The Forgelines are officially in production and I should have them in about 30 days with fresh R888 rubber. Can't wait.

I am running my second Autocross Sunday. There are some things I wanted to fix and tweak before this weekends race. I encountered what I believed was some brake pad knock back. Basically, I would go into the first corner with great pedal and going into the next corner I would have to much pedal travel. It delayed my timing and I eventually just pumped them once between corners. (like I didn't have enough going on) So I jacked up the car when I got it home and checked for pad drag. The fronts seem to have plenty of drag after parking the car. The rears however had barely any to none. I decided to install a 2 psi residual valve to keep the pads up against the rotors and creat some drag. Evidentally there is enough play in the rear end to cause some knock back. I can't feel any and have never had this problem on the street. This weekend will let me know if it's fixed.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...ck1969/021.jpg

Upon inspection before the last autocross I found a leaky axle seal in the RR. It was starting to get onto the rotor and the drum brakes for the e brake. When the rear end was assembled whoever installed the axle seal must of used a seal driver that was a little small. As you can see in the photo the inside of the seal was caved in some and caused the leak. I can understand why...they are kind of a biatch to get in. You really need a seal driver kit with a 63mm driver. Axle is back in and the brakes are back on now.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...1969/011-1.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...ck1969/014.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...ck1969/019.jpg

Last but not least is I encountered enough wheel flex for the inside lip of the wheel to contact the shock bushing and housing in the LR. I also determined that my current setup will not work with my 18's. I have two brackets being cut at the water jet shop in the morning. I'm moving my shock mount in 2 inches for extra clearance that will keep the shock on the same plane with no bind and approx same length. A small ride height change wil need t be made but the rub will be gone and it will work for both 18's and 19's. The rear end bracket is 1/8 and I stepped it up to 1/4 just to be safe. The bracket will also have rounded corners and painted to match.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...1969/016-1.jpg

Great TCAND* tech as always Todd. :thumbsup:

I think I should build one like yours.

It's the only PT car with an online service manual. :D



*These cars are never done

Impressive work man. Good luck on the auto-x. Make us proud! :D

How close where was your rim to the lower shock mount?

Be sure to let me know where and when for Sunday. :unibrow:

Hey Todd I would resafetywire those brakes double neutral is not good and there is alot of slack in the wire would want your brakes rotors to loosen up on you at the event.

Todd, let me know how the shock brackets turn out. I may have to do the same thing. Infact if you to make and extra set PM me a price and I'll take them.

I enjoy the tweaking and dialing in of the car. Everytime I put a wrench on the car it's a little better. I've searched through many forums for ideas so I feel it's the least I can do to save somebody a headache.

The shock was probably 3/8" LR from the wheel. Bigtyme...feel free to steal the photo and send it to your local waterjet. They are only costing me $40. Let me make sure they work as intended first. I'll snap some pictures this weekend.

I see what your saying about the safety wire. There not as loose as they may look.

Todd, your car is a role model to all those little Camaros out there hoping to be pro-touring Camaros when then grow up. :D

I won't be making the race. One autocross and I already have a torn upper gbar bushing and bleeding the brakes I see a few bubbles where the machined surfaces meet RR. The two center bolts feel bottomed out or cross threaded. You can acutally wiggle the center bolts that hold the caliper together. All three other calipers feel seated and won't wiggle of course. It has great pedal and will hold for 2 minutes but after 2 mintues there is just enough to wet your finger. So you guys with stock g bar links might as well upgrade now if you plan to drive your car. I'm going to request a new caliper from Wilwood since it's clearly an assembly problem. What a buzz kill!:D

The good news is the residual valve has gave me the brake drag I need and the brackets turned out sweet. Time for a bud light.:cheers: