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Today I had the opportunity to go work i the garage. I decided to tackle the intake manifold assembly and final installation.
The first step was to install the o-ring that seals the base with the intercooler. It is a single viton string that gets inserted into the machined groove, the ends are butted together, trimmed flush, and the a drop of super glue is used to hold it together. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/03/GTOV3-928.md.jpg The intercooler is bolted into place. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/03/GTOV3-929.md.jpg Followed by the lid. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/03/GTOV3-930.md.jpg I also installed the all of the fuel injectors and rails. I used the rail brackets that came with the intake manifold, but I replaced all the hardware with ARP stainless fasters. I really like this combination of black and silver against the bronze intake manifold. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/03/GTOV3-931.md.jpg I took the masking take off the heads and cleaned everything with acetone. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/03/GTOV3-932.md.jpg Then I installed the intake manifold assembly on the engine. The intake manifold has o-rings that seal it against the heads. I also lubricated the mating surface so the intake can easily slide around and find a happy spot as it is being torqued down. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/03/GTOV3-933.md.jpg I used these stainless p-clamps for the oil feed line, again with the ARP bolts. Vic added these holes to the intake manifold months ago. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/03/GTOV3-934.md.jpg Here is a broader view that shows all the details of the stainless hardware, with black, against the bronze intake, with a pop of red on the valve covers to keep it interesting. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/03/GTOV3-935.md.jpg Slowly, but surely... Andrew |
Dang does that look nice.
Looking forward to more posts |
Progress has stalled a bit on the GTO, although I managed to take an interesting and useful detour. I was working with a local customer a couple of weeks ago and I noticed that his 5.4L Mustang GT500 engine had a very interesting looking sensor on the fuel rail. After some digging around I figured out that it is Bosch 0 261 230 093. What caught my eye is that one side of the sensor was in the rail while the other side had a vacuum nipple on it.
As I suspected this is a differential pressure (Delta P) sensor. It outputs the difference between rail pressure and manifold pressure (positive or negative). You may wonder why we should care. I am glad you asked, because differential fuel pressure is actually what we really care about, not rail pressure. Another way to think of the differential pressure is the pressure across the injector discharge. Let's do an example: Let's say you have a fuel system that is set to 60psi at the rail and there is no vacuum or boost reference on the regulator, or the regulator is not adjustable. This is a fairly common scenario with a LS swap, simple in-tank pump, and a Corvette style regulator. Let's also say that you have a moderate performance cam and the engine idle around 50kPa, which is about 15in/Hg, which is also about -7psi. Note that the units are all different, but they are describing the same thing, which is the amount of vacuum in the intake manifold when the engine is running. In this scenario the rail pressure doesn't change, but what happens to the pressure across the injector discharge when the engine is running? Because of the vacuum that is generated by the engine, the differential pressure across the injectors is actually 67psi. In other words, the injectors act as if they flowed more. That is exactly what this sensor will read, because it measures differential pressure directly. Consider a different scenario. Turbocharged engine, adjustable regulator with a vacuum line hooked up to it. Let's assume the same base pressure of 60psi. When the engine is running under the same conditions, a normal pressure sensor would show 53psi at the rail, but this sensor will still read true differential pressure, which in this case is 60psi. Take the same scenario under boost. Engine is making 10psi, rail pressure sensor will be reading 70psi, and this sensor will still read 60psi. The purpose of having a vacuum/boost referenced fuel system is in fact to maintain consistent differential fuel pressure. This is a fun topic and if anyone has any questions, please post them. Here is sensor mount that Vic machined. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/27/GTOV3-936.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/27/GTOV3-937.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/27/GTOV3-938.md.jpg It attaches right to the back of the rail with the AN-6 female to female union. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/27/GTOV3-939.md.jpg The eagle eyed will notice that it is mounted to the Cougar. I am using the Cougar to do the testing for the sensor. Andrew |
Progress on the GTO is a little slow, but moving along. I need to thank my friends at The DriveShaft Shop for making me a bullet proof, dual CV, carbon fiber driveshaft.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/20/GTOV3-940.md.jpg Here you can see the details of the 108mm non plunging CV and the carbon fiber tube. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/20/GTOV3-941.md.jpg This is their new design 8 bolt non-plunging CV. These are used on the Nissan GTR 2500+hp driveshafts. Good enough for this pile... https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/20/GTOV3-942.md.jpg Here you can see how it fits between the exhaust. There is plenty of clearance, so heat should not be a concern. Besides, there is a constant stream of air passing under the car while it is moving, which cools the exhaust. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/20/GTOV3-943.md.jpg Plenty of stick-out for any little movement from the rear end articulation and deflection. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/20/GTOV3-944.md.jpg Andrew |
It looks good Andrew! The intake look good on there.
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Some very nice progress and I love reading your post as I feel like I’m back in school.
However, this time I’m really excited about going to class. Sent from my iPhone using Taptalk |
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Progress on the GTO has been slow, but it is still moving forward. Also, keeping two project cars moving forward is not the easiest...
That said, I have a small update on the GTO. A while back you might recall seeing pictures of when I had the GTO hood 3d scanned. The idea was to have a digital representation of the hood so that something could be made for the hole. When I was at LS Fest I met a couple of guys from a company called Reversion Raceworks. They specialize in custom 3D printing project, specifically for cars. I emailed them after the show and decided to work with them to design an insert for the hood. They did the design work and I also had them print a prototype for fitment purposes. The print was done in PLA and as you can see it has thick layers. This was done to keep the print cheap and fast. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/11/01/GTOV3-945.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/11/01/GTOV3-946.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/11/01/GTOV3-947.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/11/01/GTOV3-948.jpg The fit is spot on. It is as if it was made just for this hood...LOL Now that the insert is done, I am thinking a clear acrylic cover would look pretty cool. My business logo can also be engraved on the bottom of the cover, so it would show through, but the top would be smooth. What do y'all think? Andrew |
Louvers?
Or louvers to let heat out like the 2014-2015 Camaro?
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I like the idea of letting the heat out of the engine bay and I also like the idea of louvers. Is your plan to make the final piece billet or 3d printed plastic ?
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This is a Pontiac, does anybody else see the resemblance in shape to a shaker scoop?
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https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-063.jpg But the new turbo combination doesn't allow me to make the shaker functional, and I really didn't want to ruin the shaker by just attaching it to the bottom of the hood. I'm trying to do something different. Besides, there is only about 1/4" clearance at the front of the opening between the bottom of the hood and the intake manifold. The intake manifold was actually modified to fit under the hood. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/05/13/GTOV3-921.jpg Hopefully it all makes sense now... Andrew |
More Plenum Volume?
Would it make sense to add more plenum volume toward the back of the intake?
Following the hood line more closely vs tapering down in the back as it does now? Would there be a performance advantage to making it taller and following the plane of your custom engraved plate up front? Might be more interesting visually too if you go with a ZR1 styled plexi insert... |
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As far as solely speaking airflow, that I do have hundreds or more hours on my flow bench. My guess is the taper is engineered to speed up airflow as it travels rearward to aid filling rear cylinders( it may not really speed up, but it won't slow down and get lazy over the distance of the manifold.) Air will speed up as cross sectional area is reduced just like the taper of intake runners and cylinder head ports. |
I'd just go back to the 1970 GTO hood with twin snouts because I'm unoriginal like that. Or, if you want to continue to go with a cross breed idea, what about using the twin snouts off an early 70's formula? Good luck with the decision, Andrew.
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It has been a while since I have made progress on the GTO. Over the weekend I was hanging out with a friend of mine from Chicago and he was busting my balls about not having done already. He isn't wrong.
The mailman dropped off the new Tick Performance one piece o-ring for their intercooler (they also fit Holley HiRam and LoRam intakes) this morning, so it was the perfect opportunity to do something productive. https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/02/26/IMG20240226140142.jpg The intake lid is on for good now. https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/02/26/IMG20240226143224.jpg Over the winter I also ordered these grommets from SpearTech. I was going to do something fancy, but I think I am going to keep it simple. https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/02/26/IMG20240226154104.jpg Apparently I robbed the silicone coupler and clamps for the Cougar :facepalm: https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/02/26/IMG20240226164733.jpg I was going to do fancy stuff with the harness, but I am going to keep it simple. I really want this thing running and driving before the summer. Andrew |
Man does that look good and I completely understand sometime life gets in the way of finishing our projects.
and Holy crap do I love the look of the Engine bay !! |
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I am looking forward to seeing how the Tick Performance intercooler holds up and performs on a street car. I have been contemplating using one for my Procharger upgrade, but I am worried about how it will hold up over time. In my limited time doing research, I have only seen them used on race cars.
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Clearly, I have been neglecting this thread. We have had a busy spring and summer. My wife and I moved to Denton Texas and I have been busy with my tuning business and with the new house. I finally have all of my garage stuff moved down here and the new space will be a lot better than I have ever had. It isn't a 60x40 shop, but it will be comfortable. The GTO has been parked in that space for a while and the Cougar is still in storage locally.
I did not have a car at LS Fest, but that gave me the opportunity to hang out and enjoy time with old friends and make new friends. This is just a portion of the gang that meets up at LS Fest. https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/09/22/GTOV3-952.jpg This LS Fest I was also working. I was in the TurboLamik booth promoting my remote tuning business as well as talking to people about the ZF8HP transmission swaps using the TurboLamik TCU. https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/09/22/GTOV3-953.jpg The TurboLamik guys came to visit from Poland and here we are with their US distributor. (from left to right: me, Lukas Lamik, Greg Drozd, Agnes Lamik, David Lamik) https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/09/22/GTOV3-954.jpg We had two cars there with the ZF8HP swap. They happened to run their best passes for the weekend lined up against each other. Here is the time slip for that pass. Not bad for true street cars https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/09/22/GTOV3-955.jpg Needless to say, after having experienced cars with the ZF8HP transmission, there was no way I was keeping the 4L80e in my GTO. My Alabama buddies scored this big boy 8HP90 and it will be making its way under my GTO this fall. https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/09/22/GTOV3-949.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/09/22/GTOV3-950.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/09/22/GTOV3-951.jpg If anyone is interested in learning about the ZF8HP swap, shoot me an email: projectgattago at gmail dot com Andrew |
Finally I can put a face to a person that I've been texting back and forth. LOL
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As time passes, companies improve and refine their products. Such is the case with the Tick Performance intercooler brick. Originally I had purchased their first design, but they have since released their Ultra Low intercooler and this is the way I decided to go.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/10/08/GTOV3-956.jpg The Ultra Low intake has an integrated billet lid that reduces the overall height by 2 inches compared to their original intercooler and a Holley top. https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/10/08/GTOV3-957.jpg Not only is the intake lower, but the throttle body mounting flange is also moved back, substantially, which generally improves fitment. https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/10/08/GTOV3-958.jpg With the lower intake, now there is ample room to reuse the shaker scoop. The shaker scoop is such a unique feature of this build, that I really do not want to change it. https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/10/08/GTOV3-1002.jpg With the hood closed, you can see how much clearance there is now between the top of the intake and the bottom of the hood. As you might recall, that clearance was barely 1/4" with the other intake set-up. https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/10/08/GTOV3-1001.jpg With the shaker scoop resting on the intake and the hood closed there is now ample room to make a mount that will attach the shaker to the engine. https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/10/08/GTOV3-959.jpg With the throttle body now in a different location, the tube from the compressor outlet to the throttle body will need to be remade. I have been following Jon Volk's builds for years and he has inspired me to push the envelope. I am using the Einstar 3D scanner to generate a 3D model which will then be used to designed the intake charge tube. The plan is to manufacture the intake charge tube by having it 3D printed from aluminum. I used foot powder spray on the engine to eliminate the shine, as the 3D scanners don't work well on shiny surfaces. https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/10/08/GTOV3-1004.jpg Here is the resulting scan. https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/10/08/GTOV3-1006.jpg Progress is being made... Andrew |
That intake would have solved a LOT of fabbing on my end, very nice!
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Love seeing technology like that 3D scanner being put to use on "hobby level" projects. Technology like that coming to garages will change the custom hotrod game even more.
Looking forward on seeing how you plan to attach that shaker scoop to the intake, plenty of room to make a nice piece that bolts to the intake plenum top flange looks like. |
Love this build and I can't wait till the next update.
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Glad you're able to keep the shaker, Andrew.
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Here are some progress pictures of the intake pipe.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/10/16/GTOV3-1011.png https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/10/16/GTOV3-1012.png Andrew |
We are getting there!
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/10/17/GTOV3-1013.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/10/17/GTOV3-1014.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/10/17/GTOV3-1015.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/10/17/GTOV3-1016.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/10/17/GTOV3-1017.jpg The next step is to get a prototype printed in PLA to confirm fitment. Andrew |
Very nice.
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I love the logo details being included.
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A generous fillet was added around the BOV mount and here is the final part:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2024/10/18/GTOV3-1018.jpg I ordered a prototype printed in PLA and it was less than $100 shipped. The aluminum part should come in under $600. Andrew |
Great stuff Andrew! When you think of the amount of time it would take a skilled fabricator to make up something roughly equivalent to this, it becomes obvious how these technologies can enhance the creativity of us "average" hobbyists.
What modeling software are you using? And who are you using for the prints? |
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I provided the scan and he took it from there. The prototype was uploaded to CraftCloud. They are a broker and some company in Minnesota is doing the printing. There were less expensive print options in Europe but the lead-time was longer and the shipping was more expensive, so I chose made in the USA. I am going to use this process for a lot of things in the future. Andrew |
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