I don't have anything fancy (even though it was in Popular Mechanics after I Epoxy'd the Floor) & the pictures are on my Home Computer. Just a 1 Car Garage that used to be a CarPort. I walled it in, tore the old Flat Roof off, built my own trusses with a 12' center section & installed a Roll-Up Door. I put in a Rotary Revolution7 Lift so I can wrench & store. Big Snap-On box, Snap-On roll-around Cart with 4 Drawers, Fridge Full of Beer :cheers: . I also have a 40' long Carport behind the House where I can store my Open Trailer & another car.

T.C.

Panteracer shop
 

My brother and I bought an old metal building a
few years back that was an x machine shop... t-bar
ceiling etc.. we did a matrix epoxy floor, painted the
walls, redid the front room with lounge area, kitchen etc

My home away from home.. whenever anyone calls the
house my wife says he is at his shop.. working on some
more cabinets and machine shop area in the back
It has a great Stereo, Ac and heat, two lifts

Panteracer Norcal Bob

Way too clean --- can't possibly be any real work being performed there!!!


LOL


Nice shed Bob!

I'm diggin your TA Bob! :thumbsup:

Panteracer Shop
 

Shop really is not that clean.. I just put things
away in the drawers before someone comes over
then I can never find anything.. working on cleaning
and organizing. Matrix floor hides everything including
a bolt or nut you drop.. kinda of a pain

Rob.. yes the Firebird is my favorite.. its been
going thru a revamp lately.. new speedtech front end,
still has leafs but monos with spherical eyes, subframe
connectors and old Herb Adams style braces out front
Working on lightening things up now

Panteracer Norcal Bob

I see that your lift is right over the seams in your concrete. I was under the impression that this wasn't a good thing? I had the same problem in my garage, so this weekend we cut out 2 4x4' sections of the 4" concrete and dug down 12-13" to pour some 5000psi concrete this week. Maybe your slab is thicker and you were able to use longer anchor bolts?

Yeah, I went back and forth on that over and over again reading all of the experts on the internet saying it shouldn't be done while I was researching the lift install too. The more I looked and read, the more I realized that those saying you shouldn't span an expansion joint with the base of a two post lift were the same types that probably wouldn't ever even attempt to install a lift on their own because they were too afraid of everything.

I talked with the guys at Greg Smith Equipment about it...and a few construction guys I know and decided I'd be fine.

I've got 4,000 psi concrete somewhere around 5" thick with embedded rebar tied off both directions every 24" with a gravel base under the pour. To me, cutting sections out and pouring deeper didn't make sense because you'd lose or disturb the rebar reinforcement which I felt was as important if not more than the thickness of the concrete or where the expansion joints were.

I also read about the same people suggesting using epoxy to secure the anchors in the concrete which also didn't make sense to me. I used 3/4" anchors that went into holes I drilled 5-6" deep, some went through the bottom of the slab, others did not. After driving the anchors down into the holes and shimming the column bases plumb, I hand torqued each of the anchors down a little bit at a time. You could feel if and when they were biting and clamping the base of the column down onto the slab. I had one pull up and not bite, the anchor itself failed. I ended up driving it down into the gravel base and put a new anchor in it's place that bit and snugged up great.

This is a long explanation but in the end, the slab is stout and established (over 10 years old) and the bases of the columns are clamped down tight to the rebar reinforced slab, expansion joints or not with 3/4" anchors. Basically the anchors make the bases of the columns and the slab become one. The majority of the weight load goes straight down from the posts onto the slab with a little bit of the anchors job to keep the columns from tilting forward or back. With my truck all the way up on the lift, if you grab the back bumper and lift up or down on it, you will see the lift arms and the carriages twist and tweak back and forth a bit as the truck moves, but the columns do not budge. The lift itself is going to self destruct long before the slab will break or the anchors pull out of the floor.

I agree with you Lance.... The lift makes a square box... on a side to side basis.

People need to learn HOW to use a lift - and I think the real danger is front to back from an improperly positioned car. I have a Rotary 2 post asymmetric where a good portion of the car is offset to the rear. I was told by the lift people that the DASH should be parallel to the posts... and the front arms should be about 90* or perhaps ahead a bit. It's worked fine for me.

Just poking you here a bit -- but maybe that pickup could be used for a couple of runs to the dump... Looks like you're storing a lot of "stuff". That's supposed to be used for car stuff -- at least on this forum... HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

I drilled a pilot hole and concrete thickness was barely 4" in the area that the posts needed to go and I wasn't sure what psi my concrete is. I am also using a base plate lift (probably a Direct Lift HR8000) due to 10.5' ceilings. I think that makes it a little more critical on the composition of your slab as well. we are using 1/2" rebar to tie the new footing into the slab. Sounds like you know a little bit more about the composition of your slab....which helps.

lol... That picture was taken at a bad time for me car shop wise. The tale end of a long construction project plus leftovers from two estates and a downsizing of my Dad's house.

