I can only dream of burning my hand on a hot engine part.:shakehead:

Congratulations you have that problem.:thumbsup:

:cheers:

Ahhh the fun is just beginning. :walkingdog:

Congrats on a successful weekend! :cheers:

It looks and sounds awesome!!

Congrats on the progress...sweet lookin' and soundin' FErd. :thumbsup:

Well if I was nearby, I'd gladly drop by and help speed up the progress!

Hope you're rolling soon!

Yeah... I know... I know LOL

Thanks, and hoping to keep having more. Next is the tuning.

Thanks a lot!!

Thanks kindly ;)

Alas... I picked up a whole bunch of electrical supplies, ready to solve all my battery and grounding problems.

Yes checked the resistance on the alternator case, so I thought with an aluminum block, that I would run a dedicated ground to the alternator to the chassis. The resistance was a little higher.

While making up the cables, I noted that the heat shrink was damaged on the starter cable.
Hmmm, what would cause this?

I mega insulated the new #4 gauge alternator wire from possible abrasion.

Then I looked at the steering linkage and drag link.

Hmmm when I do a hard right turn... that linkage would come close to the Positive cables. :idea:

So, after rewiring everything, I did a hard right turn... and yes very close to the wires.

Clearly the wires were hanging down and contacting the drag link, on a hard right turn. Right near the inner tie rod end.

S..T I was shorting the battery with every hard right turn!:bang: :lostmarbles:

Yep I thought back, first time I melted the battery I was backing up doing a hard over. Each other time, I was backing into the garage, yes... doing a hard right turn.

So I adjusted all the cables, made them clear the steering easily in all configurations. Added lots of protection, a few zip ties and clamps.

Just the clocking of the new starter puts the cables down low near the drag link.

One problem solved. Next trying to tune the carb.

:)

This week, I completed the rewiring and relocation of the starter wires (soleniod and 12v) The soleniod wire and connector were a little fried.

Fixed the oil flter adaptor. The billet piece Brent gave me with teh engine is real nice, but the oil filter smashes against the sway bar.

On the previous incarnation of the engine I had the stock adaptor taken to a machine shop. He milled the adaptor on an angle, and then faced all the bolt faces on the same angle.

The filter is 1/2" clear of the sway bar, in the worst case scenario.

I spent a little time polishing all the Ford blue paint off of the adaptor, to match the aluminum engine, and popped it on.

Some more parts coming this weekend, including another power valve and air/fuel gauge

The drivers door has developed this really bad rattle in the window.
It doesn't help that the engine shakes the car so much

Little bit of rain this weekend.
Tires have brutal traction in the rain ;)

The test and tune continues.

I dropped in the 10.5 power valve, adjusted the timing. Better again, almost civilized. Civilized but deafening inside ;)
Seriously you need ear plugs to drive this thing.

Next on the agenda, is the failing power steering pump. Bearings are going, so it's making hideous noises, and the pulley is sliding in and out at least 1/2"
I have the air fuel gauge now, just have to make a revised console panel, to hold it, then hook it up.

Existing gauge layout;


The start button is going to be axed.

I'm thinking switches at the bottom (across) and the four gauges side by side in a quad layout at the top 2/3 of the panel.

Next I worked on installing the new emblems.


Some fitting work, but that's done.
Now I have to decide on orientation.

To the side (side facing)


or to the front.




The problem with the side, is that the emblems are a little hard to see, with the shock towers canted towards the inside. It might encourage people to lean in over the car a little too far?

Replaced the power steering pump tonight.

In keeping with the tradition of the car, it was a %$#@% battle, but it's in. Pulley alignment is great, no squealing and pump and steering feel good.

Why should anything be easy? ;)

I like them pointing to the sides. I wouldn't be concerned with people leaning over too far.

Keep truckin!

Yeah I did end up sideways with the emblems. I have one more for a revamp of my floor console.

Fixed a couple areas where the engine was making contact with the chassis. I'm happy with the result.

Planning exhaust changes along with a change to the rear suspension.

OKAY....

A little news. I think I have planned out my exhaust system modifications, in a preliminary way.

I am going to do a custom set of tubes off my headers, under the transmission brace, to a 3" xpipe.

I think with the power upgrade, I've got to go at least to a 3" from 2.5" on the muffler side.

The custom tubes under the brace are going to be a very oval(ed) set of pipes, because the car is so darn low ;)

I am taking a metal art course starting next week, at night school. So after brushing up on my welding skills, I think I can make the pipes look like a work of art LOL :)

After the x pipe, I am going to probably install some smaller 3" resonators, before the main mufflers, maybe like a low restriction round race muffler.


