding headers that fit is a true victory. :thankyou:I didn't try the passenger side header yet.

Oh, and for the record, here is a photo of the driver's header and how far it hangs below the subframe: Roughly 1.5"

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/IMG_0668.jpg

Teaser wheel shots again!

Vintage Wheel Works V48

Front: 17x8 4.75" Backspacing, 1/4" spacer. 245/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3

Rear: 17x9.5 5.5" Backspacing. 275/40/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3

This was the car's first time on the ground so the suspension is far from settled.

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/IMG_0630.jpg

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/IMG_0626.jpg

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/IMG_0644.jpg

where is the center brake hose from?? i need one!