Here's what the inside of the shop looks like today.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-r...123032_692.jpg


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8...123023_803.jpg


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...123058_923.jpg


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J...123052_387.jpg


Well, maybe not that nice as I'm in the throws of a partial body off frame project right now so there's a few parts and tools strewn about currently...

Yeah, I built it...so I saw what was under it before it was poured and I knew what was poured..

You drilled sideways into the existing slab that was left and tied the new rebar into the old slab...right?

You'll be fine and I understand being concerned about the unknown in your case.

My main concern was actually hitting rebar while drilling the holes...which did happen in two cases. Cost me a $60 rebar drilling concrete bit to get those two holes drilled finally. Neither one was a direct hit though, both were about a half hit on the rebar.

Yes, we used 2 12" long pieces of bar per side (8/footing). We didn't go all the way across so I didn't have to worry about hitting bar when drilling holes. We also undercut (keyed in) the footing hole to the existing slab per most lift manufacturers' instructions. Can't wait to get the lift in!

Lance,

I was just being funny...


I had so much junk in the shop -- during the build process - that if you look closely here -- that's a 30,000 mile original So Cal '69 Camaro drop top -- store OUTSIDE in the Pacific NorthWET.... UGH....





http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...d/DSC_2128.jpg






Building out the "boys room" upstairs.... OMG what a process/mess!!!







http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...d/DSC_2141.jpg

lol Greg...looks pretty familiar. :lol:

One step forward, two steps back kind of deal. I've got this nice shop, but I can't use it because I'm too busy making my nice shop...nicer...

Story of our lives...ain't it.

anyone have a polished concrete garage floor? :stirthepot:

NO!! Too slick!

that was going to be one of the questions I needed to ask. One place local to me said the floor would be similar to what's in home depot/ sams club

A little water or oil or antifreeze on mine and you have to watch your step --- I'm telling ya -- I prefer a floor with just a bit of bite. Concrete is H A R D and not something you want to land on suddenly.

I'm not talking brushed or that much -- but just a bit more than "polished" -- unless you're just trying to make a showroom out of it.

There are sealer additives that shouldn't create excessive future maintenance.
http://www.hcconcrete.com/products/s...tant_Additive/
Appears to be glass bead media mix in a sealer.

That said - After 36 years in the flooring business the last thing I'd want is a finished floor in my garage/shop. When I built my place we treated the slab with a penetrating sealer and called it good. In key work areas I use pieces (remnants) of fiberglass stabilized loose-lay vinyl flooring for easy cleanup and comfort. 10 years later it has stains here and there but in my opinion it looks much better than any epoxy coating or hi-build clear sealer would after the same use and maintenance (lack of).

I use my garage as a work shop not a showroom and don't want to slow progress taking preventative measures to protect a floor finish.

The guy that finished my flat work put a really smooth finish on it. My goal at the time was to put an epoxy coating on it so I did NOT seal the concrete after.

Fast forward a couple of months and the guys that did my spray in foam insulation job were less than careful with their drop cloth placement and in several places coated the floor with foam. If you have ever seen that stuff, once it sticks, it is stuck on...FOREVER... I was so sickened by the overspray, I gave up on the dream of an epoxy coating on the floor and have been living with just the concrete ever since.

It's okay... Not smooth enough to be slick, but smooth enough to sweep up pretty easily. It's got some oil stains in it in places, they seem to show up more when it's humid.

I've seen enough horror stories from guys with the nice epoxy floors that have it coming up if they drive on it with hot tires or leave their cars sitting on them for too long that I'm now glad I didn't go that route. I'm sure some of the commercial type epoxy floors are better...but they are :G-Dub: compared to the home remedy types.

hmmm showroom? :idea: well back to the drawing boards! :bitchslap:

mine looks like a DUMP right now due to the house remodel. Everything from the house going into the garage.

Best part is the more my wife spends on the house, the more car parts I get :thumbsup:

Epoxy Floor
 

Our shop was a body shop,machine shop
Etc since the 60's so the floor was really shot
We power washed,ground it, filled it and epoxy
coated it with a little texture. Problem is we had the matrix
Paint chips installed. Everyone thinks it is clean all the time
because it hides everything including nuts or bolts I drop
I have crawled on the floor with a flashlight looking for things
way too many times

Panteracer NorCal Bob

here is my small garage.

I have wanted to insulate and drywall the garage since I moved in. I finally got around to it.

