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The headers & exhaust system are all double coated (inside & outside) by Jet-Hot with their 2000° thermal barrier. It's the only way we can do this. |
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I have my design so refined, it only takes small changes ... like 1/16" or 1/8" changes at a pivot point, or ball joint studs .100" taller or shorter ... to achieve any setup I want. This allows me to optimize a front clip for Aaron Oberle that wants a ride height of 5.5" at the firewall ... and another client that wants a 4" ride height. This also allows those clients to "change their mind" about their car. Aaron could decide he wants to drop the car 1" all around. If he called & told me, I'd tell him what the ride height change did to the geometry. And if he wanted to optimize the car for that height ... which slugs to change. Another thing is the car owner's priority. I set up Aaron Oberle's AXT front clip to be optimum for larger autocross courses, like SCCA, CAM, Optima, etc. If Aaron decided he wanted to change & run only GoodGuys AX (tiny courses) ... or change and only run the car on road course track days, with small slug changes we could optimize his car to be the best at whatever he chooses to do. So it's not that the car owner will never change it. They may, or may not. It simply allows them to optimize their geometry for whatever ride height or types of track they favor. Byron, as you have one of my Speedtech Extreme front clips ... and that clip is NOT slugged ... so you know there is only one optimum ride height. The front LCA bolts need to be 8-7/16" from the ground. That is where that geometry ROCKS. The priority is AX, but it works well at road courses too. You can raise or lower your car, but the geometry would be less than optimum. |
As always, thanx for the more detailed explanation. It makes total sense.
Getting my car to 'exactly' the 8 7/16" LCA bolt height is, well, challenging. Move one corner, all the others move. I'm within 1/8" at the moment, and will tune it the rest of the way once all of the weight is on the front of the car... |
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Set ride height & rake first ... then scale. :gitrdun: |
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If you have a resource with tips, I'm all ears/eyes. Ron has told me how to adjust corner weights before, but getting the ride height correct always proves to be a challenge to me... |
Hey Everyone! Two Quick Announcements 1. I'm outta here for 10 days. Going on my annual family vacation. This year we're in Yosemite with NO cell service! :) * So I won't be posting on here or answering questions until after I get back June 4th. 2. Ron Sutton Race Technology is having a huge sale. I call this one: The Boss is Gone on Vacation Sale ! We only hold a "SALE" twice a year. Once during the end of year Holidays ... and once RIGHT NOW - May 23 to June 1st * Dave Hanson & Susan Kinnicutt are Handling the Big Sale while I'm Gone. #1 - FREE SHIPPING on EVERYTHING in our Catalog during this sale ! Save $100's if not $1000+ #2 - Plus - Free 2018 Ron Sutton Workshop Ticket (Regular $349) with any purchase over $1500 #3 - RSRT Bonus Bucks to Spend on ANYTHING in our Catalog !!! (See each item for amount) See ALL the Sale Specials HERE. See Online Catalog HERE. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you need anything while I'm gone, contact ... Dave Hanson (Sales Manager) 844-722-3832 Ext 1 [email protected] Susan Kinnicutt (Office Manger) 844-722-3832 Ext 3 (Only while I'm gone) [email protected] |
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The static heights on the rear of TOW are never level. I presume there is some side to side variation in the sheetmetal as compared to the suspension points. So I do my best to get the front to the right heights, and Ron requested that I get the rear trailing arms level to the ground. I'll do that, and the fender heights will be what they will be.
From what I recall (it's been a year since I've done this), Ron told me how to adjust the coilovers at opposing corners to move weight around with really altering the height at each corner. That's what I have done before with reasonable results. Once I get all of the weight on the car, that is my plan... Next battle is getting alignment right such that the car will drive straight. ;) |
Just a note back on topic: After crawling all over a new Trans Am Camaro racer at Sonoma today, it is easy to see how this build, frame and everything, is quite similar--this is a compliment, as the chassis on the spec racer, according to the owner, was built by Howe. The Sutton version is just more exotic and probably a lot more fun (read: potentially way faster) to drive (when it's done). What's funny is that on a cost basis, the bespoke (for Greg or other people) Sutton version seems like a considerable bargain when put up against a spec Trans Am racer . . .
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A group from Lat G spent a few days at Performance Racing Industries show (PRI) in Indy last December..... of course I was in the throws of picking the few parts I get to on the ' 70.... and we spent considerable time looking at all the other chassis and car builders and their offerings....
