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WSSix 10-22-2012 07:19 AM

The distributor is driven off the cam which only makes one rotation to the crank shaft's two rotations. I agree though that it's best to lift a valve cover to make sure you're on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke

Roscoe03 10-22-2012 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sieg (Post 442087)

What spark plug wire separators do you have on your valve covers?....I have been looking for something like those but haven't had luck finding any.

Sieg 10-22-2012 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roscoe03 (Post 442328)
What spark plug wire separators do you have on your valve covers?....I have been looking for something like those but haven't had luck finding any.

Moroso, pretty common, Summit & Jegs, etc.

Sieg 10-22-2012 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 442302)
Yes --- CLOCKWISE.... sorry --- I was trying to THINK and type at the same time... the brain had one picture and the fingers typed what I was thinking not to do!

Should have read my own post before hitting submit.:D

I knew what you meant, it was a good knuckleball you threw me considering the moment. :D

Vince@Meanstreets 10-22-2012 10:52 AM

Poof should verify valve opening. Unless you have a plugged exhaust but pull the valve cover to satisfy 27% of us.

I think you need more timing, oh an be prepared to swap out that power valve. The power valve protection doesn't work as well as they like it to. It's cheap insurance, unless you have a tester.
If you have another throat fire just crank it more. The vaccum create will put it out.
Put a battery charger on it while you are doing the first start. Ensures the ignition and starter gets what it needs

Sieg 10-22-2012 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab (Post 442354)
Poof should verify valve opening. Unless you have a plugged exhaust but pull the valve cover to satisfy 27% of us.

I think you need more timing, oh an be prepared to swap out that power valve. The power valve protection doesn't work as well as they like it to. It's cheap insurance, unless you have a tester.
If you have another throat fire just crank it more. The vaccum create will put it out.
Put a battery charger on it while you are doing the first start. Ensures the ignition and starter gets what it needs

Open headers.

Didn't have any "huge" pops, can you visually detect a damaged power valve as in diaphram compromised? I have a couple backup valves if that's the case.

Connected to charger while cranking, works until the assumed starter thermal protection kicks in. That's where the towel comes in handy. ;)

I'm going to check a tach wiring concern and see what I find tonight. The distributor has an internal rev limiter and I'm wondering if for some reason that may be what I'm up against right off idle? To program the limiter you ground and when it was wire I'm wondering if it was grounded and set the rev limit real low? Based on the symptoms that would make sense. We shall see.

Thanks for the help everyone.........Jerry too. :rofl: :thumbsup:

intocarss 10-22-2012 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sieg (Post 442369)
Open headers.

Didn't have any "huge" pops, can you visually detect a damaged power valve as in diaphram compromised? I have a couple backup valves if that's the case.


Thanks for the help everyone.........Jerry too. :rofl: :thumbsup:

I have checked the PV by putting the hex end against my lips, then depressing the diaphram (push on other end), then suck hard and release your finger and see if the the diaphram stays open. Stop sucking and see if it closes, it will only move a little bit. Or If you lightly keep your finger on it and suck and release suck and release ..you'll feel it move in and out while sucking


HEY if it still don't start... just buy Vince's eng and have him get it started for ya :_paranoid :willy: and you're fricken welcome.. :cheers:

Sieg 10-22-2012 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by intocarss (Post 442396)
I have checked the PV by putting the hex end against my lips, then depressing the diaphram (push on other end), then suck hard and release your finger and see if the the diaphram stays open. Stop sucking and see if it closes, it will only move a little bit. Or If you lightly keep your finger on it and suck and release suck and release ..you'll feel it move in and out while sucking


HEY if it still don't start... just buy Vince's eng and have him get it started for ya :_paranoid :willy: and you're fricken welcome.. :cheers:

Could you supply video of the PV check procedure? :unibrow:

Technically Vince's engine could have fallen victim to the same circumstances......not that I would like to have it!

If that tach wire was inadvertantly grounded at some point, like when testing the starter or if the little Autoguage tach I'm using isn't communicating properly with the distributor the rev limit could "possibly" be set at 2K. Somewhat grasping at straws but that's trouble-shooting.

