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The guage panel is a pretty cool touch. nice!
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I like it too. It should be sweet!
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Thanks for all the kind words guys. Wiring is not my strong suit and sometimes I step back and look and become overwhelmed at the wiring as a whole. Me and the old man have been tackling it one piece at a time, man it is a lot. I just keep thinking of the time Ill finally get to turn the key.. Last weekend me and the old man got my brother and 3 other guys to come over to really tackle this thing. The good news is that the front headlight harness, the vaporworx harness (w/ the exception of the power feed wire), and the engine/ecu wiring is done (w/ the exception of the 6-7 leads inside, power to the fuel pump, alternator power wire, and a couple sensor that need to be addressed). What is left is what was mentioned above, the Mad electrical stuff, and the AAW engine side of the firewall, finish the battery hook up, wiring to the starter, and finish some dash wiring. So still plenty left..but we are getting there. I’m trying to do it once the correct way instead of rushing and having to go back.
In other news Timmy is making progress on the gauge cluster and has to come back over for one last fit before he can put his final touches on it. It’s coming out great and I'm glad this is the route that we went. I got 4 small led lights from classic dash to have them wired into the stock dash cluster for turn signals, high beams, and brakes or check engine light so that will be soon. Now that the fuel stuff is all wired I plan on having Timmy also make a small panel to hold the pump, fuse..ect. It will be located right near the battery. Onto some pictures from the past 2 weeks. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/8df3aa7e.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/b3d64516.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/3c56d800.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/7e5b0a61.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/256566b3.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/00effc2c.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/63e8d49e.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/79f3caa0.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/3f92206f.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/74dd3fc1.jpg and the future car owner testing out his seat... http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/104aac4c.jpg |
Looking good!!!
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Looks like the little guys is practicing holding on for dear life :D Keep up the great work! :thumbsup:
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Thanks guys...:thumbsup:
So last night I took off from working on the car to spend some time with the family. I brought home a little clean project to work on while watching TV before bed. I’m still figuring out how I want the coils /spark plug wires to run. Id really like them to run under the headers and mount the coils to the frame in front of the motor out of sight. With that being said I know that heat is going to be the biggest problem. I bought some DEI heat shield for the wires that is rated to 500 degrees. I also have the end boots that are rated to over 1200 degrees. Between the two I think they should be fine... So I took apart the wires and ran the DEI sleeves over each one. Here are some pictures.. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/86ee7fa5.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/395db9fa.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/899a7460.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/eeb494f5.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/7a476276.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/06f52b6d.jpg |
They look good. I was thinking of the boots for the ends. Nice job.
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Thanks man, Yea they came out really nice. Hopefully I can tuck them under the headers nicely without and problems. Well see..:thumbsup:
Got over to the car this weekend for a bit while the baby was napping. Still plugging away at the wiring. Not to much left really. Have to finish the wiring for the tach and water gauge , the 6-7 wires for the ecu, run the power for the fuel pump, put in two more main grounds, wire up the radiator/fans, run a power from the alternator to the main power connection, and run a power for the interior wiring to the main power connection. Actually looking at it wrote out it is enough. Soon enough. Mike and I ran the main power block to the drivers fender so I can get to it but it's out of the way enough that there should be no problems with anything else coming in contact with it. Extended the main power wire for the ecu to that and put the fuseable links in, also finished running the main power wire from the battery to it. Today I had some time so I drilled a hole in the floorboard for the pass thru connector. Mounted that and cut the main 1 gauge to size and finished crimping the ends. Also made the main wire to go from the connector on the engine bay side to the starter. In other news the radiator has been ordered and should be here soon. Also ordered a maf sensor so that should wrap up the ecu potion of wiring. On Saturday the brake lines came in from inline tube. Seems like a really nice kit. Ordered all stainless and when I opened it I was scratching my head a bit as there was 8 lines. I though there was 7 lines for the brakes. Two smalll lines off the master to a distribution block right under the master cylinder. From the distribution block three lines come off that, one to the front right, one to the front left, and one long one to the rear that stops right before the rear axles which goes to a soft line. From the soft line to a "T" mounted on the rear axle which connects to a rear left and rear right line. 7 total. Anyone wanna guide me or tell me what I'm missing? Onto the pictures... http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/b2568599.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/78800584.jpg |
So it’s been a long couple of nights. I ordered and received the map sensor for the motor to complete the engine side of the wiring other than the coil packs. The port on the sensor was to big so I had to drill the hole on the intake to 15/32 and it fits good now. Just have to extend the wiring for the plug.
The brake lines have showed up from inline and I needed a couple more fittings so I’m waiting on the "T" that goes on the rear axle and the hold down clips for the frame. Then I will run the lines and bleed the system. Also waiting on the radiator to show up which should be soon. To complete the motor side of things I've started to piece together the intake with what I'll need and that will be ordered soon. Other than that just have to figure out what I’m going to do for exhaust. I really wanted to have side pipes, 3" ovals is what I was thinking but due to lack of room, expense I may just run dumps before the rear. We’ll see. The main power source on the drivers firewall is complete. All main power wires have been ran and tightened. I need to finish up the gauge wiring, couple wires on the ecu, run relays for the headlights & fans when they get here and some miscellaneous stuff and that should be the rest of the wiring. I’ll be glad when that day is. Not too much longer before the car actually is able to fire. Timmy came over last night as I really wanted to try to crank the car and check for leaks and make sure I had oil pressure. The main thing that still needed to be done was the main ground straps needed to be hooked up. One for each side of the frame to body, and one from the engine to frame, one in the rear for the main battery hook up, and a small one under the dash for ecu, gauges..ect. Instead of drilling and using bolts on everything I had him bring the welder and he welded the bolts right to the body/frame. This way there is one less thing to come loose and it’s a much better connection. While he did that I finished up the wiring for the starter and did the temporary wiring for the oil pressure gauge to see what was going on. After all the grounds where hooked up we gave it a go and everything went well, other than a small oil leak at the adapter that screws into the intake. I need to take it off clean it off and put some teflon tape on any pipe treads. It was a relief to finally here it turn over and confirm that the wiring so far is correct. Now it’s time to get the rest of the stuff buttoned up so I can actually fire it. Once I fire it up Ill only let it run for 30-60 seconds as it has to be broken in. I talked to my chevy dealership that I bought the motor off of and he said if I take the car to a certified mechanic and have them go over it and break the motor in I can gain back all the warranty that I have lost while the motor was sitting. So that’s what I'm going to do. I talked to a shop called Injection connection and they are going to go over the whole car once complete, break the motor in per the GM instructions, change the oil and strap her to the dyno. I want to start the car to check for leaks, make sure everything is working so I’m not paying shop rate because I have a leak in a fuel line..ect. Anyway here is a quick video and some pictures from the past few days. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/13476ff3.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/8a8d4f9e.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/cfb6235e.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/9774c31d.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/fab6cf8e.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/27ff6044.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/268ee69f.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/d4d8f4b2.jpg http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...t=d3205b82.mp4 |
Nice :thumbsup: Are you going to have a junction block to hook the battery positive terminal, starter and the alternator hot wire? if so could you please post a photo of it where it is going to be mounted?
