I see lots of them available in phenolic as well, but this one is listed as wood. Wasn't my first choice, but finding a 3/4" tall spacer is hard... Here is how it's described:

Carb Spacer , wood
Square-bore, 3/4" thick
Open
Single Bolt Pattern

I'll likely pull it back apart and open up the corner radii sometime soon, so I'll see if it has soaked up any fluid. I would hope not with the injectors down in the ports, but I do get some reversion into the intake...

My carb spacer is boring plastic. :action-smiley-027: Pretty rare discussion around here in the land of LS EFI engines I guess. :)

Engine bay looks great man. That shaker really does look killer. Glad you found the work around.

And those new dyno numbers are impressive. You've really brought this car a long way and continue to improve it. Helps immensely to team up with the right shop/builder eh?

:cheers:

Nice additions Bryan!!! See ya in January when we come down for Adrienne's graduation.

Watched the Texas episode of USCA again last night, was nice seeing TOW get some TV time along with others on here as well.

Nice job on the upgrades, love the new dyno numbers.

Me too, great seeing you out there run it. IIRC, i saw four Lat-g cars out there, yours, Jay and Amy's 2nd gen bird, Steves?, the 77 or 78, cant remember his name (sorry) but its the one who ran 1/4 mile and now doing this type of competition.....

Sorry for the jack Bryan. Also, please make sure what ever that wood spacer is coated with DOES NOT break down (the coating, over time, remember wood is an organic material) umm, wood saturated with fuels would be ummm, lets just not say it!!!!!

Mike

Thanx guys. Perhaps I'll go on the hunt again for a different spacer, but when I looked for a 3/4" option, this is what I found. I could mill down a 1" spacer I imagine, but I didn't really want to go that path.

With a few hundred miles and dyno sessions on it, I'll be able to tell if it's soaking up fluids by pulling the TB off. I need to adjust on the idle set screw anyway, so once I have the shaker off, pulled the TB is easy.

I'm really happy with how the valve covers cleaned up under the hood too! It's a lot of work at times to get those final details, and this was one that took me time to get to. I'm glad I did!

As for having the right shop, this car would be nothing compared to what it is if it weren't for Eric. He's done some amazing work for me!

Weld, let me know when you will be in town. I'm traveling the first 2 weekends of January, but I should be in town the rest of the month... Too bad you won't be here in February or you could join me for this:

MVP Track Time

I just signed up for the 3-day weekend. I hope TOW and I both survive it, that will be my first time on COTA. I can't wait!

I didn't want to call Glassman out on his Fuel saturation issue -- but now I have to..... Your system is a dry system with injectors that shoot fuel directly at the intact valve -- which is FAR below the spacer and throttle body which remain high and dry.

A wet injection system would act like a carb - with the injectors in the throttle body mixing with air up top - which might wet down the spacer - but even then - doubtful. Fuel evaporates - and there's also a ton of air flowing...


Anyway - good fix.

Greg,

In theory I completely agree with you. But I think there may be some factors at play here that muddy that theory a bit.

When I pulled the throttle body to change the plenum, the edges of the gaskets which are exposed to the plenum were damp. The plenum itself was also damp. I can't completely explain it, but one theory is that the fuel injectors are spraying on the back of the closed valve during at least a portion of the spray (depending on the particular duty cycle). That fuel hits the valve and generally atomizes. But I think that also may allow some of the vapor back into the plenum when other cylinder intake valves are open.

I've been reading threads as I can find them about one of the Holley HP EFI options which allows you to adjust the timing point when the injectors is turned off. There are theories about when to do this for either best emissions or best performance. We actually played with it a little on the dyno to see it is made any HP differences, and in reality, it didn't seem to. So I want to try and time it to finish right before the valve is opening to allow the vapor to be pulled into the cylinder right after being sprayed. My thinking being that it would reduce the ability for it to get back into the intake.

Anyway, that's a long winded reply to say that in theory, I agree with you. But I did see some 'wet' in my plenum, so I will pull it back down and keep an eye on it to make sure I don't have any problems........

On a different topic, what's up with all of the toys being up for sale? Just noticed that in the sig...

I hate cars and am getting completely out of them.




LOL



You'd have to read the last few posts in my '40 Ford projects thread.



This "thread" might help shed some light on fuel injector and valve timing:




http://www.motec.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=769

There were several of us on the Texas Show in addition to Amy and Bryan! GarbberGT- with the Blue Maverick, SilverC10 - with the Burgandy 79 Camaro, myself in the Gold 78 TA, I also see Terry Fair on here every once in a while.