Okay -- 32 -- whatever --- The point was more that 10* at idle isn't what I'd be aiming for.


And yes FLASHIE --- small blocks can run down in the 32 and 34 range if the parts are right - he's probably running close to zero quinch - ported heads - race gas....

The dinosaur --- not so much.

Now --- back up til about 1970.... fire up an Ed Pink Hemi Nitro motor -- with 70* in it.... oh yeah baby....

I'm idling at 1200 also Greg. You might be right on the bushing but I'm running along the lines of "going to run it as we tuned it".

I am going to take a second look at my old distributor though and make sure on the bushing. I never remember changing the bushing in it but in the 8 years of running the same distributor I may have forgot.

When we dyno'd I remember the distributor acting like it was locked out......not sure how to explain that one.

Well --- many people fuss around with A:F ratios trying to find power -- but the real power comes from getting the timing RIGHT....


I just checked with Ed Pink and he said we used to run around 60+ish degrees not the 70 I misstated above. Obviously Nitro burns a little slower than our race gas. LOL


Did you guys know that the headers in a fuel car can create a 1000 pounds of downforce? Why don't we just run our headers out the bottom and point 'em up in the air... HAHAHAHAHA that would be so bitchin!!!

Joe asked me why you didn't have the advance locked in. I replied, Its a street car

Run some Bull Horns

I don't know what dyno tuning has to do with a distributor bushing? Most of these guys worry about one thing, wide open throttle, power, and air/fuel. As long as the exhaust temps are in the ball park, the tuning is left for the chassis.

You are getting away with that small bushing because you idle it at 1200. If you dropped it down to 900-1000, you may foul plugs. Also, you may be getting a bit of advance at that rpm. I'm not sure but the timing light would be the moment of truth.

I was going to ask that queston but you answered it HAHAHAHA

I'm pretty sure the most important thing when dyno tuning would be to get the timing set where the engine runs most efficient. From there I think its getting your AFR's where they should be.

I agree that at 1200 I'm probably getting the advance that I need.

Just checked my old distributor. though I couldn't tell by color anymore, by size I'm running the blue bushing.

The rate of "advance" added in a mechanical distributor is controlled by the advance springs.... it has little to do with idle speed -- provided the springs installed are controlling the weights.

The timing is SET for initial using the timing light to tell you where the timing is AT that particular RPMs... So unless you're loping so badly that your motor is adding and then subtracting timing - it should be fairly stable. If not - you should be looking for other adjustments to smooth out the issue.

I always check the actual timing curve being used - with a dial back light - and I actually map the timing in 500 rpm increments until ALL the timing is in. It's easy to map it with a pad of paper and a pencil and a dial back light that will read RPM's... you just screw the idle up from idle - 500 rpms - dial the light back til you see 0 on the balancer - write that result down... and add 500 rpms and repeat the process. Until you've reached your maximum timing degrees.

Since the timing should be all in around 2500 or 3000 rpms -- that's not hurting a thing to spin the motor for the brief amount to make this map. Now you can sit back and know exactly what your advance curve looks like - what your initial is - and what the total is. Once you know that what you EXPECTED for total timing is what you thought --- now you can subtract your bushing size -- in your case 21* -- and that better match up with the number you're seeing on the balancer or the digital readout on the dial back. Then you're done.

Now -- if you want to mess with timing -- you can just change the spring combo... and you should be able to be secure in the knowledge that the distributors inner workings are okay, and know that the advance is working as it should be.

Changing the curve can have profound affects. Want to see -- just put back the two garage door springs that come stock on all MSD distributors... talk about turning a good motor into a pig.... OH BUDDY!

If I remember right it was full in at 2K