TACHOMETER INFORMATION
The MSD Ready-to-Run has a Gray wire that provides a 12 volt square wave, 20° duty cycle tachometer signal that will trigger most tachometers. It is recommended to connect this lead to your tach’s trigger input wire and check its operation. Note that the rpm limiter is extremely accurate and due to the variety of tachometers available, there may be differences in the displayed rpm.
PROGRAMMING THE REV LIMIT
A tachometer is required to set the rev limit. The limit is programmed by running the engine at half the desired rpm, then momentarily grounding the Gray tach output wire from the MSD. A Gray jumper wire is supplied to connect to the tach with another tee-splice coming off to use for programming. A switch may also be installed to ease adjustments of the limiter (Figure 15). The default rpm limit is 10,000 rpm and the limit is adjustable from 2,000 - over 10,000 rpm..
1. Start the engine and bring the rpm to half the desired rev limit (for a 6,000 rpm limit, raise and hold the rpm to 3,000).
2. While holding the rpm steady, short the Gray tach wire to ground for approximately one second. Note that the tach will go to zero while grounded.
3. The tach will now display the programmed rev limit amount for two seconds. If this value does not register on the tach, repeat the procedure and try a different ground source.
4. To confirm the rev limit value, turn the ignition key to the On position (without cranking the engine). The rev limit value will be displayed for two seconds on the tachometer.
Note: This rpm confirmation only displays when the Gray wire is being used to trigger the tachometer.

Vince@Meanstreets 10-22-2012 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sieg (Post 442401)
Could you supply video of the PV check procedure? :unibrow:

Technically Vince's engine could have fallen victim to the same circumstances......not that I would like to have it!

If that tach wire was inadvertantly grounded at some point, like when testing the starter or if the little Autoguage tach I'm using isn't communicating properly with the distributor the rev limit could "possibly" be set at 2K. Somewhat grasping at straws but that's trouble-shooting.

TACHOMETER INFORMATION
The MSD Ready-to-Run has a Gray wire that provides a 12 volt square wave, 20° duty cycle tachometer signal that will trigger most tachometers. It is recommended to connect this lead to your tach’s trigger input wire and check its operation. Note that the rpm limiter is extremely accurate and due to the variety of tachometers available, there may be differences in the displayed rpm.
PROGRAMMING THE REV LIMIT
A tachometer is required to set the rev limit. The limit is programmed by running the engine at half the desired rpm, then momentarily grounding the Gray tach output wire from the MSD. A Gray jumper wire is supplied to connect to the tach with another tee-splice coming off to use for programming. A switch may also be installed to ease adjustments of the limiter (Figure 15). The default rpm limit is 10,000 rpm and the limit is adjustable from 2,000 - over 10,000 rpm..
1. Start the engine and bring the rpm to half the desired rev limit (for a 6,000 rpm limit, raise and hold the rpm to 3,000).
2. While holding the rpm steady, short the Gray tach wire to ground for approximately one second. Note that the tach will go to zero while grounded.
3. The tach will now display the programmed rev limit amount for two seconds. If this value does not register on the tach, repeat the procedure and try a different ground source.
4. To confirm the rev limit value, turn the ignition key to the On position (without cranking the engine). The rev limit value will be displayed for two seconds on the tachometer.
Note: This rpm confirmation only displays when the Gray wire is being used to trigger the tachometer.

orr you can disconnect all that fancy stuff for now just to get it running and eliminate all the possibilities.
KISS me
I don't like first starts with no exhaust, just a personal preference. Its hard to hear the little issues that might happen.

Sieg 10-22-2012 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab (Post 442408)
or you can disconnect all that fancy stuff for now just to get it running and eliminate all the possibilities.
KISS me
I don't like first starts with no exhaust, just a personal preference. Its hard to hear the little issues that might happen.

The tach is kinda handy for break-in. :D It can be wired old school vs. using the designated lead. That internal rev limiter is a concern, so is a defective distributor the way my luck has been. :yes:

Understood on the exhaust........what do the pro-stock guys do? :unibrow:
I might cut it to length and tack it up........in my spare time. :thumbsup:


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