I got my oil sender all set up for my gauges along with the temp sender in the manifold. I have to get a 90 degree elbow to make it work. The block is made for this elbow. I bet the factory does it the same way.

I got the master cylinder all mounted up for mock up of the brake lines. I made a bracket out of 1/8 inch aluminum and mounted my proportioning valve and ran the brake line all the way to the rear. What a pain in the ass! I bought the jegs 25 ft roll and had my crapsman flare tool break at 11:30 at night!!!! They replaced it :thumbsup:

I went ahead and mocked up my radiator and breather tank just to get an idea on my firewall set up.
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I have done a bunch of misc crap. Trimmed the glove box insert so it would fit. Does anything bolt on these cars??? :lol: Have one door panel that has already been on and ready to go. The clips weren't even fricking close. This door panel was ridiculous. I spent the better part of the night on it. The drivers side fits nice! Screws through the handle and carpet will hold it on since I am running a deluxe interior. I found out I have to change window regulators so they are setting in a box in the garage. I did put on the outside window trim and quarter window rubber, rear license plate bracket, rear lock cylinder, new dome light and bezel. Some other misc crap. It's been a lot of fun so far. :D

Looks great! Frank and crew did a great job on the paint…I love black when it’s done right!

I have been trying to figure out what color to paint my engine compartment (Body color which is Tuxedo black or semi–gloss black or flat black). Looks like yours is semi gloss…I like it!

Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing the updates with us.

looks awesome man, if i may say something, what size core on the radiator? and what size fan? generally twin 11's barely cool a big hp bb, on vins car we a twin 13 inch fans and a be cool radiator and it does its job but it runs 190-200
cant wait to see more good luck:cheers:

car looks great!!!! keep up the good work:thumbsup:

Looking good!! I can't wait for those days!!

I appreciate it guys......I have my doubts on the radiator as well. I scored a good deal on it over a year ago from this guy.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/67-69...spagenameZWDVW It's a two row and really is a pretty nice piece in person. He has 99.7 percent feedback and over 2000 sales on radiators. I don't believe everything I read. I will definitely let you know. I scored it for like 400 bucks with the fan.
I wouldn't go past semi gloss unless you spend a lot of prep time on the radiator support...etc If you need to touch it up...out comes the semi gloss can.

looks great todd moving pretty fast! so what next weekend it will be all done and on the road lol.

Hell yes.....:D Waiting on three brake pieces and I can plumb the rest. Then I can feasably stab the engine. If I can talk Frank into sending me my damn wiring harness I'll be set. Better get a tranny coming as well. I also decided to remove the plastic off the front end. It wasn't exactly sealed and did a great job protecting the paint but thanks to Curtis I took it off. The clear coat went on about 60 days ago. Probably cured but not taking any damn chances! I'll just have to get some fluffy towels.

I got that info from Anthony (AWR68) so right or wrong he gets the credit...or blame, however you want to look at it. :D

My new headers arrived today
 

But they are painted black and have v clamps which I didn't order. I am actually digging the black and considering whats called black velvet ceramic coating. In all actuality I'll probably just go with the same coating as the last set. I went ahead and rerouted my plug wires and tweaked everything to fit.
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I have made some good progress in the last week and a half. All my brake lines are bent and done. All I need is front brakes. I took my master cylinder/pedal bracket to the media blaster since it was a rusty old biatch. I won't bolt one rusty part back on the car. Once thats back the master goes back on and all brake lines are tight and the pedals go in.

I replaced the window regulators due to the deluxe panels. The windows roll so nice now. I also found out that new window felt/brackets from classic industries are junk. The door panels will not work with them. They are made incorrectly. I am glad I kept the originals.

I mocked up my DSE dash and drilled all the holes to make it fit nice and level.

I recieved my AAW harness this week and will start wiring soon

I also just ordered my TKO 600 today and will order all the other goodies tonight or tomorrow.
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Looking good bud! :thumbsup:

I get back to Vegas just after the first and will swing by for a look.

Car looks awesome, Ive been following the build for a while. Frank does some nice work. What are you planning on using to engage the emergency brake?

Wow Todd, lot's of progress. Looking awesome, don't those repro deluxe door panels suck the most!

I have not been checking this thread very close so I missed this. I think you may as well change the radiator now before you wet it up. I have used those and Jake is correct, your radiator does not stand a chance, especially in Vegas. I stopped selling them.

I am not trying to sell you **** you don't need, I got plenty of your money already. I have something new for you we are building with twin 13" fans pulling 3400CFM accross the entire core. That fan WILL NOT pull 3000CFM. That place is infamous for over stating the fan volume. You could try it, but once you get it wet and dirty it is a used radiator that did not work and worth less.

This is what you need. Double pass design (good for 10 to 20 degrees additional cooling), dual 13" fans, full core coverage, much better. $850 which is more then double what you paid, but $300 less the comparable units!

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Awesome looking car. Been watching the progress... Getting closer!!!

Everything is looking sweet. BTW I really like the flat of the undercarriage paint.....makes the suspension stand out. What type of coating did Frank use on that? Looks like he did the inside floors, etc with the same thing. I am getting ready to do my undercarriage and been unsure what I wanted to use.

Thanks guys....pretty sure it's 3M body shutz. Frank, since you have enough of my money..go ahead and send me one and I'll pay you with an I O U. :D

Your credit is good with me. I sold out of the 3 I had in stock, I have 3 more ready in a week or so.

Denver, that is Wurth SKS. Great product but you need one of their guns and that makes it cost prohibitive.

I'll be in touch soon. Hold off until then.

Well boys I have been kickin some ass on my hot rod. Work is suffering pretty bad right now....I need to get here on the road. haha I just can't get the bitch off my mind! Anyway, plenty of fun and adversity. I love it. Who's hiring at 150 bucks an hour??

First..pedal set up. Took a stock brake clutch set up and had my stock brackt sand blasted, epoxy primed and I painted it. Then set it up for the new pedals. I tried the stock accel setup but realized it wouldn't work for multiple reasons. I ended up using a lokar setup and modifying the brand new pedal setup for my taste.:D It was more work than it looks like. Bolt in my ass.


Ya right
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So I mocked it up and figured out the pedal height was way off anyway. I then drilled soe holes and did a little cutting and ended up with this. Nice billet black anodize with my sparco pedal that are killer. The brake pedal is just a hair off in reality. The pedals are not where they will end up.

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Next I routed my battery cables, soldered the ends, blah blah blah. Old lady helped me with the bulkhead and cross threaded the nut. Good lesson for her. With my seat brackets this is the best way. Negative cable will go through a grommet and ground to the unused bolt at the top of the bellhousing. I was really pissed about the trunk to passenger compartment insulator fit until I had cut on it multiple times and realized my car was mini tubbed. drrrrrrr
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Pleasant suprise...me and the UPS guy are getting a little to tight. I think the neighbors are talking. My Ricks Tank showed up with the notched corners. What a nice piece. Thanks for the great price and quick turn around Mr. Serafine.
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Frank....I love you like the brother in law I never wanted.:rofl: Anyway....after I figured out you put drop bushings in my car I shot the **** with everyone about it and they all said I was fuct. I measured and you were right. At least I hope so.:D I cut all the auto nut grommets off.

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Now for the real fun. Time to mock up the bellhousing, flywheel, starter, etc. Now I remember why I quit working on cars for a living. If it can go wrong it will for me. Luckily I am not getting paid so I enjoy it.

So I take the engine off the stand..pretty exciting. First thing is the pilot bearing. I pushed it in with my thumb. That's not going to work. Slightly oversize or whatever is in order tomorrow. Strike one.

Next I mocked up the starter. .006 is not enought clearance between my starter and flywheel. GM mini starter and flywheel. Thank SCAT. Strike 2
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The SFI bellhousing doesnt clear my oil pressure sensor....different fitting arrangement will fix it.....strike three

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The bellhousing is bolted on and it's time to measure the run out. Of course it's out of spec:unibrow: What would be the fun of something bolting on and not needing an hour or two of tweeking. Alcoholics anonymous where are you. :lol: Strike four...wait thats to many. The adjustable ball stud is in route. haha

Houston we have a problem
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Oh Your A Patient Man !!!
 

After Two strikes I would be tlking to myself in foul languages. Keep fighting !
How do you get more clearance on the starter ,shim it down from the block??
After I PMed you I decided to go with the Air Bar with the coil overs, thanks for the reply. Its good you can figure these little problems out , when I put mine back together I can check this thread for pointers. Keep the pictures comming.
Wayne

is that your bike jack supportin that engine lol.
damn todd ur moving on that baby...
when your ready to wiggle that pig block in give me a call or better yet when the cars ready to roll make SURE you call me!!!

I try and post as much info as possible to help others figure out issues with there builds. I know I have used the search function and saved myself some headaches. Wayne, there are two measurments on the starter. The first is flywheel to pinion nose clearance. You need to take the nose off the starter and place a shim and new thicker gasket to get it within spec. You also have a starter pinion tooth to flywheel tooth clearance which you check with a pin style feeler gauge. Mine is within spec. I hope not to mess with shims after it's assembled. I used the bike jack to help steady the engine while I was turning it over for the run out readings. I may just be giving you a call AJ. The engine will be going in no later than next weekend.

I did get the pilot bearing issue solved today. I used a center punch and made three indentations every approx 1/8 inch. It actually raises the metal slightly around the indentation. I then coated the inside of the crank snout with red loctite. The pilot bearing went in with plenty of resistance and the loctite was better safe than sorry. I remeasured the bellhousing and found the lowest and highest spot. It is .010 out of spec. I have .014 offset dowels on the way to get my quick time scattershield centered. Part of the issue is that my engine was line bored even though it was a brank new GM block. The offset dowels should get it where it needs to be. Jim and Todd over at Classic Chevy 5 speed are great guys. Highly recommend them.:thumbsup: I still need to get my crossmember modified to a two piece design. It will not go in due to the lower body mounts.

just drive down to tylers shop... im sure he has them in stock and his are some pretty trick looking crossmembers...

Thank you
Wayne

Already talked to Tyler. His are made for the T56. I am running a tko600. I thought about using his ends but they are out of stock. Probably going to have Tyler mod my current one of fabricate me a new one.:thumbsup:

How much lower are your body mounts than stock requiring you to modify your Xmember? I will be doing the same drill and trying to anticipate obstacles. I am using GW solid mounts but considering shaving one of mine down due to my frame being about 3/8 " off ( vertically) on one side.

I have the half height DSE mounts. I don't know exactly how far it drops it. Would have to measure a stock mount. You could also call DSE. I bet it's around 3/8 to 1/2 inch.

Todd it's looking killer! :thumbsup:

The lower DSE mounts are .5" lower than stock and yes they add to the fun! I had to raise the tranny tunnel .75" to clear my T56. I also noticed that a one piece trans x-member doesn't work with them either...good thing I have one of Tyler's 3-piece x-members!

I wouldn't use the lower body mounts again as it's not worth the issues they cause. I had to cut a perfectly good trans tunnel to fit the T56...not what I had in mind when I was shopping for a rust free car. Kyle did offer to swap them out for the full height but I already had the DSE SFC's installed and figured I should just cut the floor...live and learn! :)

looking good! hopefully i'll get to see it sometime.

Anthony...I am hoping to not feel that pain.:_paranoid Appreciate the kind words sick 4dr. Well me and Curtis spent a **** load of time tonight getting the bellhousing in alignment. It was setting right at .015 with the stock dowels. The best we could do with the offset dowels was .006. We found that about a inch of the bellhousing was rough enough to really sway our readings. The spec is .005 so we figure it's closer than most and basically it amounts to .0005 out of spec due to the circumfrance. So we spent 2 hours screwing with the dowels and runout and 15 minutes installing the engine. :D Gotta love it. Here she is boys. Fits nice.
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That bad boy went in Super Smooth! Hope the rest of the car goes that easy. :_paranoid

Looks sweet. Thanks for the motivation.

Whose front accessory system is that? It does not look quite like the vintage air.