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Everyone I've talked to has said you can run up to a full point MORE compression on an EFI motor... over a carb.
Factory boys are running 12:1's and getting away with it... |
Really just trying to educate myself more on the LSX builds. I know aluminum heads allow about a point more but my point was, is the knock sensor retarding timing to much if you push the limit? Why does EFI allow that much more compression?
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Hopefully Steve jumps in here and tells us what the motorheads think...
But I've always been told that aluminum heads are good for about a point - and EFI is good for another one... and of course all of this is "STATIC" compression because the real number that nobody mentions is CYLINDER PRESSURE... and that is controlled (somewhat) by the cam... |
Without hijacking Steve's thread, a 114 will build more cylinder pressure than a 112 or 110. I imagine it's ok due to a pretty radical camshaft for a LSX. Steve will fill us in...
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Steve:
I was just reading of all the work you are doing to Penny. I really appreciate you running such a good and thorough thread for everyone I know it must take a ton of time. Penny is looking just great and I for one am learning a lot from your build. I'll try and do the same for everyone when Lateral-1 starts it's new facelift. Take care and keep up the good work. Regards, Ty O'Neal |
Steve,
Did you say that the auto rad gave you extra clearance between the motor and the radiator itself? If so, how much space did you gain? |
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Precise fuel controll when tuned correctly. |
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I'm a pyro.... and as such understand a bit about "compressing" explosive chemicals... I think that we all know "more" compression is a problem and that for the problems it creates - the power increase is actually minimal... Which got me thinking about why the factory LS motors use what we used to think was an unworkable compression ratio on todays pump gas... But they seem to make great power - AND use LESS fuel to do it - and they're using leaner mixtures (except at WOT). So when you compress LESS fuel/air - you get a little more "bang" for your buck... So.... I'm thinking they're on to something here.... (and they employ built in safeguards). You take less fuel - atomize it really well - get more flow into the cylinder with better heads - then you compress the hell out of it... and you're making some power while sipping gas. The gas sipping is partly due to the leaner A/F they can run (coming back to the EFI issue)... The control with knock sensors... AND let's not forget the 6 speeds and tall gears... (low rpms per mile). BUT you have power when you want it because of great heads - and high compression ratios... then toss in some 12:5 AF at WOT.... Just thinking out loud here.... |
Aluminum heads run cooler than the
old steel heads. You can run a full point more on aluminum than you can steel.
Steve, you car is finally heading back in the right direction. Can't wait to hear how the new motor runs. Are you bringing it back this way for RTTH? |
I love ready this thread. Steve, it so neat to see how you keep improving on Penny.
Let me know next time you need a photo shoot Bitch, LOL. :thumbsup: |
with regards to undersquare engines, high revs and longevity
Audi have been building engines to that spec for ages, and they last well into 200k miles |
Car is just amazing Steve....Congrats on the promotion! Still interested in the magazine stickers when ya get some time. Keep up the good work!
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I'm in the process of reading two books by Greg Banish ( Designing and Tuning High-Performance Fuel Injection Systems , and Engine Management: Advanced Tuning ). Both are excellent and go into some depth on how far engineers go to calculate fuel delivery / control, spark ect ....... I love my LS, I know I'm breaking the law. It's to easy to produce excellent power from these engines. |
Hey what a small world, My car is at Fast Eddies Fab also !:cheers:
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Cooler questions
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How did you choose the cooler size? Did you consider using one of Setrabs fan packs? I was looking at the 920 fanpack combo thinking I could gain the oil cooling without direct air flow that would block my radiator. |
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Yea, but given how large my radiator is and the cooler sized we determined it wasn't necessary. The new Autorad radiator is so large that I doubt this matters much. lol |
Update time:
Front valance has been welded up.. ditched the license plate holes and closed up all the spoiler holes since I'm going to be running a new gizmo from bottomfeeder air that pushes the spoiler back, like on Jackass. bottomfeeder air deal: http://www.techafx.com/backgrounder.php http://i44.tinypic.com/u6jw1.jpg The oil cooler plumbing was finished over at Fast Eddies. It's all stainless tubing and XRP fittings. I will have to paint the blue ones black since that's all they had. Now the core support can go off to power paint. http://i39.tinypic.com/11vlkzc.jpg The bottom side has been scraped, seam sealed and re-shot with Wurth Stoneguard.. came out nice and should be easier to clean. The newly powerpainted, rebuilt and STRAIGHT housing is back under the car. Had new bearings put on the axles so everything is fresh and new. http://i39.tinypic.com/nm1btv.jpg Working on the engines as we speak.. been so swamped between this and work that I hardly have time to come online.. add in that our office is moving and it's been nuts. Now to get her done by March 31st.. :nilly: |
I vote for it being superior combustion and air flow.
Do you have 91 octane gas like we do in California? David Quote:
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Its the black 68 RS, they are mocking up a rear wing and a front lower spoiler, for Spectre's R&D.
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Steve,
I noticed in your photo, the watts is up one hole from where we had it before. It needs to be in the second hole up from the bottom. Top trailing link of the 3 link was what we discussed on the phone, (at least that was what I was talking about, it was in the middle hole, but can be tried in the top hole, that's where OLC link is. David |
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I thought it was in the third hole up, not the second? Here's a shot when it was at your shop: http://i44.tinypic.com/qns506.jpg |
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Info? what do you need. History or tech info? What magazine are you speaking of ?
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For Camaro Performers Magazine.. where I pretend to work. lol |
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Steve,
Here's a pic from when I relocated the shocks. The 2nd hole up was where the pivot was, we tried the 3rd hole before the rear bar was put on, then went back to the 2nd hole. 4th hole had fuel filter interference problems. We have OLC on the 3rd hole and it works well, but you would need to soften the rear bar a little to compensate for the extra roll stiffness created by the higher rear roll center. Here's another pic of the rear axle at full bump and lean. David |
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Oh, we installed the new 275-lb rear springs (instead of 310). Should we leave the sway bar as is or move it back one notch stiffer like it was before Optima? |
Hey Steve, PM sent to your email address. Thanks again.
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Steve,
Leave the bar where it was, the spring rate change makes very little difference on balance compared to a sway bar. I'd like to try the watts higher some time, but it will require softening the rear bar. David |
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Now that's what I call
BORED OUT! |
Looks like they lightly honed it to clean it up.
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Is Penny going to be ready to run come the first week of April? I can't wait to hear this beast on the road course! :thumbsup:
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Tommorow: Paint firewall, inners, lower valance Friday: finish line hone, replace cam bearings, drop off pistons (that arrive tomorrow) Saturday: color sand and buff painted parts Monday: finish hone block, hone rods to piston pins Tuesday: balance rotating assembley Wednesday: remember we forgot something and get it Thursday: build engine Friday: dyno engine Saturday-Tuesday: install engine, fire it up, start installing sheetmetal Wednesday: finishing touches, buff and polish Thursday April 1st - chassis dyno tune Friday: race So see.. there's plenty of time.. :_paranoid |
Gosh Steve.... When do you have time to write all those great stories?? :rofl:
See ya there! |
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Ouch...:_paranoid
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