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Looking forward to seeing updates.
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Excellent build. Wild ride and story, but glad it's behind you. Can't wait to see more progress on the car. I'm currently building my 69 Falcon (may start a build thread) and am anxious to hear your thoughts on the offset three link.
EDIT: I never and do not intend to run a decoupled three link. Just offset. My curiosity comes from recent protest from a friend when I mentioned the offset 3 link, in which he referenced the Mustang 3 link and PHB, where the 3rd link is centered, saying "Ford did that for a reason". Ford also made offset 3 links for a while...my Granada 9" housing has offset 3 link brackets on it, for instance. I also know Mike Mayer believes in them. Just curious if folks around here have come to any different conclusions there yet. |
I built mine offset and ran a dirt mod with the offset also. Full-size fords from the 60s to the 80s also ran offset top links. I'm a fan!
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Is there a finish thread on this build? I followed this years ago on a different forum then just found this one today! that goes up until 2020. Would love to see the final product and details.
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Yeah this was always one of my favorite builds ! Love to get an update.
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I've had a few cars get in front of it, but still working on it. I'll put together some progress pics and get the thread up to date...soon-ish!
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So a few people have ask, so I guess I'll dig through some pics and see if I can get this thread a little more up to date.
Last update was the headers. They are finish welded, and happy to say removable with the engine in place. They do allow access to plugs and flange bolts. To complete those, I added EGT and O2 bungs to each primary: https://i.imgur.com/foDbnObl.jpg If you're wondering why have both EGT and O2? The O2's will be used during initial tuning to trim cylinder-to-cylinder fuel balance. They won't live very long pre turbo due to the heat. Once the cylinder trim is complete and all individual cylinders are at lambda, the O2's are removed and capped. The EGT temp will then become the baseline threshold for each cylinder at lambda. All O2 sensors are pressure compensated, meaning they are designed to provide accurate data at roughly atmospheric, give or take a few psi. As back pressure in the header increases (with a turbo), the pressure will skew the O2 data and that has to be compensated for. There are a couple of ways to do this, start with an ECM capable of pressure data conversion, a stand alone O2 controller that does the conversion internally and busses the massage to your ECM, or the ability to write your own maths table in the ECU and have the O2 data. Having the pressure offset data for each make and model O2 is critical, so you have to see which O2 each method supports. The ECM I am using does this internally, so all I have to do is provide back pressure data. I just need to feed 800 degree gas to a pressure sensor! I used a stainless NPT bung and attached a 3' stainless tube to allow the gas to cool off enough that the sensor wouldn't melt. https://i.imgur.com/1xsVxShl.jpg Because this pressure tap is in the collector, pre turbo, it sees the individual cylinder pulses, and without some way to smooth these out, the pressure data will look very spiky. At the end of each tube is a pressure spike diffusing can with the pressure sensor on the other end. Basically where the pressure can equalize before being read as data and sent. And as a bonus, a little more heat dissipation. These little guys have stainless mesh inside. https://i.imgur.com/Y1KeJSyl.jpg Alright, enough of all that! With the headers built, I wanted a way to support the turbos, keeping the weight of them off the headers. I hung the turbos off a wire to find the balance point. It just happened to be where the exhaust turbine attaches to the center section. I removed two retainers and made a pattern for a stainless bracket: https://i.imgur.com/4AwgVuvl.jpg I then attached a support bar from the chassis with a high temp rod end for the turbo to "hang" from: https://i.imgur.com/QC2WIIql.jpg With the turbo's in position, headers where they were, time to connect them all together. The collectors I'm using are double slips, so i decided to use double slips anywhere I needed to exhaust to be able to expand without cracking. This pipe connects the header to the turbo, with the waste gate outlet. I added gussets to the waste gate flange and V-band flanges on the end to prevent cracking as long as possible: https://i.imgur.com/9fwdCL8l.jpg On to the down pipes and waste gates. I'm running electric waste gates controlled by my ECM. I HATE the sound of straight pipe waste gates, so wanted to incorporate them back into the down pipes so they went through the muffler. You can see a double slip on the waste gate discharge and down pipe: https://i.imgur.com/9xdf9wWl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/NpbEFBMl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/mWhANkll.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ZEPZUTal.jpg https://i.imgur.com/AaLg3Whl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/vQUvM6Al.jpg https://i.imgur.com/OEwE9iol.jpg Tough getting in tight spaces! https://i.imgur.com/mOLJWcLl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/SpyXQytl.jpg Washers for O2 bungs: https://i.imgur.com/m4lHMHJl.jpg |
Crazy how long it takes make a post with pics. Let me finish up some things in the shop and then I'll post up the rest of the exhaust, move into the inside and then cover the engine/cooling/intercooler setup in the next post later today.
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Finishing up the exhaust.
The exhaust pipes run down the rockers and exit in front of the rear wheels. They will be enclosed in a rocker box. I needed a mount that had some flexibility that could be attached from the side of the pipe. Over the years of working on cars, I always try to catalog useful parts that I might need to use someday. For the mounts, I went with the Viper setup. I needed to make a nut plate for the body side that the mount could bolt to: https://i.imgur.com/GNzEBkMl.jpg This is the Viper mount bolted to the body nut plate I made: https://i.imgur.com/5sQaoMRl.jpg Then needed to make a standoff mount from the exhaust pipe that had the mount pins. Made the mount wide to increase the surface area and hopefully prevent cracks. I guess we'll see: https://i.imgur.com/0xi3605l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/knK1VzDl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/A72tB3Il.jpg https://i.imgur.com/iHS5pPkl.jpg Then welded the mounts to the pipe. https://i.imgur.com/14FGgUBl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/5DBDEh2l.jpg Then attached the forward pipe section in the mounts to check fit. When you tighten these mounts, the silicone rubber compresses and grips the pins from the exhaust. https://i.imgur.com/M4kR2P3l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ytFMBBbl.jpg Was happy with the front, so time to add the mufflers. Maybe muffler should be in air quotes. I'm using a pair 4" Pro-Fabrication mufflers (Same ones Burns Stainless sells). They are packable, so wanted them removable for service. I welded on a V-band to the pipe and muffler: https://i.imgur.com/jc7Xoxkl.jpg Now to make basically the same mount from the front, for the rear: https://i.imgur.com/7MDqvdml.jpg https://i.imgur.com/qjvwsVSl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/zC1ESpkl.jpg The side pipes are enclosed in a rocker box, so mocked up a few small pieces of aluminum to see what it would look like. The finished rocker boxes with be the full length with just the exhaust tip exposed: https://i.imgur.com/hjbx8BS.jpg |
Impressive work Craig!! :thumbsup:
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For the engine, I wanted to use a motor plate to mount it. This was going to be tricky because I'm running a 5 stage dry sump with A/C. I'm also running a Viper 180 amp alternator (PWM regulated from my ECM), KRC power steering pump, and a Mezierre billet mechanical pump (universal).
I'm running a Jesel belt drive, and really don't like that 3/4 of the belt is exposed, just hanging out there waiting for something to get in-between the belt and drive, at least that's my fear. I wanted to enclose the timing belt, and had the idea of having a motor plate thick enough to accomplish this. My idea was to have a cover plate that would also mount the water pump. I picked the billet universal Meziere pump because the back is removal, has exceptional GPM flow at idle and full speed, and great pressure. What if the back of the pump could also be the time belt cover? This was my line of thinking. Then this plate could also hold the cam sensor. Time to figure out if any of this would even work. I started laying out accessories in different configurations until I found one that looked promising. I had to make sure that everything that connects to the different accessories would also clear everything else. I built a quick wood buck I could mount to the engine and hang the accessories from. When it looked good, I measured it out and made a .DXF CAD file, that I then printed. I recut a wood buck to the new printed version and laid it out again. So far, so good. Now I needed help. I called Aaron Oberle and ask him if he was interested in the project. He was. This was either right before or right after he got his Haas Mini Mill, can't remember. I sent him the .DXF I made, and I want to thank Jesel and Meziere for providing .DXF files of the Jesel timing cover and Meziere water pump back. This saved a TON of time. Aaron did his SolidWorks magic, making my Fusion360 magic look like a toddler, and got started. In the meantime, I bought a cheap granite surface block and height mic to start the process of measuring all the accessories. All mounting locations reference off pulley height, overall dimensions, etc. Once everything was modeled, it was time to see if it would actually fit. I had the motor plate CNC routered from MDF and Aaron 3D printed the accessory brackets: https://i.imgur.com/F6Ro8Fy.jpg https://i.imgur.com/tTEnbnN.jpg I was able to mount all the accessories to the plate and check fitment. Couple of small tweaks and I was good to go, or so I thought. Aaron's machine wasn't big enough to do the motor plate, so I shopped it around to about everyone with no takers. I mean flat out, "Nope, not something we're interested in doing". Okay wow. So Aaron said he would do everything and sub out the big motor plate. And here is what he made: https://i.imgur.com/z2n2xmF.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3G4LBx1.jpg So how this goes together. The Jesel timing plate bolts to the engine. You'll see the funny looking bolts in the top. I had Aaron make those so the plate dowels onto to cover. This not only keeps the plate in alignment, but also lets the timing cover stay bolted and sealed to the engine when the motor plate is removed. The biggest reason is that the cam sensor is attached to this setup, I wanted to be able to service the plate and keep the position the same. https://i.imgur.com/1oNrzh6.jpg Then the motor plate bolts through the Jesel timing cover (which is doweled to the block). Had Aaron use O-rings to seal all the parts together. Note the machined in bracket for the crank trigger: https://i.imgur.com/oSby1sc.jpg This shows the tensioner that Aaron made. I couldn't find one that would work in the space available, so had to be made. https://i.imgur.com/Cj8cE76.jpg And now the timing cover (also doweled to the plate) that started this whole thing. You can see how it incorporates the cam sensor. This is the backside that bolts to the motor plate: https://i.imgur.com/SuQQnOr.jpg And the Meziere pump bolted to it's new back/timing cover. Billet timing pointer at the correct depth to actually be on top of the balancer marks! https://i.imgur.com/EGl8bKU.jpg From an idea, to a CAD model to finished product. Lots of back and forth trying to get the maximum belt wrap on the accessories. This required 3 idler pulleys and the tensioner pulley. All idler pulleys are Gen 3 Hemi. Never see an issue with them and readily available. I mounted all the accessories to the plate and then used the height mic off the motor plate surface to check the pulley heights. They were all within .005". So calling that a win! https://i.imgur.com/zLbHOS2.jpg Couple of things to note in the pic above. I run water from the pump into the front of the block, as well as between the middle cylinders on the side of the block. The line that runs down from the water pump backing plate feeds those. The plate has ORB fittings so I can pass through. https://i.imgur.com/brAQvxH.jpg The little belt routing pic will be laser etched on the bracket. Speaking of belt, this brings up the pulley situation. Believe it or not, the A/C compressor kinda dictated pulley sizes for everything. I can't change it's diameter, so I had to size the crank pulley to drive it at the correct speed. Once I had the crank pulley size, then I could size everyone else with removable pulleys. Meziere gave me the cavitation speed of the water pump, so had to have Jones custom make that one because they only offered that depth/size in a V-belt. Jones also made my crank arbor and crank pulley. The KRC pulley size keeps the P/S pump out of cavitation, and finally the alternator pulley was changed to match the same ratio as the Viper. Lots of amps at idle! |
Excellent work, Craig!
Thanks for sharing here, make forums great agin, LOL :flag2::cheers: |
Let's cool this thing. I will have a pretty big heat load due to the water to oil cooler, water cooled turbo's, and water cooled waste gates, so a big radiator is in order. Time to see how big of a radiator will fit. I started mocking up with just cardboard:
https://i.imgur.com/nRmplXPl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ckWwJlSl.jpg To get the size I wanted, clear the stock grille, and allow for another intercooler radiator in it's own air stream, I needed to lay the radiator down. I had to cut the frame tails back to squeeze out as much space as possible. I built a removable bar that connects the frame tails to make servicing easier. The rectangular aluminum box is the C&R water to oil cooler: https://i.imgur.com/UEWPLwAl.jpg When I found the shape I liked, I built a mockup radiator with the correct dimensions from some scrap square tube aluminum. I also built the mock fans to dimension so I could see if anything interfered: https://i.imgur.com/3US8zgql.jpg The plan is to duct and feed the radiator/condenser from the lower valance opening, and the intercooler radiator ducted from the grill opening. Both will converge on exit and pass through a duct out of the hood: https://i.imgur.com/in3WFTjl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/G3aAaonl.jpg I had the car rendered (more on that in another post) and here is the hood setup. https://i.imgur.com/9HodvMYl.jpg Now that I had a size, I contacted C&R and had them run a heat load calc and verified I was good. They worked up a radiator and sent it to me for approval: https://i.imgur.com/GdZsFZpl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/iAt3RM9l.jpg I had them add a flange to the inlet side to make attaching and sealing the duct easier. And this is the final product: https://i.imgur.com/y1javKcl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/8W78S32l.jpg Couple things to note, I spec'd this with 3 12" brushless fans. My ECU can control the PWM (speed) for each fan independently. I also have a bleed port at the very top to plumb back to the surge tank. The -12 fitting is the oil cooler return. Time to make it fit. I want the cooling stack removable as a module, I still need to figure out a bumper bar (bumpers are carbon, so need something behind them), and a place for a tow hook. Let's see if I can make something that can do all that. The radiator sits below the front frame rails, so I needed a mount dropped down that was strong enough to also be a tow point. This bar also attaches to the drop down sway bar tube, adding structure to both: https://i.imgur.com/Y3A4SoYl.jpg I had them put 3 grommet bungs on the top and bottom and two on each side. This would allow me to mount the radiator with