From there it is all a question mark. If I go to a full 3 link track rear suspension, I am definitely going to need to be custom over the axle. The good part of that, is I can then incorporate a second switchable resonator, in the space left over from removing the leaf springs.

The other good thing about going to 3 link, is I can fit even larger rear tires, quite easily (I think) Probably a 335/35/17 or thereabouts with good clearance.

More soon

On my car I have 3 inch stainless with x pipe with straight through 3 inch mufflers with the pipes running under the axle due to the 4 link rear , down beside the fuel tank and rear mufflers exiting out dual outlets all of the system was made up of mandrell bends and straight pipe ..

Wow, that looks really nice. Some great ideas there.

Actually I reviewed your thread and found the sound clips. What type of mufflers are you running?

Thanks

They are Custom built by a local exhaust shop perforated tube straight through with stainless wool packing . Gave it a bit today it is a weapon broke traction as soon as the outer throttle bodies opened .

Sounds respectfully evil to me ;) Nothin' wrong with that! :drive:


I just got all the titantium taken out of my ankle (clutch foot) this past Friday, so as it heals up, I am going to try and get some videos of the "deafening" exhaust, before I change it to something quieter.

Okay so in conjunction with the exhaust changes, and the fact that I finished my welding night school class,

I am looking at rear suspension, now.

With the upgraded front suspension, lighter front end, the front of the car, badly out corners the rear, despite the big rear tires.

So the plan is to go with the 3 link that Shaun designed to go with his front suspension.

It will be a little tricky getting the exhaust over the suspension and out the back. I think I should be able to make it work.

Some pics of what the set up looks like, and I can get Shaun to match the shocks and springs on the front.

http://www.streetortrack.com/files/i...st/3_link3.jpg

http://www.streetortrack.com/files/i...st/3_link2.jpg

http://www.streetortrack.com/files/i...st/3_link4.jpg

Wow I actually did some work on the car today. Trying to solve some electrical charging issues.

Modified the wiring coming off of the alternator tonight. With the battery in the trunk, there are some long routes for the charging system. I ran a third feed from the alternator to see if that helps.

I even took the time to hide the wiring ;)

Should be able to fire it up tomorrow, and see if it has helped or not.

Cheers, spring is around the corner :)

Good stuff bud hope to see it out soon

Thanks Ryan, I plan on making the fundraiser on the 26th :)

Gonna start hitting people up for donations at work :)

Finally finished fiddling around with the electrical mods tonight. I had a hard to access relay under the dash, which would not cooperate for 2 hours lol.

Finally got it dealt with. Fired it up at 10pm tonight, much to the dismay of the neighbourhood (and my wife) lol.
Looks like the improvements in wiring, have helped the charging system. At least a little anyways :)

BUT looks like I lost my key for the lug nut locks... so that will be fun getting those off.
Any tips?

Some cruise pics courtesy of Ryan. I have a few also, coming up soon!

http://s34.photobucket.com/user/Ryba...20Cause%202014

Long time no update. Been busy with a massive home renovation, but hopefully the reno is completed this spring.

In anticipation of the reno being completed, and having the time to play with and drive the car more, I decided to do, what I've always wanted to do and change the transmission.

Out is coming the TKO 5 speed and sometime in the mid to late spring, in will go the T56 magnum.

I want the tall overdrive for the long high speed highways, and I also want the close ratio. Plus I find the 5 speed good, but not smooth enough for the track.

On order pretty quickly will be the scattershield.

http://americanpowertrain.com/images/F63954675.jpg

Beautiful car you've got there Ripped. I went through your hole write up again and did not see it but who's headlights are those? Keith

Those are motorcycle headlights, I think CJ Pony Parts has something similar, but not tribar.

Glad you're enjoying the car and still making changes. Good luck!

Cool update Doug hopefully the swap goes as planned!

Thanks a lot guys!

My plan is to have this all ready for the spring.

I am going to have to re-fabricate the trans tunnel, and then completely redo the center console.

Plans for this year are to;
do the trans swap
console
custom quieter mufflers and resonators (Tired of going deaf driving the car lol)
and get the air conditioning back working.



That should go a long ways to making the car more fun to drive again.

:)

Along with making plans for my custom low clearance exhaust system, the scatter shield arrived on the weekend.



Instead of doing stainless steel on the first section of the exhaust I may end up doing regular steel tubing and then ceramic coating it.

A few goals; To reduce heat and noise, to make it easier to fabricate, to keep it looking cleaner (my stainless is extremely discouloured from heat right now) and to make the parts cost cheaper.

I've been hunting around for an exhaust system that will work for the super low chassis I have.
I need 3" pipes to start, with the larger cubic inch engine.

No luck finding anything off the shelf, that will work, so I decided to make one.

The critical area is the X pipe. It hits a lot on speed bumps etc, so the extra clearance is needed. I am going to make up my own custom oval pipe.

Not too sure how I am going to radius the corners yet.
I don't have a TIG either, so I will possibly have someone else TIG it for me, or get my own TIG

This is the start of the mock up. After that is complete I am going to get some more stainless, and bend away :)

Looks like this will gain me a bunch of ground clearance.

Contact these guys. They may save you some time building the oval tubings.

http://www.spintechmufflers.com/tubi...ng/cat_41.html

Good luck making that exhaust system. I'm going to start making my own soon as well.

Thanks I looked at theirs also. they had a slightly different shape than what I needed for my clearance.


Thanks

After an almost endless home renovation, it's time to get back to work on the car.

The alarm system died. I operated the power door and trunk locks, along with the alarm system.
I opted to keep the wiring as simple as possible and upgraded the old compustar system to a new one.
I added the drone GPS locator as well.

In order to make the power door locks work, I needed to construct a relay system (the older compustar had the relays built in)

I used the opportunity to polish the rear folding seat assembly.

An annoying vibration was present in the clutch/flywheel. I decided to get off my butt and find out what was going on.

I made up some cribbing to get the car nice and high, and pulled the trans.

1st the pilot bushing fell out. So that was not good but common with the FE's

So fixed that, and put the dial indicator on the bellhousing. It was perfect, after spinning it several times.

Then decided to send the flywheel and pressure plate out for machining and balancing. More on this later ;)

So it turns out;
The flywheel was good

The pressure plate was badly out of balance.

It's a good thing that I didn't drive the car much.

So I worked all last night, and put everything back together, dropped the car on the ground.

Wow what a difference. It's like driving a different car. Fresh syncromax fluid in the trans, and I am impressed.

The only thing that has me bothered, is that the starter is making a funny noise now, like it is hitting a small piece of sheet metal or something, or is misaligned.

Not sure what would have happened, same starter same location...

Guess I'll be taking that puppy out again ;)

Man, thanks for posting this! I have a small vibration in my car and somewhat certain that it's coming from the clutch/flywheel area. I also have a McLeod clutch, RST twin disk and now you have me guessing I should have done a balancing check before all was put together. Did you send all you parts to a racing shop to be checked?
Thanks,

Yes a racing machine shop. I think based on what I've experienced, I'd say yes get it balanced, if you can.

Obviously this one (pressure plate) was bad, but driving around, the engine is smoother, revs quicker, even sounds different.

And thinking about all the trouble engine builders go to when they balance a performance engine, why wouldn't we?

Especially since it it really more or less an assembled series of metal components. There are a lot of variables.

We balance the engines, we balance drive shafts, flywheels, wheels etc... so why not a pressure plate. No matter what anyone suggests, I am always going to go with my gut and balance every one from this point forward.

My starter is still acting up, so I am going to try and figure out what is going on with that, maybe tomorrow. It's a tight fit in there so not an easy job.

I got the starter working properly again.

When I checked one bolt seemed fairly loose and another slightly loose.

I just backed up all three bolts, juggled the starter and then snugged everything back up.

All back to normal.

Now it's on to the air conditioning system and a revamp of the exhaust.

Glad you're back to making progress with the car. Good luck!

Thanks :)

Well I ordered the new mufflers that I want to use. Similar to what I have now, except the patriot varaflow mufflers are much too small for the stroker FE.

Too loud in the car, actually deafening at times (I must be getting old lol)

I just have to see if I can find someone that makes a 3" tailpipe set that I can order separately (not a whole kit.)

These will be a 3" in 3" out, with some very custom oval pipes around the trans and x-pipe to work with the low to the ground chassis

http://snailperformanceracing.com/me...41-front_2.png

Started working on replacing the old 2 1/2" exhaust and too small mufflers, with the 3" exhaust system.

I have demoed the old exhaust, and am mocking up the new mufflers.

I have bought a flex coupling to put inline in the system somewhere, to reduce transmitted vibration. I have to put it up in an area that gives me enough ground clearance.

I'm looking forward to having it done, already and I am just started ;)