Holy crap i cant stop drooling! I'm gunna have to ditch all my SPC stuff and go with your universal front frame kit for my next revision!

Hey Ben, what are the holes in front of the shock tower on the front?

Also, do you have a sheet metal package for the trans tunnel modification and above the rear end in the trunk? I've been talking to Roger there in tech support and I'd like to get all of the sheet metal to modify the floor so it is ready to fit the chassis when I eventually by one.

They're to mount forward down bars from the firewall to those mounting points.

Thanks for covering that question Ahmad!

Backing up a bit, some of the work we did to the under side of the car, cleaning up and smoothing the firewall and prepping everything for paint and box liner.

http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/...psoermwhlw.jpg

http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/...ps989wbffk.jpg

http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/...pstsfyri4q.jpg

http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/...psp3rmwdqv.jpg

We like to use black epoxy primer to seal everything first, including the interior areas. Then in the exposed areas and the trunk we use spray on box liner as a second application. It's super durable, has a nice color and sheen to it, and along with the texture gives a nice contrast to the shiny frame and suspension parts. We're like form and function here.

http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2xhrncby.jpg

http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/...psbg9kyflt.jpg

http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/...psostkunbv.jpg

http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/...pseq1wgzqf.jpg

http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/...pskmeqhsr3.jpg

Looks good, Ben. Keep up the great work, guys!

where was this a year and a half ago when I started modifiying the hell out of mine.? :( do the wheel wells need to be rolled I would assume. and does the upper part of the fender have to be trimmed as well as the inner fenders? how is the clearance with the inner tie rod bolts to oil pan clearance at full lock? is the body solid mounted ?and one last one for now what is the outside to outside of the front and rear tires? looks great keep up the great work!! love the ride height!!!

Hi Eric, I can answer some of these questions.


With 315's in the front, it can be as narrow as 69.2" outside sidewall to outside sidewall. 71.2" with 335's. It can be wider ... with less backspacing of the rims. But it can't be narrower.

As always thanks for the input Ron!

@E Rodz- That depends on wheel offset and tire size. If you want the fatties on there yes, as with any build similar to this some mild modding is necessary. On the GTO Jeremy rolled up the lip, then trimmed the outer side of the inner fenders so they're straight rather than curving downward and then added about 2" of sheet metal in that area, shaped to contour the outer fender. That moved the inner fenders inward 2" for more turning radius clearance. At the lip the inner fenders are bolted to the outers on the front and rear and on top are sealed off to the outer fender with a rubber strip. Jeremy also did a little bit of reshaping around the control arms since having optimum geometry meant relocating the upper mounts. The end result looks factory, unless you really knew the small details of these cars.

The body is solid mounted, using anodized aluminum bushings that we manufacture in house. You have two options, A. factory height, and B. half height which are about 1/2" tall and drop the car that extra 1/2" without change in suspension geometry.

http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/...psbezs6mzb.jpg

thanks for your help Ron! I really appreciate it! this answers a lot of questions !
[QUOTE=Ben@SpeedTech;653914]As always thanks for the input Ron!

@E Rodz- That depends on wheel offset and tire size. If you want the fatties on there yes, as with any build similar to this some mild modding is necessary. On the GTO Jeremy rolled up the lip, then trimmed the outer side of the inner fenders so they're straight rather than curving downward and then added about 2" of sheet metal in that area, shaped to contour the outer fender. That moved the inner fenders inward 2" for more turning radius clearance. At the lip the inner fenders are bolted to the outers on the front and rear and on top are sealed off to the outer fender with a rubber strip. Jeremy also did a little bit of reshaping around the control arms since having optimum geometry meant relocating the upper mounts. The end result looks factory, unless you really knew the small details of these cars.

The body is solid mounted, using anodized aluminum bushings that we manufacture in house. You have two options, A. factory height, and B. half height which are about 1/2" tall and drop the car that extra 1/2" without change in suspension geometry.

Thanks for the response this really helps paint a bigger picture! man I wish you guys would have built this a year and a half ago! although I can fabricate a chassis myself it is so time consuming and there are so many details to work out I wish I would have gone this route!!! great job on the engineering and design guys!