So today I was working on my 4 link tabs, and a buddy came over.
So shootin the sh*t we started talking about the windshield, and a few hours later, the metal work is nearly done.
Some sanding, some bondo and primer and itll be ready for paint.
Then ill drop the frame off at the window guy and let the take it from there.
I want to paint it body color before dropping it off for the window to be made and glued in. This way I will know it is got epoxy, primer, paint and plenty of rust and corrosion resistance before the flush mount glass is mounted.
I'm not sure if the ‘red triangle’ needs to be made or not. Currently it is a not so 90 degree corner. I'm guessing the black around the glass will hide the corner. But, it’s something I got to figure out.
Hope you all like the chop, and the rounded window ‘corner’s

So as some of you might remember from my rendering, the door lines aren’t ‘scout’ lines. The scout doors have that inward angled portion on the back.
One of the modifications I wanted to do was suicide doors, and I don’t like how the rear B pillar is on the scout bodies.

Not anytime soon, but my plan is to use my old truck, ‘Alice’ door jambs and flip them side to side and shorten to fit. Peel off the door skins from the scout and modify them to attach to the 2001 doors frame.

This way, itll have inner hinges that are factory reversed for a reverse or suicide opening, just like it came from the factory.

I put the ‘drivers/left side’ door jamb next to the passenger side of Allison to see how much work it will take. I think I need to narrow the door jamb about 4 maybe 5 inches to fit, but, it appears to be a relatively easy modification. I think in a weekend or so I could have the ‘new’ doors hung and functioning. Not fully completed, nor body worked, but able to be opened and closed.

No I won’t be putting the angled lower portion of the door as the scout had, it will be a normal ‘square’ door with rounded lower corners.

Here is a picture for reference.

This evening, I had about 2 hours to spare, so I grabbed the new lower control arms and hacked off the bump stops from them.

Pulled off the front suspension and stuck on the new lowers.

I found it they 'went' up higher than the dehumped stockers I had previously, but they still hit part of the frame.

The sun was getting pretty low and visibility was very low, so I pulled the suspension, jacked up the front of the frame and slid in an airbag for a picture.

The opening. cut out for the airbag is very rough at this point. I am just trying to get everything to fit and operate correctly before it all gets torn apart for the frame rack, final fabrication and welding.

My S22 phone still amazes me at the pictures it takes. This below pic was nearly pitch black out. I couldn't walk without my flashlight, but yet, the phone can take pics like its 5 pm in the afternoon.. crazy

Tomorrow morning ill finish cutting the frame section that is hitting the lower control arm and do a bit more clearancing for the air bag. The object here is to get the suspension going up and down, steering, engine/trans mounts made etc..

Then tear down for final fab work, powder coating etc..

-oh, and no I do not know if I am keeping that sway bar mount there or if I’ll cut it off and move it.

The black around the glas is called FRIT and they should be able to add it at the width you need. The proper way to prep the pinchweld where the glass adhesive will be is to use two part epoxy only. Adding primer, paint or clear compromises adhesion. Yes, the factory does it, but they're using completely different paint not available to us. i apply epoxy, let it cure then just run 3/4 tape over it when priming or painting/ Peel the tape off and you have you epoxy for the glass urethane to bond to.

what paint are they using that is not available?


i called a glass shop and they came by and applied their own 'window primer' to the metal where the urethane will go. Then they said to mask off their 'primer' and do whatever i needed to do.
When done, peel the tape off their primer and it'll be ready for the urethane to be applied.

So yes I removed the sway bar mount..

Did some more hacking on the frame to get the airbags to fit and not rub.



Hooked up some airline and gave it a few up down tests. (down is the fittings leaking at the airbags, theyre only hand tightened..)



The new bushings squeak, but at least it goes up and down in the front, and I can grease them after powder coating.



Next is to tackle the rear air ride and 4 link bars.



-----> small video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEP62aCrY-E



....one step closer

The glass company window primer is a 1K product and is typically used to cover bare metal from scratches caused by removing the old adhesive. I would not use that for large areas. A 2K epoxy is the recommendation from the auto makers. You really should be using epoxy first on all bare metal anyway so it becomes a no brainer.
It is possibe there are some primer advancements, I need to do glass in a week or so, I'll ask around. Glass work is unregulated and shady things happen. I'd ask for training documents before using a glass company.

Paint answer:
Not sure exactly what it is but paint companies tell me it is different, they bake at much higher temps. I aslo think they are uncatalyzed with heat instead of chemical cure. They also use different application method, bell sprayers. For PPG, DuPont and SW that I have used there was automotive finish paint (OEM) and automotive refinish paint (us).

This evening i was able to weld up all the holes on the window frame.

And i started rounding the upper outer corners.

Tomorrow ill finish the metal work, add some bondo, and get the first coat of primer sprayed onto the window frame.

Will need to block it out, and primer again before spraying on the color.

I want to get this to the glass shop asap so there is no excuse not to have it completed by the dec car show im trying to make...

Good luck making that show!

ugh, dont jinx it !!! :)



Tonight I did the first round of body work to the window frame.
Possibly tomorrow i can block the areas and reprime it.

It is plenty straight i could paint it now, but, i want to finger the inner window areas another round before i paint it.