GOOD MAN!!

Various RPM's for "exciting" the alternator - kind of like a woman... they're all different!

Typically 1300 or so should get 'er done -- and you only need "blip" the rpm's up there to get 'er started (unlike a woman)... So if you can take it to 2000 and hold it a minute -- then you'll be sure it's started charging. It only takes once per "start" to kick it in -- then the internal regulator takes over.

i see...

why couldnt you have been my neighbor? lol

If you have a digital volt meter, here's a handy chart for battery state of charge:
STATE OF CHARGE ----VOLTS engine off.
100%---------12.66
75%----------12.45
50%----------12.24
25%----------12.06
0%-----------11.89

Radiator fans draw a lot of amps and can run a battery down in a short time.

Alot of good information in this thread. I'm glad you asked this question, I'm learning alot of things I didn't know.

VIC --

We are neighbors -- only about 135 miles and a couple of fences between us...

BTW -- this is EXACTLY what these forums are about right?! People helping other people. Sharing their excitement! Sharing a piece of themselves! It just doesn't get any better than that!''

PS BTW -- I like lots of the people on here - can't say that about a couple of my neighbors!!! :rofl: I'm waiting for the guy in back of me to kick/move -- then I'll buy his house and doze it... put up a "clean space" over there... and would have 2 1/2 acres and complete privacy.

i would be lucky to get 10000 sq ft if i dozed my back neighbors house down lol!

You know what I am starting to believe, that my battery is not holding enough amps for my car, after 3 starts, the completely charged battery should not struggle, or would it? its a brand new battery and i have had it tested and it holds its capacity and is perfectly fine..

thanks pozzi for that chart, def will print it out when doing my tests... and i was running the fan direct prior to my engine being started.. i just dont want to have a hot date and it having trouble starting! i have a reputation to keep to, all my friends say

"...if you dont get to sleep with white milfs on a regular basis, this car is a complete waste of resources, and i don't think i want to be your friend.."

Still sounds like your killing the thing with a bad ground loop or something. If your battery is 100% & it's dying after 3 start attempts, you're still pissing up a rope.

1. Take off both battery leads.

2. Check the resistance from the battery ground wire to the starter body / mounting bolt. It should be less than 2-3 ohms (calibrate your DVM first to see what your baseline # is).

Let me know what you get. I'd recommend getting rid of that 1-wire alt. Unless it's a street rod, the extra few wires you'll gain will be worth the low-RPM charge. Once you do this, you'll never look back. The racecar trick sounds cool, but you wind up with just about the same amount of wiring that you'd have with a normal setup.

You are correct. Obviously this trick was done for a specific reason. I have been sifting through folders and can't find the diagram yet. I'm still trying. However, i'm not sure if this was stated, but once you get the one wire charging, does it not stay charging at any RPM? So a good throttle blip should get you there. I could be completely wrong here.

welcome back to my never ending starter problem. Hopefully will get the regulars! :willy:

anyways, video's are easier than words... Why am i getting this noise from the pinion and starter, the pinion is popping out, and hitting the flywheel, but as you can see with the video, sometimes it hits, and sometimes it meshes perfectly to turn the flywheel... as of right now, i have it shimmed at .040" right now, clearly its not enough.. but will shimming it more fix the problem, won't i be going to far away with .060"?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12AvWBHLB4w

Vic --

It's so hard to diagnose this stuff over the internet...

Is this the same starter you've had all along? To me it "sounds" weak... not sure if that would be because your battery is low or the starter bendix is weak - or the wiring is too light of gauge etc....

Does your battery cable connect to the starter?

Does your alternator connect there too?

What's the voltage of your battery?

The shimming is more about the retraction of the starter motor - and to have enough clearance etc... not the actual engagement. You're having an engagement issue. Of course this could cause an engagement issue if the starter gear was too tight to the flywheel - but you seem to understand that part and I'd assume you have it shimmed just fine.

Did you put a Ford starter on your Chevy??:rofl: