That. I don't start fans until 200-205. I want to stay off the thermostat.

Is there a 'how to' remove pins from the round Yazaki connector?

I should make one. The white cap pops off...then the release tabs for the terminals are accessible.

Thanks! Worked perfectly.

Now on to another issue. Everything hooked up and tune modified with the same settings as in this thread in an early post for my E67. As soon as I plug the main connector to the PWM in with the car off, the fans immediately turn on. This on a cold non running car. While it was sealed and looked new, the bottom does have a slight 'burned electronics' smell. These modules are supposed to have fail safe provisions built in. I wonder if this unit failed and is now in a default always on state despite no signal. Turning the car on makes no change. Scanning shows the fan off until around 198 when the monitor line switches to 'on'. I tested this without the fans operating to get it to temp.

I don't have another unit to swap in to see if the module has failed, nor do I have an oscilloscope.

Worse yet (or better now in the garage) I found a very small pinhole in the core of the radiator. Griffin sucks!

I accidentally hooked up the power side to the controller backwards. The fan would run all the time...and then it eventually smoked the controller. Might want to double-check that. If you smoked the controller, time to get the Volt fans.

I just double checked everything and realized a stupid mistake on my part-I think. The PWM signal is likely ground in a wave. I grounded all the grounds together to the body. In other words, I took both black wires from the module and both of my fan grounds all to the same point on the body. I undid the grounds and the fans no longer come on immediately, but no fans despite the command in the tune at ECT. I do believe the module is fried and the leak is getting worse.


I plugged the SS fan in to the round Yazaki connector and it came on immediately with the car off as a pusher. So the input for that module is reverse of what the C6 controller is.

I hooked up the SS fan with the correct (reversed from C6 module) input, fired up the car and the fans came on slowly at around 198 or so. They got slightly quicker as it got to 209 but I didn't go any further because of the leak and the fact that fan assembly was just leaning against the car. You couldn't hear them but the airflow at that low speed was nice.

My C6 module has to be fried. The SS one would take some work to put in it's place. It has Yazaki connectors on all three sides. One in and one for each fan.

Either way I need to make a decision on the radiator.

So frustrating!

Go junk yard hunting for a Ford Fusion at the local junk yard and score yourself a C6 fan controller. Should be about $30.

Andrew

I thought some of you might like seeing PWM fan control in action.



Andrew

So I have the Holley Dominator EFI and a Ron Davis radiator with dual Spal brushed fans. What else would be needed to make this work?