Here is a thread on LS1tech with a bunch of fitment info on the Tru turn and the new holley engine and trans mounts. Hopefully it will give others an idea of what oil pans, motor mounts and headers can and cant be used with the tru turn setup.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...h-truturn.html

Question for Ridetech. What pitman and idler arms were used when you measured the bump steer? Stock my car came with two different length arms as did most 69's from what I can tell.

Thank you very much for all the detail you put into these posts. I wonder how the mid sized headers would work instead? Do you think they would still be in the way?

IT APPEARS that the Speedtech Ls headers will fit with no issues. I am just checking today if the ATS oil pan and our new frame stands for the engine mounts will work also.

Are the speedtech headers being produced again? I think the mid length headers would fit without a problem from what I have seen. Todd from holley may be able to confirm.

Very intersted in hearing your results, is that on a stock subframe our your subframe?

The new Hooker 2473-HKR headers will clear the Ridetech Tru Turn. Take a look at this thread:

http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/1...73-HKR-Install

18x9.5" with 6", excellent! and having a spacer or many spacers is a good tuning tool also, I use 2 spacers (0.095 in.each) 2 each side of my 9.5 rims with 5.5 back spacing to adjust turn-in (i think its called scrub radius) I dont really know, I do know on my camaro if I want a tighter turn in on certain tracks I remove both spacers and the car turns in faster like a beast almost twitchy...but faster longer tracks I add spacers as needed to slow down the turn in, for me...its a quick and dirty way to adjust so steering without changing toe-in or camber

Got any pics or videos of those real world 69's with the tru turn?

That is on a stock Sub frame. looking at the pictures the headers are nowhere even close to where the steering would be. the only question I need to answer is if the ATS oil pan will clear the truturn components and I will know that in the next couple days

Hopefully my wheels will be here soon so I can get them mounted up to see what mods will be needed to get them to fit. I'm also waiting on Speed Tech to see how there parts work with the Tru Turn before I order anything. My 570 horse LS3 should be here from Texas Speed tomorrow and I am talking with Bowler Transnmissions about getting an order together for a T56 and everything else needed to get it installed. It is amazing how quickly you can spend money on these things!

Thank you very much I can not wait to see what you find cuz I would like to order my setup soon

You are a brave soul. I'm still waiting on the visual evidence on a real life running driving 69 camaro.

Have you measured your backspace yet just to verify it is what you think it is?

See last post: http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/1...Grip-69-Camaro

I did measure. Im around 6.125-6.25 BS

Sweet thread by mr david on the other site. I posted up.some detail questions. Hopefully he will respond with some more info we can add to this thread.

His car sits low, I'm surprised it works.

Hello. Thought I should mention that I failed to mention the pictures I have provided thus far was not at ride height with the exception of the picture looking from the rear of he car toward the front. But you can't see much of the front in that picture. Sorry guys. In most of the pictures the air coils were deflated completely.

David

Time to come up with a plan for the fender lip! See post #56:
http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/1...76#post1061576

The verdict...well, part of it.
 

I set the car at a ride height of 23 7/8" and turned the tires lock-to-lock in both directions and the results are: Full right turn- driver's side has 1/4" clearance from the bottom of the fender to the tire and passenger has 1/8" clearance. On a full left turn the driver's side has just over 0" clearance and barely touches the sub frame. Passenger side has 1/4" clearance.

Fender clearance becomes an issue on compression of the outside suspension on a hard turn. The fender (at least mine) will need to be massaged to gain clearance so the tire doesn't rub when the car rolls over during the turn. The inner fender will need some work so that the top of the tire doesn't hit on compression as well.

All in all, I think things turned out better than I expected. I am using a 275 Toyo R888 with a 18x9.5 rim with 6" back space. Camber was set at 1.7ish negative.

My car is still in primer with original front fenders that have inner lips that have been bent a little somewhere along the way. I tentatively plan on cutting out a section of the fender lip and welding in a new one that angles almost straight up to gain clearance on hard turns. That plan could change!

Don't know if this will help you, but it is a technique I use to verify clearance on not only the wheel lip, but also things like inside fender panels, brake lines, the control arms and tie rod. I build a tire/wheel profile out of plywood and bolt it to the front and back of a plywood disk that replicates the tire diameter. Then I remove the springs and run the suspension through its entire travel, rotating the wheel to check clearance on various components. The technique has proven especially valuable with very high travel suspensions. Unfortunately, the solution to issues usually involves a chainsaw. LOL

Pappy

Attachment 47486

Any Updates? Any idea where your alignment sits? How many shims do you have? That would help me. I've stuffed another 3/8 worth of shims in the cross member but I cant put the car on the ground until I get my rear end back from the shop.

