Gen 1 aluminum blocks move around a lot--like a boneless chicken. That means inferior ring seal that could cause minor smoking and cylinder wall washing. Not a problem for race cars but annoying on a true street car such as the application you described. Sux to be sitting in traffic with 15lbs oil pressure at idle because the engine is hot and clearances have opened up. It's not the end of the world, just be prepared for some embarrassing blue smoke and more frequent rebuilds. That's why GM never offered OE aluminum blocks in vettes until the LS stuff arrived. It took a total redesign to achieve a warranty ready aluminum block.

If you absolutely gotta have an aluminum block, go LSx or pick the block that has the most reinforcing ribs and the thickest bulkheads. Then build the motor tight as Rocket stated--That will cost you some power, but you'll be happier in the long run.

And there's no sense price shopping a Dart block since you'll spend extra for the one off parts. Just bite the bullet and hand your wallet to your engine builder.

And there's no sense price shopping a Dart block since you'll spend extra for the one off parts. Just bite the bullet and hand your wallet to your engine builder.[/QUOTE]

I am the engine builder. This will be my 11th. So far the 406's have been the fastest.

I ran a alumunim big block 632 on the street and raced for 5 years,I freshened it yearly with now problems,ran 8's in the 1/4 and drive to the track.Then ran a 710 on the street for about 4 months(sold the car)with no problems.

I built it tight gave up a little race preformance,but never had a street problem.An aluminum block move's around alittle,but there's several tricks to using.always let it warm up alittle bit,if you dry sump it,you need to pre oil it before everytime you start it.

They are alittle more pain,but they live well.

I have not driven the car with that motor yet.I am taking it on the power tour and im not to worried about it.

I am the engine builder. This will be my 11th. So far the 406's have been the fastest.[/QUOTE]

Well that helps. So what blocks did you use for the other 10 engines?

The Mule has a aluminum smallblock and has had no problems with low oil pressure, smoking etc that I have ever noticed and it has over 10,000 miles on it. Red Witch has a aluminum big block with over 20,000 miles with no problems either.

Well that helps. So what blocks did you use for the other 10 engines?[/QUOTE]

They were all stock blocks. 5 350's Chevys, 1 460 Ford, 2 406's Chevy's, 1 Pontiac 350, and a Pontiac 1.8L.

They were all stock blocks. 5 350's Chevys, 1 460 Ford, 2 406's Chevy's, 1 Pontiac 350, and a Pontiac 1.8L.[/QUOTE]


Take your time,doing an aluminum block is differnet than doing a steel block,rememeber tight clearance's.do alot a research on prepping the block.you don't want to mess up a 4k block

Take your time,doing an aluminum block is differnet than doing a steel block,rememeber tight clearance's.do alot a research on prepping the block.you don't want to mess up a 4k block[/QUOTE]


Thanks Rocketman I will. I am still kind of thinking about just doing a iron block.

Look up RickW on our car sites..

Clill, you wanna adopt me??

He, He!!

pdq67