In my old 69 Vette, I did a 454 bored 60 over with the Edelbrock RPM package (heads/cam) and then duplicated their 540 hp proven package. I topped that off with a PRO-FLO EFI unit for good measure.

It made great power - rumbled like a pack of angry harleys...and was a kick to look at with the hood up. No need to spin it hard to ram you into the seat.

I ran a Richmond six and 3.55 gears in the rear. Very balanced, very strong combo.

SO AWESOME!!! Should be fun.:yes: :cheers:

That sounds like a nice motor. I would like to do EFI as well.
Is that your car in your advatar? Looks nice. Got any pics of it?:thumbsup:

69 myway- That sound like a great package in the vette. Do you remember what the 6th gear ratio was in the richmond? I have not decided which rear gears to go with yet or the final drive ratio in the trans.
EFI and forced induction will come later. The engine is being built with a very stout bottom end so it will handle the upgrades down the road.
The engine and the rest of the car is going to cost me plenty now without adding those to the list. I'll have to save my pennies for later.
Eric

Here is the parts list.
 

Ok guys, here it is, all of the parts I plan on using for my engine build.
Please feel free to give opinions.

489 cid (454 truck block 030 over)
4.250 Scat forged crank
6.385 Scat H beam forged rods with ARP bolts
SRP forged 18cc pistons
Brodix Race Rite heads with "CNC option"
Custom grind solid roller cam approx .250" int/.260" ex (to be dialed in soon)
1.7/1.7 roller rockers
Isky Red Zone roller lifters
Edelbrock Performer RPM air gap intake
Pro Systems HP1000 carb
HEI w/ MSD 6AL box

This should be good for just over 630 hp at 6000rpm
and 625 tq at 4000 rpm

I am pretty much duplicating another build by Mike Lewis Racing Engines
That motor did 634 hp at 6000 and 627 tq at 4100 rpm.

The cool part is it had 540 lb/ft @ 3100 rpm!!
And was turning 475 hp @4000 rpm. That is the same rpm as peak torque.

With a TKO600 behind it in a '70 Camaro it should really get with the program!

So let's hear it guys. What are your thoughts? I do value evryones opinion on this so please let it fly.

Thanks,
Eric:cheers:

Sounds good to me:thumbsup: Now is the time to figure out your intentions for the car. I'd go for a quality oil pan incase you decide to race. I'd also go with a vacuum advance distributor or programable advance.

Looks liek a very solid build that will be an awesome driver.

I'm also running a solid roller and Isky Redzones (with EZ roll option) and decided to run an accusump oil accumlator to eliminate dry starts and help with oiling on the road course. It is really nice to hit the switch and watch the oil pressure come up and 3 quarts of oil pump through the engine before you even touch the key.

After one day on the track I am also in the middle of an oil cooler install as my oil temps were over 300º in 3 laps with the coolant staying under at 200º. I can get the oil over 280º with some hard driving on the twisty mountain roads here too.

Make sure you have a good radiator/fan setup if you'll be driving in traffic at all.

My TKO600 is handling 700ft-lbs with no problem so far but I only have 1100miles on it.

That sounds awesome Eric.
Looks like it will be a nice engine and strong too.
Keep us posted buddy!:thumbsup: :cheers:

I'm getting ready to install an accumlator and oil cooler as well. I just can't find anywhere I want to mount a honking 3 quart system...I'll be going with 1.5-2 quarts and the manual valve. I'll probably leave it off on the street for reliability.

The 3 quart was a complete nighmare to mount. I had just enough room to put it on the firewall but it isn't exactly beautiful there. I would want a minimum of 2 quarts personally for road course duty as I see my oil pressure start to drop with the sump off when pushing it on offramps let alone long sweepers on the track. I would be afraid of a 1.5 quart running out of volume before the end of the corner.

I just turn mine on for the pre-lube and then kill the power to the valve for normal driving as well. The accusump EPC valve acts as a check valve so even with it off it will still charge it to the highest pressure hit while driving. Mine sat for about a month without losing an ounce of pressure as well which will make the spring startup easy.