Yea I should have gone with a ride "height" joke :D

Seig

Cough it up what is your secret other than that huge stainless rod. :unibrow:

You meant ride short, right?

The objective is to leisurely achieve proper geometry and retain semi-stock appearance.

Sorry for the delay on details, I just got back from a hunting trip with my son out in the Oregon high desert.
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Paisle...IMAG2219-L.jpg

Here's my tenative plan to be enacted as time and money allow. Strip the recently acquired subframe assembly down to the bare frame and clean it and detail the slop from the factory welds. Acquire the factory dimensions and straighten as required.

The current vision is to install a SpeedTech Chicane kit, SpeedTech upper and lower arms, RideTech single adjustable shocks, AFX tall spindles, new tie-rod ends with SpeedTech sleeves, and use the Hotchkis tubular sway bar that came with the subframe. Then I'll have the frame media blasted and powder coated or paint with POR or equivalent, I'm leaning to POR at this time.

I'd appreciate hearing the pro's and con's of this plan as I have no first hand experience with those components.

I'll also have for sale a relatively new stock steering box, upper and lower control arms, cross member, Wilwood 4 piston calipers, pads, hubs, and rotors, and Hotchkis lowered big-block springs. I'll have more details when I get it disassembled since I received the subframe a couple hours before I left town on Thursday.

Thanks :thumbsup:

Who cares about the car, what varmints are you plucking?

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Paisle...IMAG2236-M.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Paisle...MAG2186-XL.jpg

:unibrow:

If you look at 2 o'clock and 6' from my dogs head in this shot you'll see one:
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Paisle...O/IMAG2238.jpg

I give... An old fat guy and a wore out truck? :lol:

Deviation of a Belding Squirrel that invade the alfalfa pivots. On a good day the 5 of us will shoot 600-900 rounds per day per man. Typical yardage is 75-200 with .17 HMR and 100-450 for center fire, typically .17 Fireball, .204 Ruger, and .223.

This was the last shoot of the year. I've been going twice a year for going on 20 years now.

Car time now!

That sounds like a blast. My Dad just went out to Western Nebraska to shoot some prarie dogs.

One possible deviation to this plan would be using SPC upper arms instead of SpeedTech. Would the adjustability the SPC's offer be worthwhile?

Sieg,
I have spent a great deal of time waffling back/forth between Speedtech and Spc Upper control arms. Disclaimer, I have no experience with either... only what I have read or has been discussed and recommended to me.

As for the Speedtechs, Roger at Speedtech told me that with the Tall Spindle I would want the flatter High Clearance uppers they make as opposed to the standard ones. That might be something you want to check on directly.

Question, where did you get your coated U-bolts and are they 1/2 or 7/16?

Nice! Father/Son trigger time is the best!

Covered on the HC uppers. :thumbsup:

U-bolts are 1/2" from DSE: http://www.detroitspeed.com/1967-196...le-u-blts.html

The varmint hunts are quality time. :thumbsup:

As I suspected. Thank you.
I spoke with someone at DSE last week that told me I might have clearance issues tightening the nut near the bend for the shock tab with the 1/2". That and I would have to drill the plates out to 1/2" which is easily done.

I take it there is no such clearance nuisance?

My plates were 7/16 and I drilled them , it's tight at the bend but far from impossible.

Now that's a little something I know a little something about. I'm not sure which was more fun... gittin em with a .310 or a .22 :lol:

Scott, nice score. As you know since we talked about it, I have been running a very similar setup to what you lay out here. And I can tell you it was very hard to let this go with as well as it did. I think you have a well thought out plan and is just about as good as you can possibly get with a factory sub. :thumbsup:

Any input on the SpeedTech uppers vs. the SPC's?

Sieg, before you do anything to that subframe give Mark Savitske a call. He wrote the book,"How to make a muscle car handle". Buy the book, then call him. He knows his business.
I never heard of the guy until about a couple months ago. Jim Fay(the guy that makes the Fays 2 watts link)gave me his phone number and we talked for about an hour. Great guy with alot of great info. He also has a web site. I hope I didn't lose his contact info. If I find his number I will send it to you via PM.

EDIT: go to scandc.com. Found his phone number.

What about this front suspension set up:

• SPC uppers with delrin bushings screw in Howe tall ball joints
• SPC lowers for coil springs with ride height adjusters
• Howe tall tie rod ends
• VariShock QS2 double adjustable
• 650 lb -2" lower coils (existing, possibly 680 lb)
• Hotchkis 1 1/8 bar (existing)
• Stock spindles (existing)

As I understand it this would get the geometry close to AFX tall spindles, neutralize bump-steer, provide the same shock travel as a coil-over and gain compression and rebond dampening adjustment.

