Just a few random pics. Just starting on the EFI wiring, making mods to the harness to fit better and cleaner. Put the Ron Davis Radiator and fan combo in to make sure the exhaust crossover clears. Next up will be figuring out the intercooler mounting and building the radiator hoses.

Goofy gets it. :lol:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-KFMKKck-S.jpg

:hitaxeonthehead:

Camcojb,

Your build is amazing. I check for updates daily.
I truly appreciate all of your attention to detail.
Just as much, I appreciate your commitment as administrator.
Thank you.

Jim and Geralyn,

Don’t give up.

That intake is awesome looking! Well so is everything else.:D

Thanks guys, truly appreciate it.

Little bit more progress. Made a new 1/4 stainless line for my steam line kit. They normally just leave a open line on one end to put a rubber hose and run to the radiator. I drilled and tapped the water pump and made a one piece line to the pump. Also started mocking up the radiator hoses.

Intake?
 

Real estate is getting tight up front already Jody! It'll be interesting to see how you route the intake tube...

Always does. Starts out looking nice and open and as stuff is added the room is gone lol. The intake will be bending to the drivers side, across the top and then down. The real fun will be getting it out of and into the intercooler. With the four headlights of the 70 I can't fit it through the radiator support like on Malitude, so it'll have to snake underneath around the frame, hopefully not hanging down and visible from the front of the car.

Like me builder told me...I was trying to squeeze 10 lbs of s#!t into a 5 lb bucket. :lol::lol::lol::lol:

Exactly!

Is the engine intended to be installed that far forward? Seems very far forward. My passenger head has 3/4" between it and the firewall, I see you can fit your coils between the head and firewall!

Funny you mentioned that. I've been debating moving it back, there's advantages and disadvantages. I have the Dirty Dingo sliders so it'd be easy to slide back. My buddies 72 is in the same position and rides and handles just fine.

The reason I had it forward was "street car" so the difference in weight balance wasn't a major concern to me. Plus I wanted a simple coil relocation setup, I like the looks and fit of the ADE brackets. It also gives me more room at the back of the engine for EFI wiring, and access to the bellhousing bolts.

Moving it back gets me better weight balance, and more room between the radiator and engine. Might also be the difference in not having to trim the inner hood for intake clearance. But now I have to find a spot to mount the coils (not a huge deal). Turbo position should work but will be closer to the inner fender. Will have to re-do my upper radiator hose, and the rear fuel line into the intake, but minor stuff. IF I'm going to do it now is the time.

Bottom line, it was easier to do it the way I did, but since when are these cars supposed to be easy? :lol:

I was scratching my head at the space between the rad and front drive. I run truck accessories and was wondering how in the world I have more room than a car front drive haha.
I definitely understand you're reasoning! It does look great so far, just had to mention it :)

Since we are critiquing your build do you have any concerns about exhaust heat cooking your fan motors? It looks close in the pics. I know you can wrap the pipe but the insulation is not perfect. That being said I don’t know chit about building a turbo engine :)

Don

I've had similar thoughts as well. Lots of these turbo set-ups on the NET & it's always had me wondering about exhaust heat related impact on items not normally subjected to the issue.

I don't. For one, I just moved the engine back 2"... :superhack: Plus I'm going to use Zycoat on the pipe; they claim it reduces radiant heat by 90%. Reviews look very good. If I'm not happy I'll also wrap it. On Malitude the pipes I wrapped with Thermotec wrap could be touched after driving without burning.

Changed my mind and decided to remake the upper hose tubing, to get both bends in stainless 1.5" tubing. Moving the engine back gave me the additional room, before it was too close to get the 90 degree bend into the radiator in solid tubing, the molded hose could do a tighter bend.

Hi Jody. What are you using to put the bead in the tube?

Thanks,
Don

Don,

I've had the Bead Form bead roller for many years, works fantastic. At the time there weren't many others, but now there's several similar units.

I can confirm that Jody's Beadform works great, even on 0.065" stainless, as I was in possession of Jody's for the last who knows how many years while trying to get my car finished and only recently returned it to him... (thanks again, by the way.) :lol:

A lot of the cheaper bead rollers won't handle stainless tubing. Aluminum and mild steel are OK, but they'll tweak or flat out break if doing stainless.

I have a tubing beadroller die set for my Mittler Brothers panel bead roller that also works, but I don't care for how far back it puts the bead from the end of the tube... in some tight radius / tight clearance situations it locates the bead too far back. It also can't do any smaller than 1.25" tubing and is only rated up to .059" mild steel or 0.043" stainless. No such diameter or thickness problems on the Beadform that Jody posted, it locates the bead very close to the end of the tubing and will handle up to 0.065" wall stainless.

I recently bought the K2 bead roller from Furick. It also locates the bead close to the end of the tube like the Beadform, and it's a really stout piece. It lacks some of the "nice to have" things of the Beadforms like the roller handle and large T handle on the tension knob, but it's $200 cheaper and has the strength where it counts in the frame, shafts, bushings, and gearing. The latest Beadform 3 HD is probably the best unit out there though-- but it's also $200 more expensive. If I was using it every day on stainless I would have bought the Beadform 3 HD along with the motor kit, but I only need to roll beads on tubing a couple of times a year when doing radiator, intake, or intercooler piping.

https://furickcup.com/product/k2-bead-roller/

Fitted the firewall smoothing plate from ABC Performance, fit great. Mounted up the Restomod Air a/c unit inside the car, and the bulkhead on the firewall. Special thanks to Rick at Vintage Air for building me a custom compressor line manifold to clear the turbo and wastegate.

My Inland Empire driveshaft showed up, and I was able to find an SS dash through National Parts Depot that actually uses chrome around the bezels and lettering instead of silver paint. Looks a lot better than other reproduction dashes. Started fitting the Dakota Digital gauges to the new dash.

Wow are you cranking in this car.

I agree with the other guys. Don’t paint it and don’t fix the dents. Just leave it as is. People will be blown away when you open the hood.

The reason we did the satin paint on the Css as Camaro is that I had no desire to ever have perfect paint again.


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I actually looked into paintless dent repair just to get the bulk of the big dents out, but none of the companies out here will touch it... :lol:

I'm still missing some key components to allow the car to be fired/driven like fuel tank, clutch, hydroboost, intercooler, but there's still plenty I can do. Plan now is to continue on like it is painted and run it as-is until I can get it in for paint. I will pull the body back off to have the chassis powdercoated first, but then things will be assembled and torqued to be driven vs just mocking up like now.

You know, if you think about it, the name of the car is Collateral DAMAGE... makes the case for leaving it as-is. Maybe I can start a new trend, like the popularity of patina but take it a step further. Have the car look like a complete beater on the outside but totally trick underneath. :idea:

Like that Polara that RS did for Jesse James. That was one cool car.

Collateral Damage- My 70 Chevelle site build
 

Don’t forget the Valiant Greening Auto built. Them there was the twin belt driven turbo/super charged Nova that was built by the guys from Wheel to Wheel in the late 90’s early 2000.

I say leave it and drive the crap out of it. Another benefit is less chance it will get stolen.


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Mounted the Clayton Machine pedals today. Everything fit great, no issues. Love the look. Also mounted up the American Powertrain clutch master and adjustable bracket. It comes with full adjustment for the master cylinder angle so you can get the rod geometry perfect and eliminate side loading and possible failure of the master. On the 70 Chevelle the bracket lined up with the factory hole for the manual clutch rod to go through. I decided I wanted more support at the firewall because of the hole, so I bought a Speedtech clutch master bracket, and then mounted the American Powertrain adjustable bracket to that, instead of mounting to the firewall/hole directly. I did remove a very small area on one side of the factory firewall hole to give a bit more rod clearance. Turned out great, rod goes straight into the master, no angles or issues. I do need to build a clutch pedal stop in the future to avoid overextending the piston in the master, they only want 1.12" of movement at the master cylinder.

get one of those big suction cup deals an pull the dent out of the back as best you can. The other dings and dent call one of those paintless dent guys, if he is good he will get most of the other dents out.

He's actually working on it...I'm kinda impressed. The dent in the door will probably pop out with a truck inner tube inside the door.

You're right, I bet it would. That's a good idea!

I've called four different dentless repair guys, none will touch it. Jim will handle it at some point, no hurry.

Probably don't want to touch it Jody because of the real steel from back in the day. Those little suction puller thingy's most likely only work on the new car thing gauge metal. Not true, pure American steel from the yester-years. Just my guess.

Exactly. The metal is much stiffer than modern cars, you can't just push from the back side and pop these out, ask me how I know... :lol:

I was thinkin gorilla tape all the openings but the lock hole....little lighter fluid...a match..poooof, taaa..daaaa!!! 😂😂😂..

Hilarious... :lol:

Got my bulkhead connectors from Maven Performance. Bought two, one will handle all the EFI/engine wiring.

Great progress sir, keep at it. I like the idea of leaving the body “imperfect”. That big dent in the right 1/4 will come out with the right paintless dent guy. I have one out here that could get it out, I guarantee it. I’ve seen him fix way, way worse. Keep looking, someone will tackle it. Just let them know it’s not a show car, just a driver. ‘Close, but not quite” type of repair.

Totally agree with this. We used a paintless dent guy for some work on a 67 Chevelle and the results were awesome. It was very surprising to see the dents just disappear.

I'm gonna go against the grain here. I'm of the philosophy that you do it once and do it right. I'd struggle to blow apart a car that I enjoy driving.

I love the look and simplicity of the GP Headers Single Turbo Kit. Just looking at it, do you think it would fit in a First Gen Camaro? I contacted them, but they were uncertain.

David