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Quote:

Originally Posted by Stielow (Post 537855)

(Not that guy in Woodland that can drive high HP stuff)

High torque stuff too!

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-m...-mrsgVNv-S.jpg

Back on traction control - KTM's new traction management system on their 1290 motors is modulating power via the throttle shafts. A qualified friend who's old-school anti-technology said the feel of the system is very impressive. Is throttle shaft/butterfly modulation being used in the automotive world?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sieg (Post 537861)

All new GM engines are throttle by wire, so yes the PTM system pulls throttle also. But, moving spark or dropping cylinders is faster. When you want and small correction in torque it is better than pulling throttle.

Mark

Does that pic make my feet look big ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by clill (Post 537866)

Does that pic make my feet look big ?

Not if you're at the Circus.

Thank you Mark.. I knew this would be a huge learning curve for me on these two subjects.. My biggest concerns on implimenting TC & ABS units that are designed for racing is the liabitiys.. I will have to have to discusss this with my customer..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stielow (Post 537855)

Traction control is a very tricky topic. Can it make you faster? Yes. Is it very hard to tune? Yes.

Not until the Z/28 was PTM (Performance Traction Management) ie Traction Control equal to drivers best effort or in some cases better. The other thing about PTM is it is much easier to drive fast.

BTM is very complicated. It is a fully integrated system that uses the following sensors:

Throttle position
4 wheel speed sensors
4 suspension travel sensors
Lateral sensor
Longitudinal sensor
Yaw sensor
Tire Pressure Sensors

All this feeds into a predictive tire models that predicts how much power the rear tires can take. We even use the suspension travel sensors to know if the car is airborne so not to cut power when it lands (Flying Car Mode).

So can it be done? Yes. Do I use it on my Hot Rods? No.

I don't have the time or the money to calibrate it. At 875 HP the integration time takes a long time and a lot of tires.

If I had a shop and sold cars to the public. (Not that guy in Woodland that can drive high HP stuff) I would think about slip based traction control to keep people from hurting themselves. My cars can do 3rd gear roll on burn outs! The pro race teams tune the TC systems to each track so it is easy. A one sizes fits all calibration is tricky.

Mark

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt.A (Post 537824)

I'm inclined to believe that cooling would help Wilwoods A LOT. When I ran their brakes on my Camaro the aggressive street pads faded quickly, and the track pads worked right up until the time I boiled the brake fluid. I'm probably about ten development cycles behind Mark though, but stainless or better pistons and some cooling look to be an improvement.

I was catering to the average guy on this site. For a mainly street application and autocross in a conventional brake set up, especially with manual brakes, I think heat is your friend. When you get to repetitive brake stop challenges and road racing, I agree completely. I cooked my brake fluid at almost every multi event and road course.

Maybe a set up when you can block it off for street and autocross.

Thanks for the explanation Mark...

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwhizz (Post 537915)

Another..................

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ttachment2.jpg

Man. I took a dump this big yesterday.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps79acfb95.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stielow (Post 537697)

This is the general idea.

The lower valance is open and the outer courners are brake cooling ducts and the center is for the heat exchangers.

Hi Mark,

I don't know for sure what is going on in the picture... but I'm assuming the changes in color represent changes in air speed. It looks like the air is flowing through the valance, around the rotors, and out through the wheels. What a great tool for designing the valance and ducting for cooling the brakes. No guess work here.

I would be interested if you had any more details about this picture... cool stuff.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stielow (Post 537676)

Oh yes we are using the DSE Hydraformed rails for brake cooling ducts. I need to be more careful on the pictures I post....

Matt opened up the rail and capped off internally and added a curved piece to turn the air. 18 X 11 wheel no problems lock to lock. :idea:

With the Anvil lower front valance it is wide open for brake ducts. We squared off the end of the frame rail and removed all the bumper bracket holes. Then added front duct that pull of the opening in the lower valance.

Now that you guys figured that I can post the rest of the pictures when I find them.

With Carbon Ceramic Brakes you need a lot of air flow to cool the brakes. Especially when you are making 875 HP. They don't have much thermal mass so much the cooling needs to be by air flow.

Mark

I cry foul! Where's my Royalty checks? The Beach Cruiser has be set up like this for a while! Maybe it is I that should be careful of the pictures I post :bang:

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/f...psaac03114.jpg