Hello.... THAT was not my idea... I only use vinegar to clean the coffee pot! I'd have walked that nasty azz rod right over to the bead blaster and 50 seconds later it'd be rust free...

THEN --- my idea was to make a TIG torch holder.... and that's where YOUR talent should begin.


HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA


Will be a kool project.

I save cereal boxes because they are about the right thickness to use for sheet metal work. I use them for patterns to make sheet metal parts.

I had a thought the other day to build a template for a transmission hump. I covered the hole over my TKO with cardboard, used a 3" lid to get the diameter of the shifter plate.

I screwed the cardboard to the hole, covered it with wax paper, and then began the fiberglass layup process.

Fits like OJ's gloves :lmao:

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...psb8b66514.jpg

"If the glove doesn't fit, you must vote to acquit!" (or whatever was actually said)


Hope it fit better than OJ's glove! Thanks for the bad memories.... LOL


GREAT IDEA BY THE WAY!!!

We always used cornstarch on bare aluminum airplanes to clean and brighten the finish back in my high school days. Flour seemed to "gunk up" and cause streaks. Worked great on our 1948 Cessna 140. Cheap and quick, but not always easy, lol:) Note: wear a mask!

Did the same on a T-6 once. ONCE! Way to much surface area IMO. Worked great though.

got to give you credit for this, tremendous help on doing my brake lines

Actually that is a great idea for laying out brake lines... I keep old junk sections I pull out of cars and straighten them to use as mockups while bending but this is even better.

This also works well for removing stubborn bellhousing dowel pins you aren't reusing. Weld a bolt on to the end of the dowel pin with the threads facing out, use a piece of pipe with a washer that allows the threads to stick out. Antiseize the threads and put a nut on... tighten with impact gun and the dowel pin will pop right out.

Once a guy learns how to read and use the markings on his bender - the only tool you need is a tape measure. Whether you're bending a 45* or a 90* or measured to the outside or center etx. The minute you figure that out you're bends will look more professional and will land where you want them to.

Just sayin'

Yes, but tight space stuff comes out nicer if you mock it up first... especially when trying to connect two points in space (like an apron to a master cylinder) with multiple lines and make it all look nice.