The reason why I am asking is that I have the battery mounted in the trunk like yours and there is a junction block mounted on the passenger side fender well. |
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Main power wire - 8 gauge Alternator wire - 8 gauge Main fusebox power/interior pwr - 8/10 gauge cant remember what AAW ran Main Ecu power - 2 leads That pretty much covers the whole car. All my other powers will come off this block in some way. Hope that helps. Here are some pictures to show you. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/cfb6235e.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/8a8d4f9e.jpg Heres the path that I routed the main 1/0 gauge starter wire, wire to the ignition, and the main 8 gauge for the distribution block in the drivers fender. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/79f3caa0.jpg Starter wire runs through the pass toeboard as seen here. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/78800584.jpg Hope that helps give a better picture. If you have any other questions I can help with give me a pm and Ill shot you my cell number.:thumbsup: |
Thanks man for the info and the illustrations you provided. I will definitely send you a pm with some photos showing how stupidly the wiring was done on my camaro. Hopefully I am going to learn from you how to rewire some stuff.:thumbsup:
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No problem. That's what we are all here for..without help I wouldn't be where I'm at now. :thumbsup:
I ordered the last piece that I can think of to wrap the motor up. Radiator and all the pieces for the intake. All that should be here early next week. Then just have to finish some small wiring, mount the ecu, wrap up the gauges, either extend the coil wire plugs or get extensions, mount the coils, put the gaskets on the headers and tighten them down, fill the motor/radiator with coolant, run/route the PVC system. Cycle the key and check for leaks in the fuel system and coolant system and then let the heaven sing the sweet tunes of fire breathing power. Whoa I'm getting all excited... So this weekend the old man came buy and we worked on tiddying up some lose wires, routing and securing the plug wires, fixing the oil leak at the adapter for the oil pressure gauge, running the power wire for the fuel system, and extending the wires for the map and cleaning that up. Next weekend I believe Timmy is going to come over so we can mount the pedal, ecu, and vaporworx stuff and mount the gauge cluster. Onto some quick pictures.. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/d57e9e9e.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/316f0104.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/e66fd056.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/a859b040.jpg More to come soon.. |
Thanks manand best of luckwith your project. I noticed that you hooked up a pink wire, which I assume is the S wire on the alternator pigtail, to the alternator post on the back side. What about the L wire, did you connect any resistor between the L wire and the alternator exciter?
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/8a8d4f9e.jpg The reason why I am asking is that I have got the same alternator, and there was only the L wire on the alternator pigtail connected to the alternator exciter wire, and the S wire was not connected. The alternator was not charging the battery when the S wire was not connected. So, I connected the S wire to post on the backside of the alternator similar to yours and started to get 14.4V at the alternator, but there is no any resistor between the L wire and alternator exciter wire. I actually don't know whether the alternator exciter wire is hooked to the dash cluster or to the PCM, and there is no charge light.. I tried to trace the exciter wire but know luck. The wiring harness and the EFI harness are from Painless. I also realized that a Ford starter solenoid was installed on the fender well, http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...8/photo1-1.jpg Honestly I don't know what the rest of the wires are for. :mad: |
Hey man. Without being at the car I honestly would only be guessing. My harness is from PSI and he wanted constant power for the pink wire. The main 8 gauge wire runs to the power block which is mounted on the drivers side firewall behind the fender as shown in the pictures above. If you want to talk on the phone hit me with a pm and Ill call you tonight or give you my number to call me. Ill help as best as I can. If it was me Id buy a kit from Mad Electrical ----> http://www.madelectrical.com/
I would call up Mark who is the owner, hes been doing this for over 30 years. The guy is a book on electrical for cars. Super nice guy..hell get you on the right path either way.:) After thinking about it for a few days I didnt like how the wires where running over the control arms. So last night I pulled each side off and switched them to see if I could find a nice spot to mount the coils. The problem side is the drivers side as there is the steering box, brake stuff, clutch stuff, and headers. I found a good spot that should work on the underside of the firewall. Ill weld a mounting bracket to the firewall. Once mounted the closest point from header to coil should be no less than 2". Its closer than I like but if I burn up a coil Ill move them inside under the dash. Its part of hotrodding I guess. Im going to make up a heat shield also so that should help. Here are some pictures.. I have to get some better ones of the coils once mounted to show clearance. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/582143b1.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/2627957c.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/d77ce5a5.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/e9b85381.jpg |
Thanks dude for your cooperation;I will try to contact Mark and probably get the kit from him.
Once again good luck with your project..:) |
:thumbsup:
So Timmy came over last night to hopefully finish up the welding on the car. Poor Timmy every time he comes close to the car I’m adding stuff for him to tackle. For such a young guy I can’t say enough. Truly an artist and amazes me with the pride he takes in the smallest thing. So the main goals where to mount the pedal, and mount the coils packs. Which both are now done. The coil packs are close to the headers but far enough away I don’t see it being a problem. Just to be safe I’m going to have Timmy make a metal shield to combat some of the heat. I am also going to take apart the coil harness and clean it up as it just looks old/messy. I’ll get some better pictures of the coils and mounting location once they are all done and complete. It was late, the shop was a mess and the lighting was horrible. The pedal box was also welded to the inside once we figured out where it would work best. After some grinding and fitting it’s done. I threw some black paint on it quickly to make sure it doesn't start rusting, got to close while painting and its a bit runny. Not that anyone will see it but I like to show everyone what/how its done..not just the finished project. So go easy on me painters. Timmy also finished mounting the dash lights for the turn signal, check engine light, and high beam lights. It came out great. I also received the intake piping from summit so I pieced that together and I’m still up in the air if I’m going to paint the pipes some sort of black. Also figured out where we are going to mount the ecu/fuse panel which will be on top of the gauge pod. This way I can get to it but it’s not easily seen. The OBD port will also be mounted to the driver side of the gauge pod, again out of direct sight but easy to access. Last but not least the radiator will be here before the weekend...so that’s the next big to do. Once I get it Ill wire up the fans off the ecu and plumb the steam vent, fill it with coolant and check for leaks. Where getting close. I’m going to schedule the break in/tune sometime next week as long as everything goes smoothly. Onto the pictures.. http://img848.imageshack.us/img848/9017/imageozz.jpg http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/505/imagefimu.jpg http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/7325/imagequf.jpg http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/4572/imagesqe.jpg http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/160/imageuub.jpg http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/8022/imagejia.jpg http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/497/imageifav.jpg http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/4029/imagephwz.jpg |
Got over to the car this weekend. Trying to wrap up the some of the small stuff and get ready for the car to be fired. First off was to rewrap the old wiring for the coil packs. That was done on the driver side as Timmy took the passenger side to make a heat shield. The one coil is a little over an inch away hopefully it will be fine. Well see..I also cleaned the header mounting surface off put the gasket in and put the apr bolts in with some anti-seize , torqued them to spec. Once I get the other coil pack back I'll finish the passenger side.
The radiator showed up on friday so I put that in also and my hoses fit but the lower is just too short. Im going to the auto store soon and see what I can come up with. other than that it should be simple. The wiring harness is really nice and simple. What a great piece compared to others that are close to double in price. Me and my brother in law made wood blocks to get the car in the air to install and work on easier. So after we made them I put the car on them. The dimensions are 21" x 23" - 8 per block so a total of 32 each. I also got some shots of the of the pedal as people where asking how the travel is limited and exactly where it is located. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/c1b2aa57.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/e3739985.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/a8a77a5f.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/7b6a3bef.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/2b9f6b6c.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/9d356fe0.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/0f2812b5.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/8444be92.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/9ec56e3c.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/00a47ee7.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/6d4504e1.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/4c14db38.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/43ab9528.jpg |
Your making some great progress. Thats a sweet looking radiator it will definitely be plenty of cooling. Nice work.
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Thanks man..:thumbsup:
Ok so may photobucet is down..hate that sometimes anyway.. Been really pushing on the car could have done it with out the help from family, friends, John over at psi and Carl at vaporworx..both great companies to work with. For the first start the car would run 2-3 seconds and stall. We then scanned for codes and where getting cam and crank. After talking to John we realized the cam signal was wrong and fixed it, again thank you John. The car then fired but was running rough...realizing there is two large vacuums at the back of the manifold that need to be plugged. Once those where closed with my buddies finger here's what we have... http://s1163.photobucket.com/albums/...t=2475b1dd.mp4 Now the crank code is still coming up which im told I need to get a tech II and do a relearn. Going to address that get some plugs for the intake and I also ordered a fuel pressure gauge to dial in the fuel pressure to make sure she's getting enough fuel.. Hopefully they should get her running well. Other than all that I need to get the car ready for the engine break-in and tune..which means it has to be drivable. The brake lines are roughly ran but need to be finalized and all the end need to be cut and reflarred to fit the wilwood distribution valve, then bleed. Need to fill both rear and transmission with fluid, put the drive shaft in, bleed the clutch, put the steering box in and steering column back in, and button up all loose end/bolts. Much more to come.. |
So I’m still here plugging away to get the car on the road.. Got the intake plugged up, installed the fuel pressure gauge and dialed that in. The engine was running a bit longer now but still stalling out. After talking to the tuner and john at psi it was recommended to unplug the maf and have the ecu go into limp mode. After doing that she finally runs and stays running. The tune is too far off at the moment and once tuned it should correct all the problems. I have a tune date set up for this coming Saturday to drop the car off. Ill probably have to push that back some as there is still a lot to be done as seen below:
Mount ecu/relay panel Wire turn signal lights inside the car Fill transmission with fluid Fill rear with fluid Tighten all rear bolts/hardware Temporarily mount driver coil packs Re-bleed brakes Bleed clutch Install steering box & column Tighty up wires for ecu/under dash Install passenger seat Install front and rear glass Install coolant overflow Install driveshaft This past week I hooked up the master to the pedal with a heavy duty ball joint link from mcmaster-carr part number - 60745K841. It was not fun getting it in and hopefully I have enough pedal to not have to mess with it again. Later in the week my buddy John helped me start on running the brake lines and getting everything together. Then on Saturday afternoon me and the old man finished up the brake system and bleed the whole system. Not too bad overall there were a couple small leaks that needed to be addressed but a couple quick tightens and everything is fine. I had to make the two small lines from the master to the distribution block and the first main line going to the rear out of the brake line kit I got from frank at prodigy. The rest of my kit is from inline tube the 8 piece kit for stock in stainless. The rear line is 1/2 from the factory but the wilwood distribution block only accepts 3/16 line. I went to the local napa and they had a 3/16 to 1/2 line that made the transition as seen in the pictures on the drivers’ rocker. The only other modification was because my rear has been narrowed I had to cut the drivers rear axle line about 6" and re-flare the stainless. Here are some pictures. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/81067156.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/9bbefe05.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/f85a8e34.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/9d55b5f0.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/39e1c202.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/27201d2f.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/88ac9d81.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/aa328d1c.jpg |
In the past week we have mounted the drivers coil pack in the drivers fender out of the way from heat being that I felt it was too close to the header. I also ordered and recieved a full magnaflow exhaust (15899) for the car. After some tweeking and a little welding it is on..full 3" dumping right before the rear..I have to get some pictures..In other news I bought a used anvil spoiler from a member on here..Thanks Brian. So I had Timmy mount that last night..Let me tell you that having your brand new carbon trunk lid drilled into is not a pleasant thing..but shes all done now..
So im hoping the car can go to be broke in/tuned this saturday and then I can wrap up the small things to get the car on the road for a shake down this summer. Between me, my brother, cousin, friends and the old man a lot of man hours have been put in recently to get her ready. There is still a lot to be done but the car is far enough alone at the moment to be tuned. Or so I hope... Heres my done list as of right now... Mount ecu/relay panel - done Fill transmission with fluid - done Fill rear with fluid - done Tighten all rear bolts/hardware - done Mount driver coil packs - done Bleed clutch - done Tighty up wires for ecu/under dash - done Install coolant overflow - done Install driveshaft - done Still needs to be done... Install E-Brake Recheck the driveline angle, adjust Put clamps on the filler neck Re-bleed brakes Install steering box & column - box is done...still have to do the column Hook up return for power steering line Wire turn/Healight signal lights inside the car Install VSS pigtail Install passenger seat Install front, rear, windows Figure out why tach is not working Figure out why volt is not working Do final run for water temp wire http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...rior-front.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...or-trunk-1.jpg |
Spoiler looks great! Man, you move fast!