If I want to take the geometry to the next level I can add the AFX spindles and change the studs in the Howe ball joints.

Or, you could buy my JRS front suspension! :thumbsup:

If money wasn't an issue you're right! :yes:

Might have just scored an old skool 3970010 block that's .30 w/10K miles on the bore job. Another $6-7K and Huston we have a stroker. :unibrow:

:woot:

I have SPC lowers with the ride height kit on the shelf, I bought them last summer. I like the ride height adjustability and the caster to hopefully stay centered in the wheelwell. I don't know how big of concern that is for some but it made sense when comparing apples and oranges.

I took that into consideration for about 3 seconds when I jumped on the bargain I felt I got them for.:unibrow:

I still haven't nabbed any upper control arms but the "needs" list is getting a little shorter on the big items... for now.

I was confused by your "650 lb 2+" lower coils (existing, possibly 680 lb)" comment.

2+" :question:

With my still evolving kit I anticipate a front coil spring change. The ATS spindles I have incorporate a 7/8" drop. I have Hotchkis 2" drop coils now. Then the SPC lowers have 1" drop, but I read it is more like a -1.5" to +1.5" range so 3" of leeway to make corrections. I would prefer to have a spring that puts me in the middle of that and then work from there to tune, mostly for appearance.

As it is, I am looking at 3 7/8" advertised drop but we all know it varies from car to car.

Edited to reflect -2 (lower) oops. :(

Not sure on the 1" lower SC&C doesn't reflect that and Mark never mentioned they were lower in our conversation. Hopefully not, I don't need lower. http://scandc.com/new/node/81

Read the intro here Sieg. Sorry I am not doing hyperlinks(on my phone), please paste them into your browser if they aren't live when you click them.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Specialty-Prod...45084/10002/-1

The 1" drop is negated by using various optional plates as needed.

Have you read this yet?

http://scandc.com/new/node/731

I think they are a good choice.

Thought I scored a block, got it home and wiped it down and found this........
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Cama...IMAG2264-L.jpg
Surprised I missed it during the onsite inspection as I looked the valley area over pretty close. Oil film and lighting must have concealed it. Be interesting to see how the seller responds now that he has my cash.

dangit dude that sucks. hope you can make good on it with the seller. you convinced he knew about it?

Bummer!

Good luck with the seller. I hope he is a decent guy.

Hard to say, some people are much better liars than I am. In this economy people are desperate......I'm giving him the benefit of the doubt until he responds to the return request I sent with photo.

that sucks, let me know if you need a motor. I have a complete stroker engine that I was going to use but I found an LS2.
Short block is assembled.

That sucks seig. Is that block made in Mexico? Those are known to crack in the lifter valley.. BTW Bob is selling a brand new sbc bow tie block, if you only need the block

My Zl1 block works great, just saying.

Have one for sale!
 

Scott!

That so sucks bilge water!

I have a far better BBC version I will sell you -- numbers matching from my 67 Vette...


http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...dCamaro018.jpg


http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...teBlock001.jpg

Save those special deals for BB Todd. :unibrow:

I wish I had it too.


So I could sell it and buy a good small block. :lol:

From seller:
o man I'm so sorry I truly didn't have any idea of that. I guess i should have looked at it closer. are you sure that's a crack and not a casting mark?

well if it is for sure then, i owe you a full refund. was that were the rusty water looking puddle was?
-----------------
I feel bad for the guy becasue he's out of work and needs the money.

It wasn't easy to spot, the light conditions and slight oil/dust film must have camouflaged it.

Pm me the details?

It's one of the 3970010 castings, haven't check the date code, he thought it was '87.

That Bowtie is probably way out of my $ range, I don't need a killer block as the objective is a reliable 500ish hp 6,8-7K rpm peak.

Really will you feel better when you crack your own block? :rolleyes: Build a nice shortblock, if not when you want to up the ante you'll have to start all over.:D

Good to see that response from the seller. :thumbsup:

So what is your expected timeline for this 500hp motor you want to build? And like Rob in the REAL Socal (:lol:) says, will it satisfy you long enough? We know about your affinity for speed and adrenaline from the biking days. :unibrow:

One option I'm looking at is the Dart block they machine exclusively for EPW, slightly detuned version of the Little M.
I'm not getting a Chinese block like Dave. :rofl:

Who is EPW?

I got one of the later PBM's for the record... made in the USA! :woot:

Took the 70 mile trip again today and swapped the block for my cash. :thumbsup:

I'm convinced it was an honest mistake. I feel sorry for they guy he needs the money and didn't really want to sell the block. Now he has neither.

For a street and occational track / autocross car an honest 500 at the crank is adequate enough to get the car impounded and myself thrown in jail anyway. :yes: