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Glad you found the issue....
Chalk up the "fixing parts" as part of the hot rod world... I've hardly ever had a part that fit the way I wanted - or the first time - or that worked etc. Friday - I was installing power windows in this 55 Chevy project I'm building for my buddy. They're the type that you use the stock window crank on - so they're really just a "momentary switch" with a return to neutral. They're like $99 EACH... so I fab a mount - got the window guts all installed ... wire up the switch just like it says to -- NO WORKIE. So scratch my head - check the instructions - yep that's all good - check the power to the switch - good - make the window go up and down with a tool that I have to supply 12Vs -- yep -- window works just like it should -- check my wiring again - hook it back up - NO WORKIE... Remove the switch - get the Fluke out - do a continuity check - get continuous continuity (3 pins on switch - A is continuous to B - which is 12V + C is ground) between A and B - activate switch with the handle - and it should disconnect A from B(12V+) - and apply 12V- from Pin C. Since there are two switches in the handle (one for up and one for down) these little micro switches need to "reverse polarity" - so either supply 12V+ to one wire to the motor - and supply 12V- to the other wire to the motor (the motor is a 2 wire motor - grounded thru the case).... BUT try as I might - no way am I getting ANYTHING out of PIN C... SO now I have to take this switch all apart -- and figure out what's wrong -- well - the eccentric has two flat spots on it - and those flat spots are what OPEN the switch (switches for this application are "normally closed")... so I have to pull the eccentric out and "flat" the spots some more until they'll let the switch open... NOW --- ALL the previous makes little difference and I only added it to show how much work I had to do to figure out what the problem was -- and then figure out a solution. You buy a part -- hope it works - when it doesn't - you have to reverse engineer the dang thing to figure out what it's SUPPOSED TO DO - then figure out how to make it work -- OR send it back and hope the replacement (after you wait a week or two) works... I never get mad at this kind of stuff -- I just figure it's part of "hot rodding" and in fact -- my buddies and I all just count on having to "hot rod" any parts we get. :lol: |
Greg,
I am coming to your house when it's time to reverse engineer my hot rod parts. Now if I can get you to reverse engineer my wife and figure that out I would be truly impressed!:rofl: |
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Blessings, AMS |
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Same here Greg. Welcome to my world.
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Hi Guys, I know I got here late, Rich sent me a Pm a while back on the other site but I have been off line for a while with some physical problems. Rich sent me the PM because I run a similar setup and he know I have had nothing but trouble with my FAST dist.
I am seriously considering going to a crank trigger with a different dist on my engine. FWIW the interior of my dist was in worse shape then Rich's, I disassembled it, sand blasted and powder coated it. I believe the the corrosion is actually from the OZONE created by the electrical corona of the spark. I deal with this all the time at my work and OZONE is very corrosive. Rich, I'll contact you soon. |
Hey John,
Hope your feeling better. I was astonished at how quickly and how deep the corrosion penetrated the different metals in the distributor. Ive heard about ozone formed from lightning. I imagine similar discharge can occur inside the distributor cap, especially if there is enough fluid in the environment. Thanks Rich |
Thanks Rich, I ended up with torn ligaments in the muscles that run from my neck to shoulder. It's been very inconvenient.
Not to hijack this thread or to turn it into a bashing session but I am extremely disappointed in my FAST parts. Although the XFI does seem to operate correctly it is not as user friendly as they would have you believe and their customer service has gone to trash. I can never get through to Dave or Justin and it takes days if not a week or longer to get a return call from them. For the money we spent with them I would expect better service. As far as the dual sync dist goes both you and I got some of the first ones shipped. Probably close to the first 5. I wonder if they have made any improvements since we got ours? I've tried to question them on who actually makes the housing but they will not disclose their mfg. and lastly as you and others have seen getting a cap that fits snug without going back to FAST seems impossible. Even with the index I can move my cap about 1/16" either direction and it has no clamping force whatsoever. So like you, once I am healed up and able to work on the car once again getting rid of that dist is a top priority. I have considered going to a crank trigger at a minimum and possibly coil packs to get rid of the dist all together. I have also read lately that Accell has come out with their own dual sync dist but I have not looked into it at all yet. |
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I've heard more issues with the dual synchs than any other distributor setup. They are a great idea, but seem hard or confusing to get properly phased. Mine actually turned out to be defective as per Accel, they replaced it with another defective one, and I gave up............. :yes: Jody |
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I agree (edited out "concur" I don't use words like that - what the hell was I thinking?) -- Dual Sync is a "problem".... I'm on #3.... but am still using it -- and running sequential and everything seems to be working so far. Laid it down while working on something - had the cap end down a bit - some oil ran down and got on the board - big no no! Took me a couple days to figure that 'issue' out! Once cleaned up - no problem - but it was one of those things that you couldn't 'see'... and just lucky I found it! |
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