I've just gone through something similar for different reasons. Booster died. replaced it and wow. I think in the 5 years I've owned the car the booster never worked right, as the new booster has the pedal so soft it's crazy and then when it does brake it locks em up.

Didn't have a prop valve it does now.

For me the soft brake pedal is that the car originally had manual brakes, not assisted. The pedal ratio is 6:1 which is not ideal for a boosted application. A 4:1 or 5:1 ratio is what's required.

Assume from reading that article this is something you've also considered. I'm looking for a new pedal now

No need for a new pedal!! Just remove it -- it's simple to take out -- and drill a new hole in it for the proper ratio (move it down toward the bottom of the pedal about an 1" or 2"). DONE.

Greg, I was looking at that, my question is angle. I have to take the pedal out tomorrow to measure. I know it's 6:1 as that's what the chassis manual says (car only had manual brakes from factory, no power assist). I'm concerned new hole will result in too great an angle and may result in a "sticking" situation. Guess I will find out more tomorrow when I remove it. I agree it probably only needs a 1" move on the hole.

*Only For Advanced Fabricators*
 

This post is only for advanced fabricators that have the skill, knowledge, and experience to do this properly (!).

If you cannot relocate the pedal rod connection point without causing a linkage bind condition, there IS one more alternate option that some do not consider in these discussions, and that is to cut the pedal and lengthen it. This should only be done with a very powerful TIG / Stick welder and very experienced welding skills...

This can effectively increase the mechanical brake pedal ratio considerably, but will make the pad of the pedal lower which poses some limitations as to how far you can go.

:cheers:

I spoke with Tobin (Kore 3) and he normally uses a 7/8ths bore on his C5 setup which has a larger area contact. After he spent a few minutes he believes my pedal should be a lot firmer so I will re-bleed them one more time. He suggested removing the lines one more time and plug one so I bleed them one at a time. I will try this weekend and see what happens. Thanks for your help. :waveflag:

I used a 7/8 master with C5 brakes and I found braking to be OK but not what I was hoping for. Went to a more aggressive pad compound if I remember right.

Don

7/8th MC is just about all I've ever used... and the brakes have always been stellar! I've put on Baers - Wilwoods - and any number of other combinations.

Did you check the Wilwood MC to see if it's one of their recalled versions??

I will call them tomorrow. So what I am hearing is 7/8ths more pressure than 15/16ths but softer pedal?

I'd stick with the 15/16t until you verify it's not a math problem or air. I personally didn't like the 7/8 due to pedal travel.

After I bled the MC I put caps in and checked for air. I could not push the pedal and it did not move after holding it for a while so I feel pretty darn sure the MC is bled correctly. I might re-bleed the system one more time. From what I have learned dropping down to 7/8ths the pedal would be softer.