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Great news! Your kicking butt. I hope everything goes well so you can get it tuned this weekend. The carbon parts look great on there.
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Thanks guys! Brain again thank you for the great deal.
So the car was set up to go to the tuner on Saturday. After a long Friday night it was as ready as it could be. They will be breaking the motor in and then tuning it all on the dyno. So my dad and brother got over on Saturday and we loaded the car up. Well the car is so low that the headers/exhaust where giving us problems. Once I get it back I will be addressing all these problems. I’m thinking that either way the headers are coming off and I'm going to have them pulled closer to the floor for more clearance. I will probably have to raise the front of the car a bit also and do some rolling/pulling to the front fenders to not have any issues in the future. Other than that the front chin spoiler was making me nervous so we pulled that off before loading it. We get to the shop and start to unload it but half way down the ramp the car stops. Final we drag it off jack the rear of the car up and try to spin the wheel. Won't move at all. So I crack the bleeder screw and then they turn. The head shop guy named Dale thinks either there was too much fluid and it wasn’t breathing?? Anyone have any suggestions or herd of this..? Makes no sense to me...they are going to dig in and hopefully fix it without costing me too much. More progress as I hear it..Here are some pictures from the weekend. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/859afe9e.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/126d4f6e.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/f54ff09e.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/671f0d26.jpg Also here is the video from last week that my brother took with the exhaust on dumped before the rear axle. |
So I disappeared for awhile but have been working on the car. After a week at injection connection Dale called me and said there was a couple issues with the car.
1) The brakes where locking up and won't release. 2) The motor threw the belt 3) Both axel seals are leaking 4) The ecu is throwing a crank relearn code and won't take the relearn. So I went and picked up the car. He did put a rough tune on it to keep the car running. I brought the car home took all the brake lines apart and blew everything out with air and bleed them all again. Fixed the issue. The crank pulley I'm not really sure on this one. I changed the crank pulley to another one which I don't think did anything. The crank pulley is still in 3/16". I'm still working on this issue. I called moser and got new axles seals and was told on the phone that the fill on there rear is NOT on the rear cover. It's located on the passenger side pumpkin. So between installing the old seals without a seal installer and it being way over full. That issue has been fixed. The crank relearn me and my buddy John tried to fix with a tech II but again is didn't take. Luckily Dale figured out that the values can be turned to 0%, which is what we did. So once all these issues where addressed. I set up to bring the car back on August 3. That's what we did. Got the car there around 11 and was all done by 3. Great experience with injection connect. Dales got a great crew and is very knowledgable with these cars. Being that it was 90+ outside and high humidity Dale feels there is a bit left on the table, so there might be a retune in the fall..now I was told the car made around 540hp & 570tq at the wheels. But when I look at the graph it shows differently..who knows. Here a quick dyno video and the graph. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/7cd87a0f.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...s/ef45f8b6.jpg So now I still have a few things to do until I can register her and actually take her out. Here's the list 1)install front and rear windows 2)wire turn signals 3)put bulbs in turn signals and tail lights 4)buy and install front and rear sway bars 5)get longer power steering lines 6)dial in suspension and get an alignment 7)recheck driveline angles. 8)do big smokey burnout with some skynyrd blasting and get a video for YouTube!!! |
That last thing on your to do list is a definite MUST DO! It sound great, nice numbers.
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Man thats going to be fun on the street!! Keep up the good work.
