Pads had a stronger initial bite when I first got them and that seems to have faded. I do like a strong initial bite and am looking for a combo that will heat up quick and be best on short runs for time trials.
I haven't ever tried to lock them up so I couldn't answer that but as I previously stated I loved the way they worked when I first put them in.
So far no fade issues.
I'm running the same brake set up that Dale has but rotors are slotted only..

Remind me what calipers those are.

.

PBR 2 piston C5

When you are on slicks ... and have the grip ... the Wilwood H pads produce "mean" braking force & right now.

The braking force would go up 22% from your .50 CoF pads. Could be worth a try. Just an FYI ... never go to the track with new pads ... or anything new ... without taking your old stuff with you ... just in case you don't like the new stuff.

Thanks Ron....I'm going to look those up. :thumbsup:

I forgot to discuss when, where & why drilled rotors have a place.

For the type of competitions you're running, if ...
a. The track is short or has tight corners
b. The difference in corner speed & top speed is significant
c. Your lap times are affected significantly by your ability to accelerate & decelerate
d. Your brake temps are well within the safe range from overheating
e. You already have small diameter rotors
f. The drilled rotor is priced modestly for your application
g. You are serious about your maintenance program
h. You are serious about competing at the top level

Drilled rotors make sense then, because:
1. You can afford to replace them at the first sign of heat stress
2. The lighter rotating weight will accelerate & decelerate quicker
3. Improving your lap times

AutoX doesn't build much brake heat at all. So I love drilled rotors for AutoX competition as long as your maintenance program is good.

Same with other short track racing. We ran them on the rear of our 2550# NASCAR Modifieds, where the temperature window was around 400° or less.


P.S. Since I wrote this before having my morning coffee, I expect I'll need to edit this later. :)

.

Wow, great thread. Ron you add so much helpful info, thank you very much.

Darn now I have to make some more decisions.... :confused59:

Here is a link to a good 101 on brake system design.
Brake Systems 101 SAE

I came upon this thread in a search for finding the appropriate sized master cylinder for my application. I am building a 69 firebird track-street car with a 570 horse Texas Speed LS3, Ridetech stage 2 front and rear, Toyo R888 275 and 315's, Wilwood FNSL 13" 6 piston front and 12" D154 2 piston rear. I was considering the DSE master cylinder-booster combo, but don't know which one to order if it is even appropriate. Thoughts?