Looks good, Matt. I like the idea of putting the louvers and gas filler together.

Do you have a 2 gas tanks? To me, it looks like shots of both sides of the car.

Hey I was just taking your advice and combing thru the "junkyard":rolleyes:

I completely understand your build direction. Kinda like of you went back in time with the knowledge of today and built it with some parts of the past. Maybe that doesn't make sense.:BlahBlah:

You know what I think of your quarter window fillers already but to be official.:thumbsup: Mimicking the feel of the original louvers is a great idea.

Can't wait to see what you come up with for the stainless trim. To date the build is Blue Oval approved.:lmao:

:popcorn2:


One side for Gas one side for Oil in the dry sump tank.

:cheers:

Good eye! I've been thinking that I want this car to be really street friendly, as in, something that is comfortable, safe, and reliable enough to drive to events a few thousand miles away. I also want the car to be a fun driver's car on the track. In order to keep the reliability and streetability I want, I'm not going too radical on the engine. There are manifolds that raise peak power up to 8200rpm, there are larger throttle bodies and there are nasty cams that build much better power in the upper rpm ranges, but get rid of variable valve timing. I don't want to go in that direction, since I want to preserve the most useable amount of low to mid torque and get the best response out of the engine that I can. To that end, I'm sticking to basic items like long tube headers, a little additional port work on the heads and good intake and tune using the factory engine management system. One of the good things about the factory harness is that I should be able to plug in a hand held tuner to the computer, and be able to change tunes in under a minute. See where I'm going with the two fuel fillers. :unibrow:

If the engine is grossly lacking everything that makes it really fast, I can always pull it out in a couple years to sleeve the block, bore it out, and toss in super light rotating assembly with a billet crank and better rods and pistons. :G-Dub:

Sneaky. I just thought one was for the dry sump tank. Maybe your were talking about the customers car.

:cheers:

Yeah, that description gets at what I'm trying to do. I'm trying to keep the number of overtly modern touches like billet tail lights, carbon fiber bumpers, or other finish details like shaved door handles, modern mirrors or new school steering wheel and gauges to a minimum. I want it to be a little bit like how Steve Strope designs his cars, except I want this thing to be functional for me, which means a new engine and nice seats. :lol:

Speaking of gauges, I need to give Speed Hut a call. I want some gauges very similar to yours, except I want a yellow tach that reads 7500 rpm at 12 o'clock. :D

See, your recycling of the junkyard has been useful both to me and Speed Hut.

Oh, and I think the dry sump must have been in regards to the customer's car. the Boss 302 engine uses a huge road race wet sump. I haven't heard of poor oiling on the Coyote motors like I've heard about on LSs. I know the Grand am Mustangs are still running wet sumps so they must not be too bad.

Matt, did you see Maier just came out with flared front fenders for 65-66 that fit 315's? :idea:

:D


Good to know you are the official rep for all things Blue Oval. :rolleyes:

I think I can fit 315s on the front of my car, but I'm going the hellaflush route and since I'm planning on running street tires, I'm thinking of using either the 295 Rivals or the 285/30 Dunlop ZIIs. It's probably the rear that would need the wheel houses and/or frame rails modified to fit the 315 without rubbing.

Nice. What size rears you gunnin for?

You know Rob will not approve on behalf of the Blue Oval camp unless they are a 345 at a minimum. :twak:

No kidding! :lostmarbles: