Wish you were closer would gladly help with the gaps,sure takes a lot of patience and maybe a few drywall repairs,good luck.

Thanks...I've run out of patience though. I haven't touched the front cap lately. As a matter a fact, I removed it all. I did finally get around to prepping and spraying the inner cowl with epoxy primer. I installed the Vintage Air unit. I then prepped the back side of the repop dash top with epoxy primer, then white spray enamel followed by some strategically placed Dynamat Xtreme. After all that, I finally welded the dash top back onto the car. Ironically, the dash top was the first panel I removed from this car. Years later, I finally get around to installing the new one. I removed the dash completely after realizing someone had sprayed an entire gallon of paint on it. I'll get it sandblasted here soon and then reinstall it.

I really would like to get the front cap fitted, as it should, before I put it back up on the rotisserie to finish out the bottom of the car.

Yesterday, I spent most of the day finishing up my rotisserie. It took me a while to find someone to CNC laser cut some plate for the roto I designed.

I have gotten the slave side of my rotisserie mostly done. I still need to finish up some welds, weld on some gussets and some braces. Also I need to complete the extension arms of it. I never realized this roto would take this long to fabricate and assemble. The first one I built was done in two days. I believe I have about six days total already in this one. The master side is going to take a bit more welding and fabricating still. It will probably take me two or three more days to say I'm done with this project.

I checked with a local restoration shop about aligning my front cap. He told me he would be a few weeks out in having time to mess with it as he was busy readying some cars for the coming show season. I decided to bear it and get back to tweaking on it myself. I don't know if the stars were aligned properly or what, but I managed to get a fitment that I can live with.:D I have nice gaps, not precision perfect, but well within acceptable tolerances. I still can't seem to get the fenders to tuck in enough to stay on the same plane as the doors, but I have them very close.

I recently purchased a 'newly tooled' Golden Legion deck lid as well. I installed it and the fit was terrible. There's one of two ways to get it to fit correctly. Either take a hole saw or cut off wheel and remove the installed deck lid to hinge mounts and reinstall them in a different position or remove my EMS billet trunk hinges and go back to the factory steel hinges, which I did yesterday. The steel hinges allow more adjustment, but still not enough. However, I can do some welding by adding a small bit of metal to the hinge so that I can move the mount holes over a bit. By doing this, the trunk lid will have a perfect fit!! This is the best fitting deck lid I have had out of 3 repops and 2 factory GM lids. It just needs a little ingenuity to get that perfect fit:)

I can now finally move on to finishing the body prep for paint!:hairpullout:

I have some polished EMS billet trunk hinges that will be going up for sale if anyone wants them.

Congrats on the progress. :thumbsup:
That has to be a huge relief

From :bang: to :relax:

those gaps are definitely fun

It's been a while since I have posted in my thread. I haven't touched my car other than mocking up my audio system to finalize speaker placement. I didn't bother with taking pictures as I'm sure most in this crowd aren't that interested in car audio. I did do a more extensive audio build than I originally set out to do. I haven't messed around with audio much in quite a few years, so I decided to do a high-end system on this car.

Enough of all that. Last week I finally broke down and decided I was tired of the gravel turn-around at my house. Years of driving on it had caused ruts and grass had taken it over, so it wasn't very attractive. I had 4 dump truck loads of dirt put in and 30 yards of concrete poured. I still have about 250 ft of gravel driveway to the street that I have not addressed yet. Maybe before the summer is over I can get that section taken care of.

Since I finally have some concrete outside of my garage, I decided to pull my car out so I can get a view of it from a distance. It certainly helped as I noticed some things I didn't notice before. Since I have installed the Ridetech rear 4-link in the car, I have noticed my car sits 3/4" higher on the drivers side as opposed to the passenger side. With the car out of the garage, I can also see the driver rear wheel is further forward in the wheelwell than the passenger side. You can see this in the pictures. Would that misalignment possibly cause the drivers side to be higher than the passenger side? I do not have the coilovers in the car right now. I made brackets to maintain ride height. The are all the exact length from side to side, so they are not causing the problem.

Another thing, do I need to tuck in the rear wheels a bit further in the wheel wells? They seem to be sticking out a bit far. I must say, I have been on the fence about my wheel purchase since I bought them, but I really do like the way they look standing off looking at the car. They certainly aren't the Forgelines I want, but they look good to me.

Looking good!!

How wide are your wheels? What's the BS? If you can move them inboard some then you should be able to get them tucked up some?

As for the difference in height from side to side, have you measured the car from a flat surface? Set it up level and measure it at different pickup points on the frame, this way you can eliminate if the body is square or not. If its good then you can move on to check other areas, suspension, floors?

Thanks!

The wheels are 10.5" wide with 295/18's on it. The car is minitubbed, so I have plenty of room to tuck them in more. The wheels are an aftermarket C6 Z06 wheel, so they spacing is based of of the Corvette. I have 1.5" wheel spacers on it now and was thinking of putting 1.25" on it?

I have measured the car on a flat surface and that is where I got the 3/4" higher on one side than the other. The front is only an 1/8" higher on the drivers side than the passenger side. I haven't gotten the car level and checked to see what you mentioned yet. Hopefully, I will be able to do that soon as I'd really love to get back going on the car. I sure missed a cool spring this year to work on it. I now have to deal with the hot summer temps with the high humidity of the mid-south.

car is looking good stance is nice

Thanks...I had to fudge on the rear and the front is a little lower than actual ride height with the coilovers installed. The rear I moved the lower shock bracket to the bottom two holes. I'm not sure if that will work out or not. I certainly hope so because I don't want it any higher.

An easy way to get it level in your garage is set your jack stands up and put a level across them then you can use sheet metal or wood to use a shims. Then you can mark where you put them. Then put the car up and check your measurements from there. Also make sure to use plum bobs so you can make sure it doesn't move while you are taking your measurements and if you need to move or adjust stuff.

Wouldn't putting a level in the open door jamb on top of the rocker suffice? That's how I did it when I installed the quarters and built my rotisserie anyway.

Seems it would be difficult dropping plumb lines from the car without already having reference points with measurements.

I think it looks killer with the stance and full wheelwells , if you think it will definitely rub then I would say move the rear in a smidge. That would seem easy to do at any point if using spacers as you described.
I don't have facts or experience regarding the four link but it would sure seem that you could adjust the rear end back on the side needed...but if all links are equal lengths why are they producing such a different position?
Initially I thought of a geometry math problem when you posed the question. I would be tempted to draw out representative scenarios or make a popsicle or similar stick model... maybe on an inch to mm scale? Or just to play with if it is easier to adjust than the 4 link which would seem to be a given. Is each link adjustable in length? If so you should be able to move the wheel in any direction, how much before binding something is the question.:headscratch:

I like it. It looks really nice.

A roller in the new driveway .... looking good sir :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Thanks guys:thumbsup:

It's been a while since I made any updates on the project or even had time to work on it. I did manage to get out this afternoon and get something done that I have been fretting about for a long time. I finally cutout the a/c vents in my non-a/c 67 Camaro. I'm going to be running a Vintage Air setup, but wanted to utilize the factory style dash vents. The non-a/c 67's did not come with the holes cut out for the dash vents, so I had to do it. I managed to get them cutout right the first try!

Now onto another dilemma I've created this past week. I've been in search of a set of gauges that I actually liked. I finally Friday ordered a set that I really do like. I hope they will have them done and in my hands within the next two weeks. I'll be using the factory gauge carrier to house the speedo and tach, but I'm not completely sure where to mount the, right now, 4 2 1/16" gauges. That includes the fuel, voltage, oil pressure and water temperature gauges. I didn't purchase the other gauge that I decided to run and that is a transmission temp gauge. In the picture, you can see I made a spot to mount 3 small gauges a while back for my custom console, but that's not going to house all 5 gauges. I could use some help brainstorming on how best to add 2 more gauges. I'm not opposed to mounting some of them in the dash, but want it to look almost factory.

Anyone have any ideas?

You can put the volt and trannny gauges in the console, its the ones you wont look as often and there seems to be a lot of space. Would help in keeping it clean and not overflooded with gauges....

Or get a race pak.

Lead.

Have you seen this thread on TC?

Just throwing that at the wall to see if it sticks. If you are doing a cage then they may not be in your favor. You could redo your console to house 2 guages or make it for three and use a blank in case the need arises later, like for boost or something.

You are not the only one that has not made it to quality time in the garage lately... lemmee tell ya.:drowninga: :bang:

Any more details on the new gauges? Looks pretty slick.
My current plan is a custom face on the DD VHX series. I talked with them at CarCraft St. Paul last month.

I have tried to think of every conceivable place to mount the gauges in my arrangement. I found a company, just dashes, that makes a dash panel with gauges mounted in them. However, they were asking $600 for the dash. I looked into the pilar pod setup as well, but just felt it may overpower the interior with gauges mounted up there. Same for doing them in the dash cover.

I think what I'm going to do is something like the Autometer console gauge pod for 68-9 Camaro's. However, I'll have to execute it in steel. I could use 2.5" exhaust tubing with some creative cutting. I think it would be relatively simple to fabricate, but time consuming. I have plenty of room on my console to install 5 gauges in that configuration. I could do 3 in the back and 2 in the front. Autometer one has 2 in the back and 2 in the front.

I think when it was done, it would look killer. What do ya think?:welder:

I'm holding out on showing the gauges just yet.:mock: When I get them in my hands, then I'll post up some pictures. I think they look awesome!

I really do like the DD VHX gauges. What I don't like about them is the color scheme they offer them in. I wasn't aware they would allow you to custom order different schemes. Although, when I had the set I had, they also seemed a bit small. Now, if they could do something like the Marquez design that fits in a stock 67-8 dash, I'd be all over them. All the 3-1 gauge packs just made the gauges too small for my liking.

Look up Carl Casanovas console if you are going that route. He has 3 rows of 2 shoehorned in there as I recall.

I am sure others may have as well but Carls car stands out in my mind plus he is always cool about sharing knowledge.:thumbsup:

I forgot he had that setup. Thanks for pointing that out.

Those would definitely save me a great deal of time if I could use those pods, but I wouldn't be able to use them on my particular console as its flat on top. The factory consoles have a slight curve to them. I chose not to incorporate that touch into mine because of the style of cupholder and shifter bezel I'm using. If I had proper tools to execute that, I would definitely do it. However, I'm working with basic tools, so gotta go at it the best way I can.

Constructing this car has taken me well beyond what I am really equipped to handle and originally set out to do. It is enjoyable when you get to stand back and look at the fruits of your hard work. Sure can be a true test of your patience at times though.

Here's a CAD drawing I had done for my gauge panel on my custom console. My laser jet guy is cutting it for me today, so hopefully I can have this little project completed by this Sunday.

My laser jet guy dropped off my gauge pod panel yesterday. I'm excited to get it built. I'm shooting for having it done by this evening, but it will probably take me till tomorrow evening to get it finished. That is if someone doesn't pull me away from all this fun:D

In progress...

Phase one of the gauge pod completed

Looks good ... hows the angle of the dangle while you're sitting in your seat?

:gitrdun:

Thanks Sonar

I'd say I got a good dangle:)

looks good, are you going to cover them with leather?

I don't know how that pic got posted like that. Let me try this again...

Thanks Frank

I'm thinking of wrapping it in a vinyl wrap. I ordered a sample the other day of black brushed metallic vinyl.

How does it look for bezel spacing with gauges mocked up in there?
Looks pretty impressive. I would consider having it hydro dipped. I don't know much about it but there were sport bike guys promoting it at CarCraft and for odd shaped parts it looked pretty slick. Like a decal that covered any and all contours with no bubbles or wrinkles.

Thanks Robert

The exhaust tubes are 2.5" in diameter and the gauges are 2.27" in diameter, so they will fit perfectly.

I'll have to look into the hydro dip. I wasn't even aware of it. I think that would work perfectly. Thanks for the tip

Finished up the fab work on the gauge panel today. Turned out pretty good I think.

very nice work on the console,looks great

Thanks Jeff!

It was fun to make till I had to make the 1/4" ring that was welded onto the face of the tubes to allow for gauge mounting.

Looks Good.

Thanks Wayne:cheers:

Thought yu was messin with me :mock:

Console looks good! And I will take you up on those measurements for the stock AC holes .... those look cooler.:yes: