Eric --

He had to rewire the shop so he could see the dial indicator.
:rofl:

That's right! I forgot about that whole deal. Light is always a welcom thing when building anything.:rofl:

It sounds like there was still a static issue with the radio.

Yes I had to rewire the shop....and all because I didn't want static on my radio. Some times it seems better to leave things well enough alone. But on the other hand, I now have 8 fluorescent lights with 16 bulbs in the shop instead of 4 single bulbs. Now I can see the dial indicator again without a flash light :thumbsup: :lol: Tomorrow I plan on running a cable coax out to the shop so I will have static free radio again.

As for an update....unfortunately there isn't one. I'm still waiting for the RobbMC dowels to arrive in the mail. Rob said they usually take about 2 weeks and it will be 2 weeks tomorrow. Hopefully as I go back to work on Tuesday and would like to get the scattershield done next week.

With the Autokraft pan...I left the stock windage tray on there. I sent Andrewb70 a message about that as he's done the L92 swap and he told me to keep the stock one in there. The pan and pickup fit quite nicely with the stock tray still there.

Thanks again guys for your help with the advice on the RFI filter and the wiring issues. I really appreciate it.

I'm leaning towards using the Vintage Air Frontrunner kit http://www.vintageair.com/ls.asp For the price, it seems to be the most complete kit. It includes an ATI balancer which I don't believe most kits do and I like the way the air conditioning lines come out of the pump. Mast Motorsports has some L92 billet spacers that allow you to use any serpentine kit with the VVT. I emailed them and made sure they would allow me to use the VA kit. They're not too badly priced either at $200 and they allow you to keep the VVT. Here's a link to them: http://www.mastmotorsports.com/page....essories&id=28

Thanks Mike. I hope your parts show soon. I want to see it all together almost as bad as you do.:D
Glad to hear the lighting all worked out.

I posted in the other thread regarding the oil pan question. It was GM Muscle asking about that pan on a 6.0L swap.:cheers:

any issues with your autokraft pan and the block plate from the bellhousing? my mcleod hits it, and i havent found a thread on what the best solution is.

Tim

I just got off the phone with USPS to see where the stuff is...they weren't much help at all. She said first class priority international can take a week. When I told her it's been two weeks, she said that's perfectly normal and I should just keep waiting. Guess I'll just keep waiting :mad:

Hey Tim...no issues with mine that I noticed. Is your block plate hitting the oil pan when you put it on??? I didn't notice, but I don't think mine is hitting. I wonder if you could grind the rear edge of the oil pan to clear it.

First they say it can take a week and then right after that say it's normal for two weeks? Sounds like a good answer instead of just saying "I don't know, I'll look into it". Gotta love the support huh? :lol:

Well I hope they get there soon for you. How is the rest of the project doing?

And the funny thing is she kept saying "I'd be happy to help you" throughout the conversation. Oh well...hopefully in the next couple days.

Haven't done anything else on the car. With my 4 on 4 off schedule, I usually go a month when most of my days off are during the week and the wife is at work. I spend most of my time in the shop then. During the other month when I'm off during the weekends, I might get a bit of time in the shop, but not much. I hope to get the scattershield done next Monday/Tuesday and then measure the throw out bearing in the clutch to make sure I don't need any shims. Next will be to drop the motor/tranny in. Can't wait.

Mike -

Don't pound those pins in until you've got the bellhousing sorted out - and then watch how you tighten up the thing - it will change on you! And typically there will be one or two bolts that pull it off center -- once you identify those - tighten the others first and leave those for last...

If you sink the dowels all the way home - they're too hard to turn and they should also have a dab of anti seize applied - once you gal the aluminum - there's no way you're going to turn them again "nicely".

Today was a good day. I got the new RobbMC dowels on Monday and really wanted to take another shot at getting the scatter shield dialed in so thought I would try it today. If you wondering what the big deal is about the RobbMC dowels, there is a huge difference between them and the Lakewood ones. You'll see in the pics. I was able to get it dialed in....and on the first try I got it to 0.0035" :D :D :D :D As the minimum recommended is 0.005", I wasn't going to play around with it any more. Onto the pics.

The new RobbMC dowels. They are .021. You can vaguely see a flat spot on the top of them. That is so you can use a 9/16 open end wrench to turn them while in the block instead of a flat screw driver which does not work.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00425.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00486.jpg

Here's the two side by side. Huge difference

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00525.jpg

Here's the old one's sticking through the scatter shield. No wonder they got chewed up

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00496.jpg

And the new ones

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00534.jpg

Now that I ground down the sides if the magnetic base for the dial indicator, it sat on the flywheel completely flat and there was no movement. A huge must for doing this.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00545.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00555.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00566.jpg

Now that the dial indicator was in place, it was time to get my readings. This time I decided to get only the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock readings. Last time I was writing them down on pieces of paper and trying to remember which was which or I had a bunch of pieces of paper going with a ton of diagrams. Here's a very easy way to keep track of your measurements. Get a dry erase marker and write it on the face. When you need to repeat, wipe off the marks and start over. Here's my readings.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00627.jpg

With these readings I was so happy. I tightened the screws in the dowels and set them in place.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00582.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00576.jpg

Not sure if I'll get it done today or not, but I plan on doing a new thread showing how to dial in the scatter shield will a bunch of pics.

Now that that was done...it was time to measure the clutch.

I didn't take a bunch of pics of this process as I know there are quite a few threads out there, but here's the engine with the Monster on

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00675.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00685.jpg

I took the measurements and found the following: The difference between the end of the clutch fingers and the face of the scatter shield was 3 1/8". The difference between the face of the trans and the top of the throwout bearing when it was fully compressed was 2 3/8" giving me a difference of 3/4". According to the instructions from Keisler, the ideal difference would be 1/4", so it looks like I need 1/2" shims. I've pm'd Shafi at Keisler as I'm not sure if these are shims or not. They were included in the kit. They seem to be shims, but have no threaded holes to mount the throwout bearings. Anyone know if these are shims as they are 1/2" thick together, and that's exactly what I need.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00694.jpg

Mike, is that the wrong picture of your final readings on the bellhousing?

No it's the right one...but after I posted this, I started thinking. I think I do need to keep adjusting as I'm not close enough yet.

I spent a couple hours in the shop yesterday and today. I finally got the damn scatter shield dialed in to within specs. It's at 0.005" both ways so I am happy with that. Here's my readings for the final time.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...PICT000110.jpg

Once that was done, I had to swap the bearing plate or whatever it's called from the one that came with the tranny for a mechanical clutch set up for the new hydraulic set up.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00635.jpg

With it off

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00656.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00666.jpg

When you're putting the new one on, you have to be careful as there's a shim behind it that has to go back into place

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00714.jpg

New plate on

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00754.jpg

I had already done this step and knew I needed to use the two 1/4" shims, but I thought I'd post a pic of how you measure it. I've explained on the previous page what you need to measure.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00724.jpg

Shims going on

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00734.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00774.jpg

Once the shims were, bolted on the hydraulic throwout bearing

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00813.jpg

And then the scatter shield

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...PICT000710.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00873.jpg

Then I had to install the pilot bearing. I read on one of the forums to freeze the bearing over night, so that's what I did. It went in pretty easy.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00883.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00067.jpg

The Monster is back on...this time for good!!!

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00088.jpg

And finally....the two have mated :D

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...PICT001010.jpg

I debated about pulling the subframe and dropping it in today, but instead I thought I would run cable coax to the shop while the ground was still soft enough to do it. Next week I will drop the motor/trans in.

Nice progress, and a good write up very interesting.

Thanks Wayne.

If anyone wants to read a thread I made on how to dial in bellhousings/scattershields, the way I did it, I made one that shows the process from start to finish. Here's the link: https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=23913

I got the motor and transmission onto the subframe today. I thought the subframe was back on the car for good, but it was so much easier to put the motor/trans in when it's out...especially when you're doing it by yourself. The one thing everyone should get to make the job easier..is an engine leveler, something like this one: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80048/10002/-1
I didn't get the subframe bolted back to the car yet as I need to get some touch up paint for the scattershield and I have a new shifter coming that I may need to modify the shifter hole for.

Onto the pics:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...PICT000111.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...PICT000311.jpg

I really wanted to see how the FAST intake would look so I put it in place. It's going to look so sweet with that red.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00068.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00089.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...PICT001510.jpg

One question for you guys though who have the Autokraft oil pan, what do I need to get for here? I just put the stock one on for now to keep crap out.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT00127.jpg

That sure looks sweet in there. Nice job.

Looks great Mike!

Nice job Mike -- and good picture story etc.... that takes a lot of work all in itself!

Thanks for the compliments guys. It's what keeps me motivated.

Not a bug update...but got some new parts.

Tremec's new shifter. Thanks Gene!!! According to Gene: The new Tremec shifter is lower profile and has spring biasing adjustment. It also make provisions for the 2-3 shift. Like he also said...since I have never used my shifter yet, I won't know the difference, but I'm taking his word on it.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000130.jpg

I also decided to get the new Speed Tech body mounts. I had the original silver ones and got them before Killer Customs bought the company. I thought I would go with the black anodized ones instead. Thanks Roger!!!

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000131.jpg

It's nice for dummies like me, they have put 1, 2 or 3 lines in them to tell where they go.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000132.jpg

If I don't spend a couple hours in the shop tomorrow, likely won't be until the new year. That's okay as last week we were down to -20 Celsius so was getting a bit cold.

Get your butt out there! The cold temps will make those body mounts slip right into place!! Kinda like putting a bearing in the freezer! LOL

Oh man!

brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr......

We've had a cold snap for the past few weeks and with Christmas and New Years I really haven't had a chance to get into the shop at all. With reading about all the guys that are having to sell their projects, I knew I had to get into the shop today even if it was for a couple hours. Fired up a couple 220 heaters and got the shop to about 10 or 12 C or about 50 F. Got to spend a couple hours out there, not a major update but an update none the less.

I started by changing the old Tremec shifter to the new improved one

The old one

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000213.jpg

I'll admit I didn't know what to expect when I took the shifter off. I had no clue how it attached. Pretty simple set up, especially to swap the shifter from front to back.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000219.jpg

Before I put the new on one, I thought I would take some side by side shots to show the differences. The one on the right is the new improved one. You can the screws which allow you to make adjustments on the new shifter.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000216.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000215.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000217.jpg

And the new shifter is on the tranny.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000220.jpg

I know some guys were debating if after market aluminum mounts needed the factory shims when putting into a Nova. Speedtech has assured me they don't require the shims and here's why. The one on the left is the firewall mount and is higher than the back one to make up for the shims.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000221.jpg

And finally the subframe is attached to the body for good :D It still needs to be aligned, but I had to put it on the ground to see how it looks. Aligning it by myself should be fun :(

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000222.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000225.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000232.jpg

Lots of room to spare

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000224.jpg

And my secret weapon. Two L92's :drive:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000226.jpg

I had to cut the shifter hole a bit to adjust for the changing it around. I still need to trim a bit more to make it more even all around. I plan on making a cover to fit over the hole. Do any of you think it would be an issue making a cover and putting some seam sealer underneath and using rivets to secure it down to the floor. I want to be able to just drill out the rivets if I ever need to access the shifter.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000230.jpg

Looking good Mike. On that shifter cover, do you think having it bolted somehow might be easier instead of riveted on? Not that service will be too often , but you never know.:cheers:

Thanks Eric. I thought about bolting it on, but then it's accessing the nuts from the top. I agree it will not be very often that I need to access the shifter, that's why I thought using rivets might work. Don't have to worry about them rattling loose and can just drill them out when needed and re-rivet to secure again.

Nice updates....I think you have the shifter on backwards for our application. Meaning your reach will be affected. Mine has the shifter in the back hole. Reach is perfect, of course it's a camaro.

What about some other kind of quick release body clips(Dezus sp?). I can just see there being a need at some point and looking back saying "should have listened to Eric" is going to suck.....:D

Thanks Todd. Actually it was originally the other way. Keisler recommended changing it. They said with mine this way it will move it forward and put it in more of a natural location for shifter. The one nice thing with the hole that is left for access, if I don't like it where it is, I can always switch it back (unless of course I don't account for that when I build the console)

I guess I could use some small bolts with u nuts attached to the sheet metal. Something like these. They are used on other parts of the car. http://autobodyclips.com/product_inf...ducts_id=10055

Coming right along.

The removable tunnel discussion came up a lot on the FFR related forums because of the same issue. There is a rivnut type deal you might want to look into. If I remember correctly it is like a nut that you rivet into the panel. Using nuts/bolts would be better than plain rivits IMHO but getting to the nuts is a pain after the fact. The riv nut makes that blind nut not such a big deal.

John

Nice update . How about some rivnuts like the ones they hold the console in the Camaro's.

Just had someone else comment about the shifter location. He also has a 68 Nova and has it in the stock location (the way it was originally). He mentioned that he tried it this way and it didn't feel as good so I may end up changing it back. Good thing I made the hole big enough to access it.

Thanks John. I'll look into that.

Thanks Wayne. I was just looking at www.rivetnuts.com I think you guys are right...those look like they will do the job nicely. Thanks for the heads up on those.

Rivnuts are simple and effective... easy to use too...

Neat update -- glad something fired you up and got you out there bangin' up your knuckles!

LOL

We use rivnuts on B-1's just be carefuly and amke sure you "lube" the thread graphite works best IMO:thumbsup:

Awesome Project - just read the entire thread

Anything New? I need my fix.

Thanks Marty.

Here's the update Wayne.

I finally had a couple hours this morning to go play in the shop. My step daughter started a new school this semester and hasn't made any new friends yet so I have been taking her out for lunch on my days off. It's amazing how that interferes with my shop time :devil:

I borrowed this idea from Billy's (72novadriver) car. http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k.../gascapweb.jpg I love the way it look so thought I would do the same thing to mine. Billy made his insert, but I cheated. I found someone who was willing to cut out the filler cap portion of a tail panel from a 67 Camaro.

Bought a filler cap from Chassis Works. Beautiful piece. Not cheap though. I know there are cheaper ones out there, but I decided to go with this one.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000270.jpg

Panel from the Camaro

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000269.jpg

Cut it down to a better size

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000275.jpg

There's a bit of a contour to these, so I had to finesse it a bit

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000272.jpg

Had to clean up the area where I was going to weld it into place

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000274.jpg

I had to find centre and start cutting

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000276.jpg

Temporarily in place

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000278.jpg

Welded into place and the filler cap is in place for a test fit. It's missing the gasket in behind so will stick out a little farther. I might make a thicker gasket so it is a little more flush with the tail panel.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000281.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000282.jpg

Now I have to modify the trunk to fit the filler neck.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000283.jpg

Hopefully I'll get out to the shop again in the morning and finish up the welding and start fitting the filler neck. What do you guys think??

That looks awesome so far. I robbed your idea and got a piece from another member on here willing to do the same thing for me :thumbsup: . I just got it yesterday. Thanks for the idea, update, and the pictures :cheers:

It looks great, and nice idea to use the piece of tail panel.