Lateral-g Forums - Anyone have Auto Rad ?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ProdigyCustoms (Post 298061)

We normally do dual 13s on that radiator, but with your built in engine oil cooler your limited to dual 12s. The difference in total CFM from 2850 to 3490 is substantial especially at idle. 20% more fan will make a big difference in idle cooling. 4700 CFM out of dual 16" fans on a full core support is a huge difference.

With a wider core, mounting everything might get tricky for you. You would most likely have to front mount a overflow or one of your other canisters.

Frank/Todd....

You need to RAISE the voltage produced to the fans... most will handle 16v and they will spin faster with more voltage. A boost step up regulator or a DC to DC converter on just the fan circuit. Your issue would be to find the voltage increase WITH the amperage required. You need 12v to 16v dc to dc with at least 30 amps output.

Be careful because some converters can't handle the load so you need to talk to someone that knows what you're trying to do and can supply the right converter.

Here's a quick "look" at what I'm referring to. I didn't do any research to find "THE ONE" that you would need (depending on the load - you may need one for each fan) -- this is just a beginning reference:

http://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm

I agree, I have a one wire alternator and it doesn't need to charge that often so the voltage hangs around 12.8-13 volts most of the time. Not ideal for headlights or fans. I took it out last night and it stayed at 175-180 until I got to crusising around the 25mph streets and then it was only 195-205 when I parked it. With a 666hp big block in over 100 degrees heat, I'm happy with it. It's healthier for the engine anyway. It's about the only time I can get any oil temp in this thing on the street. Still had oil temps of 180 or so. When it's cool out I play hell getting any heat in this thing even with a 180 stat.

Man Greg...... You know alot of zhit!!!!:D

Quote:

Originally Posted by DOOM (Post 298653)

Man Greg...... You know alot of zhit!!!!:D

DUUUUDE! (as a buddy likes to say - LOL)... 40 years of doin' zhit.... somethin's got to stick even for a D.B. like me! :rofl:

If this guy named Greg is so damn smart then why didn't he call it an amplifier? :unibrow:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegas69 (Post 298690)

If this guy named Greg is so damn smart then why didn't he call it an amplifier? :unibrow:

Because it isn't an amplifier :unibrow: An amplifer would multiply the 12 volts by a fixed value. If the 12 volts varies then so does the output. The regulator puts out 16 volts regardless of the input voltage (within it's stated input voltage range).

Don

Quote:

Originally Posted by dhutton (Post 298694)

Thanks Don...

I wasn't even going to bother with a reply. Some guys are better off if they just remain as they are... carburetors... old school big blocks.. you know what I'm talking about. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Todd -- all kidding aside -- you could get a nice big one and stick it in the trunk and it would be like a battery -- some ballast for you.

**** you guys. :unibrow:

And......... just to get the thread back on track....... here's my completed AUTO RAD WORK OF ART (not my work = they're work!). I haven't made the SS overflow line yet... that's tomorrow.

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/DSC_7842.jpg

I'm running the SPAL PWM fan controller - and with the two 16" fans - the temp doesn't move. I like the fan controller because it's neat and tidy and the #1 fan only comes on at half speed (QUIET!) and then slowly ramps up as needed. When it hits full speed and can't control the temp - then #2 kicks in. BOTH kick in if you crank the A/C... and turn the A/C off and they continue to run for 30 seconds... cooling things down big time. I like it! :woot: