Dash Plug
 

John.....great vision as usual :cheers:

It's hard to see from your side-on image but it seems you have three separate curves at the moment??? I would make the instrument mounting surface as one continuous curve (in top view).

Because each instrument has a flat mounting flange, and you main surface is curved.....this is a negative curve in your case, you have to raise or depress the surface locally around each shape. This will look much sweeter than having the main surface stopping and starting.
Attached is my Camaro instrument fascia which is one-piece vacuum formed ABS over a plywood/bondo male mold. You can see that each penetration has its own flat flange about 3/16" wide. The radii around the holes are much softer than you will be able to achieve in fiberglass, but I had to go that route for the vacuum form material to flow into the flat areas. Top left air outlet needed raising AND lowering the attaching flange because of the complex (compound) curve at the end of the dash.
BTW....that grill and surround are a commercial stainless steel sugar shaker like a donut store would have.....shhhh.....our secret :rolleyes:

Also my main crash pad surface is a positive curve (with the center higher than the ends) ...... The central warning light area was then machined flat, the border trenched out, and the depressed flanges go deeper again. NEVER CREATE A FLAT SURFACE ON AN AUTO BODY because surrounding curves will make it look hollow.......also shrinkage around edges when the resin cures will pull your surface hollow. Even on a long wide panel that you want to look flat (like a fascia between tail lamps for example) should have 3/16" positive or negative curve in it......never use the plywood dead flat.
My instrument pad is loosey goosey compared to what yours can be ....cos mine is racecar and both left hand and right hand were done in TWO EIGHT HOUR DAYS! You will get better definition using gel coat and glass.

Dash plug 2
 

There you go John.....alternative sections thru.

Upper section is obviously instruments square to the car....not ideal visually...also prolly get reflections on outer instruments.

Lower is the best.....faces parallel to base surface. More driver focused.

More options.....mount them deeper......tilt them halfway between the angles shown.

Note: these are NOT the images Marty was looking forward to :theresa:

I think the dash layout if great.

I put the tach dead center above the steering column in my car. With the speedo moved down to beside the steering column arch, I could actually see the whole thing. The factory gauges were cut off at the top because of the steering wheel and how I sit in the car.

Didn't have huge progress this weekend but some...! Keeping the plug so there are reliefs for the mold and keeping proper gaps for the dash wrap material (leather or alcantara) along with the insert for the gauges....just time consuming.
Attachment 73545

Mock'd up some gauges (mdf painted black with color printed gauge faces) just to get the feel of the layout in 3D. This insert will likely be carbon. Not sure yet. Of course all of this wood is just mock up for the fiberglass mold. Lots more to come.
Attachment 73546

Started the front edge of the dash, will build it back to the gauge cluster next.
Attachment 73547

Damn your practice gauges had me fooled, having them like that gives you a great sense of the final piece. Nice job.

Very nice!!

John, it's a shame you are rushing this project.:sarcasm_smiley:
Seriously though You have a car that has detail second to none. Be proud of yourself and thanks for sharing your talents!

I for one, LOVE unconventional!!! Great idea keeping true to the basic shape but doing your own layout.


Jeff-