We are so far off the subject at hand its not even funny. All the poor guy that started this thread wanted to know was how to fit his gaps.

Step 1. align the best you can with hinges, latches, bolts
Step 2. decide if thats good enough
Step 3. weld and metal finsh gaps to your liking
Step 4. skim coat with filler

you can beat, pry, pick, move, pull structure tell your blue in the face..... you wont get oem style gaps 1/8-3/16 with out some filler and a welder.... thats it the end I will argue that point forever. I dont know how to say have a good night in Deutsch or russian .... but good night:thumbsup:

AMD is the closest thing to OEM,in some cases thicker gauge metal with nice crisp lines ,give it try next time ,AMD has alot of metal for 1st gen.even complete aluminum front and deck lids

Thanks, I'll have to check them out.

Glad to see this thread worked out so well for the OP.

well, i actually got my answer in the first few posts, so it actually worked out. hopefully it will get cleaned up some since i know im not the only one looking for answers and id rather it not get locked.

so some new questions since everyone is now looking at this thread....

any more pictures of gapping?
any videos of you guys blocking over the gaps?
any good videos of blocking in general? especially lines????

everyone says to block up to a line but not over it. but then theres no way to get it crisp. do you just mean not to roll it once you get to it? hard to explain, but i sharpen the edge of wood by running a sander or plane partially over the edge, but i keep it parallel to the surface im working. if you dont, you will round it over. is this how you guys block, or are you seriously stopping say 1/4" from any body line?

thanks again, Tim

and please mods, clean up but do not lock.

tim, i like to put a piece of tape on one side of the line, and work one side, then tape side i just worked and work other side, i do this on the 69 camaro fender and door line and rear quarter line, its helps a ton in keeping the lines as straight as possible.
you can block over them, however like you mentioned do not roll over them.
I like to use a sponge block to dull line to what i want, you can get them too sharp.


guys, I would be very surprised if amds metal came from anywhere different then goodmarks.

if amd's metal was so far superior, we all would have heard of it and been using it by now.
aftermarket panels fit how they fit.

OP, use good masking tape to mark the lines and block up to it,when done blocking, lay another strip of masking tape right up against the old tape and block the other side,when done blocking,you shoud end up with very sharp and crisp line,if it's too crisp,roll over it few time to your liking

use straight edge wherever you can to make sure you have no dips in the panel.That can happen if you use short blocks, so try using long blocks where possible, I recommend 2x1/4x24 aluminum stock wrapped in masking tape few times,or stop by Home Depot and pick a paint mixing paddle. I never trust foam blocks,even if they cost $50 a piece ,when blocking, do not push,let the sandpaper do the work and after few strokes,change direction

Without a tig welder, should I stay away from silicon bronze? How do you use silicon bronze to seal / fill the joints between the tulip panel / qtrs and qtrs to rear body panel? Can I use a mig? if so size wire?

use .023 mig wire.er70s
we use silicon bronze as it requires alittle less heat then er70s filler, we use .035 tig filler rod but thats as small as i can get it. It metal finishes as nice or better then steel.

Not sure I follow you on the sealing of tulip panel etc. we usually use fusor metal glue(108 or 110b) for the tulip panel to quarter panel seams, you can clamp them underneath fairly easy. provides a very nice seam for seam sealing before paint. we then plug weld the window seam and the trunk weather strip seam, if leaving trunk weather strip piece in place we will glue that seam and use 3 kleckos to hold it together