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Yes, a lot of moving parts. That will translate into several late nights next week. :)
The Falkens are the Azenis RT-615K. Sizes are what Flash said: 275/35/18 and 315/30/18. I bought them off of eBay from Discount Tire Direct, but it turns out they have a website at which the prices are a little bit cheaper... Discount Tire Direct Direct Link to the Falkens |
Bad day on the Dyno
Thanks for the tire info
Good luck on getting it up a running Bob |
Hey Bryan and Bob, i just got those same Falkens and sizes mounted onto my Forgelines from Dublin Big-O for $1482, tires and mounting (although they may have done the mounting for free as i do a fair amount of business with them). Ithought the price was very fair for just the tires...
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Looks like you are making progress Bryan. Tough to be patient. We are struggling with the same on KLRBRDs suspension/frame rail redo. Parts delays and the weather have us anxious as well.
Since the Rivals are not available we are considering the 315 Falkens or PS2s. Appreciate you sharing the link. Good stuff. Hope to see you're GG's in a couple weeks or at the USCA event at TMS at the end of the month. Let's get a pic of the Birds together this time. :knock: |
Some positive progress!
I picked up the engine at the end of the day from TSP yesterday. The build there took longer than I had hoped, but at least it's back in my hands now. Here she was when I picked it up and dropped it off at Eric's: http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps6g2o5lvo.jpg First order of business this morning was to drill and tap the steam vent ports for my setup I put together on the original motor. Unfortunately I forgot to do this to the heads in my rush to get them to TSP, so Eric and I were discussing options for either removing the heads or doing it on the motor. We did them on the motor the first time, so we decided to try that again. I taped up the water pump holes and the temp probe holes on each head, then using an air hose I blew air into one port while Eric drilled/tapped the other. This worked great, we could see the shavings coming out instead of falling in. It was also surprising how much more flow there was after doing this. While the point of these holes isn't to flow water regularly, I think that opening them up a little will help prevent any air bubble problems. Here's a pic of the setup once done: http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...psajmnlksb.jpg I expected the pushrods and rockers to be installed by TSP, but they weren't. So I did that also. They had confirmed the lengths, but I double checked that they were what I wanted. Everything came out good on that front: http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...psupgn51v6.jpg Next I installed the intake. I was surprised at how well I was able to get the ports to match up after torquing everything, I couldn't get a picture of those, but here's one of the intake in place: http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...pstxlezsvb.jpg Then the clutch. I'm using a setup from Monster in which they build a flywheel to adapt the new C7 LT1 twin disc cluthc for LS use. It's a pricey assembly, but it should hold the power I'm making without any trouble. I expect a bit better pedal feel also. http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...psckcfwf9w.jpg And bellhousing, after giving it a bath: http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...psoszqfp1u.jpg Last step for the day was to reassemble the Wegner front drive setup. PS pump, AC brackets and water pump installed. I'll put the alternator and AC compressor on once it's back in the car, as I need access to the bolts on the heads to attach the chains for the hoist. I forgot to take a final picture for the day. I was hoping to have a little more done today, but that's where I am. Tomorrow morning Eric and I are going to get the motor in so that I can continue work on the accessories, new oil lines, and all of the wiring that needs to be done. If I'm lucky, we can stab the T56 also, but I need to rebuild the slave cylinder first. It looks like one of the o-rings is leaking, so we have a kit to replace those. So while not coming along at quite the same pace as that other 48-hour build, I hope to have this one running within 48 hours or so myself. :) |
Well you know the car and you will know it even more, making it much quicker for reassembly (as if you didn't already know this). But great seeing it come together. Good luck with reassembly....Looks like i'll be purchasing the monster phase II as my pplate fried at da track last weekend....:G-Dub:
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C'mon man! The 48hr Bird will be awesome if you can pull it all together. Hope you get it done man. We are rooting for you. Need to get that pic of our TAs together next weekend.
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Bad day on the Dyno
Ben running a centerforce in the Pantera
for over 10 years. Same clutch with about 600 hp Have one in the bird with no issues either. Over 700hp and 640 lbs of torque. Tires are the thing that lets go Just saying no need for fancy clutches Bob |
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The motor looks great! Nice work.
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glad to see it coming together for you, Bryan!
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When on the track - you DO NOT want to use the engine compression (thus downshifting and using the clutch) for slowing the car.... As Bob Bondurant explained to me one time - Motors are to make the car go forward - Clutches are used to change gears - and BRAKES are used to slow the car down. Thus the "heel and toe" rev matching technique used to raise engine RPM's to match the required gear change... with all that done before entering the corner - all the while using the BRAKES as needed to make said corner. Not saying you did or didn't do this - just saying that clutches will take MAJOR abuse at racing speeds on a track when using them for "compression" gear changes. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Glad you got the motor back and are moving forward Bryan!!! |
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Like you said, "consumable parts".....but man its fun!!!!! Hope you geter done this weeekend just to take a load off.... |
Phew, what a long day... I was so busy that I only remembered to stop and take pictures once...
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...psc7edmhue.jpg At this point, the engine is in the car and everything is attached / assembled. I need 1 piece of fuel hose for my PCV catch can, a new lower radiator hose, and an AN-fitting for the new PS pump to finish all of the required plumbing to fire the car. That stupid fitting cost me $35 to overnight it from Summit. The price of convenience I suppose... Tomorrow morning, Eric is going to help me re-stab the transmission, and I will get the rest of the exhaust installed. Barring any problems, we should fire it up for the first time tomorrow afternoon. For the moment, I have the oil thermostat blocked off using the stock block off plate, as there's no point is running the breakin oil through the cooler and new external filter. I've made 2 of the required 4 lines to route the Accusump oil plumbing. I can't finish the last 2 until I reinstall the thermostat. In addition to the overnighted fitting, I also have some blocks coming tomorrow which will allow us to mount the Accusump cylinder itself. We have a little work to do on this, but I expect we'll get it done before I leave next week for Fort Worth. A few other things we have to do: bleed the clutch and brakes, clearance one of the brackets on the rear suspension to the Ridetech shock, finish the wiring to the Accusump pressure switch, and update the Holley tune. Hopefully tomorrow's update will include lots of :D and :cheers: |
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Looks good! I'm wondering about your cam specs.....how much lift because it looks like you have the stock rocker covers make sure everything has clearance especially the rocker to oil baffles!
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Well, today did not turn out exactly as planned. We were thwarted by 0.1", literally...
It all started well enough. Eric and I installed the transmission which went smoothly. As these things tend to do, it all took a bit longer than I expected, but we were trying to be thorough and keep everything clean like it originally was. After the transmission was in, we stuck the driveshaft and reassembled the exhaust. Next up was dropping the car to the ground and finishing up the plumbing which remained. PS hoses, radiator hose, PCV hose. Then pour in some fluids and look for leaks. So far, so good. Finally, time to reconnect the battery. I do so, get in and flip the switch, and voila! Fuel pressure... I needed to confirm the program in the Holley HP, which we did, then reconnected the O2 sensor. Sensor readings looked ok, gauges were ok, and it was time to see if she would fire. So I pushed in the clutch, turned the switch, and the engine started to spin. I let off the switch pretty quickly, and I had a strange kick back through the clutch pedal. Hmm, never had that happen before. I was about to hit it again, but Eric talked me into checking to make sure all was ok. I'm glad we did... I'm using the hydraulics from my original American Powertrain kit, which consists of the Hydramax slave cylinder. The bearing moves forward and back on a shaft, and it's kept in the correct position by a ~2" long stud. It needed to be about 0.1" shorter. When I measured for the throwout bearing clearance with the new LT1 clutch, I was in the right clearance range of 0.100" - 0.200". But it seems that there is a ring on the outside of the fingers that is further away from the flywheel than just the pressure plate fingers. The stud on the clutch slave was at the same height as the throwout bearing face, but 2" from the input shaft centerline. Long story short, the ring on the clutch caught the stud and snapped it... http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...psuwy03gq8.jpg After some cursing and moments of despair, Eric and I hopped on the computer and started searching for solutions. A local Chevy dealer had an F-Body slave in stock, but we needed a way to connect up my hydraulic lines. Eric knew the parts we needed, but at 4:00 on a Friday, how am I going to get them? Turns out a call to Speedway and a $65 Saturday Delivery shipping charge later, and I'll have the fittings tomorrow morning. So we have the pieces on the way to rectify this. After getting past that panic, we started looking closer at the broken stud. Eric determined it was just a piece of mild steel that we could probably remove and replace. He was able to extract the snapped off piece, and we decided that we could use a bolt to replace it. So I picked up a 4" long Grade 8 5/16" bolt which we then cut to the correct (shorter!) length to give us 1/4" of clearance while still providing plenty of clearance to the clutch ring. We put it back together and measured everything twice to be sure we will have the correct clearance. We then decided to call it a night. While we hated not to get her started today, we would hate it more if we rushed to put it back together and made a mistake. We'll start fresh tomorrow... We did find one other problem. My new PS pump reservoir is cracked and leaking. I'm pretty pissed about this actually. I ordered a new pump from AGR to match my rack and pinion I purchased from them last year. It took a couple of weeks for them to build it and send it. The thing looks like it was all beat up. I should have complained, but I've been dealing with other things of higher priority. Sure enough, the damned thing leaks. Thankfully we still have my other pump on-hand, so we are going to swap the reservoir from it to this pump to take care of it tomorrow. That means draining the fluid and making another mess though (I'm a little tired of smelly fluids!). So... Hopefully tomorrow we'll have better luck and get everything fired up. Onward and upward! |
Good post Bryan! Wow.... hate to say it but sometimes that's just hot rodding. Makes me think back to the days of 4 speeds and Z bars and mechanical throw out bearings... it was SOOOOOOO simple! Seems to me BRAKES have become simple and clutches have become complicated. I used to hate drum brakes with all those damn springs and leaking cylinders... and the filth of it all....
Time for some beer and BBQ! |
Sorry to hear about the problems, but glad you found a quick way to get the parts you need to fix it. I hope its a good day for you today.
The motor looks great in there! |
Quoting from the movie classic "Frankenstein":
It's alive! It was another long day in Eric's shop today. It's amazing how we pulled the transmission out in about 45 minutes last night yet it took us about 5 hours to put it back in today. That's what happens when you are meticulous and want it done right though! I mentioned yesterday that we had a leak in the PS pump reservoir. So first thing I switched the reservoir from my old pump to the new pump. I put everything back together and filled up the system, then started working on the transmission. A few minutes later, Eric noticed we had a drip under the car. Danged if the assembly wasn't leaking again! GRRR! So we took it back off the car, disassembled it again, and started checking the reservoir for leaks. While it looked a bit questionable around the edge seam, it certainly didn't look like it should be leaking the way it was. We decided that it must be the o-ring between the pump and the reservoir. So Eric sealed the edge with some black RTV and we replaced the o-ring again, then reassembled and reinstalled. That also meant that the AN fitting I overnighted from Summit on Thursday was no longer needed. Sigh... We next moved back to the throwout bearing / slave cylinder. I spent last night trying to decide whether to use the new GM unit I purchased or to stick with the Hydramax which I already had with our fix. Eric and I discussed it for a while, and we decided to stick with our fix. We have no reason to doubt it will work just fine, and it saaved us some time of modifying the new GM slave hydraulic fittings. One concern that I'd had with the Hydramax yesterday was that it felt really soft. We thought we had done a good job of bleeding the unit by pushing fluid up from the bottom. We determined that maybe we hadn't really gotten all of the air out. So before installing everything, we turned the transmission on its side to get the AN fittings pointing upwards and bled the unit with a MitiVac. We felt like we were able to get it filled pretty well. So then back under the car we went. We lifted the unit up, and it just slid right in flush to the bellhousing. I don't think either of us have had one go in so smoothly. Finally a break :) Then we started the fun process of installing my crossmember / torque arm mount. This is one hefty unit that combines the JRS torque arm crossmember with Eric's added transmission mount. The dang thing weighs about 25 pounds and takes 20 bolts to completely install it (I'm not kidding). Alone it takes 30 minutes or so to get in. Wiring connectors attached, drive shaft installed, Redline fluid pumped into the T56 again (aside, I'm sick and tired of wearing all of the smelly fluids this car takes!), and exhaust reinstalled. At this point we pumped fluid back up through the clutch slave cylinder into the master cylinder and reservoir. After we got it full, I hopped in the car and Eric did a normal bleed procedure. We hoped that between the 2 we got all the air out. Based on where we started and where we ended, it felt a lot better. Another aside. I want to give props to Steve, the owner at Monster Clutch. I emailed him about 9:00 tonight to ask a question about my slave travel, and he replied in about 5 minutes. He's been really helpful to be through this process of selection and installation. So now we have everything bolted back together, fluids all reinstalled, it's time to try and fire her up again. I get in and turn the switch. Spin, spin, spin. No fire, but at least things sound ok. It took a few more seconds of spinning before I got any oil pressure, but that's the joy of starting an LS for the first time. Finally, I touched the gas pedal and got a short fire for about 1 second. Pressure jumped which was good, but she died quickly. Time to jump into the tune. I added a lot of fuel during starting, as we weren't smelling anything at all. The next time I tried, she lit right up. Woo hoo!!! :hapdance: We let her run for a couple of minutes, varied the speed up and down between 1500 and 2000 rpm while watching the Holley gauge screen to make sure things looked ok. Everything looks good, up until it starts to get a little hot. That's my fault. Apparently I have screwed up something in my wiring when I installed a relay for my Accusump, so the Holley cannot control the fans correctly at the moment. One is trying to run all the time, and the other not at all. So it got up to running temp, then as it climbed I shut it down around 215. We lifted the car up, and everything looks good, except we left the radiator cap off while running and burped some DexCool out (another nasty fluid). We cleaned that up but didn't find any other leaks or problems. So we dropped her back down and started her up again. It was harder to start this time, but she's running. Same as before, I ran her until the temps got high and shut her down. No leaks. We did this a third time, but the engine was pretty hot already when I tried to start it. I say tried, because it really didn't want to start. I definitely have some tuning work to do, but I'm surprised it's proving so much harder since I didn't change anything in the tune related to this. By now it was about 7:30, and we were beat, so we called it a night. Tomorrow I'm going to try and mostly take a break, but I do want to get a few little things done which I need to do... I'll do one more heat cycle, then change the oil and filter as speced by TSP. I need to fix my electrical problems if I can (at least diagnose it, as I may have to order some relay socket pins), and work on my tune some more. If I get those all done then I'll drop the hood on and take her out for the first drive. I'm hopeful I can do that as I need to drive it as much as I can on Monday to break in the engine and clutch. Tuesday and part of Wednesday it's going to rain here, so that would be a good time to do the Accusump install and finish up things like charging the AC and bleeding the brakes. I'm still planning to hit the road Thursday morning if at all possible to get to Fort Worth for GG next weekend. The one thing I'm not sure I'll have time to do is to get a tune done before that trip. I may just have to rely on setting the correct target AFR and let the Holley do its thing. (I'll set a conservative ignition map to be safe) Just a couple of pictures for today. Here is our fixed stud for the clutch slave: http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps5nkh3wtc.jpg And a shot before buttoning it all back up (note the loose belt): http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...psmrjn4tu0.jpg One more thing I forgot that I did today was to add some rack spacers to my rack and pinion to hopefully solve my rubbing problem. I already had 2 in there, so I added a third and have about 1/2" of clearance now: http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...psedizqbbl.jpg Time for some sleep! |
Bryan, great to hear. I can sense the excitement in your writing. Hope you get some drive time before the GG event. Keep us posted.
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Nice progress, glad it went well for you. That fix on the slave cylinder came out great.
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On your start programming -- look for a "start RPMS" -- Might be called something different in the Holley program... Sometimes they can be set too high.
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Short update tonight, I'm beat... I planned to spend 2, maybe 3 hours working today, and stopped at 9.
Things I did today:
I also found that the Holley was pulling timing because my Air Temp sensor wasn't connected, which was causing it to idle rough. I disabled that for now, and my idle is much better. The clutch feels good as I backed out of the shop and ran through the parking lot a bit before she got hot. I'm happy with our fix and decision to stick with the Hydramax. Tomorrow, diagnose and fix the engine temp problem and go for a drive. Then drive some more, and some more, and then some more. :) I also need to make some phone calls to arrange tuning and b!tch to AGR about their pump reservoir... Hopefully tomorrow will be the driving day! |
B - I know you can easily pull 'em, but be careful on a tight AutoX with that many spacers due to reduced steering angle. I'm pretty sure first and second gens use the same length rack, but I could be wrong. I had to go to zero and use my sway bar as a steering stop (yeah I did that). You have a diff sway bar, so that 'approach' won't work in your case. Hope this helps and congrats on the progress.
