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Quote:

Originally Posted by F'in mine (Post 706420)

Mark, in few of your earlier posts you show that you're using IImuch vents, one for the diff and one for the fuel tank. It looks like the Rick's tank has provisions for a rear/ top fitting. Is that the only vent you're using? TIA. Let me re-phrase the question, is the rear tank port the only one you're using?

Quote:

Originally Posted by F'in mine (Post 706420)

The Ricks tank has a vent system inside the tank to help. We also add a fitting to the filler neck to help prevent fuel from pushing out of the tank. With all of that said if you 100% fill the tank on a hot day then park the car in the hot sun it might puke over out the 2 Much canister.

The issue is the Ricks tanks and most aftermarket tanks do not have room for expansion.

This one of the only issues we had with Charlies new Riv.

The 2 Much canisters do a great job with fuel vapors but no pure fuel.

I may add an expansion tank to the project before the 2 Much canister to keep raw fuel out of it.

Thanks for the comment I almost forgot about that.

Mark

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Mark, looks like a 4 point bar. Any reason why you’ve gone to 4 point in the recent builds instead of the 6 or 8 (don’t recall exactly) you done in some projects?

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeff71 (Post 706452)

Mark, looks like a 4 point bar. Any reason why you’ve gone to 4 point in the recent builds instead of the 6 or 8 (don’t recall exactly) you done in some projects?

To be honest to save time and money. The full cages are cool but make everything harder. Harder to make the cage itself. Harder to cleanly fit the dash pad. The park brake becomes an issue. Hard to fit the Vintage Air.

Also at work for our track cars we have gone the the same set up. I design the safety equipment to plan for a front end impact. If I have an issue I plan to crash nose in. I might survive.

Mark

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You know these cars better than I, but I always thought my car suffered from flexing in front of the cowl. Before Hood pins, the hood would pop auto crossing and road racing with solid body mounts. I thought down bars would help stabilize, but that’s speculation.

Love the build!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegas69 (Post 706457)

The weld in subframe connects help a lot.

Yes a full cage is better if you want a stiffer car. If you want a fast track car buy a C6 Z06 and save yourself a lot of time and money.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Stielow (Post 706458)

it make me laugh, haha

and nice job on the car, cant wait to see it complted

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stielow (Post 706458)

Amen to that!

Fuel pressure question

When you turn the ignition on does the fuel pumps hold fuel rail pressure? Recently installed a lt4 in a friends 69 and ignition on the fuel pressure goes to 40ish and then drops to zero. Tested this with a online -6an fuel pressure gauge at the fuel inlet at the engine. My gmpp ls3 swap it will hold the fuel pressure with key on

Secondary fan/ AC fan activation

I noticed on a gmpp tune the second fan doesn’t come on till 221 degrees. What do you set your fan settings at? Can you activate the secondary fan with the ac on?

Can you remind us, are you using something like Gates PowerGrip heatshrink for your hose claps?