Lateral-g Forums - question for turbo experts

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We've used these to neck down the pressure to turbos:

http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/pump_acc.html
http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/Photos/remrvlv.jpg

I agree with the statement above that there are plenty of turbos out there running with 35psi & above, but I think your install is challenging your hydro-static seals' ability to hold back the oil. The fact that it still smoked after you had the drain line dump into a bucket isolates your drain side (well, maybe...).

good luck jody.
rick k:)

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevyIIpost (Post 155483)

Did you catch my fuel preasure regulator suggestion as a tempory test for adjusting oil feed preasure/flow?

If repositioning the drain fitting to make the angle the same is resonably easy I would go there first. But the assumtion that is still bothering me is the Turbo having a fresh seal. It took FOUR prochargers on one of the projects I was building at Hot Rod Garage before we got a low boost/noise problem fixed. They repaired 3 of them and we finally told them we wanted a new unit because that is what the customer purchased and no more repaired units. That fixed it. If it failed ounce and there wasn't a completely obvious problem they still may not have found the original issue i.e. something machined wrong or some run out issue. I have fought this more than once.

Can you put a temporary drain hose with a rubber line and staight fitting in place of the 90 fitting as a test?

If you can't come up with a regulator can you put a smaller orfice in place to reduce the flow to the turbo?

It may be a combination issue, marginally high flow, marginal drain fitting/angle, and marginal turbo seal.

IMO just food for thought.

thought of that, just not sure how well a fuel pressure regulator would hold up to the oil temps, even temporarily. The turbos are reduced to .035" which is smaller than most of the info I've seen on the net (most talk about .060"). There is no vertical room for even a 45, so 90 it must be.

Jody

I had the same problem with my car when I put it together! I tried everything you have tried and it still smoked. I had the vacuum pump at 12 inches of vacuum, .025 restricter in the oil line( 4 psi), reclocked the turbo, return line in bucket, 5-30 wt oil...everything! Before I could figure it out, it stopped smoking. It took about a week of driving and many passes on the rev limiter( I think that overspeeding the turbo may have helped with the smoking). It's been smoke free for 4 years now. I have -3 inlet oil lines and -10 drains. The drains have a 90 degree coming off of the turbo and about 6 inches of the line runs horizontal to clear the a-arm before it turns vertical to the oil pan. Drain line enters pan at 45 degree angle. I'm running the vacuum pump at 3 inches at idle.

I know how you feel, it can really piss you off, huh? It made me so mad that I started beating on the car( full throttle @ 18 psi ) and suddenly it stopped smoking! I hope this helps.

Quote:

Originally Posted by projectile (Post 155548)

well, that goes right with one of the earlier threads I made where one of the members said to beat on it, it would seal up............. :lol: I have one more quick try this morning. If it doesn't work I'm going to look into something to reduce the pressure at the turbo.

Fortunately it only smokes at idle, fine running down the road so I can still drive it around and beat on it.

Still can't make more than 10 psi. I removed the manual boost controller lines and ran it off the wastegate springs. They're rated at .9 bar which should be 12-13 psi or so. It goes up to 10 psi quickly so it's not like it's struggling to make boost. Apparently the springs in the wastegates aren't really correct, and it appears my manual boost controller doesn't work at all...........

I know this sounds simple and maybe stupid. Change the spark plugs.
I had the same problem when I started up my GTR TT for the 1st time.
Sent the one turbo out to be rebuilt, etc, etc.
Changed the plugs, the smoking went away completely. (and it built boost)

Jeff-
Did you just replace them, or go colder / hotter, etc?

Jody- I thought these turbos already had road miles on them from Mark / You before 2.0; my bad if you've changed them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohcbird (Post 155610)

Jeff-
Did you just replace them, or go colder / hotter, etc?

Jody- I thought these turbos already had road miles on them from Mark / You before 2.0; my bad if you've changed them.

no, those turbos went with the motor when I sold it. These were brand new units.

Jody

I know I shouldn't bug my head in where I'm clueless, but I was talking to someone about your problems today.

The suggested that if you take off the cold air tube, and put a socket/breaker bar on the turbine nut, you can stop the turbo from spinning at idle, because they turn so slow. Now, if it's a seal issue, it shouldn't smoke when the turbo is not spinning. If it's a oil drain issue, it will still smoke.

It made sense to me.....

Quote:

Originally Posted by eville (Post 155617)

well, I'm no expert either, but from some who are the slow or no spinning IS the issue. When it spins slowly the oil is not directed down the drain hole, and guys seem to have way more smoke issues at idle than anywhere else.

The faster the shaft spins the better it is directed to the drain and out of the turbo, instead of puddling at the seal.

Jody