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Ron,
Previously, my lower control arms have been acting as my steering limiters, and I have a rub mark on each wheel to show for it. Unfortunately the LCA's are wider than they probably need to be in this critical clearance area which is why I'm trying to limit the travel at the rack. I'll definitely be paying attention to any differences though, and I'll remove them if I need to. I already had 2 on each side and was rubbing, so I didn't add a lot more limitation. I wish I had more clearance here, as I would consider a step up in front tire/wheel size. Those 275's look so small. ;) I'm sure I could fit a 285 or 295 on my wheel and still be ok, but there isn't one available in the Falken line. |
!@#%!@^&#%# mother *&^!@*#&^@! AGR power steering pump!!!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...psxrxh9wbx.jpg :bigun2: http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...pssoeta2dz.jpg Ok, deep breath and rewind. Today was actually a pretty good day for the most part. I got to the shop this morning and the first thing I did was open the radiator. It had dropped about 6", so some air had bubbled its way out. That's good, hopefully my hot condition last night was just a big bubble. I pulled the upper hose and filled it up until it wouldn't take any more, then topped off the radiator. Started her up and let her run. Temp sat right between 200 and 205 as I expected. Well, almost as I expected, as the fans never shut off, but it never got hotter either. More on that later. I tweaked on the tune a little more, experimenting with the timing and fuel at idle. I'm no expert here, and this is where I need a real tuner to get his hands on the car. But right now she's idling around 800 rpm with a nice lope and no stumble off idle, so I'm happy enough with that. I also don't have the overly rich smell that I've always had with the car before now. I attribute that to the new O2 sensor. After checking her over one more time, I took off for my first drive. About 5 miles, just to get a feel for her. Just so happened that Steve stopped by during lunch, so I came back and picked him up for another short drive. Things are feeling good: clutch feels great (really happy with this change), throttle is responsive, traction is likely to be a problem. ;) All's good. After lunch, I went for a longer drive. I wanted to see if the coolant temp would drop with some air moving through the radiator. I also wanted to work on the tune some more. I put about 40 miles on her, and the fans never shut off. I did, however, do some tuning on the knock sensor and timing. I was able to make it ping, then dial that out by enabling the sensor and setting the sensitivity. Again, good enough for now, will do more on a dyno. I've decided the temps aren't coming down because I don't have the oil cooler hooked up. My oil temps have always been too low, but I questioned if it was the gauge or the actual temps. Looks like it was the actual temps. Without the cooler, I'm seeing the oil temp between 200 and 220 as I would expect. I realized the reason the fans/coolant temp aren't coming down as far as I expect is because the oil is keeping the engine warmer now. So once I reinstall the cooler, that will help. I also question whether my Mocal thermostat is ever closing. I somehow doubt it now... I came back to Eric's to take a break and check all my fluids. When I popped the hood, I noticed that my 6 rib belt now only has 4 ribs! When we started looking, we see that the snap-ring that holds the front bearing of the PS pump in place is just hanging there, and the pulley is about 1/8" too far forward. I run out to get a new belt and Eric took the pump off. When I got back, he said the pulley basically fell off when he removed the belt. I'm damned lucky that didn't happen while I was driving! We looked hard at the AGR pump, trying to decide what to do, and we finally decided the best option was to just scrap it. The bearing won't seat down in far enough to install the snap ring, we're not sure why because the measurements say that it should. It appears that whomever assembled it thought it was ok too, but the ring must not have been seated. AGR sent me a beat up reservoir that leaked and a pump that could have sent a pulley through my hood if I had continued driving as I had planned today. Consider me pissed... As I went to reinstall the belt, I saw the idler pulled was also destroyed as shown above. I didn't realize that pulley was just plastic. So a second trip to O'Reilly netted me the pulley which I installed on the idler arm. It's all back together now. After we took care of that, I started on the mounts for my Accusump. Here is the monstrous and overkill clamp I bought to mount it to my sway bar tube: http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...pstarn78t6.jpg And the clamp attached to the tube: http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...psbboodabk.jpg It's going to be a tighter fit in there than I realized, but it does look like it's going to fit. I may replace these clamps with the smaller version down the road, but for now, they will work. I'm probably adding 30 pounds of weight ahead of the front axle centerline, which I am not thrilled about, but it's just where it will best fit. I'll finish that up tomorrow while Eric does a few other things. We should wrap everything up tomorrow night if we don't hit anymore snags... |
Whats the solution for the AGR pump? Different brand? same dims?