Yeah ---- I'll take my RSRT car. |
It’s ok Greg. I remember trying to get some good BBQ and Brian hijacking the trip.:stirthepot::lmao:
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https://saltlickbbq.com/ |
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Oh Bryan ---- it's always the one little thing that a group of guys glom on to and won't let it go. It's almost like it becomes "the theme". LOL |
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Thanks for the kind comments. Greg Weld's Track Warrior will be quicker than a Trans Am 2 car, but not as quick as a Trans Am car. The chassis, downforce, suspension & overall grip would be equal to a TA car, but the 700hp is the limiting factor. Today's Trans Am cars are making north of 850hp. Greg wanted a tame LS7 ... and 700hp is the lowest power version of LS7 I offer. We have them up to 900hp, but as you can imagine, those engines come with a lot of maintenance requirements. Besides, this thing will be a beast with 700HP. --------------------------- I just returned from my 10 day vacation in Yosemite. I'll jump on here Monday & post some updates & some dyno sheets. :relax: |
I didn't grow up winning go kart races at 13..... I'm old..... I didn't start doing this crap until I bought Old Yeller..... and that was a mere 7 years ago. 700 HP is all I'm going to sneak up on right now. When I can drive this SOB to new track records..... then maybe I'll add some more gasoline to it.
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Everyone knows you need max hp right out of the gate to be fast. Quitter. :stirthepot: |
I was indeed referring to a TA 2 car--I know nothing about actual racing classes and whatnot. What I thought was cool about the the engine setup--basically an LS3--was that they were using an LS truck (bread box) intake, and they still had MAF running. Supposedly, it was limited to 500 horses, per series rules, but the cam chop seemed to indicate other possibilities. The truck intake and 15-inch wheels (1.25 inch-thick rotors) were interesting, but I have low standards . . .
Here's looking forward to more build updates. Quote:
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This dyno sheet is Greg's engine. It is our "Track Warrior 3 LS7".
http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...1&d=1528125184 You can see a detailed list of all the internal components in our catalog HERE. Three things should stand out ... 1. The build components are almost overkill for "only" 700hp. That's to increase longevity. 2. The ARE dry sump is simply the best dry sump & best protection for the engine in a car with high G's. 3. The power curve is relatively "linear" which makes these engines easier to drive fast. A few other notes: A. The "dead on" dyno at Scoggin-Dickey shows 707hp. It will make 8-11 more horsepower once we we change the oil from Driven BR break-in Oil to Driven LS oil. B. We did NOT dyno the engine with step headers. If we did the top end power would be the same, but the power band from 2500 to 6000 would show higher & even flatter. C. Greg's headers are the RSRT "tuned" Step Headers ... 1-3/4" to 1-7/8" to 2.0" and will have more power from 2500 to 6000 than the dyno curve shows & be even flatter. D. This same engine with the very basic, single stage GM OEM LS7 dry sump makes about 15 less HP. E. The happy window power curve on this particular Track-Warrior engine is 2500-7500rpm on track. Front end, hood & doors mount this week. Powertrain next week. Still on track to track test June 28th. :) :cheers: |
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I told him I heard it wasn't that good and the line is too long. |
Looks perfect to me!:)
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Continued from previous post ...
http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...6&d=1528135774 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...7&d=1528135799 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...8&d=1528135847 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...9&d=1528135862 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...0&d=1528135889 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...1&d=1528135904 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...2&d=1528135914 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...3&d=1528135957 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...4&d=1528136000 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...5&d=1528136018 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...6&d=1528136041 http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...7&d=1528136053 |
I need to go buy some adult diapers.......
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I’m available as soon as the 28th, shirt size is an XLT and as long as the hat is for an adult it’ll fit. Thank you for your consideration. :action-smiley-027: |
Poor Basher.........
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Who were you trying to marry? If you're in for Greg & offer Gwen something of value ... anything of value ... you may be able to work out a deal. Just sayin' |
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Track Warrior
Once you set the tire in place the view from the back
makes it perfect... I guess that is what most people will be seeing on the track:) Bob |
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:lol: My dearest Greg, I’m thinking a brown race suit may be your best bet for the new car. Xoxo Dan 🙃 |
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Too late --- she's already been gone a week. Seems one of the guys at the construction project down the street had some Snap-On tools a relative left him. So far I've tried the 9/16" box end and it seems to work real well ---- so maybe I got a pretty good deal. |
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