That would be a trick for sure!

Now that the car is running and driving my time is spent either driving, or fixing things that are buggy. I've still been dealing with leaks on this. trans fluid leaks, engine oil leaks. I think the trans is leaking from the input shaft seal- likely because my Lakewood housing isn't centered enough. I've been reading about this and everything will have to come back out so I'm dreading this one as it involves holes in the sheet metal to access bolts. time to make a removable cover. The other has been engine oil. Turns out the shop that built my engine sold me some defective parts- the valve covers were warped! They're going to get an earful from me on this, as they upsold me on the covers in the first place, then they leaked from day one, charged me for a new gasket- which popped out and spewed oil all over. When I was fixing this is when I discovered that it was warped. bowed like a canoe. It's no wonder the gasket popped out, the cover was so warped it went off past the cylinder head. Furthermore it was hitting the rocker arms. clack clack clack and the cover would shake. not good. So ground down the inside to make more room, bent the cover back in a press and had help decking it so it would be flat again. still leaked. bad. so much oil was dribbling out there was smoke coming out from the hood vents I recently made. So I ordered new billet covers (avoiding these welded ones altogether). I had to modify the oil cap to work with my catch can assy, which I promptly ruined when trying to braze it together. Lesson learned: don't overheat aluminum. $62 later a second oil cap (yes, the cap was $50 plus tax and shipping. grrr) and some careful brazing and I think I have it fixed. At least this one. I'm still getting dribbles somewhere but I can't seem to find where they're coming from. It's dry around the valve cover yet it's still wet around the exhaust header flange/ bolts. Either it's still leaking or it's residue from before that hasn't burnt off.

Also having issues with my parking brakes. The drums are wearing against the axles. Other than the wheel cylinder there isn't anything inside to hold them in place. A stock oem assembly would have a bracket at the top, but, since this is using a universal backing plate a cover plate is there instead- and with the pressed on Torino bearings it's impossible to install one of the oem clips, so I added some springs to help hold them in place. Seems to be doing the trick.

I also hogged out my ram air vents to help with airflow in the engine bay. I'm having overheating issues with my driver side header melting everything around it. I'll probably have to throw on another (closed) set if/ when I make it to a track day so I'm not adding too much air pressure in the engine bay/ lift in front, but I would think this should be Ok for street driving. If anyone has any experience on this I'd like to hear about it.

It's so frustrating we all have to work through so many parts quality issues. You're making it happen though. :drive: Looks good buddy. I like the hood vents.

Sorry to hear about the problems with the valve covers, but glad you got it figured out. I hope the seal swap goes easy on you.

Brendon I just read your build front to back...wow what a trip! Great work on the bird...really impressed with what you've done...very cool

Dave

Thanks, guys!

This weekend I was planning on having the car dyno tuned, but apparently they want more time with the car so I'll take it back and drop it off later this week. I will ask that they take videos since I won't get to be there to watch.

One thing of interest the folks there (engine shop) told me that I have the wrong style of muffler on my car. Currently I have a set of flowmasters on there and they said that this is contributing to my excessive heat under the hood- that I need a flow through muffler design. They said this is restricting the heat from escaping which could help to explain why I have so much ehat build up in my engine bay. It's an interesting theory, so I may try a set of those Dynomax VT mufflers, as I do need to keep it quiet around the house/ neighborhood.

In preparation of the retune I installed a 160º thermostat, did another oil change, and (not essential to the tune) I added some ducting for the front brakes. I had some scoops that I had bought previously and I mounted them up front and ran some high temp silicone hoses to the brakes. Hopefully this will work.

Will the mufflers make a difference in the tune if you change them after they tune it? It sounds like it makes sense. Are you still going to have the headers coated ? I forgot if they are coated already. Glad you have options.

I have cut outs which are electric motor driven and they can tune with them open which should free up the exhaust and make it close enough.

Currently the headers are coated from Specialized Coatings shop in HB, CA http://specializedcoating.com/ceramic-coating/2018337 I haven't followed up on the Jet Hot yet. I'm now curious to see what difference the tune and other mufflers will make. If this works then I'll be happy, and, if not, I still have an option to explore.

I hope it drops the temps to an acceptable level.

Dyno'd
 

I had my car dyno tuned this past week. I had them tune it so I could run pump gas all day long which made it just under 450 hp at the wheels. There is a little more in the engine still but I'd rather have the financial freedom of not being dependent on race gas. I also took the car to the Cruisin for a Cure show this weekend at the OC fairgrounds and it got to sit out in the hot sun all day. I still have a few minor mods I need to make, but it's getting there!