One thing you guys have to realize is that not everyone can afford to build a $100,000+ car. Some of us have to cut costs when possible.

Obviously, if budget is not a concern or you're building a high end build, you buy the best of everything.

Some people are running $500 headers with no clearance issues, and it's a matter of figuring out what engine/frame mounts and adapter plates they used to fit.

Some of us are pulling LS motors out of junkyard cars and stuffing them in our classics, others are ordering $10,000+ crate motors and letting other people do the work for them. Just food for thought. Don't hate on the people that are budget conscious.

^^^ this.

Going back to my ground clearance issues with the Dynatech, I looked at some old photos of Ridetech's Velocity, which the Dynatech headers were designed around, and it showed the motor mounts flipped around (the metal tab is at the bottom-similar to Speedtech mount). I'll try flipping the motor mounts around this weekend and report back.

I don't think anyone is hating. obviously budget is the biggest issue to consider on these projects. but IMO you do have to pick where to spend your money, and if ground clearance is imports(the theme of this thread) then you probably have to spend some money. why spend 500.00 on a header that doesn't fit, then spend a 1000.00 to fix the problem when you could have spent the 1000. in the first place.

I subscribe to your way of thinking 67rally, the market has seen quite a few new parts for 1st-gen LS swaps come out over the last year that gives more choices than ever to each user, depending on what his goals/budget require. Many of these parts offer improved quality (through CAD/FEA design and lean manufacturing) and more affordable prices compared to parts of the past and present opportunities for installing parts that are designed to work as a system as opposed to a mixed bag of parts from various manufacturers. Times are good for 1st-gen swappers in the planning stages of their projects or getting ready to make parts purchases.

That's a valid point Blake. I guess the point of the thread is really "is there a 500 header that fits right?" I already figured out that the $200 eBay headers don't fit. At least someone else can learn from that mistake...

FWIW, I went through the same thought process when I bought my control arms. I did Hotchkis springs front and rear, and looked at their UCA's and LCA's first. Then I saw the SpeedTech one's were about 20% less in price, seemed to be just as good quality and even included a steering stop on the LCA. I opted for the SpeedTech one's based on both quality and value. Every cruise/show I go to people ask about them. I saved a couple hundred bucks, and put it towards the next upgrade.

toddoky, the new Hooker stuff looks great and if I were just starting the swap I'd probably go this route. I even advised a friend doing the swap to look into your complete kit, and he bought it.

But as I stated in my original post on page 1:
I can't justify throwing out a practically brand new Holley oil pan, BMR trans x-member, ES motor mounts, Dingo sliders, etc.

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I'm willing to put the time and effort into finding a decent fitting header given my existing components.

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I completely understand where you're at 67rally, I was merely supporting your point that not everyone is looking for a $1,000 set of headers and that better fitting headers, engine mounts and crossmembers are now available for this swap than were available even just a year ago. If I was in your position I would be looking to find a work-around just as you are.

67Rally how high are you mounts now?

No pics yet but the shop sent me some measurements for you. They measured from the block flange to the center of the trans mount bolt which is 22-3/16".

It's somewhere between 4 1/8" to 4 1/4" from the subframe to the engine block.

I can't get a perfect measurement right now because I can't open my hood very far. The nose of my Camaro is parked under a wall mounted tire rack, and I don't have my new rear end fully installed, so I'm kind of stuck until I can get back to rolling the car out far enough to open the hood again.

But...The Dirty Dingo sliders are .500" thick, and the closest measurement I could get was between 3.625-3.75" for the combined height of the frame mounts & motor mounts.

I'm using the tall & narrow '69 Z28/350 frame mounts (3945507/8) and the tall & narrow Energy Suspension motor mounts (3.1117G).