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Thanks again Ron for sharing all of this. :trophy-1302: |
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Seriously I believe that is the simplest question Ron has ever answered since I've seen any of his posts. |
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I'll clear my calendar...
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3 step headers --- Nice clean simple - this should do nicely!
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Looking good my friend. :popcorn2:
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Awesome! Definitely a cool build to watch come together!
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Thanks Matt!!! Hey!! Make ya a deal on that White Big Wing car for your rental fleet.... Take that blower off and let it be your lower HP option. :trophy-1302: |
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https://memegenerator.net/img/instan...dy-got-one.jpg I'll make you a deal on a car that's just like Big Wing, but without the big wing, and supercharger. Its my dad's go to rental car (don't tell him I mentioned getting rid of it). |
Great seeing you today Greg !!!
For those following along, Greg talked Gwen into driving him on a 20 hour round trip for a 2 hour seat-pedal-steering-switches fitting. Gwen was being a trooper though ! |
You're building him a super duper race car and he can't drive ?
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He'll be done with his treatment before we test the new car at the end of June. |
Best wishes Greg, go kick some @$$!
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Great to see you and Randy yesterday Ron! Always fun to share a few laughs.
The car is STELLAR!! OMG!! Even Gwen thought it was cool. Those kinds of road trips are what memories are made of..... Gwen and I have many of them over the 45+ years we've been together. Got home at midnight last night.... I'm up and having coffee and in a bit I'm going to jump in my brand new pick up and make a 6 hour round trip to Boise and back... run some clean fuel thru it. It's only allowed in this thread because it's the tow rig for this build..... Thank you my friend Wes Rydell.... Attachment 65576 Quote:
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Go get um, Greg. See you on track.
Pappy |
Having traveled to Jackson WY several times, I can say the thought of spending the night in a casino in Winnemucca, Elko, or Jackpot vs. my own bed probably gave your wife motivation to drive through the night.
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She laughed so hard when I read this to her!! OMG...... And you are EXACTLY SPOT ON!! We did spend the night in RENO at the Grand Sierra..... which is every bit as bad!!! We checked in -- got room service -- got up the next morning and beat it out of there. HA! Wouldn't even have breakfast there! |
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Car Year & Model: 70 Ford Mustang Fastback
Competing in: Track Car & Occasional NASA TTU races Front Clip/Suspension: GT Track-Warrior Rear Clip/Suspension: GT Track-Warrior Engine: Track-Warrior 3 LS7 700 HP Trans: PPG Sequential Shift T56 6-Speed Brakes: StopTech 14 ST60/ST40 Owner: Greg Weld Builder: Randy Chastain One Off Customs I've been so busy with client projects I haven't posted photos for quite awhile. In that time a LOT of progress has taken place on Greg Weld's 70 Fastback Mustang Track-Warrior. Here are a LOT of photos. Feel free to ask questions about any part of the build. RR Air Jax shown. The 4 bosses welde to the main hoop are for the battery box. You can see the slotted lower 3-Link mounts. This lets us get the lower links perfectly level for zero rear steer. And we can adjust them up for positive rear steer (turn better on tight corners), or down for counter rear steer (more rear grip on fast sweeping corners). http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...1&d=1526669437 Here you see the whole powertrain inside the tunnel, as well as the exhaust. All of the exhaust will be coated inside & out with Jet-Hot's 2000° thermal barrier coatings to contain the heat inside the exhaust, where it needs to be, while protecting the transmission & driver in the cockpit. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...2&d=1526669537 Our Slotted steering column mount lets us place the steering column in the best location. We use 3 u-joints in our columns. One at the rack, the second you see to the right of the mount & a third, just inside the firewall. This allows us to make the steering column "tilt" inside the cockpit to driver preference, without affecting the mounting location in the engine bay. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...3&d=1526669767 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...4&d=1526669799 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...5&d=1526669834 The RSRT tabs on the front of the monster 2.5" OD sway bar tube hold either 2" or 3" poly bushings for the radiator to sit in. The bracket with the 10 little holes will mount the front end "receiver" ... and can be adjusted up or down after install. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...6&d=1526669872 There are something like 72 lightweight Dzus fastener tabs on the bottom side of the chassis to mount the smooth belly pan & diffuser. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...7&d=1526669933 Just mocking up steel floor panels after the pedals are all in place. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...8&d=1526669957 Every shop needs a "Shop Dog". Layla is the most "chill" dog ever. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...9&d=1526670019 The aluminum panel INSIDE the cockpit is rubber mounted to insulate the ECU & other electronics from NVH. The two light tabs in the upper right mount the ARE dry sump breather. The 4 below ... two on the cross tube & two on the frame that are hard to see ... mount the ARE 2.7 gallon dry sump tank. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...0&d=1526670056 Passenger side cockpit http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...1&d=1526670083 Pedals (Brake & Clutch are Wilwood) Throttle is a GM Corvette DBW http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...2&d=1526670132 Battery Box installed. We use a zinc "removable" battery box because ... 1. Zinc will "resist" battery corrosion longer than paint or powder coat 2. Eventually, it will corrode & look like crap ... and a new one can be bolted in. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...3&d=1526670181 More to come. |
Car Year & Model: 70 Ford Mustang Fastback
Competing in: Track Car & Occasional NASA TTU races Front Clip/Suspension: GT Track-Warrior Rear Clip/Suspension: GT Track-Warrior Engine: Track-Warrior 3 LS7 700 HP Trans: PPG Sequential Shift T56 6-Speed Brakes: StopTech 14 ST60/ST40 Owner: Greg Weld Builder: Randy Chastain One Off Customs Greg Weld came & sit in the car for a seat, belt, pedal, switches, fire handle, steering & shifter fitting. The man, the myth, the legend that is Greg Weld. LOL In all seriousness, it was great to see Greg. For those that don't know, he is battling cancer ... again ... in a different area. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...7&d=1526671062 Fitting went well. We work out seat position first ... relative to the pedals. Then we dialed in the steering wheel location ... switches, fire pull handle, shifter, etc. The orange thingy in the upper left is the Air Jax "Wand". You push it into the fitting to lift the car. Then tap it & pull it out to lower the car. This particular system is my favorite, because it uses Big Bore jacks. That let's us utilize lower nitrogen pressures. 150 psi lifts a 2900# car. 200 psi lifts a 3850# car. 250 psi lifts a 4800# car. In this photo, you can also see the fire suppression bottle & the FAST driver cooling system to provide cool water to the driver's cool suit & cool air to the driver's helmet. Anyone that has done this knows the cockpit can be 40° hotter than the air temperature on track days. Keeping the driver cool ... to be safe, drive better & have more fun ... costs about $1500. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...8&d=1526671080 Two things have saved more lives than ANY other safety device in the last 20 years ... HANS devices & full containment seats like you see here. This one is a heavy duty ButlerBuilt road race seat spec'd by me, with head & shoulder supports (to prevent injury/death in side impacts) and set back headrest (to provide room for HANS). Best protection available for $899. See them HERE. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...9&d=1526671115 You can't see the 4 slotted brackets we use on the chassis to allow the seat to be moved fore or aft by loosening & re-tightening the bolts. This does require a new rear seat support to be made, as we don't slot those typically. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...0&d=1526671148 |
More build update photos ...
Feel free to ask questions about any part of the build. NiCopp brake lines go through frame with special 2" long bulkheads. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...4&d=1526670258 You can see all the triangulation & braces in the engine bay. Most folks don't realize this is where the most force & flex happens. When this area is rigid ... the tires see the FULL load of the force & create optimum grip. Any deflection is this area REDUCES tire loading & grip. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...5&d=1526670309 Body bolted to the chassis just for mock up. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...6&d=1526670367 If you pay close attention to the body mods, you can see how aero smooth this body is & how clean the airflow is over the roof & too the massive rear wing we'll run. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...7&d=1526670392 Firewall mock up, before stepping the sheetmetal. Firewall, floor & rear bilkhead are are STEEL, for increased fire protection. We seal every seam with a special fire retardant 3M product. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...8&d=1526670430 Dash mock up. (It will be capped on the ends & mount to the final X door bars once they are installed). http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...9&d=1526670494 Firewall sheet metal in place. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...0&d=1526670525 More firewall sheet metal. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...1&d=1526670558 Interior sheet metal showing the trans tunnel. Notice the U-shaped tube that the steering column mount clamps to. This clamp is easy to adjust to move the steering column/wheel up or down. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...2&d=1526670584 Rear bulkhead sheet metal & rear deck sheet metal being mocked up. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...3&d=1526670624 Different angle http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...4&d=1526670660 Basic dash before Autometer digital dash & style added. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...5&d=1526670690 Better angle of rear deck sheet metal. The three tabs on the right are for the seat & harness mounts http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...6&d=1526670721 |
Car Year & Model: 70 Ford Mustang Fastback
Competing in: Track Car & Occasional NASA TTU races Front Clip/Suspension: GT Track-Warrior Rear Clip/Suspension: GT Track-Warrior Engine: Track-Warrior 3 LS7 700 HP Trans: PPG Sequential Shift T56 6-Speed Brakes: StopTech 14 ST60/ST40 Owner: Greg Weld Builder: Randy Chastain One Off Customs Even MORE photos of the build. Custom Headers & Exhaust here ... * The headers & compete exhaust will be coated by Jet-Hot with their 2000° thermal barrier INSIDE & out. This provides a double layer of thermal barrier to keep the exhaust heat in the exhaust, and much less heat radiating to the transmission & cockpit. http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...1&d=1526672097 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...2&d=1526673351 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...3&d=1526673375 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...4&d=1526673418 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...5&d=1526673471 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...6&d=1526673542 The headers & exhaust are a truly "Tuned" System. I utilized an exhaust flow program that allows us to input every variable about the engine, cam, etc ... and know where the "pulses" are. This system allows me to design headers with the optimum primary tube length & diameter. In this case, these are 3-step headers. With the initial tube size 1-3/4", then steps up to 1-7/8" & finally steps up to 2" before merging into 3-1/2" collectors. The program provides me with the optimum length for each step. In the exhaust after the collectors ... which is also 3-1/2" ... the software program allows me to put the X pipes, H-pipes, mufflers, venturi collectors and/or diffuser cones in the optimum locations. Frankly ifthese are put in the wrong location, based on where the exhaust pulses are, any of these can hurt power, instead of help it. * I saw a car one time with the X-over pipe in the exact wrong location. When they removed it & just ran straight tube, they picked up 45HP. That's how much power can be lost if the pulses run into each other at the wrong location. We use diffuser cones in the exhaust to help reduce the sound dramatically. Many tracks have db limits these days. If it placed at the right location, there is no power loss. Sometimes, even a slight power increase. |
Very cool
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Wow.. speechless.
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I am a little concerned about the fitment of the seat in this car. It looks like the seat should be narrower in the hips, wider in the shoulders and much farther back from the pedals. :rolleyes::lmao: |
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Hey Ron, It looks like the rear lower control arm mounts are slotted? How does that set up work and what purpose does the adjustability serve? Excuse my ignorance......
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The lowers are fully adjustable....not needed for the top mount? Ive been taught (by you) everything in Rons world is adjustable....this, changes, everything.🙃
Thank you for sharing all of this, its not everyday I get to see what goes into building a car at this level. :thumbsup::flag2: |
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Hey Ahmad ! Most people outside of racing don't know why we do it. By the way, we only slot the front lower link mounts on the crossmember. The lowers are pushing under acceleration, so the slot is not at risk of pulling out. The forces under decel are not as hard on it. We slot them to get the lower links perfectly level with the car at the desired ride height & rake. When the lower link are level (regardless of upper link angle) the car has zero rear steer during roll. That's how we start all of our clients. Then if they need a little extra help turning on some crazy tight AX courses, They can adjust the front of the links up some ... creating "positive rear steer" ... and helping the car to turn better. This is at a cost of some rear grip under throttle, so we don't want to do it if it's not needed. On road courses, or super fast open road races like Silver State, Big Bend (which our client Tom Whelen won both at 204 & 205 mph averages) we can do the opposite. By lowering the front of the lower links, we're creating "negative steer" ... which adds rear grip the faster you go through corners. The downside is it doesn't turn tight as well. So the slots are just a tuning tool to make sure we're neutral rear steer, positive or counter ... as we need. P.S. ALL RSRT 3-Links & Torque Arms come with these slotted brackets for the lower links. |
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Too funny. Frankly, in the lower links, we usually just level them & forget them. We only adjust the fronts to change rear steer when needed. See my answer above to Ahmad's question. On the Decoupled 3-link, I've found we like the Decel link (the top one that is a double adjustable gas shock) around 15°. I hate to say this, but it IS a RONCO oven. Set it ... and forget it. The angle anyway. We do fine tune the shock valving with knobs on the console. When the driver is on the straights, they can reach down & grab a handful of rear grip (or less grip). One knob fine tunes rear grip on corner entry. The other knob fine tunes rear grip on corner exit. Now the Accel link ... the lower of the V-link assembly ... gets fine tuned often. That's why we don't use HOLES in brackets. Too coarse of a change. That steel jack screw assembly the Accel link is bolted to on the chassis goes up or down 4" ... with the turn of a knob. It's just behind the main hoop, in the cockpit, so it's NOT adjusted on track. We call this our "Quik-Tune" assembly because it takes seconds to adjust it. We simply adjust it down (clockwise) for more rear corner exit grip ... and up (counter clockwise)for less. Other than the setup we put on the car in the shop ... without changing any parts on the car ... we have a total of 20 areas of quick, easy, track tuning ... 14 in the rear & 6 in the front. So your world is safe big guy !!! |
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I actually read Ahmad's question as referring to the rear link on the FRONT LCA that is slotted. I'll try to link the correct image below. Even if that wasn't his question, I am curious about why you do that. :) http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...3&d=1526669767 |
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I am copying it here again. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Quote:
Great question Bob! On our Track-Warrior front clips ... all 4 versions ... the LCA & UCA brackets have slots for our slugs. When I designed each of these front suspensions, I made them so we can build them "semi-custom" for each customer, with different ride heights, frame widths, etc. I placed the slots in a location that allows me use precision slugs to optimize each semi-custom front frame & suspension. The precision slugs are on page 188 of our catalog HERE. We have "0" slugs to put the LCA or UCA pivot in the center, and then offset slugs every 1/16" ... up to .250". This allows me to dial in the exact roll center, camber gain, anti-dive, etc I want on each front suspension. When we're correcting the geometry in a factory frame or front clip, I don't use the slugs. It is so hard to get them right ... when we make changes ... I don't want the lower pivots to be adjusted or moved after I've nailed down where they go. So in these cases, I prefer & recommend we simply weld thick, hardened washers to the outsides of the LCA buckets ... in the correct location ... and call it good. |
Are you going to have to tweak the DBW pedal and brake pedal to make heel-n-toe easier? I would imagine the Wilwood brake pedal position is adjustable? I have stock 69 F-body pedals and the same DBW pedal. At the moment, my gas pedal is too high when I'm on the brake.
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But in any other situation, you'd be right. We always put the pedals where the driver wants. |
Maybe I should switch out my T56 Magnum for one of those...it might be easier than modifying my pedals! Speaking of trans, will you do anything to the exhaust pipes that run right along the trans to decrease heat transfer? I'm sure you will be running a trans cooler, but that looks like it would fry the trans.
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What a bargain! I actually looked up the sequential shift T-56 when it was first mentioned in this build and thought I read the price incorrectly until I saw it several times on their site. :hairpullout: :hairpullout: For my budget I'll be breaking out the fabrication tools. :superhack: |
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