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So not too much going on in the last month. I’ve been pushing hard to get the car on the road, which has happened. Got the front and back windows installed without the trim for the moment. (Going to try to go flush mount when they come back out for paint and ditch the trim all together if I can) Put the front grill in, all new bulbs in the whole car. So everything works at the moment. Bought and installed ridetechs muscle bar. Had to trim the frame where they welded on these big corner things on the front of the shock towers. Other than that it fit perfectly with my stock lower control arms. I’ll have to get some pictures up. Also my birthday has passed and my wonderful wife bought me a wood nardi wheel for my birthday which has also been installed.
So after all that was done I really wanted to get over to the last car show of the year on august 28th. It was around 5 miles from the house. So the night before I got the car registered which gave me 5 days to drive it before inspection. I had the car registered under standard plates. Not antique or classic - which in PA require no annual inspection of any kind but you can only drive the car 1 day a week and it should be to or from some type of car event. I didn’t build the car to not drive it so that weighed my decision. Which opened up a whole can of worms with inspection. So Tuesday comes and I head out to the car show with some friends and I get about a mile before the show and the car throws a check engine light and goes into limp mode at a red lights. We pushed the car to a driveway and it literally dies out. Before it died I looked at the volt meter and it was reading around 8 volts. So I knew it was something to do with the charging system. Got the car towed through hagerty which is part of my insurance. So all in all it worked out. Come to find out that the alternator was not receiving signal from the ecu. Fixed the issue and everything is now working correctly. Big thanks to John over at PSI for the great customer service in figuring out the problem with me. So on this past Saturday I took the car over to the inspection shop to have it looked over to figure out what I need to have done to legally get a sticker. Here is my next list of problems to be addressed: 1)Need windshield wipers 2)Exhaust needs to exit the rear of the car 3)Need a drivers mirror 4)Needs rear reverse lights 5)Seat belts need to be installed 6)Horn needs to work All of these seem to not be too bad with the exception of the pipes and the wiper. I really dont want to have to put out money for the custom pipes from prodigy. Im thinking I am going to try my self to get them mocked up and then have them welded at a shop. My labor is free. For the wipers I dont have the cash for the dse kit which is what I want. Im going to try to make the stocker work for the time being and see if that gets me by. I have to buy a side window and the rear rs lights as I dont have them..so if anyone has some used parts please feel free to let me know..we can barter also. Here are some pictures from the last month. More to come.. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...55836D8C5F.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...5595D17AFC.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...55A71537B4.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...55AF494977.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...55BE46FFA6.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...55EF8CF1CD.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...55E3EF128C.jpg |
So not too much really going on at the moment but I am still moving along with the car..the car passed inspection after I fixed these issues:
1)Installed and put on new windshield wipers 2)Exhaust now exits the rear of the car 3)Installed a drivers mirror 4)Hooked up the rear reverse lights 5)Installed Seat belts 6)Hooked up the Horn Drove the car for a bit but a check engine light keeps coming up for tps..after doing some digging on this the ecu has to have the parameters changed for the throttle due to it being a 102 and aftermarket. Talked to Dale and he said bring the car in and he'll take care of it no problem..so I still have to do that. There is two things keeping me from doing this..one is no ebrake and the other is the weather has been getting colder so Ill have to pick a nice day to try to get over there before winter hits being that I have no side windows or heat. For the ebrake I just finished installing this last night. it works but not great. I have to make a few more adjustments and I think it will work great. Have to get some pictures of this. In other news after driving for a bit I felt that the shifter/steering wheel/right leg area was to tight and I wanted to try to free up some space..so the first thing I did was to try to adjust the shifter and change the position to get it more towards the passenger side a bit. Well I failed at that after breaking 2 allen sockets and the allen key head off in the first bolt. The next day a quick call to Josh over at American Powertrain he tells me that the whole shifter I have it old and they have since revised it to have an internal seal to stop it from seeping. He offers to send me a brand new one and for me to just send the old one back. So that’s what I did...got the new one and took me around 2-3 hours to install. It was a bit tight in that tunnel trying to take out and replace 6 allen bolts by hand...but its done now and I can adjust it. Got some more room from that but I still wanted more so I started looking for a tilt column. Steve Rupp had a brushed aluminum ididit one for sale and I bought it from him and as always what a pleasure to do business with him. Called up ididit and ordered their steering wheel adapter and new rag joint. Got the order and the rag joint was wrong (my fault, counted the splines wrong) sent back the wrong one and am waiting on the new one to come back. Did a quick mock up with the column and with the tilt feature I think this room issue will be resolved all together. So being that I can’t leave anything alone. I talked to Timmy the other day and we talked about starting the paint process over the winter..so he came over last Sunday and we pulled the whole front end apart so he could take the front fenders and weld up the lower extension to the fenders to give the car a cleaner look. He is also going to get me the primer I need to lay on the car for the blocking..ect. I also ordered the semi-gloss hotrod black single stage that will cover all the interior panels, dash, whole engine compartment, and rear tail panel. So that will get started in the near future. There’s lots of scuffing/blocking and prep work to be done so if your around the area and want to lend a hand let me know. The beer and food are on me. And for my last update ill let the last picture do the talking..haha.. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...6AF25224C3.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...6AFA0D6AE9.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...6AE63501EB.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...6AD4490A8B.jpg Much more to come.. |
very kool!
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What color are you planning painting it? Are you going to leave the Carbon exposed?
Awesome build BTW! |
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Great job on everything.
What are you going to do about the stripes on the upper deck panel? |
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Getting a sticker made would probably be the cheapest?
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Fake/Hydro CF next to the real deal is kinda lame. Unless you go the distance, maybe end the stripes on the decklid? |
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Thanks man.
So Timmy came over today being that the fenders where finished for now. I wanted to try to get over to the tuner soon to fix this check engine light that keeps coming up for the tps. Dale has to calibrate the parameters for the throttle body and that should fix the issue. I planned to drive the car over there and put some miles on the car too. Its about a half an hour from me so this would be the cars longest drive to date. So being that we blew the front end apart we reassembled it all again. The gaps and panels go together a bit easier now it seems or maybe I'm just getting good at it.. They have all been massaged in some way so I'm hoping that is the reason. The whole reason for this was to clean up the lines a bit and Timmy has came through again. It looks like it came from the factory like this. Actually when I showed some people they asked me what was done numerous times.. So I'm guessing the job looks good. In the time I have been waiting for Timmy Ive been busy cleaning up some wiring, installed the parking brake set up, and I also finished installing the DSE wiper kit that I bought used for a good deal. Which went in awesome and works so much better that the stocker. Plus cleans it up a good bit too. After all that I finished installing the new ididit steering column and getting that where I like it. Again a huge difference over stock, looks great and the adjustable was a must in my opinion. Next stop is back to the tuner for a quick fix and maybe even a colder weather tune... Well see.. Here is some pictures showing the stock position of the column and leg room or lack there of in 1st and 2nd..my right leg is touching the steering wheel http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...8580658309.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...0de2a20d60.jpg And now tilted all the way up. Hard to see but the steering wheel is no longer on my right leg when I'm on the gas pedal. I have about 2-3 inch of room between now. Same thing 1st and 2nd.. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...2d8b00391f.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...dba1db098c.jpg Overall view: http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...e1086620df.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...62e7ffa885.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...6765f71650.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...156e64854a.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...02291fd583.jpg |
Car looks great! Well, it looks like the DSE wiper motor worked out good for you! We are going a different way on my 67 Camaro.
The post on the carbon fiber on the upper deck, well, back in the Pro-Street graphic artists used to use a decal and then painted clear coat over it. The decal can be made by a commercial lettering company. http://http://www.signaramacolumbus.com/ These companies use adobe illustrator now, and you could probably take a photo of your carbon fiber. The other way is to get someone good with graphics and airbrush it. Jeff |
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