Congrats Nathan!!:cheers:

The last time I saw the car outside was when we hauled it over.

I can't wait to see it runnning in person.

Thanks! Eric, it's been so long I barely remember that! Can't wait to solve the cooling issue and get some mufflers on it.

Mufflers.......dont need no stinkin mufflers.......:D

Nice fiery fuel pump and sweet car. It's nice when you replace a part and can see why it failed. A smoking gun...

Thanks!

New thermostat arrived in the mail today. Tested it and it passed with flying colors opening at an indicated 190ish degrees on the Taylor multiple meat thermometer. I was in such a rush, I forgot the camera and before you knew it, the old one was off and the new one was installed. Spilled barely a drop of coolant (ok...a lot of coolant) into a freshly cleaned bucket, was filtered and replaced. Yes, I admit to doing that, reusing coolant...brand new ran for 10 minutes coolant. Anyway, on to the fun!

I took the old one and wanted to verify it was indeed the cause to my troubles.

How to Cook a Thermostat

1. Place in pot of hot water, turn heating element to 11. (If yours only goes to 10, then just remark 10 to read 11...) Since this is a scientific test and accuracy is key, steal you wife's cooking thermometer, they are actually surprisingly accurate. Tape it, vise grip it or whatever to the pot. (keep a lookout for the wife...she might not like this activity)

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1298345_n.jpg

2. Cook until an indicated 190-200 degrees depending on your thermostat's rating. Of course, some of you in those stupid hot states might have one that opens at 160...you can figure out when to stop cooking and check to see if it's done. I let mine go to 200 (197 is the rating on it) and removed to check. Yes, I know it looks much higher than 200...that's the angle of the picture, it was 200, trust me. Not that it would have mattered.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6768125_n.jpg

3. Check to see if it opened!

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6994592_n.jpg

Ruh-roh.
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._7015446_n.jpg

4. Repeat if necessary. I let mine go until I saw movement in the element. 230-250ish degrees...not sure how accurate this thing is off the chart.
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...3_931635_n.jpg

Finally.
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6391778_n.jpg

The car went to from 190 to 240 degrees indicated very quickly before I shut down last weekend without any coolant flow. Now I know why.

On Sunday I should be able to install my mechanical fuel pressure gauge and set the correct fuel pressure. Then some more coolant to top things off and find out if the cooling system actually works now!

No video yet since the videographer was away again today. Installed the mechanical fuel pressure gauge, set the PSI at 7lbs (or near there). Added another half gallon of coolant and fired it up. Backed it into the driveway as stuff was falling off the shelves in the garage...damn this thing is loud and thumps hard. Went up to 200...cooling hoses got warm finally. Temp dropped briefly. Good, coolant is circulating. Got up almost to 210 and the fan turned on. Dropped temp to about 200 again and fan turned off. It's all working perfectly. Idled for about 20 minutes without overheating. I think it's ready to be tagged and go for a drive to get mufflers.

Video WILL be coming, I promise.

I want to hear it without the mfflers......at 6000 rpm.:D

Bring your gun to fend off my neighbors!

Actually, idle alone is fairly impressive with the cam that's in it.

Good on ya, for checking the thermostat. I've had brand new ones (a good ol Robertshaw, and one Napa) fail on me twice, and now I always test them out beforehand.

Problem: My 2000 Camaro SS overheated this weekend and ate it's LS1. No oil pressure.... :(

Solution: Make my 1970 Camaro my daily driver again until I can replace the 2000 Camaro's motor (LY6 maybe?)

Problem: My 1970 looks kind of like this:

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...9_254734_n.jpg

There is no money for a new hood....

Solution: Best redneck repair I've ever done...I hope. Involves duct tape, epoxy, and rustolium. It should get me through the summer.

Also needed: Exhaust, registration and insurance. Will be taken care of Thursday. By Monday I should be taking it to work every day...

Ill call you tomorrow evening on that hood solution.

Changed the oil in the 2000...fired up....pressure was a bit wavy for a bit...then it was strong and normal. Slight....very...very slight ticking noise. I'll change the pump and stat and fix the overflow hose and see what happens. 1970 got it's steering wheel straightened, wires and terminals covered, and the redneck repair of the hood is drying and will be painted tomorrow. Have a line on another 2" cowl for next to nothing that I might grab.

Hood delivery sunday. Hope it clears everything!:cheers:

And that is why car guys are awesome. Still going to finish the redneck hood. Need it for the trip to the muffler shop on Thursday anyway.

This update contains 200% more video.

