I do appreciate your efforts!

I'm using a modified factory 6x-72 C10 truck arm arrangement (aftermarket tubular T/A's w/Spohn swivel joint ends, air bags, Bilstein shocks, & 36" adjustable Panhard bar).

OK dude it's 2011, we like photos around this joint.:unibrow:

It was a truck so I withheld. Here's the body I'm working with....

Extra frame that was free. Long wheel base cut down to short wheel base dimensions. Rear bed 'clip' Z'd/raised 3" to match the raised dimensions of the front Porterbuilt Dropmember front suspension.

Front suspension is....
Porterbuilt Dropmember w/73-87 Ride Tech a-arms
73-87 spindles/discs
Slam Specialties RE7 bags
Bilstein shocks (C10)

Rear suspension is....
Porterbuilt rear truck arms w/raised front mounting points (flipped brackets =3") & adjustable Spohn swivel joints
Porterbuilt rear Panhard bar w/owner fabbed adjustable frame bracket
Slam Spec RE6 bags
Bilstein shocks (G-body)
12bolt, 3.73's, Moser axles, HD drum brakes

Other....
sbc/700r4
Vintage steelies/caps
The small back window cab now has a big back window

And to keep the thread on track....

the only thing i can add is dont get stuck on the 3* driveline BS that everyone talks about. what the heck is it in relation to? how it sits on 4 wheels with your stance? the frame? what part? the rocker? and from where on the motor is it measured???...... hopefully you see what i mean.

the only thing you care about are the angles and their relationship to each other. it sounds like you are going in the right direction.

oh, and dont worry so much about max compression. RARELY are you going to be at full bump under speed for long enough for anything to matter. turns usually dont move the center of the pinion as much as you might think since one wheel moves up and the other down.

I only measure for max compression because it is on air bags. Clearance needs to be 'built-in' so nothing touches if it's air'd out. My main concern is no vibration @ ride height so I can drive it everywhere w/o issues. The reference that a d.shaft on an incline slope from the trans to the pinion will be a problem has me worried.

If that's ride height, the driveshaft is definitely sloping down to the pinion. When you measure working angles, it needs to be on the u joint caps. That photo with the block of aluminum is not an accurate measurment. You should measure the u joint cap in the pinion and the driveshaft. That is your working angle.

Widowmaker, I agree that the chassis doesn't have to be level. The numbers will jive regardless. The issue is a pinion that is higher than a tailshaft.

Thanks for the photos...

Yes, that was 'ride height' but the pics are deceiving as it was barely sloping up to the pinion (between .2-.5). The alum block was only done to see if the measure was similar to the one taken @ the machined surface of the starter mounting pad (for pics).

To recap, that was @ ride height w/the block/driveline set @ 2.5° & the pinion w/no shims @ 2.2-2.4°.