Thanks Sieg....great info :thumbsup:

I'll plan to use the stock Tremec shifter for now.... maybe try the Blackjack later on after the fix. My Muncie trans always leaked oil and I want to get away from that.

Yea I can't wait to get the new trans in. I ran about a dozen track days with the Muncie and never had any issues... the first time on the track with the new engine I seized up third gear on the main shaft... this caused the rear end to lock up at about 80 mph! Honestly I just don't trust the Muncie after that... time for some new technology.

I can't wait for that first time behind the wheel with the new trans :D

(ordered QT bell today)

For my engine we went with a 150 Amp Powermaster alternator… a billet aluminum alternator mount, and a 3-1/2” diameter billet aluminum 6 rib drive pulley.

The stock pulley on the Powermaster alternator was 2” diameter. The engine builder changed the pulley from 2” diameter to 3-1/2” diameter so the alternator would run at the correct speed when I am running higher RPM’s on the track. He also provided a 2” diameter pulley and a smaller diameter serpentine belt set up for street only use.

So far I have run the 3-1/2” diameter on the track and on the street with no issues. I did notice that when I’m in traffic on hot days with the electric fan running full time, the battery voltage drops slightly. Under normal driving conditions it's fine.



Billet aluminum bracket with alternator mounted high on passenger side of engine

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps914f5cd8.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psed6c5ed8.jpg


Here is a shot of the stock 2" diameter pulley in comparison to the 3-1/2" pulley.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8fdb4d5e.jpg

I have always had problems with the stock power steering pump boiling over when I do the HPDE events (makes a mess!!). For this build I upgraded to a KRC racing power steering pump and billet aluminum mount. The KRC pump has a 6-1/2” diameter pulley… my stock Chevy power steering pump had a 5-1/2” diameter pulley.

So far I have done one HPDE event with the KRC unit with no problems (no boil over). My educated guess is that the stock unit is not designed to run high RPM’s for extended periods. The speed of the pump is too fast and that creates extra heat. The KRC unit is better suited to running at higher RPM with the larger diameter pulley. This slows down the pump speed which helps to reduce power steering fluid temps. So far so good...no leaks the last time out.


The power steering pump is mounted high on drivers side of engine.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psda8ef800.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps54c22e8c.jpg


Here is a shot of the 6-1/2" diameter 6 rib KRC pulley. The mounting bracket was made by the engine builder.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps62fdefeb.jpg

Welcome to the site! Great car--and the motor sounds sweet---especially for an LS motor. I think you will find a more responsive audience here, especially since it's a 69 Camaro---we only have a few of those on this site.

Looking forward to more updates and some additional track photos when you have them.

Doug

Thanks Doug!


Here is more detail on the 4-barrel TB set up. The throttle body is just an air valve on this set up. The fuel is injected into the intake ports on the heads through the injectors mounted on the base on the single plane intake.

We used a FAST 4-barrel TB on a GM LS7 single plane intake. The butterfly's open inward on the primary and secondary side, and are manually controlled rather than drive by wire. The arm on the TB has multiple mounting positions so you can control how fast the butterfly's open. I built a custom throttle linkage setup that attaches to the stock Camaro accelerator pedal. This worked out well...the throttle has a good progressive feel and does not come on too fast and is totally adjustable.

The FAST throttle body has a TPS (throttle position sensor) and IAC (idle air control) built in. We installed a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor inside the single plane intake and an IAT (intake air temp) sensor in the air cleaner base. The engine is set up with a speed density tune.



Homemade throttle return spring bracket mounts to the front two screws on the TB.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psd00e802d.jpg


The homemade throttle linkage (red rod) connects to the stock Camaro gas pedal

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8cc072fd.jpg


"idle air control" on the left, "throttle position sensor" on the right

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...pse14d24b2.jpg


Here is a shot of the "intake air temp" sensor in the air cleaner base

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...pse5bf4ade.jpg


The bell housing for the T56 is being delivered tomorrow. This weekend I plan to start on the trans swap (muncie to T56 Mag)

:cheers:

We used FAST 58# injectors for the port fuel injection. The engine builder machined the GM LS7 intake to accept the injectors and made some custom mounts for the fuel rails. We found out later that GM sells a LS7 single plane intakes with the injector ports already machined. This would have saved some time if we had known.


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps87e99356.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8d02fe79.jpg


I used GM truck coils for this build. The truck coils have aluminum heat sinks to help dissipate heat.... a nice feature.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psa45d3093.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psf628e60b.jpg


I made a custom bracket to mount the GM truck coils to the Katech valve covers. The brackets are thin gauge steel and were cut out on a laser and then formed... I plan to make a new set from aluminum and then either polish or have them anodized red to dress it up a little under the hood.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps44118bab.jpg

Dale thx for posting. Not much info out there on conventional intakes on an LS motor. I doubt you'll max out your inatke air requirements (KPI?) with that set up :thumbsup:

Thanks Ron. It’s fun to try something different and I’m glad to share the info here. I couldn't be happier with the single plane set up on my LS engine, no regrets.

The LS style intakes work great... but the single planes also work well when set up with the right parts. No problem with air flow on this set up.

T56 Magnum install
 

I started working on the transmission swap from the Muncie 4-speed to the T56 Magnum this past weekend. I have had a lot of issues with the Muncie lately and can't wait to get the new trans in (oil leaks & syncro problems)

I bought a kit from Hurst Driveline Conversions that included a T56 Magnum close ratio trans, cross member, speedo cable, and some wiring. When I bought the ZR1 clutch kit it came with the clutch, aluminum flywheel, and a GM hydraulic slave cylinder.

TUET11009 Tremec trans

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psd67d8571.jpg


GM slave cylinder

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps86e50fcc.jpg


Quick Time steel bell housing, Hurst cross member

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3f244a34.jpg


I'm planning to use a GM clutch master cylinder and a mounting bracket on the firewall. Not sure which GM clutch master to use?

Also, I'm wondering what to do about the reverse lock out mechanism that is connected to the Muncie trans. The lockout is set up so that when you put the car in reverse and turn the key off, the steering wheel locks. Not sure how to handle this.

Any help with these questions would be appreciated, Thanks :thumbsup:

:lateral:

Dale you're going to love that tranny!

Call Jim Goodlad @ Hurst Tech, he's the previous owner of the original company and a great guy. He should be able to give good honest guidance on the clutch master. He also own's a '69 Z28. :thumbsup:

I don't have any trans lock-out connected and the column lock still functions. Here's a pic that shows the position of mine (original automatic car) in a position that works........at least when I shut the ignition down when the fire erupted I could still steer! http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-X...XSjWZSK-X2.jpg