Got the Camaro off to the exhaust shop today. Made it 7 miles or so without any major issues. Only big squawk is a coolant leak from the heater hose at the waterpump. Went between 200 and 205 degrees most of the time. Almost got to 210 at one point. Not bad for an 80 degree day. Steering wheel still isn't very straight and is really loose on center. But I was expecting that from a used box. Going to have to get used to the manual steering, it's not too bad though. Like to try to make multiple lane changes when I only want one... Brakes are a bit soft, I will have to flush the lines and bleed them later. And find and fix the coolant leak. And I should have a replacement hood coming.

You have to love the backyard repair I did to the hood. Can't see it very well in the videos. Actually doesn't look half bad from far away. A little duct tape, some epoxy and the high temp rustolium.

Also, what do you do if your exhaust system you need to have modified won't fit in your car? Redneck it to the top of your car of course!

Videos as promised.

http://youtu.be/TcU2u8vhAsU

http://youtu.be/TRdqwI_wJhs

Oh, and this was WAY too fun for words! Drove it really gentle since this was the first time on a long distance drive...but I can tell it will move out when I'm ready to give it a go!

Its ALIVE! MOVING,UNDER ITS OWN POWER ON PUBIC ROADS! :thumbsup:

That wasn't too loud...Congrats! :thumbsup:

Made it home after one problem after another on the drive home. Car started missing and chugging while climbing a hill then died on the way down. Found zero fuel pressure when I pulled over. Wracked my brain to try and figure it out. Did my brand new pump take a dump on me?

Had my sister in law come pick me up and I grabbed my tools (should have had the damn things with me) and my 5 gallon fuel can. Figured I would be smart and try putting more fuel in before I went messing with anything else. Well, I'm absolutely shocked that with some actual fuel in the tank the fuel pressure came back...imagine that. Car fired and ran just fine. That's when the 2nd problem occurred.

Earlier, the vent petcock had come loose and allowed coolant to spew all over the place. I tightened it, checked the radiator level and figured I was good. Nope, thermostat opened and emptied the radiator into the block. Temp went above 210, I pulled over and shut down. Sis-in-law once again took me back to my house and I grabbed some more coolant and returned to the car. Filled it up, let in idle for a heat cycle and viola...car is fine.

So, now it is home in the garage and I'm a bit wary of it, but it sounds great, has more power than I was expecting and all the kinks should work themselves out over time.

Video
http://youtu.be/9qzpsv5MFgQ

Sounds great. Now we need pictures with the hood on. Just keep driving the car a little further from home each time and work out all of the small bugs. Before you know it you will be driving any distance and the only thing you will be worrying about is the gas money.:lol:

Sorry to hear about the problems. How does that hood I brought over fit?

I should find out tonight when I finally get home from work!

(by the way, that was me calling for help yesterday, in case you were wondering!)

Oh **** buddy! I am sorry I missed your call. I was out in Stanwood all day and didn't see you called until about 8pm. I would have come out to help had I known.

I know you would have! It was ok anyway, my sister in law was closer.

Fixed a few various leaks today. Tuned the carb just a wee bit more and went for a really, really fun drive. BTW, 7,000rpm comes really quick in 1st gear!

Perhaps a bit of an extended cruise will happen tomorrow and then a drive to Bellingham on Friday. The new hood will have to wait until later...redneck hood is working in the meantime.

Took the car out for a test drive today. Adjusted the idle and put 3/4 of a tank in it and drove it to the waterfront in Mukilteo, WA. Ran well, was responsive and didn't stumble much, so the carb was close. Chugged a bit in 4th gear with the lockup anywhere close to or below 60mph. On the downhill run to the waterfront, a long 2 or 3 mile steep grade where you're essentially coasting, the car started stumbling a bit. Then when I got to the parking lot the idle went to crap and hunted and the car wanted to die. Jumped out and checked everything and it physically seemed fine, so I tried to adjust the carb by ear and messed it up worse.

Took some pictures in a hurry and didn't do my normal good job...but I was too busy thinking about trying to get home. I headed up the hill as quick as possible because at high RPM, the trouble went away. Almost got back to the freeway and I heard an odd sound, like something metalic being tossed from the car. Then, my belt started squealing and the temp started rising. Pulled into a church parking lot (2nd church in two days!) to find out what was wrong.

I almost missed it, but there it was...the supporting bolt on the alternator snapped off in the head. The sound I heard was the spacer going bye-bye. So, there I am, miles from home, a snapped bolt in my head...how the hell do I rig this back up to get me home? I just tucked the support rod under the alternator and wedged it against the main bracket. Worked like a charm..and the car starting running fine again, except for the fact I messed with the idle screws too much.

Started limping it home, and wouldn't you know it, but at the next light some kid in a Honda Civic pulled up next to me. It was the wrong place, wrong time and the roads were wet from a nearby sprinkler system. No way was I going to race him. After we made a left turn (both lanes turn left) he floored it and moved off ever so slowly. Then, a 2003ish Mustang went ripping by from behind and blew past him. Meanwhile, I'm just chugging along hoping my belt won't fly off. Around the next corner, what do I see? The Honda pulled over, oil everywhere, smoke pouring from under the hood and the acrid smell of what I think was burned clutch. Well, I guess that sucks to break when you're racing nobody. On the street. In a dangerous area. Kinda dumb.

So, here are some pictures from tonight.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3513516_n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._8371272_n.jpg

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...2_542742_n.jpg

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6102911_n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4631319_n.jpg

And the broken alternator support. I think the angle was too sharp and I should have connected the support close to the head with a stronger bolt.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3985116_n.jpg

Stupid bolt.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._7507387_n.jpg

Fixed the alternator mount and re-tuned the carb. Took it for it's longest drive yet, about 20 miles of mixed freeway and street driving. Both the car and the wife survived the trip. Seems to like idling at ~900rpm in gear, but it idles rich and I can't seem to lean it out much without killing the idle altogether. Part throttle cruise sucks below 2000rpm unless I'm in 4th gear and locked up. There's a bit of a flat spot/hesitation when transitioning out of idle or cruise. WOT works wonderfully...but I suspect I can lean it all out a bit. More tuning to come...along with a lot more driving.

Drove it about 100 miles round trip with a couple of full throttle runs to scare the hell out of my parents when I took them for a ride this weekend. Did maybe 16mpg, still running very rich at idle/cruise. Seems to cruise well at 3200rpm (just shy of 100mph) in 4th gear. Hope to get this thing on the track once before the summer is over...running out of time!

Nice project looks like you know what you want. I do have a question why ls6 heads and not the l92?

The heads are CnC ported and flow close to the same as stock L92(if not slightly better) with a smaller port size and valves. And a smaller combustion chamber (milled down to an even smaller size) for a much needed boost in compression ratio. I was also able to run a much larger cam without having any piston to valve clearance issues some guys with L92 heads run into. The biggest thing was they were actually cheaper than a new L92 setup.

Looks like you've got as great project going, Nathan. As for your running rich problem. I may have a couple of suggestions. First, make sure your power valve doesn't have a blown diaphragm( unless it's been blocked off), then put a vacuum guage on the engine so you can drive it at the rpm range when it runs poorly. Make sure the PV is of a low enough vacuum rating that it isn't opening at part throttle and flooding the engine. I. E.: IF off idle vacuum is 10 inches, try a power valve that's 5-6 inches to keep it from opening too soon, or even a smaller number PV if it's still running rich and stumbling

Next, what are you running for jets front and rear? You may want to try front jets that are 2-4 numbers less than the rears to start to help the part throttle driveability.

Accelerator pump cams and discharge nozzles are a whole 'nuther thing that affect hesitation during throttle transitions.

Good Luck.

Ric

Burnout of the redneck machine. Got caught up trying to keep her straight and shifted to 2nd when my shift light reminded me I was being dumb. (6,500rpm). Shifted to 3rd, hit the brakes. The sound you hear at the end is the serpentine belt slipping when the engine decelerates. Kind of worried about getting caught in the area, so I kept it short and didn't do a full brake stand.

http://youtu.be/_JYqEPle7Ss

Nice. I recognize that spot. I hope security was on break. Lol!

Im really glad you are getting to finally enjoy the car. It's been way too long since you had it truly out on the road as a driver. Very cool.:cheers:

gOOd job!!! congrats!!!! :thumbsup:

Yeah!!! One more on the road!!!!

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Lead.

Ever since getting my build running, I've been having trouble with it being rich everywhere...at idle...at WOT...at cruise. I tuned with screws as best as I can to no avail. Finally, I decided to go back into the carb and see what's going on. Turns out the jets I was running were 76 primary and 85 secondary! Holy cow. I screwed this carb together almost two years ago and I don't know what I was thinking there. So, out the went and now I have 72 primary and 78 secondary. Also checked the squirter size while I was at it and I had 31's. Moved up to 35s and the part throttle hesitation I've been having went away, but the WOT tip in from idle still has a bit of a lurch in it.

The sun was setting so I didn't have time to redo the idle and mixture, they weren't far off when I fired it up. Took it for a run up and down a nearby 4 lane. Man, does this thing rip now. First gear is close to useless (have to peddle it), second gear gets loose, but the feeling of the horsepower pulling past 6,000rpm to 7,000rpm is incredible.

Now to go about fixing that stupid belt squeal. Probably going to delete the tensioner and use the alternator rod from my custom setup.

Just got back. Only had two runs. I figure my race weight was 3650 or more. I'm a heavy dude at 350lbs, although I was 430lbs 5 months ago!

#1

Tires at 22lbs, easy launch, shifts at 6,500rpm (maiden voyage)
R/T - .428 (it's been 8 years, ok!)
60 - 1.892 (launched easy and peddled it because the tires hooked and it actually scared me a litte, used to a bit of spin)
330 - 5.353
1/8 - 8.140
MPH - 88.47
1000 - 10.554
1/4 - 12.590
MPH - 111

Expected a little bit more, but what can you ask for on the first trip? Nothing broke!

#2
Tires at 20lbs, footbraked, shifts set to 7,000rpm

Well, I pushed through the lights on the first yellow....no timing. However, the damn thing hooked well and the shifts at 7,000rpm really helped. Then there were sparks shooting out of the cowl from under the hood. They came from the direction of the alternator. Lifted at the 60'.

Things to fix - the accessories. Lots of flex, lots of slack in the belt and I think the sparks were from the alt pulley spinning on the shaft at 7,000rpm. Also, the car must go on a diet. Will work on that this summer. And the car needs more time being tuned. I am happy with 111 mph on an easy pass though. There's always that blue bottle in the trunk too...

I found out where the sparks were coming from. I took the belt off and checked the tensioner, water pump and alternator pulleys. Waterpump and tensior spun like they should. The alternator would spin over 1/2 of the way and then hit something and slow down...it would even come to a stop sometimes. Appears as though the shaft is bent, or a bearing has gone bad letting it bind at a specific point during rotation. It must have been getting awful hot near the end of the run causing material to spit all over the engine compartment. Funny thing, it was still putting out voltage! Wonder how much power that thing was robbing...

I think I might scrap my whole alternator setup and go with a Katech tensioner and a Kwik Performance alternator bracket. I will obviously need a new alternator too. However, looks like the season is over up here in Washington, so I won't have new times until next spring.

In addition to fixing the accessories, my winter weight loss and performance plan is this:
1. Lighter rear spring - looks to be nothing but expensive options
2. Replace power window/power lock doors with gutted doors and lexan windows - lots of work, cheap to do
3. Remove all interior except for driver's seat, replace with budget racing seat - free + cost of new seat
4. Remove front sway bar - free (will sell, its a nice thick Hellawig piece)
5. Aluminum wheels (pizza cutters up front) if the budget allows

This an a change from 3.73 gears to 4.56 gears should make the car just a bit quicker.

congrats on the progress Nathan.

Thanks!

Took the alternator apart to have a look-see. Took the pulley off halfway expecting it to be the cause of the friction. Nope, it still hung up every 180 degrees. So, I opened the case and found this:

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...37929567_n.jpg

Rotor is worn down badly and heat burned. Bad news.

Then there was this:
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...23053164_n.jpg

Going out on a limb here, but I think that is not supposed to look like that...

And as I suspected, the pulley spun a little bit due to the alternator not wanting to:

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...27371297_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...47724537_n.jpg

Anyway, like I said, I'm not 100% happy with the alternator setup anyway, so I'm going a different direction when I get around to replacing this.

Not sure what I'm doing here....

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...93431419_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...07353791_n.jpg

Oh, that's right...I'm stripping out the old ratty interior. Not going to put it back in either. This is step one of the diet the Camaro is getting this winter. It's going to get a little extreme.

Here is a box-o-interior parts. Not much in there is salvageable, but I will sort it out later.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...17590864_n.jpg

Oh yeah, yanked this sucker out too.
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...50116846_n.jpg

I will be weighing everything I take out and everything I put back in.

The plan:
Steel wheels to aluminum (prostars maybe...3.5" front, 8" rear)
doors from power lock/window to manual with crash beam removed
door glass to lexan
door panels remove
Windshield to lexan...maybe
Rear window to lexan
fiberglass trunk replace stock
Passenger seat remove
Drivers seat to race seat
Rear Seats remove
Front sway bar remove
Complete wiper assy remove...maybe
Radio and speakers remove
Charcoal Canister remove
Carpet remove
5-Leaf Springs to split monos