Watchin you go thru all this bs (and i've been watching your build for what 3+years now?) and it makes me feel better, cause i though i was the only one where sometimes it feels like nothing can go right. But when you think about the thousands of parts on our rides, it only takes ONE for something to go awrie!!!!!! Then the odds dont seem like too much.... Good luck bud!!! FRom sunny ca |
Glad to hear you caught the belt and pump before it did any major damage.
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Glad I can help you out there. :) I think most of us have a thrashing like this at least once. I just over documented mine this time. :-) Btw, nice job at the weather. It's supposed to rain the next few days and possibly the weekend! Hoping not... |
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TOW is home and parked in my garage for the first time in 2 months... Accusump is installed and appears to be working (charges, and pre-lubes). I gave up on making the wiring look nice for this week, but everything is functional at least.
Eric did some work to clearance the driver's side shock by modifying the Watt's link mount on the axle. It had been rubbing, which is not good. May look into replacing the shock body down the road. Here's a couple of pictures of the Accusump mounted before reinstalling the fan shroud. It's really a tight fit in there (and some clearancing was required), but everything sits nicely in just the right place. Time for sleep! http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...psxkdrqeds.jpg http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...pse6v7wu9c.jpg http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...psu46n074v.jpg |
Congrats, Bryan!
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Great to hear that your ready. It looks like a good spot for the Accusump.
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We made it!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...psa1g6wfao.jpg Eric and I were working until about 7:00 last night, charging the AC and bolting on the belly pan and subframe cross bar. I got her all washed and and loaded and ready to leave this morning. The drive up was uneventful, which is the best word I can use! :) I made a couple of stops along the way, one of which was to AGR since they were about 1/2 mile off of my path. (they will be replacing the PS pump, and apparently I need one after he showed me the metal floating around in the fluid of my current one) TOW drive great up the highway, smooth at speed. I can lug the engine down into the 1700 rpm range and it doesn't complain at all. Part throttle response feels better than before as well. I haven't run it hard yet, just a couple of 6k+ rpm blasts. Tomorrow on the autocross course she'll get a good workout! I did have one panic moment as I was driving to dinner. I hear something hit the firewall or the toe board, not sure which, but it didn't sound good. I stopped and looked everything over but didn't see any obvious problem. After I returned to the hotel, I grabbed a flashlight and started looking closer. I found one of my hose clamps had come apart, I must not have gotten it tight. The sound I hear was the other half leaving the car. I was happy this half stayed in place so that I could find it and relief my concern! http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...pstv6u5cpg.jpg At this point I'm hoping the weather is going to hold out for us tomorrow! The registration for this event is apparently really low, as evidenced by my number above (I was over 1800 last fall). I think the forecast is keeping people away. We still have a good chance of at least 1 of the days being good though! I'm hopeful... |
I think it's time to write the final chapter to my "Bad day on the dyno" thread...
I returned home last night from the Fort Worth Spring Good Guys event. 480 miles or so on this trip, and everything is running great still. I have a couple of oil leaks from the new Accusump plumbing which I need to correct his week, but outside of that, TOW is running very well! Compared to the previous 402 which I was running, this engine feels a bit more responsive to the throttle, runs just as smooth down the highway, and spins up quicker than before on the autocross course. At this point I'm really happy with the combination which I've put together. Here are the final results from the autocross event this weekend. I was actually in the lead through 3 rounds, but then Chris Jacobs showed up and clobbered me. My best run of the weekend was lost due to not making the stop zone, but it still wouldn't quite have been good enough for second. http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...slogay20h.jpeg It's time for some driver improvements! The car definitely has the potential for better times... I still need to get the Holley HP setup tuned for the new motor. In the meantime, I've been learning more and more about tuning it myself, and at this stage it's running pretty well. I am curious what the dyno will show once we get that done. I want to thank a few people from this forum for their help over the last couple of months: Tim, Steve, Eric specifically. Tim educated me on some options for what I could do to the LS7 which started me down the to that block. Steve and I have been bouncing ideas off of each other about the engine and our respective Accusump setups. And Eric for all of his work and pushing with me last week to get her together to make the trip. It would have never happened without his help and support!!! Time to go wash all of the gunk off of TOW from the rainy roadtrip and get her ready for next weekend's USCA event. |
Congratulations on a good first outing. Nice to hear it all went well for you and you had a good time and got home safe. :thumbsup:
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Congrats, Bryan! Really glad to hear the engine performed well for you.
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Glad to hear the new engine works out for you. Hope to see you and Steve (gerno) this weekend at USCA.
Tu |
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