Anyone get 305's under the front yet? If mine was painted already I would pull the fenders. I want to run a square setup.

Fender flares are in your future. Keep in mind this will require you to start over in tuning spring rates, shock valving and swaybar rates because the centerline of the wheel/tire will be moved outboard by about 5/8"...along with the extra potential grip from the wider tire. Will it look cool? Probably. Will it be faster? Maybe. Eventually.

The good news is im still on 100% stock suspension so I can go any route with that. I am fairly certain the amount of work compared to how much lap time it will scrub is not worth it at all but I think it will look pretty good. Thanks for the input Bret, nice to see the big guys active on here!

Flintstones............... meet the Flintstones. Well THAT will never work...... it's WAY too Simple!

Can anybody give me an idea how many shims I need to hit -1.5 camber and 6 caster?

I know every car is different but id like to get some idea what it looks like

With the degree of variation from plant to plant and even within plants in the same model year there is no way to give you this estimate with any degree of reliability. Throw enough shims in there to clear the tire so it'll roll and take it to an alignment shop.

there's no set amount...due to factory tolerances back then, and after 40+ years everything is askew, on that note I put 2 1/8 shims on each bolt to start on my installs, hope that helps as a starter

...or buy some basic alignment tools and align it yourself. It's not that hard. http://www.ridetech.com/store/quickt...-22-wheel.html

Put 1/4" in the front and 1/2" in the rear and see how that looks, then do alignment.

I have an LS3 with a Corvette accessory drive system on it. It looks like I will be limited to about 3/4" of shims on the front of the A-arm on the drivers side before it starts to hit the PS pulley. Any chance I will need this many shims to get 1.5-2 degrees of negative castor?

Depending on the tolerances and condition of your subframe you should be able to get a bunch more caster with that many shims.

Oops...I meant camber.

What slugs you got in the upper arms?

Center hole slugs.

Place a two foot long carpenters level up against the tire. the part of the tire that contacts the level will be around 20" apart. Using those points, the tire will have a gap at the top of around 1/2" at 1.5 degees neg camber.

Thanks David. That's a great idea for a quick check. I was getting a little worried because my shims were stacking up over half an inch.

Wow my head is spinning after reading through this whole thread again. I just measured my 69 Camaro last night and ended up ordering 18x9's with 6.125" backspacing. I found on my car that a 6" BS would be ideal but erred on the side of caution and went with another 1/8" of BS figuring I can run a shim. (Edit: I am running the std C6 corvette brakes with the Kore3 hubs which reduces the front track width .24" per side.). I plan on running my car at the same ride height as the Blue Ridetech Camaro mentioned earlier in this thread, 23 3/8" from ground to wheel molding. Even with that, the tire looks like it will get into the outer fender with anything greater than 2" of compression from ride height at full lock. (Edit: this was tested at -1 degree of camber)

It looks like I will have to weld washers on the lower control arms to limit the turning radius just a hair, but I don't fore see it affecting drivability that much. Otherwise the tires will lightly hit the frame and sway bar.

Has anyone with a 69 Camaro and the Ridetech Truturn have any real world feedback on their tire/wheel combination?

Ridetech TruTurn on my '69
 

I have been running the Ridetech TruTurn on my '69 for 1 1/2 years. I went with a 18"x9" wheel with 5 3/4" B.S. (275 mm tire) but wish I had gone with 6" for a little more clearance. I am at 23 3/16" from ground to lip of wheel opening. My alignment settings are -0.8 Camber and +5 1/2 Caster. I drilled & tapped the lower control arms and added a bolt to limit turning radius and prevent rubbing on the sway bar and frame. On occasion the tire rubs the top lip of the fender at full lock if also navigating over rough terrain (parking in a field). I just touch up the paint under there a couple times a year.

Gary

I have a 69 nova with 383 stroker , hooker super comp headers . I want to
Get the true then set up to guy a 275 under my car .... Is there going to be any issues due to my oil Pan or headers ? And if you get tru turn do you have to you the muscle bar sway bar or can i still use my dse sway bar

What oil pan are you currently using?

The Ridetech front sway bar will probably add additional turning radius over the DSE bar.