isolators. So made 3 for the bottom: https://i.imgur.com/nyhHFk2l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/2YdVM4Xl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EUG41gAl.jpg These get a grommet and weld to the new lower radiator bar: https://i.imgur.com/NpdOdtRl.jpg With the tabs in place, I removed the lower bar, epoxied it, and set it up to weld in place: https://i.imgur.com/pxMnkzsl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/93GzI1vl.jpg Now that the lower is attached to the frame, I slid the radiator in the bungs and propped it into place. Now I can build the sides and front of the mount. This part can unbolt to allow removal of the radiator and entire cooling stack: https://i.imgur.com/siCemBAl.jpg The side pieces that bolt to the radiator bar and frame: https://i.imgur.com/UoNXjjTl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/wPztPJrl.jpg This mount also becomes the bumper bar: https://i.imgur.com/nSHp75Bl.jpg Welded it up, put it in epoxy, and bolted it in place to check fitment. This first pic you can see I finished off the frame tail angles where the crossbar mounts. Second pic I haven't done that yet: https://i.imgur.com/G9dAgqFl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/wacgZT7l.jpg Took it back off and added the radiator: https://i.imgur.com/A2ntc5Il.jpg https://i.imgur.com/2cKd7Tbl.jpg With the radiator in, I put the fenders and header back on to see how the intercooler radiator was going to fit. Once I was happy with it, I started building the mount: https://i.imgur.com/SrwahNBl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EYYQjS9l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/oujrJ5Hl.jpg |
Yep, this is my new desktop
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Amazing work there. That motor plate is a work of art all on its own. Thanks for the posts!
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Mad Skilz!
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Really glad to see this one still making progress. Freaking amazing build. Thanks for sharing and taking the time to make the detailed posts.
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Thanks for taking the time to document the efforts. |
I'm looking through pics and trying post this is some kind of order. I guess I'll start from the front.
I added a few braces to the down bars in the engine compartment. I built brackets to install a removable spreader bar just above the motor plate. I keyed it so it couldn't rotate, as I needed a place to mount the fuel pressure regulator: https://i.imgur.com/BbreiAtl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/QBBbPmdl.jpg I also made a removable brace on each side from the frame rail to coil over mount. I need it removable to pull the headers out: https://i.imgur.com/6oAB12Cl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EiLSyGhl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HucsYWyl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/MpYPxy4l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/QGGJUDxl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/dXz1NCCl.jpg To attach the motor plate, I needed a bracket from the frame rail on the passenger side, and from the down bar on the drivers. I wanted to make a bracket the plate could rest on. Made this for the passenger side: https://i.imgur.com/F1j84y7l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/bP3s19cl.jpg The driver side was a little trickier because the bar curves back: https://i.imgur.com/fbFUOoAl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/WW8zEjCl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/sqtbsBcl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HWVRtO9l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/WwaDMaQl.jpg A front motor plate requires a mid plate. Normally these are 1/4" aluminum or 1/8" steel. The Quicktime block saver plate that comes with the bell is 1/8" steel, so just added "ears" to that: https://i.imgur.com/AvZkR1yl.jpg With a front and mid plate, the trans mount needs to be rubber. If not, it will crack the case. I already had the drivetrain locked down at the angle I wanted, so grabbed a Viper mount and made a trans mount. I am a huge fan of poster board templates and use them on almost everything I make: https://i.imgur.com/E9JXvU9l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HKYO4Z6l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/jhIfB4zl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/7wWvJjRl.jpg My plan was always to run a water to air intercooler. With the turbos at the back of the engine and real estate up front for an air to air unavailable, seemed like the best option. To keep the plumbing short, and not intrude too much into the passenger compartment, I wanted the intercooler in the cowl. First things first, need to connect my intake elbow to the Hellcat 92mm DBW throttle body. I need to push it back slightly to clear the dual fuel rails/lines. I found a company that made a billet adaptor to use the Hellcat TB on different engines. I ask them could they just make it without machining the adaptor holes. They did, and also made me the adaptor on the elbow. So all I needed to do was connect the two with an aluminum tube section: https://i.imgur.com/zzjpbfyl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/d1Vo1P5l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/R8R1olWl.jpg