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Hey! alu-alu or carbon-carbon, hell even carbon-alu can bond together so strongly that the carbon epoxy could splinter or the alu could bend before the bonded joint fails! Pretty impressive stuff!

Honda F1 trans case and control arms with titanium suspension bosses. :thumbsup:

http://hooniverse.com/wp-content/gal...f1-private.jpg

I like Marks mirrors better. :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 456973)

I like Marks mirrors better. :D

Me too :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 456973)

I like Marks mirrors better. :D

:thumbsup: As do I, but in the spirit of engineering within Mark's builds F1 technology does trickle down. Their engineering use to be a dream, now it's obtainable. :yes:

You should consider sponsoring him so we could see what numbers he could post with a 2,500 lb. Gen 1. :rofl:

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 456965)

Bryan -

Engineers don't "glue" things ---- they BOND stuff together.

:lol: :lol:

I used 3M Panel Bonding adhesive. Great stuff easy to use and a long working time. I needed to fill some gaps so it is also fairly thick.
I’m just working on little stuff while the car is at Sled Alley. It all takes time and if I can get some of the small sub-system parts done the assembly will go much faster.

I had a very good friend tell me, if you get one thing done everyday on your project you will finish your car . If it is just ordering a small part it is forward progress. You eat an elephant one bite at a time…..

Mark

Mark,

Any more work on your oil tanks and dry sump system. I would love to see how you package everything and see how you are going to make the oil fill and dip stick. Amazing work as usual! It is an art form to see how you engineer a car instead of "just building it". Thanks for sharing some of your knowledge.:thumbsup:

Slick vs Stielow

The difference between "slick" and "Stielow"...

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/v.../CFMirrors.jpg

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/v...ngerMirror.jpg

I had my stock mirrors dipped in hydro CF for a similar look... but not nearly as sexy as the real deal! :thumbsup:

Some project updates:

Mark modifies the passenger side of the subframe cross member to provide clearance for the AC compressor.
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8190844c.jpg

This requires rebuilding the engine mount pad and provides an good opportunity to improve vehicle refinement.
4th gen F-car OE engine mounts are being incorporated to reduce the noise and vibration over the aftermarket poly offerings.
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/...ps633c533b.jpg

I know it was mentioned somewhere in red devils thread, but what acc drive do you use Mark?
I like the ac compressor tucked underneath as well.
Nice work on the fire wall and oil tank guys. :bow:

with the rear end lowered to a nice tucked stance were you ever concerned about hittting the bump stops? Im very very close on my 67 quadralink

Quote:

Originally Posted by formula88 (Post 457772)

I like the idea of utilizing a factory mount for less harmonic transfer into the chassis. That's one of the things I had thought of after building mine.:thumbsup:

I have always planned on using modified rubber mounts to reduce vibration and engine noise into the interior of the car,

good idea!!

Hey Mark was curious which AC bracket you use to mount the V/A compressor and still work with the GM ls9 front drive?

Quote:

Originally Posted by NvrDun71 (Post 458756)

Hey Mark was curious which AC bracket you use to mount the V/A compressor and still work with the GM ls9 front drive?

The Concept One LS9 set up works great!

http://www.lsxtv.com/news/ls9-powere...ley-treatment/

Mark

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stielow (Post 458894)

The Concept One LS9 set up works great!

http://www.lsxtv.com/news/ls9-powere...ley-treatment/

Mark

Thank you Sir, Looks like a nice setup! Appreciate you pushing the envelope and recruiting companies like this to step up on new products! :bow:

Mark,
Are you going to continue to run Abs on this one too?
Shane

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixnina (Post 459301)

Mark,
Are you going to continue to run Abs on this one too?
Shane

Yes I mounded the ABS module today so I plan on using it.

http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...psd1e268b1.jpg

Hello Mark,great work as always,I like the idea of moving the fuse box and harness coming thru the firewall and curios where your mounting it because I was wanting to do that to mine,thanks.

Please post a finished image of the subframe with the compressor and engine mount in place. Keep up the good work.

Best part is the true 'car guy' logo

One thing for certain, Mark's builds never get a chance to rust. :thumbsup:

Rolling stand question

reading your book again and in a caption you mention that dse was selling rolling stands for the body. I gave them a call and I think they thought I was nuts?... Was it a different vendor that provided the body dolly with rollers?

Thanks

yeah, I think he likes to do that to people. With his suggestion, I called the GM engineering division manager looking for "talent in a can" and he told me to go pound salt. :lol:

j/k, I think he might have been referencing that they had them.

Easy to make, cheap too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stielow (Post 459336)

Yes I mounded the ABS module today so I plan on using it.
http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...psd1e268b1.jpg

I can't wait to find out how you calibrated this set-up!

Quote:

Originally Posted by tubbed69 (Post 459362)

Hello Mark,great work as always,I like the idea of moving the fuse box and harness coming thru the firewall and curios where your mounting it because I was wanting to do that to mine,thanks.

I am not sure on Mark's plans to relocate the fuse box and harness, but back in 1987. My fuse box/bulkhead was corroded, but there was no rewiring kits or factory fuse boxes available. So, Ron Francis had developed a street Rod fuse box. I rewired my car and relocated the fuse box to the glove box.

Now you have plenty of companies that sell kits, so you can relocate the fuse box to other locations on the car. I believe Twister had it relocated in the trunk, with AAW kit. I chose the ISIS system, which gives me more flexibility on the wiring of my car. Your fuse box location should be based on your car and it should be easily accessible to you.

Jeff

thanks,I seen where the firewall was welded up and I have the AAW kit and may move it,thanks again for your help

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stielow (Post 455524)

The Mule had a oil to water oil cooler built into the end tank of a Griffin rad. It held the oil temp down to under 250F for 3-5 laps. The turbos drive a lot of heat into the oil. One issue I have found is some of the older gauges don’t read high enough for synthetic oils. Redline has told me there engine oils are good to 325F. The Mule gauge pegged at 250F so we were shutting off early. Jackass has a relatively stock LS9 in it and it has no cooling issues on track with its Ron Davis rad with an oil to water oil cooler built into it. Red Devil runs a stock LS9 oil to water oil cooler mounted to the side of the engine. Once we had that car fully tuned up it would over temp the oil and the water in 5 laps on a 90 degree day. On Mayhem I upped the rad and moved the trans and diff coolers to the back of the car. In a 5 lap session the water temp was great and the oil temp is getting marginal. That oil cooler is built into the rad as a oil to water cooler.

On Camaro XV we upper the rad size even more with a custom core from Dewitt. I met with C&R rad at SEMA and they steered me to a larger 13 plate oil to water oil cooler that should keep my oil temp good. I have opened up the front of the car with the new Anvil front clip. I’m using my vented hood again to help move air through the rad. Dewitt is also making me a one off intercooler heat exchanger that will nest into the cooling stack to maximize core face and air flow. On Red Devil, Mayhem and Camaro XV I’ve ran a very large powerful cooling fan. It is a 20 inch dia Caddy SRX Turbo fan what pulls 850W. I like oil to water coolers because it heat the oil then cools the oil. It also makes a very clean installation. Dewitt is finishing the cooling stack next week and I hope to have some photos to post.

On a side note the LS9 based engines have oil squirters that shoot oil on the bottom of the piston to cool the pistons. Thomson modifies the LS7 block to add the piston squirters. He did a lot of testing to sort out the size and the location of these squirters. This does drive oil temp. Also as the power goes up so do the heat rejection requirements.

On your question on oil line sizes. I’ve been running -10 AN for cooling lines. I have run 12 AN but the 10 AN seems fine. I don’t have the sizes of all of the different coolers, sometimes it is hard to get the heat rejection rates or to know what you need without just testing it.

Hope that helps

Mark

Have you considered making a portion of the radiator into an air to air oil cooler? The reasoning is that on some of the endurance race engines I produced used only half the original radiator area for coolant and the same amount of area as an oil cooler. What we found is that we were still able to keep cylinder head temps under control while dramatically increasing engine life and reliability while allowing for tighter ring side clearance and using narrower rings with no loss in reliability. Valvesprings that would fail after 3-4 races would last all season with oil temps at 180-190° instead of 250-260°, and they would only get freshened up because the engine got torn down in the off season. We no longer had problems with rocker shaft or pin seizures, or hydrodynamic issues running a considerably lighter oil.
The original thinking on my part was that synthetic oil was good to X° so as long as it stayed below that....... That was wrong thinking. Turns out that when it comes to metallurgical strength of piston and valvespring materials, cooler is way better. Keep in mind that 5w20 at 190° has the same viscosity as 15w50 at 270° and the protection is not better with heavier oil when it comes to the EP package. I know that you have enough of a grasp on tribology to deduce all the other advantages. The same held true for differentials and transmissions....... less/lighter oil always equaled more power and lower temps improved durability. I found that 180° was sufficient for moisture evaporation in the crankcase, and 140-ish was awesome for clutch plate life in auto trans and clutch posi units. Just some food for thought

It wouldn't work anywhere but a road course Kenny. Idling around in traffic on a hot day is a challenge as well.

I also like the oil to water heat exhchanger for the reasons Mark stated. I found that it didn't work well with my car at only 660 hp. (Big Block) The air to oil cooler made a big difference over the water to oil exchanger.

Mark, what about a large air cooler with a removable shroud or plumbed with ducting and a servo motor?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegas69 (Post 460220)

We kind of found the opposite to be true. I was putting out quite a bit more power per cu/in NA than this build with a blower, and the air to oil worked best. The thing about using a thinner oil at reduced temps meant it did not have to be heated by the engine because of the flow rates at lower temps. Our 5w20 oil lasted much longer at lower temps without breaking down, than hotter 20/50 race oil. Keep in mind that the coolant basically keeps combustion temps under control and cools the oil by cooling surfaces that the oil contacts. Virtually all the cooling of critical parts is done through the oil, which makes the coolant a middle man of sorts.... just using a fairly small portion of the radiator area for the cooler. We kept our head temps at about 230° for best power and the ability to keep it stabilized. The cooler oil greatly reduced cooling system load..... I guess I am kind of pushing this idea because oil temps are so critical to component life.... I'll stop it now:D
http://image.circletrack.com/f/17296...e_radiator.jpg

Okay.....now......:lol:

That isn't half and half but I can see that working great except in cold weather. :thumbsup:

Were you cooling the high pressure oil coming out of the pump or after it came out of the engine on its way back to the tank ?

Is there a preference ? Does it make a difference ?

I run a oil/water cooler on the pressure side before it goes into the engine. I like this because as you mentioned it also warms up the oil which is good for a street based car, but I was thinking of adding additional cooling capacity via an air to air. But packaging means I would like to put it on the low pressure side. Thoughts ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by SIXX (Post 453072)

Camaro XV sounds like the perfect project name..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Regal454 (Post 453081)

Looking forward to "Quince":thumbsup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Regal454 (Post 453084)

quince=15 in Spanish

I dunno. I saw the thread title and though that XV Motorsports was getting into Camaro parts.

http://www.xvmotorsports.com/

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegas69 (Post 460266)

That isn't half and half but I can see that working great except in cold weather. :thumbsup:

That isn't actually what we used, but I saw it and thought it would be more along the lines of a streeter.
You just have to trust that the thinner unheated oil works better in cold temps than trying to heat thicker oil..... I promise. There would be nothing wrong with a pan heater though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by preston (Post 460298)

It really didn't matter as long as we passed sufficient volume to avoid starving the suction side. It really doesn not take long to heat a 0 or 10w oil. I guess if you are cruising in sub zero temps..... We also found power with a particular brand of dino oil over every synthetic we tested. It was the "fake" synthetic, if you will, the "superclean" crude that many companies pass off as synthetic.:thumbsup:

By the way..... you guys do know they make a thermostatically controlled bypass, right?

Where are the updates? Its been 10 days, we need a fix.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kenny (Post 460229)

I completely agree with this statement. Back in my Honda days I swore up and down that everyone that was running a turbo needed to install an oil cooler even if it was small. 9.5:1 and 8-10 lbs of boost on a Honda got things hot quick.

I do have a question on that though. How do you control the temp if it gets to cool? Is there a sort of thermostat you are using or are you just letting the coolant take care of that?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kenny (Post 460338)

By the way..... you guys do know they make a thermostatically controlled bypass, right?

Kenny already mentioned it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by next69 (Post 462393)

Where are the updates? Its been 10 days, we need a fix.

I had Dewitt’s radiator custom make me a radiator core and intercooler core. The cores nest together to make an efficient package. The assembled the cores with tanks and mounted them togther. I had it made 23 inch tall and 24 inched wide to fit a Cadillac SRX turbo fan and shroud. After a long conversation with C&R they supplied a 10 kW oil cooler for the end tank. Dewitt also built in the power steering and transmission coolers. It maybe a bit overkill but I want to get the temps under control on the new car.

http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...psded7cfa0.jpg

The top two coolers are power steering and transmission. The lower cooler is the engine oil cooler. Using oil to water coolers it will help heat and cool the oil.

http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps7ba89dea.jpg

I plan on mounting it as an assembly on Duramax Diesel radiator mounts. This thing is off setting some of my mass savings.

Dewitt did a killer job of building this deal. Having the ability to custom make everything makes a very nice package.

Mark

Doesn't matter how light it is if it's over-heated and parked. Nice bit of creative engineering. :thumbsup:

Would love to see what the coolers inside the radiator look like.