I stripped the walls down to studs.
http://media.motortopia.com/files/ca...Thumbnail1.jpg

Moved some outlets and added insulation.
http://media.motortopia.com/files/ca...Thumbnail1.jpg

Drywall up, time for mud and tape.
http://media.motortopia.com/files/ca...Thumbnail1.jpg

Two coats of primer
http://media.motortopia.com/files/ca...Thumbnail1.jpg

one side done, painted with super high gloss white paint with a glass like finish.
http://media.motortopia.com/files/ca...Thumbnail1.jpg

time for the second side.
http://media.motortopia.com/files/ca...Thumbnail1.jpg

added some outlets and a switch to turn off a few of my overhead lights when not needed. that counts as being green right?
http://media.motortopia.com/files/ca...Thumbnail1.jpg

drywall and tape and mud done
http://media.motortopia.com/files/ca...Thumbnail1.jpg

done, now to put the mess away.
http://media.motortopia.com/files/ca...Thumbnail1.jpg

almost there, time for some garage art and foldup workbenches, and I need to get everything hung up on the walls and off the floor.
http://media.motortopia.com/files/ca...Thumbnail1.jpg

its like being at a drive-in....
http://media.motortopia.com/files/ca...Thumbnail1.jpg

it looks good Bryce Nice job! I still need to do something with mine.

That looks good Bryce, nice upgrade.

I'm curious how much you think painting the walls gloss white helps with light? The lighting in my shop sucks and I've wondered if it would help if I painted the walls white.

First off --- Nice job Bryce!! That's a good feeling to have something like this accomplished and will make a much nicer feeling for you every time you're out there.


Lance --- Some of my shop has FLAT Black walls --- and the rest is an off white --- the difference between the two areas is night and day. The black just knocks the light into nothing but I like the background for the neon and 'stuff' (a nice word for crap) on the walls.


Paint 'em white and you'll be happy with the result.

Shop painting
 

I second the painting of the walls white or a light color
My last house had a makeshift 1 car garage added
I painted the walls gloss white and it was the best
working area I had

Great job on getting things cleaned up
I am trying to get my shop organized but
the weather has been too nice lately so
I just take the car out for a spin

Panteracer Norcal Bob

The white is awesome. It is at least twice as bright in the garage now. My next project is to insulate the roof and add a plywood ceiling for storage. I will paint the ceiling white too. This should also increase the brightness.

The insulation works so well that it was 70 degrees in the garage last night at 9pm without the space heater on.

Shop Pictures
 

I finally installed a few old lab cabinets that we
removed from one of our projects... counters are
from an old Stage we replaced at Stanford

Time to fill the cabinets and get some posters up
as this corner looks awfully naked

Panteracer Norcal Bob

Nice score Bob!


The wood tops will be great to work on!

Man, I can't imagine the amount of crap I could pile up on that much workbench space!!! Nice!!!

shop pictures
 

yes the wood tops are laminated wood 2 1/2" thick
I am going to leave them as is that way I can
pile anything on them.. no fancy finish.. I wanted to have a place
to put something big on them and work from both
sides if needed.. trying to get organized
Going to stuff 3 of my old blown Pontiac motors
underneath in the back for another day to start fixing them

Panteracer Norcal Bob

Back in the dealership days it was my first at a new dealership and the first day everyone had come back to work after they had scrubbed down and painted the floors. I got done setting up my tools just in time to watch a tech come in to his stall a little too hot, tap on the brakes where the freshly painted floor was wet from his last job, and slide right into the hoist. Boom! I would imagine a polished floor would be like that every day.


I'm a +1 on the fact that a painted floor should be in more of a "showroom" garage and not a working garage. I don't care what they say about how durable that stuff is.. I've taken out chips of concrete where trannys roll off of jacks, things have fallen over... where life happens... and you will never be able to keep that floor "perfect."

Daaauuuuuummmm! Ya'll got some nice ass garages.

And they all have one thing in common.

They're all too small. :D

Yep!

LOL yeah I bet

The walls in my garage used to be brown. I painted them semi-gloss white only because I couldnt find high gloss and lots of people told me it would be to bright. It was a night and day change, and since I had to do some sheet rock work this winter I will find some high gloss when I repaint.

I also have the white epoxy floor stuff and its wonderfull, but as stated it wont stay perfect forever. I put two coats of the clear over it and it seems to help, just dont drag anything super heavy and sharp across it. Most of the time I can see when under my car without having to have a shop light when its up on jack stands as the light reflects off the floor. Only time the floor has reflected to much is in the early evening if I have the garage door open and the sun is setting,it will blast light right onto the floor and blind you if you are in the wrong spot.

I have a beige epoxy floor. The rustoleum two part epoxy paint from Home Depot. It has held up very well in the last 10 years i've been in my house. I didnt put sand in it or the flakes. I mop it once a year cause i spend a lot of time on it. Its icy when wet, but i wanted it glossy so i can clean it easy but mainly to find very small parts when dropped....like circlips on motorcycle carburators....