Added a Wiggins clamp to the throttle body to attach to the intercooler: https://i.imgur.com/vwGvYqOl.jpg I sized the intercooler cores I needed and then made a cardboard mockup to see how it would fit. I'm using two 1000 HP cores. More cooling is always better: https://i.imgur.com/VatwIKZl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ul3OCusl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/agAOjsml.jpg https://i.imgur.com/2esN3zQl.jpg Once I found a good place for it where the connections wouldn't interfere with the surroundings, and I could remove it pretty easily, it was time to have it made. I've designed this to be removable from inside the car so you don't have to pull the engine! The plate I have on the outlet is a bulkhead plate that will bolt to the firewall. It's there to seal the intercooler inside from the engine compartment: https://i.imgur.com/v60n9I7l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/iX7JM1ql.jpg https://i.imgur.com/8mok3lCl.jpg The intercooler is attached at the bottom to the tunnel and the top at the cowl: https://i.imgur.com/zOzSP4Zl.jpg Once I had it's location nailed down, I could start making the inlet plumbing. I'm using a Wiggins at the core and at the turbo discharge: https://i.imgur.com/mHXdfiUl.jpg As I said earlier, the intercooler is separated from the engine compartment. The turbo discharge plumbing needs to come through the firewall to connect to the intercooler. I found these stainless/silicone pipe grommets that are water tight and rated at 500 degrees. This will let the pipes pass through and allow some movement: https://i.imgur.com/AGB0spMl.jpg |
On to the trans tunnel.
Most of you know Mopars are torsion bar cars. They have a torsion bar crossmember that runs from rocker to rocker. It's about an 1/8" thick and provides a lot of the bodies torsional rigidity. My car utilizes the stock floor, and is basically stock bodied except for subframe connectors and a grafted on front/rear subframe (It would have been SOOO much easier to build a tube frame chassis and just set the body on!). To install a T56 size transmission requires cutting a section of this crossmember out in the middle. I wanted to tie the crossmember back together with the same strength, and needed to be able to slide the largest diameter of the trans through it. I ended up building this piece after trying lots of different cardboard template: https://i.imgur.com/fzazLpjl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ixrUQnBl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/9Z9HRgfl.jpg I then realized I had a problem. I build the rear of the tunnel much earlier so I could build and install the seat structure. I kept it low because I wanted a console. When I ran the seat bar over the driveshaft, I stayed at the same height as the tunnel: https://i.imgur.com/AP2B61Yl.jpg This would have been fine, except that with the motor/mid plate, I cannot tilt the engine down to remove the trans. The transmission needs to slide straight back far enough to get the input shaft out of the clutch. After measuring how far I needed to go back, I raised the seat bar enough to allow the trans to slide through it that distance (with the shifter removed). I then had to cut back into the previous tunnel that amount and a make a removable section that could also seal off fire/smoke. The lower bolts on this panel would be inaccessible with the seats in place, so they bolt in from the underside. https://i.imgur.com/a6QqiGjl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/i8lNw6Nl.jpg With that panel done, I laid out how I wanted the tunnel. I built the pieces that attached to the floor that also attach the removal cover for the shifter. I flanged everything as a fire stop and will seal everything with fire tape: https://i.imgur.com/YvM2PTUl.jpg Then I started on the removable shifter section: https://i.imgur.com/AYA4Esml.jpg https://i.imgur.com/jD0YrNal.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Z6nBGLdl.jpg I added some baffles underneath to attach and seal the Nomex shift boot. https://i.imgur.com/5t6ryuol.jpg https://i.imgur.com/hMVYygol.jpg I made the front of the tunnel section that will connect to the firewall, but needed one more access panel to service the shift rod, reverse cable, and gear position sensor: https://i.imgur.com/lWELsKEl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/xwshCFSl.jpg Not sure what the metal composition of the factory sheet metal is, but TIG welding was a no-go. Mig it is. https://i.imgur.com/HWUBPegl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/2msdrDzl.jpg So this is a weird step down tunnel! My console is flush with the last step, so it transitions into the shifter panel level. The side cutout's on the shifter panel become the E-brake lever and sway bar adjuster pockets. The drop down from the front section will probably get cup holders. This whole thing will be covered in removable upholstery. And just because you made it this far, here's a couple of renderings of the outside. Not exact, but close enough to build panels and work from, which is what I'm doing now: https://i.imgur.com/Fj8Q9rp.jpg https://i.imgur.com/u6jXULa.jpg https://i.imgur.com/PYP21Jg.jpg https://i.imgur.com/8B49SwA.jpg https://i.imgur.com/9K0JtfI.jpg |
That car is sooo cool!!
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Agreed! So cool & love the logic/needs driven fab work. That rendering is freakin' sharp.
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Well, you are making me want to build another crazy car after watching this build.
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Just wow. Holy wow!
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That rendering is great motivation. So hot, too.
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I'm getting pretty bad about keeping this thread updated, and even worse on taking pics. Had one of those pic memories pop up and realized I haven't posted on this in awhile. So, some stuff that's been done (some for quite awhile!):
Some of you have seen the suspension pickup failures on the Ron clip, and now it's time to address those: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds I added gussets to the forward, lower control arm pickup point. It now connects to the frame rail and has gussets in the rear and front, in the direction of load. I sent the exhaust pieces out to be inconel wrapped. While I really liked the clean look of Headershield's process, it is non removable. The big race car teams went this direction to save weight. I am more concerned with being able to remove the shells so I can inspect or repair the pipes than I am about weight. Turbo stuff moves and cracks, not if, but when: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds I left the turn outs long so I could trim them once I build the rocker box that encloses the side pipes. I had been careful all along to just modify the firewall. Because everything was built with the firewall intact, I felt making a new one at this point wouldn't run afoul of any rules if I compete with the car: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds Once the firewall was in place, I could start working on the wipers. With an intercooler in the middle of the dash, a wiper transmission wasn't going to work. My ECU can communicate on the Bosch LIN bus, so I got two Bosch wiper motors. These will be at the outside corners of the windshield and both sweep toward the middle. Once I got the position where I wanted, I had to build a box that was sealed from the inside. My dash bar runs right where this needs to be. I had to build a box larger than the opening, through the opening! I didn't take any pics of the right side while building the box or wiper motor mount, but here are a few close to being finished roughed in and then epoxy: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds This one shows the high temperature silicone pipe grommets for the turbo discharge https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds With the cover off https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds Cover on and turbo reconnected https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds Here is a front shot showing the right side completed and the left still to do: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds |
Couple things in that last pic, the cap on top of the cowl is where you add coolant to the intercooler system. The other is the hoses you see are just mock up to get the lengths needed.
This cap is connected to a tube that is at the highest point of the intercooler (and the entire intercooler system). It is a fill and bleed point. I have a bleed on the intercooler radiator as well. https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds And this is the back side of the firewall where the intercooler mounts that shows where the discharge pipes go. The entire intercooler assembly doesn't take up much more room than the stock cowl tub did: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds I took some pics of the left side wiper build and this shows building a box bigger than its opening. I couldn't just bend up a box, I had to build it in pieces and assemble inside the hole: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds After assembled inside, I could then weld it: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds I need a flange inside the box that the lid can bolt to and help keep water out: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds Didn't take any finished pics of this one, but its the same as the other side. |
If you remember the rendering, I am popping out the fenders at the doors. This leaves the area in front of the door exposed to heat, water, wind noise and all kinds of things I don't want. I need to build a close out that mimics the fender profile and door gap. These kinda kicked my butt:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds Didn't get any easier on the other side: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds This one shows both wiper motors and covers installed. The hood covers the wipers and intercooler fill https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds Now I can start building the buck for the fenders... https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds Made a bracket to mount the ABS. Got it tucked up behind the subframe: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds And with that I'm going to call it. Tired of doing this on the computer! |
VERY nice fab skills. :thumbsup:
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Thanks for taking the time to show us this great build.:thumbsup:
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Incredible work. Designing the necessary items to work within the packaging constraints is cool to see & showing what you can regarding how you approach the 'build' portion of each is appreciated.
Very glad to see you're still chipping away @ this. I'll continue watching for future updates as well! |
I'm glad to see you're still working on this beast. Thanks for updating us on the progress!
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Craig, Holy **** !!
Incredible work and I can't imagine the amount of time you have in the filler panels. I can't wait to see this car in person as it is going to be incredible. |
This thread sucks… I’ve spent my entire Friday night reading through it from the beginning. lol
Wow !!! Amazing work !!! Jason |
Thanks for the update. So many "got carried away" projects on this site and the internet but this is probably the most over the top build I've ever seen and I've seen a lot. Glad its still in progress there was a point where I wondered if it had been abandoned.
and holy cow those Inconel wrapped exhaust items - probably cheaper to wrap them in $100 bills albeit quite a bit less effective ! |
I've been working on the front end buck for a while now. The rendering was super helpful in helping me layout what I want. With that said, the virtual world and reality sometimes just don't play nice.
The exhaust wasn't built when the render was done, and even if it was, not sure it would have made that much difference. The render also doesn't have the rocker box that encloses the exhaust. I need those parts "kinda" mocked up to see how they intersect with the fender. The lower louvers won't work as drawn, so I've been playing with different iterations to see what I like. I make something, then leave it a few days to take different looks and let my brain stew on it a bit. I'm more of a shape it, feel it, stand back and look at it kinda guy anyway. So needed a break from that and wanted to complete a project on the car that could give me some instant satisfaction (well, not instant, but a few days completion). I've ditched the Sutton disaster decoupled 3-link and went with a conventional 3-link. General consensus is to set the upper link 6-8 degrees down and forget it. I'd like a little more fine tune adjustment on it. Multiple hole brackets make pretty big jumps from one hole to the next, something like 3/4-1" depending on who's bracket you choose. I wanted a finer adjustment. I looked at what the drag racers do with the 4 link brackets, and discovered 1/8" adjustments are possible. I called a few of the places that make them, and found one willing to cut me out some blanks for a single attachment and also additional blanks so I could get the width for high misalignment spacers on the rod end. They did a model, looked good, and I got these pieces to weld up: https://hosting.photobucket.com/085b...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/085b...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/085b...720&fit=bounds Welded them out and ready to attach. https://hosting.photobucket.com/085b...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/085b...720&fit=bounds The older I get, the uglier my welds are. Didn't feel like pulsing over the top to make them all pretty! |
I am also installing adjustable sway bars, but first let me preface this.
I've had race cars, and swore that my next would be a street car. Combine that with the fact that when I'm at the track, I don't want to work on my car. I also don't want to drive a race car suspension to the track. Adjustable sway bars can solve that. More specifically, dual bar adjustments will solve that. I looked all over the internet for a splined sway bar end with an adjustable blade. Saw CAD models, but not anything real and able to be bought. Tarett and Rennline make beautiful billet aluminum pieces for the Porsche platform, but nothing I could adapt. Believe me I tried! With no other option, I bought the barrels that are supposed to be welded directly to the sway bar, as well as the blades (spec'd to my car) and started cutting stuff up. I cut off the spline end after making the barrel at the angle I needed: https://hosting.photobucket.com/085b...720&fit=bounds I then used 1/4" steel to build the front, back, and sides. I put a big bevel on the arm side that took a root and 2 cover passes. I beveled the barrel side and welded all front and back: https://hosting.photobucket.com/085b...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/085b...720&fit=bounds Once everything was welded up (took forever so as not to distort the barrel), I started grinding and filing. Here's a few pics almost done, had to weld up a few pockets that bugged me. The radius is all weld! https://hosting.photobucket.com/085b...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/085b...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/085b...720&fit=bounds Installed them to double check tire clearance and verify I got the angle right: https://hosting.photobucket.com/085b...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/085b...720&fit=bounds https://hosting.photobucket.com/085b...720&fit=bounds I have lever/cable actuators to adjust each blade individually. https://hosting.photobucket.com/085b...720&fit=bounds I can also connect the bell cranks on the blades to feedback linear actuators. I can move them with an H bridge driver. I could then run trim pots on the wheel and adjust the sway bar and receive position on my dash. Probably won't go that way, but is an option. |
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