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I purchased the booster from hydratechbraking.com. 615.449.8261
Very informed on correct master cylinder and what might work. I was able to use my original unit. Contact for GTO parts. Bethals Goat Farm, CA Phone: 408.295.7611 GM Sport Salvage, CA Phone: 408.432.8498 No luck on manual. |
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thank you so much roger!!! i'll make some phone calls this next week... things are coming together- slowly but surely. will update again here soon. thanks! danny |
GM Sports has moved from San Jose to Stockton and have a new number http://www.gmsports.com/
Also, not sure if it is important to you, since you're doing a pro-tour style restoration , but the correct color for a 68 GTO engine is the light metallic blue. You have, what appears to be GM blue from the late 70s http://www.barrett-jackson.com/stagi...Engine_Web.JPG |
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welcome to lateral-g, and congratulations on making your first post here! what is "correct?" Attachment 52675 when i was a young boy my father once asked me what my favorite color was. i remember enthusiastically blurting out the word "green." when i put the question back to him he responded, "pontiac blue." thanks for sharing your thoughts... all comments are welcomed and appreciated! :lateral: danny |
Still following
Want to see where it goes!
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You can order the spray paint form Year One. Just tell them what year the car is. A lot of paint stores also carry the Pontiac blue spray paint.
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http://www.pontiacpower.org/enginecolor.htm so in your case for a 1968 (what Blackened was pointing out) its my favorite version of pontiac blue , the light metallic blue http://i.imgur.com/Unh9F.gif |
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guys i really truly appreciate it- thank you for taking an interest in my project!!! i find the chart very interesting. in particular i like the disclaimer at the top... "*These need to be researched more and are not guaranteed to be accurate." but really, the chart is providing some very thought provoking information. right now my engine paint looks similar to at least a couple shades shown there. i wonder what it will look like after a few hundred heating/cooling cycles... it'll probably turn green!!! ha! the paint on the oilpan (pictured previously) isn't even much to go on i realize. it might not even be the original oilpan! i was just looking back through the phs documentation to see if i could find notes on engine color anywhere and i was surprised to find no mention of it. did i miss something in there? where does a pontiac owner look to find engine paint documentation? thanks again for putting out your thoughts and ideas here! it's such a great site and i'm lucky to be able to share my project with this community! :lateral: danny |
If you really want to get down to the most detailed information regarding Pontiacs, I would recommend also joining the Performance Years forum. Like Lateral G, the guys there are also very helpful and would probably like to see your build as well. Though some of them can be sticklers for originality :catfight: as they tend to lean more toward the restoration side of the hobby, but all Pontiacs are welcome. There is a wealth of knowledge for GTOs and Trans Ams/Firebirds and the Pontiac motor on PY.
If you were to repaint the motor, I would stick with the same brand to avoid any conflict between formulas. Or at least test a piece if you don't intend to use if you use different brands. Several members seem to prefer the Plasti-Kote 227 for durability, according to a recent thread there. I'm fairly certain you can order any of the major brands from your local auto supply or even Amazon. |
I dont think engine paint color would be on the PHS, as EVERY engine was painted the same for chunks of years.
Im willing to bet the formulation varied so there was slight changes and they probably used in the factory what they had on hand so again slight changes within the years, BUT I think you would be pretty safe to go with what is shown on the website. You arent doing a concourse resto Just to add to what Blackened says (again lol) if you go on Performance Years, and ask questions about modifications that arent original or "blessed" by the Poncho community you will either get members in the topic flaming you OR you will get zero response. Not everybody there is a purist but they are on there What I generally do is post resto-mod pro-touring type questions here, and originality questions or Pontiac engine related stuff there Good luck, from the pictures looks like you are doing a great job |
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Attachment 52996 Attachment 52997 Attachment 52998 Attachment 52999 here are a few photos of some recent progress. i ordered the hydratech hydroboost brake assist and the baer 1-1/8" bore master cylinder. also ordered the american autowire classic update wiring kit, floor insulation, carpet, bucket seat padding and upholstery materials. will try to update again soon... thanks for checking in. danny |
Coming along nicely Danny.
Good job! |
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here are some photos of of my effort to get the RDRP radiator fitted up. Attachment 53137 Attachment 53138 Attachment 53139 Attachment 53140 Attachment 53141 Attachment 53142 tech support at RDRP has been very helpful and i'm confident that with their assistance i will be able to get this figured out. probably need to drill some new holes and have a replacement upper mounting plate fabricated. also, it's clear to me that i should verify the hood will close properly without interference from the top of the radiator. at this point i'm not really sure how far i am from getting the hood in place. thanks for taking the time to have a look at my project, and as always if anything you see here inspires you to comment- please feel free! i'm always happy to receive input from the members of this community. will update again here soon... :lateral: danny |
Very nice looking welds on that radiator. :thumbsup:
Good luck going forward. |
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yes, the welds are absolutely top notch. no question about it- the radiator is a high quality unit. also, it came with a set of very clear and detailed installation and maintenance instructions, fan wiring harnesses/relays, master grounding kit, and transmission fluid cooler in case the car is ever converted back to the automatic. trying to make progress on several different fronts... piece by piece, one little step at a time. Attachment 53152 Attachment 53153 Attachment 53155 Attachment 53154 Attachment 53156 always moving forward! :lateral: danny |
Just so darn nice!
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Attachment 53243 Attachment 53242 Attachment 53244 Attachment 53245 i'm very happy with the way the seats turned out. the work was done by henry perez at alaska refinishing and upholstery with materials i purchased from ames. henry tackles a lot of upholstery projects for other classic car owners here in fairbanks, alaska and his work comes very highly recommended. eventually i'll probably see if he wants to build a new rear seat for the car as well. thanks for checking in! danny |
The seats do look great!
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Nice job on the seats. The car is looking great. Is that clutch pedal hung from a rod end?
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here are a couple more photos of the clutch pedal. sorry i don't have a better picture of the installed arrangement... Attachment 53247 the pivot stud with spacer mounts thru the pedal bracket. the master cylinder rod bolts to the tab below the pivot stud. Attachment 53248 i hope this answers your questions wayne. thanks a lot for having a look at my project! :lateral: danny |
I'm lovin it!
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progress has been coming pretty slow lately. i spent a little time under the car last week and found a stainless steel fastener in the passenger side rear brake assembly with no anti seize on it. there was only minor galling, but after stripping the allen head out of it i still had to remove the whole assembly down to the backing plate and drill out the fastener to accept an extractor. then i decided that if i had to replace one of the stainless fasteners i might as well replace them all- so that's what i did. no more stainless fasteners for this project. after coordinating with rdrp for a mutually acceptable solution to the radiator installation they ultimately decided they want to build a new one. those guys have been super helpful and very easy to communicate with. also, i'm thankful they've offered to cover the cost of all additional shipping. last weekend i boxed it up and prepared it to go back on the ups truck. i'm hopeful the hydroboost unit and the baer master cylinder will be arriving sometime soon... Attachment 53576 Attachment 53577 still moving forward! :thumbsup: danny |
Great build/thread Danny. :thumbsup:
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Attachment 54298 Attachment 54299 Attachment 54300 just about ready for another big push. always moving forward. thanks for checking in, danny :lateral: |
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...the pieces are coming together!!! i'm very happy to report that i have finally found a replacement 1968 door for the goat! Attachment 54441 Attachment 54442 Attachment 54443 judging from the photographs which have been sent to me this door appears to be in reasonably good condition- and it comes with complete guts and glass. ultimately it makes sense to me to retain the vent windows on account of the fact that it's one of the most readily identifiable distinguishing characteristics of the 1968 model. thanks for checking in on my project. danny :lateral: |
nice find, Danny. I personally vent windows from a nostalgia stand point. Glad to see you're keeping them.
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Attachment 56717 this project is still moving forward although it's been quite some time since my last update. i'm hoping to crank the engine by christmas. i will post again soon with more details. happy holidays to all! danny :lateral: |
I look forward to this post every time it shows up...
Any idea when you will be ready for paint? That one will tie you up time and money wise, however it will all be worth it in the end. Steady as she goes, keep up the good work! |
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...and i've been looking forward to bringing this thread up to date. Attachment 56799 at this point it's looking like blocking, fitting, etc. are all on the agenda immediately following start-up. paint is the next big piece of the puzzle. i would like to have the paint job completed by the end of march to leave myself at least a couple months to get the car road ready before summer rolls around. the last few days i've been putting the finishing touches on engine wiring and making other preparations to start the engine. i ran the oil pump priming tool for about 15 minutes at around 500 rpm last night, disabled the ignition coil, and cranked it over for the first time. the starter motor pinion gear engages nicely with the ring gear and i didn't hear any strange sounds. on friday i'll prime the fuel line and fire it up... best wishes to all for a happy holiday season! danny :lateral: |
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yesterday afternoon i ran the oil pump priming tool again for about 10 minutes, primed the fuel line, and started the engine.
writing this now, about 24 hours later, my heartbeat still hasn't completely stabilized. when i turned the key the carb sputtered and burped for about 3 seconds before combustion took off. i didn't even have my foot on the pedal but it ran up to about 4000 rpm in the following 3 seconds. at that point i knew something was wrong so i turned the key off. 10 seconds into the operation the key was in the 'off' position but the engine was still running at around 4000 rpm. i panicked. the sound was powerful unlike anything i have ever heard in my entire life. i switched the key back and forth a couple times with no effect, then i jumped out of the driver's seat and caught myself staring at the melting paint on the exhaust ports for about 2 seconds before disabling the ignition system. when the engine finally stopped the shop was filled with smoke and i was on the verge of a full blown heart attack. i do not know what happened. i do know i have a lot to learn. thanks for having a look at my thread. danny :lateral: |
The key not turning the engine off actually happening fairly frequently back in the day when these cars were fairly new. The cause is generally a feedback loop that keeps powering the ignition. You can test for this by simply unplugging the wire to the alternator. If the engine stops with the key off and by unplugging the alternator wire, you have a feedback loop.
If you have a feedback loop, You could leave the alternator unplugged while you trouble shoot the high idle rpm. Some causes are: - lack of a resistor in the GEN light line. - not properly converting the wiring when swapping from an external to internal regulator. This seemed to happen to many of my friends back in the early 70's. - improper conversion from a points type distributor to a electronic one. Again this happened to many of my friends. It been so long that I don't remember what was done to fix the problem, but the fix was very minor in all cases. I don't know if this applies to your engine, but many GM engines of the 60's had a thin metal plate between the carb gasket and the manifold. Leave the metal plate out and the engine won't idle. I had seen many of my friends leave the metal plate out and couldn't get their engine to run very well. Maybe someone with more recent experience will chime in. |
Subscribing to this thread...and seeing your recent engine-related post has me on high alert for the same reason with my car, haha.
Glad to see another build staying Pontiac powered! |
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i really appreciate your comments! the engine is running smooth tonight. next time i should remember to verify correct throttle cable adjustment before start-up! today i replaced the spark plugs and it started back up no problem. still need to troubleshoot key not turning the ignition off. also, there's a small coolant leak at the top of the water pump gasket and a small power steering fluid leak at the pump high pressure line out. Attachment 56858 despite a few interesting unexpected challenges recently i've been making some good progress. i'm happy to know the machine will run. thank you for having a look at my project! danny :lateral: |
Good to hear it's running good now. With the other posts you'll have some where to start looking for your run on problem.
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I'd have to go back and look at your ignition setup, but I'm in the process of familiarizing myself with the MSD 6AL box I'll be installing (eventually) on my car and it mentions engine run on, similar to your situation when using the MSD box with a GM HEI distributor. Basically describes that there is some sort of signal that must be bypassed, otherwise the MSD box continues providing spark. Kinda leading me to just do my engine break in without the 6AL and wire it in afterwards.
Never know, but it might be a good place to start your gremlin hunt. |
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the last time i started the engine there was a real high pitched squealing sound for about 5 seconds then it stopped and everything sounded fine. after i killed the iginition i crawled under the car and saw that the pinion gear had been stuck in the engaged position after the engine started and the ring gear completely shredded it- spun it right off the starter motor output shaft. Attachment 56882 i pulled the starter off, boxed it up, and sent it back to robbmc. those guys are great... they said it's a pretty common problem and that they would be happy to fix it- no problem. they also said it usually results from a problem with the wiring. since then i've been doing a little snooping around in the dash wiring and i happened to find a ground wire that i failed to tie into the master ground kit at the firewall. my hunch is that it provides ground to the ignition switch. i wonder if this array of problems could have been caused by an improperly grounded ignition switch? anyway, i'm going back through the wiring starting at the switch and having another close look at the wiring diagrams as well. my hope is to have the wiring thoroughly inspected and to get any issues resolved by the time the starter gets back to me. later today i'm meeting with straatsma to talk about the paint job. he's going to look at the car and hopefully offer some advice regarding fitment/gaps/etc. always moving forward! thanks for your interest in my project, and thanks for having a look at this thread! danny :lateral: |
Sounds like you're onto something! Good luck with the hunt!
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well, it seems like it's about time for another update as quite a bit has happened since my last post here.
robbmc replaced the pinion gear and returned the starter motor to me and didn't even charge me a penny. i can't say enough good things about those guys: great people, great products, and great service! the run-on issue was in fact being caused by a feedback loop making it's way from the alternator back to the ignition circuit thru the exciter wire. the guys at msd steered me toward a solution by informing me that the issue is covered in the instruction manual they provided with their ignition system... r.t.f.m. right? i spliced a diode into the alternator exciter wire (per the msd instructions) and the problem is solved. the ignition now starts and stops perfectly with no other apparent issues at this time. unfortunately, while in the process of troubleshooting that problem the 'small' coolant leak i first saw after initial start-up turned into a 'large' coolant leak. ultimately i had to remove the timing cover and spiff up the gaskets. Attachment 57484 of course i was less than thrilled with this situation especially since i had just finished putting the front clip together, but in the end the whole operation only took me about half a day of shop time. in other news i've been learning a lot about what it's going to take to get the various moldings and trim pieces test fit and installed properly. all the rusty metal in the front and rear glass channels was removed and replaced and none of the original trim studs remain so i ordered a bag of them from eastwood and i'll borrow a stud welder from straatsma to install them. i also need to drill new holes for the rocker trim clips and wheel well molding screws before the car goes to paint. also, i've still been doing a lot of detailing and painting of small parts, running wire for the front and rear lights, preparing the rear bumper for installation, troubleshooting various minor electrical bugs, and continuing to install insulation and vibration dampening. Attachment 57485 Attachment 57486 thanks for checking in on my progress. apologies for not posting more often. regardless, i am always moving forward... even if sometimes it's a case of 'one step forward then two steps back!' i'm trying my best to stay on top of this project and to keep mindful of the fact that for me it's more about the journey than anything else. i can see that every little step along the way is a special part of this experience (even if it is a step backward) and i've been trying to train myself to learn to appreciate it all. and to be straight-up there's even a little part of me that doesn't want this project to ever end. it's been such a big part of my life recently and i frankly don't really want it to be over. i sometimes find myself just spaced out standing in front of the car marveling at what it has become... haha, sorry to wax sentimental here guys. it's just all pretty huge for a guy like me. i've never really done anything like this and i never thought i could ever pull this off, especially after everyone i talked to about it told me not to try and do it! Attachment 57480 Attachment 57481 Attachment 57482 Attachment 57483 thanks again for having a look at my project and thanks to lateral-g for hosting this thread. i am very fortunate to be able to share this project with this community! cheers guys!!! danny :lateral: |
credit where credit is due!
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thank you very much for your insights as well! you were right on. lesson learned: start by reading the manual! cheers, danny |
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