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-   Cooling: Radiators/Fans/Controllers (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=89)
-   -   PWM cooling fan(s) control using ECM (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=40215)

andrewb70 09-09-2020 06:54 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpd004 (Post 706354)
Thanks for the info. Yes...at 956 CFM, I can see why one never turns off while idling at 90+. Loud and annoying. It didn't get hot enough for the 2nd to turn on. It didn't overheat, but I never got stuck in one spot for a very long time.

I haven't had much luck with Griffin. This is the second. The first leaked. Summit replaced it. The second leaked as well in the same place as the first just out of warranty. I had a local shop repair it late last year. So far it's ok, but it may be just a matter of time before it does once again. I'm not duprised that the fans are such low flowing.

My dilemma is either to go ahead and work with what I have as the CFM of both together should be ok, or upgrade the fans alone hoping the radiator holds out. I've spent quite of time ensuring it's mounted with vibration and isolation in mind.

The SS radiator mounts sort of oddly if I was to try and locate the whole thing to try. Plus, who knows how that controller would get along with my E67. The SS is an E38 I believe.
Good info here:

https://www.tbssowners.com/threads/c...ontrol.241568/

Andrew

cpd004 09-12-2020 08:59 AM
So the plan for now is working with what I have. I'll use the Fusion controller and harness to run both of my smaller Spal fans together. They would flow just under 1900 CFM at max over most of the core. I'll see what happens.

My plan is to take power for the controller from a stud in my engine bay that is wired directly to my trunk mounted battery. This is would be a short 4.5' run to the controller. While I'd like to use a single Jcase fuse and 10 awg wire, I can't find one I like. I do have a 60A Maxi fuse and holder that I will use for now. Coming out of the controller, I was contemplating using a distribution block that will wire the two fans. I was thinking of further fusing these two at that block with smaller fuses(30A each), but this may be redundant. I do feel that these would blow much quicker should the need arise over the 60A upstream.

Any thoughts?

andrewb70 09-12-2020 09:14 AM
I'd keep it simple and just use a single 50-60 amp fuse.

cpd004 09-12-2020 09:19 AM
Definitely like the KISS method. I’m going to try the 50 and see what happens. On a whim, I have an SS sedan fan assembly coming to check out as well.

cpd004 09-15-2020 01:58 PM
The SS fan arrived today. The module does accept the Yazaki connector. Here are some pics in case anyone is interested in sizing:

https://i.postimg.cc/wxF5nrLH/DD2185...2872-ABF93.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/dt1RF9jC/01935-...BF6-A00266.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/sXr9RdTf/01-D04...30454-D8-F.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/8cyhWFNs/1352-E...-D9981-D26.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/j2qHL6VG/0-B199...913-A65-CD.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/63fVWjPr/0-F619...5-AFE68022.jpg

cpd004 09-26-2020 12:13 PM
My plan is to plumb the C6 pressure sensor into one of the two lines going in and out of the condenser. On my Vintage Air condenser, there is a larger (-08 EZ Clip) line on the top of the condenser that comes from the compressor. At the bottom is an -06 line that goes into the drier. From the drier, another -06 line goes into the under dash unit. My understanding is that the C6 pressure sensor should go to the -06 line coming out of the drier as it goes into the main under dash unit.


Is this the correct location for it?


The trinary switch from the initial relay non PWM fan system is at the top of the drier. Is there any need to switch back to the original binary switch or just leave the 3rd wire disconnected?

andrewb70 09-29-2020 04:46 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpd004 (Post 706879)
...


The trinary switch from the initial relay non PWM fan system is at the top of the drier. Is there any need to switch back to the original binary switch or just leave the 3rd wire disconnected?
I don't know about the other stuff, but you can keep the trinary switch, and just ignore the fan switch part of it.

Andrew

dontlifttoshift 09-30-2020 04:30 AM
I don't see any reason the pressure sensor can't go in either the 6 or the 8 hose. I have done charge ports in the 6 before and have not noticed any drastic differences in pressure readings. There are EZ clip fitting that will accept the pressure sensor......I never found one for an 8. There are also driers that will do the same.

I try to set the fan/ac pressure table with the engine cold. The goal is find a minimum speed that will keep high side pressure below 250 psi. I do this with my analog pressure gauges attached to ensure that the scaling for my sensor is reasonably accurate.

cpd004 09-30-2020 08:51 AM
Thank you both. The -06 it is then. I also run an 07 Trailblazer E67 ECM. The lowest temp available to me is 192. There is an updated OS (2 bar) that will lower it, so I'll try and do that without-hopefully-affecting how the car runs now. My plan is to only take advantage of the lower fan table, but continue to run a 1 bar map.

andrewb70 09-30-2020 09:08 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpd004 (Post 706991)
Thank you both. The -06 it is then. I also run an 07 Trailblazer E67 ECM. The lowest temp available to me is 192. There is an updated OS (2 bar) that will lower it, so I'll try and do that without-hopefully-affecting how the car runs now. My plan is to only take advantage of the lower fan table, but continue to run a 1 bar map.
You don't really need any fan below 192.


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